DIY Cable Gallery!!
Dec 25, 2012 at 3:31 AM Post #10,892 of 16,302
Quote:
Just a quick question: I'm planning to buy 26awg 7n copper form Toxic Cablefor my  headphones. I also plan to make  RCA to RCA or 3.5mm to RCA, is 26 AWG still suiltable for RCAs?

26 is good, i usually use 22 and 24 though. It depends how long your wire will go.
 
Tim
 
Dec 25, 2012 at 3:52 AM Post #10,893 of 16,302
Quote:
26 is good, i usually use 22 and 24 though. It depends how long your wire will go.
 
Tim
 

Are you saying the longer it is, the 'fatter' the cable should be? In this case, what is the max lenghth befor I have to move up to 24awg?
 
Dec 25, 2012 at 5:21 AM Post #10,894 of 16,302
Quote:
Are you saying the longer it is, the 'fatter' the cable should be? In this case, what is the max lenghth befor I have to move up to 24awg?

Yes, that applies to Speaker Wire, so the same applies to RCA wire. They're both wires, the longer it is, the more signal is lost or distorted.
 
I use 24AWG until 10FT, 22AWG until 20FT, 20AWG for 30FT, 18AWG for 40FT, 16AWG for 50FT, anything over i try and keep it under 16AWG.
 
It can be a self preference thing, ultimately up to you. You most likely won't hear the difference even when using 28AWG, but some do swear audible differences when using thicker wires (or multiple) with higher strand count.
 
26AWG is fine, just shield them well or have a nice litz braid geometry (if you plan to take that route) to prevent RF/EMI (preferably in use at non-EMI areas.)
 
I litz braid all of my DIY cables, if the geometry helps with reducing EMI on headphone cables, then it should do the same with other cables. litz braid with shielding is even better.
 
Cable i made for my HE-400 and HE-500's.
 

 
 
Tim
 
Dec 25, 2012 at 11:28 PM Post #10,895 of 16,302
Motherffff-
 
My T50p's cable snagged on a doorknob and broke below the y-split, completely cutting off sound although it looked fine on the outside.
 
Thus an emergency recable, otherwise I was waiting to get some Blue Dragon and an Oyaide plug for this later:
 

 
Amphenol plug + Mogami 2893
 
I tried out Timber Creek paracord that I bought locally from Academy Outdoor and Sports above the y-split.  You can't tell from the photo, but the paracord melted a bit with the heat a few millimeters above the y-split.  It remains intact, just that it's now a semi-fully-solid piece of nylon tubing rather than braid, lol.  Wimpy and not as neat or durable as the mil-spec paracord that I usually get.  Below the y-split I am using navy blue mil-spec paracord.  The Timber Creek paracord is a smaller diameter from the Type-III paracord, suitable for two 2893 or 2534 conductors at a time.
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 12:47 AM Post #10,896 of 16,302
How hard was it to get inside the T50, Mad Max? Easy space and innards to work with? I've been contemplating a re-cable of my 1350... 
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 1:36 AM Post #10,897 of 16,302
Yes, T50p and DT1350 are easy to work with.  Well, so I think.
You could even use 24awg wires if you wanted to.  Just be very, very careful when prying out the driver and baffle.  Someone left photos of his recable here.  The baffles have a notch to help you realign them properly.  It is actually a bit more difficult to put the drivers/baffles back in properly than to remove them.  I used a very small flat-head screwdriver to pry out the baffle.
Edit: DT1350's innards
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 4:04 AM Post #10,898 of 16,302
That's a pretty thick cable there Max.
 
General Question: Does anyone know where to buy Silver Wires? (not silver plated copper, but full silver) 22-28AWG is fine. For Headphone Cable DIY.
 
Tim
 
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 2:12 PM Post #10,900 of 16,302
Look up Toxic Cables (Frank)..... He's a top bloke and has some sweet silver wire for DIY. Track back on this thread, he's posted here a lot.

Thanks harris,

I will look into it :)

Tim
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 8:32 PM Post #10,901 of 16,302
Quote:
Yes, T50p and DT1350 are easy to work with.  Well, so I think.
You could even use 24awg wires if you wanted to.  Just be very, very careful when prying out the driver and baffle.  Someone left photos of his recable here.  The baffles have a notch to help you realign them properly.  It is actually a bit more difficult to put the drivers/baffles back in properly than to remove them.  I used a very small flat-head screwdriver to pry out the baffle.
Edit: DT1350's innards

 
Awesome. Thanks. I'm getting sick of having to wrap up the extra cord length in velcro all the time. Since I only use these for portable use - it's time to fix that. I haven't decided if I'll do a detachable mod yet - I suppose it depends on how much room I have in there. 
 
Dec 26, 2012 at 9:47 PM Post #10,902 of 16,302
Well, if you use an NYS240 female 3.5mm jack as I've seen some people do, that's certainly way too big unless you have the jack outside of the cups.  Or maybe just make the cable detachable below the y-split.
 
This Jap used XLR detachment.  I would use a Switchcraft jack, but I think that the size of any jack being placed inside of the cups will reduce bass somewhat because the jacks will take up space and thus reduce how much air that the drivers can control in the cups.  Sound reflecting off of the jack bodies could affect the sound in some [probably negative] way.  These things would probably be insignificant in a headphone with much larger cups.
 
Dec 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM Post #10,904 of 16,302
Lovely job on those Beyers, look forward to seeing what you do with them later on! It's funny there's been a discussion about them as I've just shortened, sheathed and reterminated my 1350s (see below).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Thus an emergency recable, otherwise I was waiting to get some Blue Dragon and an Oyaide plug for this later:
 

 
Amphenol plug + Mogami 2893
 
I tried out Timber Creek paracord that I bought locally from Academy Outdoor and Sports above the y-split.  You can't tell from the photo, but the paracord melted a bit with the heat a few millimeters above the y-split.  It remains intact, just that it's now a semi-fully-solid piece of nylon tubing rather than braid, lol.  Wimpy and not as neat or durable as the mil-spec paracord that I usually get.  Below the y-split I am using navy blue mil-spec paracord.  The Timber Creek paracord is a smaller diameter from the Type-III paracord, suitable for two 2893 or 2534 conductors at a time.

 
Quote:
Yes, T50p and DT1350 are easy to work with.  Well, so I think.
You could even use 24awg wires if you wanted to.  Just be very, very careful when prying out the driver and baffle.  Someone left photos of his recable here.  The baffles have a notch to help you realign them properly.  It is actually a bit more difficult to put the drivers/baffles back in properly than to remove them.  I used a very small flat-head screwdriver to pry out the baffle.
Edit: DT1350's innards

 
Quote:
 
Awesome. Thanks. I'm getting sick of having to wrap up the extra cord length in velcro all the time. Since I only use these for portable use - it's time to fix that. I haven't decided if I'll do a detachable mod yet - I suppose it depends on how much room I have in there. 

 
This x100! The wire and chunky jack are a nightmare for on the go, which my 1350s get used for most! I've gone for a simple tidy-up with black multifilament and a Switchcraft R/A  salvaged from an older wire which wasn't getting any use:
 
 

 

 
It's a shame as I voided the 3 year warranty I got from Thomann but I think they're solid enough that that shouldn't be an issue, anything besides driver failure should be self-repairable anyway. At some point I'll probably go for a full recable with Toxic Cables wire and maybe one of those new design Oyaides.
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 9:03 AM Post #10,905 of 16,302
Just getting into the DIY scene and wanted to make a set of cables for my Audez'e. Are there are any pics or videos of how to do the mini xlr's properly, because I don't want to guess (and I had no luck finding any myself).
 

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