[Kamakahah]

I am sorry if this question has been answered already on this thread as I am working my way through the pages, but what is a good gauge for the headphone cable? I am building Audeze LCD-3 balanced cable?

I saw numbers ranging from 18AWG all the way up to 24AWG? I assume smaller gauge will be easier to handle as long as it's big enough for the signal?

Anything 24-28awg is pretty standard and will work just fine. Be more concerned with its insulation and strand count. Those will affect your experience directly through weight, flexibility and durability.

musicinmymind I'd recommend modding the connector. Think about cutting off the wire guide at the bottom to make room for your oversized cable. Honestly, I'd be most concerned with the stress that such a heavy, stiff cable is going to put on the jack in the headphone.
If you really want to go to a larger gauge, 18 would probably be the cutoff point I'd recommend. It will carry more than enough current to drive an HE6. It's not like you're making a 20+ foot cable.

 

[sfo1972]

Anything 24-28awg is pretty standard and will work just fine. Be more concerned with its insulation and strand count. Those will affect your experience directly through weight, flexibility and durability.

@musicinmymind I'd recommend modding the connector. Think about cutting off the wire guide at the bottom to make room for your oversized cable. Honestly, I'd be most concerned with the stress that such a heavy, stiff cable is going to put on the jack in the headphone.
If you really want to go to a larger gauge, 18 would probably be the cutoff point I'd recommend. It will carry more than enough current to drive an HE6. It's not like you're making a 20+ foot cable.

Thanks - Any recommendations for insulation and strand count based on your experience? I am aiming for a 10' cable with balanced a balanced connector (XLR).

 

[jodgey4]

For that length I'd personally do an 8 strand for four pin, 6 for three. With headphone cables, you really only care about the resistance of the cable, which can be cut in half with double the strands.

 

[sfo1972]

For that length I'd personally do an 8 strand for four pin, 6 for three. With headphone cables, you really only care about the resistance of the cable, which can be cut in half with double the strands.

Great - So for the Audeze LCD3s for the 4 pin mini-xlr I should use between 24 and 28AWG 8 strands copper (OCC). I know that the 4 pins need to be shorted on the headphone side, so I would need 2 cables from each mini-xlr going to the balanced connector on the AMP side. Does this sound right?
 
Thanks for the help.

 

[Kamakahah]

Thanks - Any recommendations for insulation and strand count based on your experience? I am aiming for a 10' cable with balanced a balanced connector (XLR).

By strand count I'm referring to the individual strands of copper that make up a single wire. When people say 4-strand or 8-strand cable they are referring to the number of wires or conductors used to make the cable. It can be confusing. Context is key.

For the strand count in the wire, I prefer a minimum of 19 strands. 40 or more is preferable but ultimately leads to more expensive wire. You'll find plenty of cheap "OCC 7N blah blah blah" wire out there. The reason it's cheaper than other wire with similar specifications is due to the low strand count, usually 7 strands or solid core.
It's expensive to make wire with high strand count. You can Google why. Also, just know that it provides better flexibility and overall longevity to the cable. Those wires usually have harder insulation. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it means it loses some flexibility.

If you want an 8-strand cable, (ie 8 wires), you'll need 2 wires for each terminal (R+, R-, L+, L-). At the Y-split they will separate into two, 4-strand braids. Each set of 4 wires going to either the right or left mini-xlr connector. Make sure to label your wires with numbered tape or something.
From there, 2 wires will be used for each pin: 2 for R+, 2 for R-, 2 for L+ and 2 for L-.

 

[sfo1972]

By strand count I'm referring to the individual strands of copper that make up a single wire. When people say 4-strand or 8-strand cable they are referring to the number of wires or conductors used to make the cable. It can be confusing. Context is key.

For the strand count in the wire, I prefer a minimum of 19 strands. 40 or more is preferable but ultimately leads to more expensive wire. You'll find plenty of cheap "OCC 7N blah blah blah" wire out there. The reason it's cheaper than other wire with similar specifications is due to the low strand count, usually 7 strands or solid core.
It's expensive to make wire with high strand count. You can Google why. Also, just know that it provides better flexibility and overall longevity to the cable. Those wires usually have harder insulation. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it means it loses some flexibility.

If you want an 8-strand cable, (ie 8 wires), you'll need 2 wires for each terminal (R+, R-, L+, L-). At the Y-split they will separate into two, 4-strand braids. Each set of 4 wires going to either the right or left mini-xlr connector. Make sure to label your wires with numbered tape or something.
From there, 2 wires will be used for each pin: 2 for R+, 2 for R-, 2 for L+ and 2 for L-.

Great info. this makes a lot of sense; now I can start my cable hunt, which seems to be a job in of itself.
 
In my case, I need 4 wires Y-Split into 2 x Wire braids. The Audezes, as far as my research showed, don't use all the 4 pins on the Mini-XLRs but rather only 2 of them.
 
I was also thinking of using techflex and heat shrink sleeves for the first cable, then attempt the braiding on the second cable.
 
Many thanks for this great info Kamakahah. 

 

[PETEREK]

Great info. this makes a lot of sense; now I can start my cable hunt, which seems to be a job in of itself.

In my case, I need 4 wires Y-Split into 2 x Wire braids. The Audezes, as far as my research showed, don't use all the 4 pins on the Mini-XLRs but rather only 2 of them.

I was also thinking of using techflex and heat shrink sleeves for the first cable, then attempt the braiding on the second cable.

Many thanks for this great info Kamakahah. 

Audeze does use all 4 pins. I'm not looking anywhere but I have made plenty of Audeze cables. 1+4 are the positive pins and 2+3 are negative pins. Audeze uses 2 pins per for signal and 2 for ground just in case one of the pins fails, there will still be a usable connection.

 

[sfo1972]

Audeze does use all 4 pins. I'm not looking anywhere but I have made plenty of Audeze cables. 1+4 are the positive pins and 2+3 are negative pins. Audeze uses 2 pins per for signal and 2 for ground just in case one of the pins fails, there will still be a usable connection.

Thanks cCasper. I stumbled across this link today:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/453116/audeze-lcd-2-orthos/11085#post_7423371
 
From reading that thread and looking at the wiring diagram, assuming the guys there are correct, it seems that Pins 1 & 4 are connected together internally so are 2 & 3. I assume that you are using all 4 wires on each mini-xlr as a measure of assurance/safety, is that correct?
 
I also checked the stock cable that came with my LCDs and found only 2 wires going to each channel: 2 to the right and 2 to the left.
 
Thanks for the help.

 

[musicinmymind]

 

I am sorry if this question has been answered already on this thread as I am working my way through the pages, but what is a good gauge for the headphone cable? I am building Audeze LCD-3 balanced cable?

I saw numbers ranging from 18AWG all the way up to 24AWG? I assume smaller gauge will be easier to handle as long as it's big enough for the signal?

Anything 24-28awg is pretty standard and will work just fine. Be more concerned with its insulation and strand count. Those will affect your experience directly through weight, flexibility and durability.

@musicinmymind I'd recommend modding the connector. Think about cutting off the wire guide at the bottom to make room for your oversized cable. Honestly, I'd be most concerned with the stress that such a heavy, stiff cable is going to put on the jack in the headphone.
If you really want to go to a larger gauge, 18 would probably be the cutoff point I'd recommend. It will carry more than enough current to drive an HE6. It's not like you're making a 20+ foot cable.

 
 

 

   
Thanks for pic's.....you are right size would be issue. If I am not able to squeeze the wires, then I will not use the bottom cap of SMC, after solder I will just use the head sink. As this would an temporary cable, it should not be an issue. 

 
I'm assuming your SMC connectors haven't arrived yet. The biggest challenge, aside from squeezing the wires, you must also make sure the signal wire touch the middle needle, without touching anywhere else. In the picture you can see a middle pin, that's the signal pole. Now that pole absolutely cannot touch anywhere else of the connector, especially the original cable hole, the place where you insert the signal wires. That's the real challenge. 

 
Thanks for suggestions, I will get both 18 & 12 gauge and also cutting SMC to make room. Honestly I am not sure, if heavy gauge makes any SQ differences, just wanted to try because I have current hungry HP and powerfull amp, stock cables may not be doing justice to it. If I get more warm sound with out loosing dynamics then I will happy man.  

 

[sfo1972]

By strand count I'm referring to the individual strands of copper that make up a single wire. When people say 4-strand or 8-strand cable they are referring to the number of wires or conductors used to make the cable. It can be confusing. Context is key.

For the strand count in the wire, I prefer a minimum of 19 strands. 40 or more is preferable but ultimately leads to more expensive wire. You'll find plenty of cheap "OCC 7N blah blah blah" wire out there. The reason it's cheaper than other wire with similar specifications is due to the low strand count, usually 7 strands or solid core.
It's expensive to make wire with high strand count. You can Google why. Also, just know that it provides better flexibility and overall longevity to the cable. Those wires usually have harder insulation. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it means it loses some flexibility.

If you want an 8-strand cable, (ie 8 wires), you'll need 2 wires for each terminal (R+, R-, L+, L-). At the Y-split they will separate into two, 4-strand braids. Each set of 4 wires going to either the right or left mini-xlr connector. Make sure to label your wires with numbered tape or something.
From there, 2 wires will be used for each pin: 2 for R+, 2 for R-, 2 for L+ and 2 for L-.

 
 

For that length I'd personally do an 8 strand for four pin, 6 for three. With headphone cables, you really only care about the resistance of the cable, which can be cut in half with double the strands.

OK folks - I placed an order for 20AWG OCC silver plated x 19 strands just now. The wire hunt is over, for now, and I can switch my focus to connectors and Y-Split, braiding until the cables arrive. I believe I have the needed wiring diagrams as well. The hunt for connectors starts: mini-xlrs 4 pins, 1/4" TRS, and 4-pin XLR.
 
Many thanks for your help.

 

[sfo1972]

One more question guys, now that I am focusing on connectors I am getting a bit greedy 

 
Which vendors do you recommend for funky looking connectors and Y splitters? Cool stuff like the ones used on Silver Dragons, etc.
 
Many thanks

 

[BillsonChang007]

Hey guys! Do you guys know where can I get affordable RCA jack? I widh to build a lineout. Preferably, Ebay and ships to Brunei. I tried searching but no luck :/

Found it. xD

 

[ThurstonX]

I'm thinking about making an extension cable (Female RCA to Male RCA) for my turntable.  It needs to be about eight feet long, which would make the total just under 12-feet.  I've got the wire, just need to find some female RCA plugs.
 
The question is, is this a fool's errand?  Will that extension cause too much loss of signal by the time it hits the phono stage (Emotiva XPS-1)?  The cartridge is Moving Magnet, with the XPS-1 set accordingly.  I wonder if the extra gain for Moving Coil cartridges would make up for any signal loss, or if that's a bad idea.
 
Sorry for being slightly off topic, but y'all are pretty smart, so I figured I'd ask here 

 

[Kamakahah]

ThurstonX Sadly this is not in my repertoire of knowledge.

I recommend asking MuppetFace. While I'm not sure how familiar she is with the workings of cables, she has some pretty intense knowledge of vinyl setups and might be able to answer your question.

 

[ThurstonX]

@ThurstonX Sadly this is not in my repertoire of knowledge.

I recommend asking @MuppetFace. While I'm not sure how familiar she is with the workings of cables, she has some pretty intense knowledge of vinyl setups and might be able to answer your question.

 
Thanks.
 
If I have the couplers, I'm going to test the theory using that method with some cheap M-to-M RCAs.  If it passes that test, then I figure removing the coupler and going that much more direct will work.  I may shoot MuppetFace a PM re: the gain settings on the XPS-1.