[Armaegis]

Seeing as their interconnects push easily into 4 digits, I'm a little afraid to ask just what the connector would cost... 

 

[CSGO rice]

Alright, so I started working on my HD600 cable and for the wire, I bought a starquad cable that was already attached to a neutrik plug thinking it would save me some work.
I don't know how the person I bought it from connected the plug to the wire, but I was trying to test for which was left and which was right.
But each side played both.  Meaning that when something was only supposed to be playing on the left side, the right side also played.
Does anyone know what the problem might be?

 

[apollinaris]

Quote:

The only thing I think could be wrong now is that the neutrik plug was grounded with the shield?  In that case, what could I do?
How would I take off the neutrik plug and rewire the insides?
 
I'll post a pic if it'll help.

 
Why don't you try opening Neutrik plug (unscrew the metal shell) and see which wires are soldered where. And yes, shield is normally soldered together with two other wires to ground on the plug's side, and is just cut off on Cardas connectors side, where you solder just two wires - signal and ground. Good luck!

 

[cgg123321]

So I accidentally bought navship's 28awg 7 strand wire for my TF10 cable. They are definitely too stiff (they form into any shape and stay that way) for IEM use. Where else can I get affordable wire for iem's? I live in Canada and I'm itching to use my TF10's again as I have no cable.
 
 

 

[Deathdeisel]

Quote:

So guys, was making a 3.5mm interconnect, and got everything soldered up until on one plug the left tip contact broke off. I tried soldering it to the base of where the contact folded but now my sound is very very quiet. Sounds fine besides that, just sound is reduced by like 80%, any ideas?

Anyone? 

 

[TrollDragon]

Sounds like a possible short between the left and right on that connector. A solder bridge maybe. Do you have a meter to check the resistance between L & R?

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

 

[liamstrain]

All sound? or just the one channel? 
 
It sounds a bit like it's hitting a lot of resistance - cold solder joint, or solder bridge? 

 

[Deathdeisel]

Okay are we allowed to solder on the little pin on the middle? Because thats what I did, because the left contact point broke off. And its all sound, just very quiet. Had one channel at first but then corrected it. 

 

[liamstrain]

Which connectors are you using? "Little pin on the middle" doesn't mean much to me... 

 

[Deathdeisel]

aphenol 3.5mm, the metal contact in the middle, that flanges out to what your actually supposed to solder on(part i broke), which happens to have a small pin running into it. 

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

Anyone? 

 
Is the sound echo-y? you might have pooched the ground wire. 

 

[CSGO rice]

So I asked the guy I got my wire from.
He said
[size=10pt]"The shield goes to pin #1 or sleeve (i'm assuming this is the ground)
The blue pair goes to pin #3 or ring
The white pair goes to Pin #2 or tip"[/size]
 
For a hd600 cable, would I have to rewire the connection to the plug?  or could i somehow work with this?

 

[ardgedee]

Quote:

Neutrik is super solid with either gold or silver plated contacts.  Their stainless steel one looks very nice, actually, just wish they had it in black as well.  Switchcraft are good, but I don't like the way they look (whole point).  Amphenol makes them too, but they still look like Neutriks.

 
The NC4FXX-B and NC4MXX-B are good-looking. I've got some here waiting to be turned into adaptors and a HiFiMan cable. You could probably get a metal shop to CNC a threaded tailpiece to fit the plug barrel. Won't be cheap but once you've got a template you could get as many turned out as you'd like. 

 

[ardgedee]

Quote:

So I accidentally bought navship's 28awg 7 strand wire for my TF10 cable. They are definitely too stiff (they form into any shape and stay that way) for IEM use. Where else can I get affordable wire for iem's? I live in Canada and I'm itching to use my TF10's again as I have no cable.

 
Mogami (W2893) or Canare (L-4E5C) starquad/miniquad is the best bang-for-buck wire you can ask for.
 
The usual go-to suppliers for it are Markertek and Redco. They're in the States so you might get better prices by shopping around within Canada.
 
I need to update the FAQ with this stuff.
 
Quote:

Anyone? 

 
I'm having trouble drawing a mental picture. Can you post a good close-up photo of the plug and the joints?

 

[ardgedee]

Quote:

So I asked the guy I got my wire from.
He said
[size=10pt]"The shield goes to pin #1 or sleeve (i'm assuming this is the ground)
The blue pair goes to pin #3 or ring
The white pair goes to Pin #2 or tip"[/size]
 
For a hd600 cable, would I have to rewire the connection to the plug?  or could i somehow work with this?

 
Sounds like the plug is wired for a microphone, not a headphone.
 
For a headphone, the stereo TRS plug has to be:
Tip: Left
Ring: Right
Sleeve: Ground
 
So the right side of your headphone has to connect to Ring and Sleeve.
The left side of your headphone has to connect to Tip and Sleeve.
 
If you close a circuit between Ring and Tip, you're bridging channels and that's bad. Test connections with a circuit tester or multimeter, not your amp and headphones. A multimeter is a lot cheaper than a replacement amp.
 
So, yes, you'll have to rewire the plug. I'm guessing the path of least resistance is to connect one white to Tip, one white to Ring, and both blues to Sleeve on the plug side. Then attach one blue and one white (as appropriate) to each side of the headphone. You can ignore the shield.  You don't really have to shield a headphone cable unless you're running a crazy long line (dozens of meters) or you work next to an AM radio transmitter, but since it's there you can optionally keep the shield attached to the sleeve and leave the other end of the shield unconnected. It won't hurt anything.