DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread

Discussion in 'DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions' started by wje, Aug 10, 2013.
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  1. Paladin79
    At two mm in with then the 1/8 inch or 4 mm heat shrink should be fine, I was playing it safe by saying 3/16 or 5 mm. Just use standard 2-1 shrink ration non adhesive heat shrink tubing and you should be fine.
  2. Pilotdog68
    Remember my HD600 cable made from Canare 4S6 and covered in Plastidip? Well I had some 4S6 left over so I made a cable for my HD700. This time I used 1/4" Polypropylene rope for the lower sheathing, then black paracord above the y-split. Amphenol 3.5mm and generic 2.5mm HD700 connectors.

    That one turned out so nice, it made me regret doing Plastidip on the HD600 cable. So I stripped off all the Plastidip and started threading on the paracord. The only "Y-split" on this one is right out of the 3.5mm Rean jack. It splits into two separate paracord cables there, but then I re-twisted them back to their original star-quad shape. They hold the shape very well even with the paracord in the mix. I just untwist the top 8" or so before plugging them into the Senns, but the length of the "split" can be adjusted shorter or longer whenever I want to.


    They're both ~4ft cables.
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2017
    Allanmarcus likes this.
  3. Jasolt
    If I want to make a cable that is arround 1.5m and is 3 pole, how much acctual wire do I need? (buying from forza audiowork if it matters).
  4. Allanmarcus
    3 pole on both ends, or 3 pole on one end and plots to connect to each cup?

    If 3 poles on each end, the 1.5 x 3 = 4.5m, unless you want 1.5M of wire, not including the plugs. In any event, assuming 3 pole on both ends, just get 5M of wire. This assumes you are getting 1 connector wire.

    So many questions.
  5. Jasolt
    Yes, I do want a 3.5mm 3 pole to 3.5mm to 3 pole, 1 for each side, so you would recommend 5m instead of 4.5m, why is that?
  6. Feilong4
    Sorry, this is probably not the thread to ask, but does anyone so happen to know which wire goes where on this DT770 Pro 80 ohm driver? By the 2 solder joints above the 2 below are done by me.


    I've asked a few places and even emailed Beyerdynamic, but still no answer.
  7. Allanmarcus
    well, first off you want a little extra for screw ups. you might be striping a wire and accidental cut it. Second, some of the wire goes into the plugs, si if you want 1.5M of actual wire, you have to account for the wire in the plugs.
  8. Paladin79
    There is usually a red mark on the Beyer drivers I have worked with but I do not see it in your photo. The way I have hooked them up in the past is red to positive, then I check for the other connection using an ohmmeter. While impedance and resistance are not the same thing, if you have a 32 ohm impedance etc. it will read fairly close to that on an ohmmeter, that tells you that you have the proper two connections. On photos I have seen the red dot is to the left of the solder pads so I would figure the hot being there and the opposite side being ground. If those drivers are 80 ohm, then that is what you should read across the proper two solder points. Another way to tell would be to place a signal across two points and check for sound, the headphone output of a phone or high res player for instance with the end of a wire stripped so you could get left or right channel and ground. Personally I run two separate inputs to those drivers but originally they may have been a one cable set up. If you are trying to do that, let me know and I will try to help you further. You will in a sense be making a DIY cable to each driver so personally I do not think this question is out of place. There are three connections on such drivers but only two are needed per side.

    Last edited: Sep 12, 2017
  9. Paladin79
    I have not seen it mentioned whether you are braiding the wires. If so figure and extra 20-30% because the wire length shortens as you braid. If you are running three wires in a jacket then Allan's answer makes sense
  10. Oscar-HiFi
    He has a blue mark on the right hand side of the driver, the colour is actually the impedance :)

    But the side the mark is on is the Live side, the other is the Negative.

    Blue = 80 Ohm
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2017
    Paladin79 likes this.
  11. Paladin79
    I was making an uneducated guess lol, on some I worked with the mark was also on the side of one of the terminals I ended up using. So red is 250 ohm, I stand corrected.
    Oscar-HiFi likes this.
  12. Paladin79
    Glad to hear the mark is on the live side, it worked out that way for me and I went into this rather blindly. Basically I used Beyer drivers in another brand of headphones and had to figure things out for myself. The only info I got when I received the drivers was "you know you are going to void the warranty on these."
    Thanks for taking the time to educate me on the color code Oscar. There is a third connection there that I consider a pass through. As you wire one side with a three wire cable, I would think all three get connected then you run the second channel and ground to the other cup if doing a single cable entry. I did dual on mine.
    ostewart likes this.
  13. kwatch
    I removed the jacket and shield of Canare L-4E6S Star-Quad. Using only the 4 conductors, it was sleeved in #550 paracord.

    Last edited: Sep 12, 2017
  14. Jasolt
    I really don't know what you mean by "braiding" and "jacket", but I'm looking to weave the cables, like most expensive custom cables. Also, where should I get the stuff from, wanting from 1 european place only, and how could I "remember" which cable is right, ground and left, seeing that they aren't color coded.
  15. Muinarc
    By braiding he meant "weaving" as you put it, and you do lose about 25-30% of your starting wire length by weaving it. To know which wire is which, when you're all done you can solve it with a continuity test with a cheap voltmeter. You could also use nail polish of different colors to paint the ends before you start, or use colored or labeled tape.
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