DIY Cable Gallery!!
Dec 28, 2012 at 10:54 AM Post #10,908 of 16,306
Quote:
Just getting into the DIY scene and wanted to make a set of cables for my Audez'e. Are there are any pics or videos of how to do the mini xlr's properly, because I don't want to guess (and I had no luck finding any myself).

 
Me personally:
- lightly tin the connectors on the mini-xlr
- lightly tin the wires
- try to arrange the wires into the right spatial config and set them into place
- I try to get the bottom (2) then centre (4) one first, before fiddling with the outer two
- signal is 1/4, ground is 2/3
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 11:02 AM Post #10,909 of 16,306
Quote:
 
Me personally:
- lightly tin the connectors on the mini-xlr
- lightly tin the wires
- try to arrange the wires into the right spatial config and set them into place
- I try to get the bottom (2) then centre (4) one first, before fiddling with the outer two
- signal is 1/4, ground is 2/3

You also don't need wires to 2 and 4 (or to jumper them) if you are running only two wires to each cup.  The pins are joined inside the cups of the Audeze socket.  But if running 4 wires to each cup, you must follow Armaegis' instructions.
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 7:01 PM Post #10,910 of 16,306
Quote:
You also don't need wires to 2 and 4 (or to jumper them) if you are running only two wires to each cup.  The pins are joined inside the cups of the Audeze socket.  But if running 4 wires to each cup, you must follow Armaegis' instructions.

Do you need four connecters for balanced connections?
 
On a separate note, I just talked to the people in Furutech, and they have a super high end mini xlr coming out in february.
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 7:09 PM Post #10,911 of 16,306
You need 4 at the amp (and 2 to each cup) for balanced. Many run 8/4 for the Audeze. Maybe the thick cable balances out the huge phones. ;D
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 7:47 PM Post #10,913 of 16,306
Quote:
You need 4 at the amp (and 2 to each cup) for balanced. Many run 8/4 for the Audeze. Maybe the thick cable balances out the huge phones. ;D

I just made an 8 wire cable for my LCD-2's, but these are so huge and heavy, I might have to move to 16 wires...
 
Dec 28, 2012 at 10:29 PM Post #10,914 of 16,306
Is there any way to get just the clear wires from the W2893:
http://www.performanceaudio.com/buy/Mogami/W2893/5603
 
I think BTG audio has them, but they sell it for $.8/ft, while the W2893 has 2 of them for $.8/ft. I just feel wasteful throwing away half the wires because I'll never use them
 
Dec 29, 2012 at 6:59 AM Post #10,915 of 16,306
Quote:
I think BTG audio has them, but they sell it for $.8/ft, while the W2893 has 2 of them for $.8/ft. I just feel wasteful throwing away half the wires because I'll never use them

 
Wind up the wire you don't use and put it aside for some other project or sell it to somebody else.
 
Think of BTG's added cost as the premium you pay for not having to go through the effort of cutting up and separating the Mogami cable. I think it's a fair price.
 
Dec 29, 2012 at 9:45 PM Post #10,916 of 16,306
Still havent bought any cable yet for my headphone recabling/interconnects/etc because i can not decide which to buy. From what i have read i have chosen either the Mogami W2534 cable for $1.09 per ft , Mogami W2893 for $0.79 per ft , Canare L-4E6S for $0.46 per ft , and the Canare L-4E5C for $0.45 per ft, all prices from Redco. Now im going to be stripping these cables from all the outer sleeving so does it matter which one i choose? From what i understand the L4E6S and W2534 are the same and the L4E5C and W2893 are the same, and the only difference between the 2 sets are the thickness but if im stripping them then it should not really matter? Then i should just go for the L4E5C as it is the cheapest?
Buying from America is always a big deal for me so i want to make sure i get everything right before i make my order. 
 
Dec 29, 2012 at 11:33 PM Post #10,917 of 16,306
Quote:
Still havent bought any cable yet for my headphone recabling/interconnects/etc because i can not decide which to buy. From what i have read i have chosen either the Mogami W2534 cable for $1.09 per ft , Mogami W2893 for $0.79 per ft , Canare L-4E6S for $0.46 per ft , and the Canare L-4E5C for $0.45 per ft, all prices from Redco. Now im going to be stripping these cables from all the outer sleeving so does it matter which one i choose? From what i understand the L4E6S and W2534 are the same and the L4E5C and W2893 are the same, and the only difference between the 2 sets are the thickness but if im stripping them then it should not really matter? Then i should just go for the L4E5C as it is the cheapest?
Buying from America is always a big deal for me so i want to make sure i get everything right before i make my order. 

I don't know what the exact difference is, but Mogami claims their Neglex is a better copper.  However, Canare has better stranding so you might get better flexibility.  If you want clear dialectric so you can see the copper, then you have to go with Mogami.  I have preferred the Mogami when keeping the cable intact as their spiral shield is marginally more flexible than the braided shield of the Canare.  
 
You won't really go wrong with any of them.  They are all high quality, and a great place to start.  You need to decide what factors are most important to you and then pick one.
 
Dec 30, 2012 at 6:43 AM Post #10,918 of 16,306
I guess I really should start buying Mogami cables and strip em to use for max cost effectiveness.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 7:01 PM Post #10,919 of 16,306
Happy New Year all...

I purchase doobooloo portable balanced amp from Mike's (headfonia owner) store in Indonesia.
Actually it can used by single ended cans.
To use as balanced I need to built dual trs 1/4" to xlr connector.
Noob question since I never made this connector, how the schematic of wiring system this connector for both side, (+) and (-) from 1/4 trs to xlr.

Thanks for any help.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 7:30 PM Post #10,920 of 16,306
Oh I remember that amp... where the two outputs are the same but one is inverted in polarity from the other. 
 
Let's designate the first one as +, and the right one as -
so on that first one you have tip/ring/sleeve which is L+/R+/ground
and the second one is tip/ring/sleeve which is L-/R-/ground
 
Assuming you're going to a 4-pin XLR, those pins correspond to:
pin 1: L+
pin 2: L-
pin 3: R+
pin 4: R-
 
If going to dual 3-pin XLRs, then... crap I forget off the top of my head... I think pin 1 is negative and pin 2 is positive and pin 3 is ground (not used) or sometimes joined with pin 1... but hopefully someone can chime in there. 
 

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