DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:10 PM Post #3,436 of 10,535
550 will be pretty baggy on a single 26 awg wire. Some people like the look and feel while others, like myself, strongly dislike it.

You'll never know until you try for yourself. Type 95 will work well, IMO. There is some technique needed, but it's not hard to pick up.

I don't really want a baggy look. Do you know how 275 paracord would look compared to 95? I have almost everything planned out for my cable, but I'm stuck on the paracord/colors
L3000.gif

 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:14 PM Post #3,437 of 10,535
I don't really want a baggy look. Do you know how 275 paracord would look compared to 95? I have almost everything planned out for my cable, but I'm stuck on the paracord/colors:L3000:


I haven't used 275 yet, sorry. Lots of us use type 95. Is there a reason you think your wire will be too big?
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:24 PM Post #3,439 of 10,535
  I don't really want a baggy look. Do you know how 275 paracord would look compared to 95? I have almost everything planned out for my cable, but I'm stuck on the paracord/colors
L3000.gif
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the 275 is just a bit thicker than the 95
and a bit easier to pull cable through
and not too baggy with 26 awg imho
its pretty inexpensive from paracord planet
i would get some and try it out
i've said this before starting out you really need to buy a variety
of components  and decide whats right for you
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:26 PM Post #3,440 of 10,535
Well, in complete honesty, I've never done this before, and I'm just trying to make sure it's done correctly. 


95 will work. You'll need to make sure no wire is sticking out of the insulation before sleeving as it will catch on the inside.
You'll also need to learn to worm it through a few inches at a time. When you get the technique down, it goes fast.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:28 PM Post #3,442 of 10,535
 
   
 
 
I did Canare star quad, which was 26 AWG.  I used type 95 paracord.  You gotta do the "inchworm" method.  Took me about 10-15min (it got quicker as I got better) for each 6 foot strand.

Was type 95 too small? I'm concerned that 550 might be too big. 

 
275 is best one for 26AWG, some of best in Verse use 275 http://www.bestintheversecables.com/
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:31 PM Post #3,443 of 10,535
  What is that cylinder in the middle of the wire? Also does heatshrinking it redistribute force? I need some way to join the soldered connections so that I can tug basically as hard as I want on either end of the connection and it won't separate. 

that is an unused barrel from a right angle neutrik connector
i shorten them so i have these left over
any short piece of tubing will work
the adhesive heat shrink redistributes all kinds of force
you can't pull this apart
i keep some 3/8" 3:1 dual wall adhesive shrink tubing around
its great stuff i got 4 feet for about 7 bucks from the ebay
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 12:31 PM Post #3,444 of 10,535
   
275 is best one for 26AWG, some of best in Verse use 275 http://www.bestintheversecables.com/

 
Damn, that is come CLEAN braiding!  I need to figure out how to get my technique that good.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 2:33 PM Post #3,445 of 10,535
Feb 24, 2015 at 3:41 PM Post #3,446 of 10,535
Is the barrel necessary? Like if I just go find some adhesive heatshrink, solder the connections together, then shrink the tube over it, there is no chance it will pull apart? Or is there something I am missing? I'm doing this for someone else so I can't have it to be too MacGyvered.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 3:55 PM Post #3,447 of 10,535
Is the barrel necessary? Like if I just go find some adhesive heatshrink, solder the connections together, then shrink the tube over it, there is no chance it will pull apart? Or is there something I am missing? I'm doing this for someone else so I can't have it to be too MacGyvered.


The barrel isn't necessary. It's simply a preference to hide the joining of parts. Heatshrink alone will reveal unevenness and separations once it is shrunk. The barrel is just for concealment and/or style. You could use anything really, like a piece of cut straw.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 4:10 PM Post #3,448 of 10,535
And so cheap, too! DANG.


Well yeah, Canare and paracord. Materials don't get any cheaper than those.
Let's break it down for fun.
$6 worth of cable and paracord for a 6 foot cable. Viable splitter and 1/4" are $30. Mini XLR $3 together. Heatshrink, solder, misc maybe $1-2 worth. These are all non-bulk prices. We'll say $41 total, selling for $90 with those options.

Maybe three hour build time. So earning about $16 hour. It's reasonable when you compare to others.

Still, switch to neutrik connections with no splitter and you can make the same thing yourself for $13. Love me some DIY.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 4:17 PM Post #3,449 of 10,535
What do most people use as a wire sheath? I saw a DIY and the guy used Kevlar Shoelaces like these http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Kevlar-Retardant-Metal-Tip-Laces/dp/B00GNQONCG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424812573&sr=8-3&keywords=kevlar+shoelaces
 
Or something like this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRY0F7C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1V53SJYZX416WZW8GGP2&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 4:25 PM Post #3,450 of 10,535
ZSamuels28

Paracord, PET techflex, or nylon multifilament sleeving.

Paracordplanet.com, supply captain.

The nylon sleeving like this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BRAIDED-NYLON-SLEEVING-audio-TECHFLEX-25-ft-/360217197985

Depends on what you want to do and personal preference.
 

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