[Toxic Cables]

Looks like Oyaide have changed the design of the angled plugs to fit phone cases.
 
 
 

 

[daigo]

Good to see the aftermarket 1/8" plugs manufacturers adapt to how many people plug their products into.  I have had to carve up cases for my phone in the past to deal with larger plugs. 

 

[apollinaris]

Quote:

Looks like Oyaide have changed the design of the angled plugs to fit phone cases.
 

 
Sorry, how does it differ from these: 
 

 

[Toxic Cables]

This picture is a little clearer.
 
 

 

[ardgedee]

The funny thing is that plug shoulders might not be necessary for the iPhone 5. The headphone socket is so close to the microphone grille that case housings can't crowd it.
 
Big plugs like the Oyaide could probably still benefit, though.

 

[cgg123321]

Quote:

 
Mogami (W2893) or Canare (L-4E5C) starquad/miniquad is the best bang-for-buck wire you can ask for.
 
The usual go-to suppliers for it are Markertek and Redco. They're in the States so you might get better prices by shopping around within Canada.
 
I need to update the FAQ with this stuff.
 
 
I'm having trouble drawing a mental picture. Can you post a good close-up photo of the plug and the joints?

 Thanks for the heads up, I actually just got some L-4E5C for my KSC75 ( posted a few pages back). Unfortunately that stuff is a bit too thick and stiff for an iem
 
Anyways since this is a gallery here is a quick temp cable I made from VGA pins, Navship's SPC, and some $0.99 ebay mini plug. Probably one of the most ghetto cables on headfi, I would not recommend this as a permanent cable. 
 
 
 

 

[ardgedee]

Quote:

 Thanks for the heads up, I actually just got some L-4E5C for my KSC75 ( posted a few pages back). Unfortunately that stuff is a bit too thick and stiff for an iem

 
Strip away the outer jacket and shielding. You don't need 'em anyway. The extra effort is the price to pay for good cheap wire. All the cool kids are doin' it!

 

[cgg123321]

Quote:

 
Strip away the outer jacket and shielding. You don't need 'em anyway. The extra effort is the price to pay for good cheap wire. All the cool kids are doin' it!

 
I dont think I can strip it anymore without all the wires touching
 
 

So I just had the greatest beginner's luck on my first recable. I accidentally ripped up both of the leads to one of the drivers when my iron slipped. I managed to see both (extremely hair thin) leads and soldered them back on. I nearly cried in joy when i pressed play and heard sound. 
 
The recabled KSC75 sound completely different now. The sound seems like it's in the back of my head instead of near the front. I have no idea how to describe this in correct terms. Do cables need burn in or anything? 
 
 
^solved
 
 

 

 

[TrollDragon]

Sounds like you have one or both + & - reversed to me.
Tip wire should go to Left Driver +
Ring wire should go to Right Driver +
Sleeve connects to the Right & Left Driver -
 
You'll have to check with a meter where each connection goes and change either end accordingly.

 

[Mad Max]

Quote:

Are the Neutrik shells more or less the same between 3-pin and 4-pin? One could possibly just swap them out, or order shells separately.

 
Identical, fully interchangeable.  I've built 3-pin and 4-pin adapters before.

 

[Deathdeisel]

God im getting sick of this crap issues. Still dealing with the same 3.5mm from before. Said screw it and scrapped the one plug, and restarted on one side. Now having one side with no sound. Right side is without sound, tried playing with the tip connections and couldnt get sound out of the left. So could this be a ground issue now? 

 

[ardgedee]

Quote:

I dont think I can strip it anymore without all the wires touching

 
Whoops, didn't remember the first time you'd posted that pic.
 
The braid is really tight. That's going to make the cable stiffer.
 
Quote:

God im getting sick of this crap issues. Still dealing with the same 3.5mm from before. Said screw it and scrapped the one plug, and restarted on one side. Now having one side with no sound. Right side is without sound, tried playing with the tip connections and couldnt get sound out of the left. So could this be a ground issue now? 

 
Can you post pics of the soldered areas? It's hard to diagnose that by description alone.

 

[Deathdeisel]

 
So i checked the channels as I could with my multimeter(I have no idea how to use it). The left connection under DC Volts(.25) im getting signal, but on the right im not getting signal on any currents of any kind. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong? Currently im just hooking one connector the sleeve/ground connection, and then alternating the positive to check left and right. 

 

[Armaegis]

Phew, this took a ridiculously long time to do... I think about 10-12 hours? 
 
LCD-2 cable
2x 4-pin miniXLR into 4-pin XLR(m) (2x 4strand braid into 8strand braid)
4-pin XLR(f) into 4-pin XLR(m)
4-pin XLR(f) into Furutech TRS
 
 

 

 

 

 
 

 

[ardgedee]

So i checked the channels as I could with my multimeter(I have no idea how to use it). The left connection under DC Volts(.25) im getting signal, but on the right im not getting signal on any currents of any kind. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong? Currently im just hooking one connector the sleeve/ground connection, and then alternating the positive to check left and right. 

 
So to understand the problem:
Your left channel has a closed circuit from TIP, through the + and Ground wires, back to SLEEVE
Your right channel has an open circuit from RING to SLEEVE
 
Assuming the problem is in the connections on this plug, you can test the wires by putting a probe on either side of the solder joint (or one probe on the plug contact and one on the corresponding the wire) and see if there's continuity through the joint.
 
The solder blob on the ground tab looks like it's barely adhering. I'd also try cleaning up some of the excess solder to help reduce the risk of bridging or shorting the lines.
 
As far as using a multimeter for continuity testing, I use mine with the dial set at 200 Ohm and if the display reacts I have continuity. (since my meter is digital, "1.0" means no continuity, wildly fluctuating numbers means continuity.)

 
If there's not much room, you should be able to stab the tip of your probe directly into the wire through the blue or white insulation, too.