DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Feb 25, 2015 at 1:50 AM Post #3,467 of 10,535
Epoxy to what though is the question. I have a soldered connection, I have epoxy, I have nothing to put brace the wires to with epoxy to redistribute force.


Post a picture. It'll make it easier to see where you're at currently.
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 4:19 PM Post #3,469 of 10,535
Post a picture. It'll make it easier to see where you're at currently.

http://i.imgur.com/uMJRar3.jpg
 
Two wires to the left cup two wires to the right cup and the full size cable to the jack. I'm going to solder them together but If I do that without any way to brace them the junction will tear apart. 
 
PS: Is there a braiding guide around here somewhere? I used a drill to twist the wires into a vice, but it is a ****ty braid. 
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 4:36 PM Post #3,470 of 10,535
One more question, is it really hard to fully recable a M50?
Also does this techflex at 1/16" work for individually sleeving starquad? I like a tight look. Paracord at 2mm is a pain in my ass
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3m-Length-Black-Techflex-Flexo-PET-Expandable-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-/230927952950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&var=&hash=item35c460ec36
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 4:56 PM Post #3,471 of 10,535
  One more question, is it really hard to fully recable a M50?
Also does this techflex at 1/16" work for individually sleeving starquad? I like a tight look. Paracord at 2mm is a pain in my ass
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3m-Length-Black-Techflex-Flexo-PET-Expandable-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-/230927952950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&var=&hash=item35c460ec36

I would think this would be fairly easy, I did a detachable mod for my Beyerdynamic DT770's and I can't imagine it's any harder than recabling that. Just some simple soldering required. 1/16" seems quite a squeeze although if you buy the techflex expandable like you are looking at I would think that would be fine. I'm going to recable from the right driver to the left and use 1/8" nylon multifillament which doesn't expand.
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 6:17 PM Post #3,473 of 10,535
http://i.imgur.com/uMJRar3.jpg

Two wires to the left cup two wires to the right cup and the full size cable to the jack. I'm going to solder them together but If I do that without any way to brace them the junction will tear apart. 

PS: Is there a braiding guide around here somewhere? I used a drill to twist the wires into a vice, but it is a ****ty braid. 


Solder is pretty darn solid if you make a good joint. Is there some reason significant force will be applied to the cable? That seems like the real issue.

Anyway, you join the wires by twisting them together and soldering. Cover each joint with a small piece heatshrink. Use some Epoxy putty on the whole area. You can shape it how you like with the putty kind. Let it cure, then cover that with an adhesive heatshrink.

If someone manages to pull that apart, then they are doing something horribly wrong to the cable.
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 6:55 PM Post #3,474 of 10,535
Solder is pretty darn solid if you make a good joint. Is there some reason significant force will be applied to the cable? That seems like the real issue.

Anyway, you join the wires by twisting them together and soldering. Cover each joint with a small piece heatshrink. Use some Epoxy putty on the whole area. You can shape it how you like with the putty kind. Let it cure, then cover that with an adhesive heatshrink.

If someone manages to pull that apart, then they are doing something horribly wrong to the cable.

I'm trying to think of a way to do it without adhesive heatshrink because I'm being paid $20 to do this, I'm already using like $9 in supplies, and I've put like 4 hours into getting them going, so it's not even remotely worth it as it is, and the cheapest heatshrink is about $5 which is just excessive. I think maybe if I just epoxy the area and use regular heatshrink it will be fine but idk. Also the reason I'm concerned about force distro is not because there that likely to be someone pulling it apart but just because it's stupid design to make it in a way so that if you were to tug on it the force would go to the solder joints, the force should always be going to the sections of cable on either end of the solder joints. Next time I do this I'm going to make sure I do it the right way lol.
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 7:21 PM Post #3,475 of 10,535
I'm trying to think of a way to do it without adhesive heatshrink because I'm being paid $20 to do this, I'm already using like $9 in supplies, and I've put like 4 hours into getting them going, so it's not even remotely worth it as it is, and the cheapest heatshrink is about $5 which is just excessive. I think maybe if I just epoxy the area and use regular heatshrink it will be fine but idk. Also the reason I'm concerned about force distro is not because there that likely to be someone pulling it apart but just because it's stupid design to make it in a way so that if you were to tug on it the force would go to the solder joints, the force should always be going to the sections of cable on either end of the solder joints. Next time I do this I'm going to make sure I do it the right way lol.


Regular heatshrink is just fine with epoxy. Adhesive heatshrink isn't all that strong. Epoxy is like a rock man. That'll be more then enough. A good solder joint would be sufficient, but epoxy will make it as strong as it'll get. The wire will be more likely to give somewhere else compared to the solder + epoxy joint.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 2:04 AM Post #3,476 of 10,535
Please, I just got my se215 iems and I definitely need new cables, the stock is super sticky and I don't like it really...
I didn't find about making iems cable, I just see about full sized cans cables...

Can someone guide me in the right direction :/
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 2:17 AM Post #3,477 of 10,535
You can just use thin guage wire, and the Shures use standard connectors available from many vendors IIRC. Or I'm sure eBay or somebody has a full cable for cheap.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 2:51 AM Post #3,478 of 10,535
Please, I just got my se215 iems and I definitely need new cables, the stock is super sticky and I don't like it really...
I didn't find about making iems cable, I just see about full sized cans cables...

Can someone guide me in the right direction :/

 
You can pick up the the MMCX connectors fairly cheap from Norne audio if you don't want to wait for shipping from China. 
As far as wire goes, you can either pick up a prefab cable without termination from somewhere like Lunashops or Ebay. 
Alternatively, you can find some really light/thin litz copper that fits the bill pretty well from here 
Another option is to just use something that is flexible with soft insulation. I highly recommend Plussound audio's 28awg SPC. I made a cable for my JVC FX850 and it's fantastic. 
It's my go-to wire when I want something that checks all my boxes and has a nice, soft feel. 
 
Finally, you could just buy a stock cable from another IEM. I personally like the stock JVC FX850 cable. I think it's pretty screwing fantastic. Lots of other premade mmcx cables out there. Aliexpress, Lunashops, Ebay, etc all have plenty of options. 
 
It all really comes down to your personal preferences and what you're exact wants/needs are. 
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 3:29 AM Post #3,479 of 10,535
   
You can pick up the the MMCX connectors fairly cheap from Norne audio if you don't want to wait for shipping from China. 
As far as wire goes, you can either pick up a prefab cable without termination from somewhere like Lunashops or Ebay. 
Alternatively, you can find some really light/thin litz copper that fits the bill pretty well from here 
 

i've been testing a cable made from the silk wrapped litz from that site on one of my grados for a couple weeks
its holding up well no silk coming off, it may fit the bill quite well its very flexible and soft to the touch
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 4:08 AM Post #3,480 of 10,535
You can pick up the the MMCX connectors fairly cheap from Norne audio if you don't want to wait for shipping from China. 
As far as wire goes, you can either pick up a prefab cable without termination from somewhere like Lunashops or Ebay. 
Alternatively, you can find some really light/thin litz copper that fits the bill pretty well from here 
Another option is to just use something that is flexible with soft insulation. I highly recommend Plussound audio's 28awg SPC. I made a cable for my JVC FX850 and it's fantastic. 
It's my go-to wire when I want something that checks all my boxes and has a nice, soft feel. 

Finally, you could just buy a stock cable from another IEM. I personally like the stock JVC FX850 cable. I think it's pretty screwing fantastic. Lots of other premade mmcx cables out there. Aliexpress, Lunashops, Ebay, etc all have plenty of options. 

It all really comes down to your personal preferences and what you're exact wants/needs are. 


Thanks a lot!

I saw some pre-mades in lunashop but didn't know if they are reliable...

I will take a look and compare, if it is worth buy all the things to make my own cable...

i've been testing a cable made from the silk wrapped litz from that site on one of my grados for a couple weeks
its holding up well no silk coming off, it may fit the bill quite well its very flexible and soft to the touch


Thanks for your answer too, I will take a look :D
 

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