[DefQon]

That is a GEC and yes rebranded by CVC I had an identical one.

 

[palmfish]

It sure looks like a GEC to me...
 

 

[SNSDluv]

  That is a GEC and yes rebranded by CVC I had an identical one.

So they do sound the same right?

 

[DefQon]

  So they do sound the same right?

It's a re-brand not a reissue from a different manufacturing plant (unless specified) so yes they sound the same. GEC's are distinguishable by there brown base which I have not seen any other 6AS7/6080 equivalent manufacturer use. 

 

[SNSDluv]

  It's a re-brand not a reissue from a different manufacturing plant (unless specified) so yes they sound the same. GEC's are distinguishable by there brown base which I have not seen any other 6AS7/6080 equivalent manufacturer use. 

Thanks so much for the quick response. Last question, I am not sure if it's a fake or real. How do you think about this matter? Is it easy/hard to fake something like this?

 

[DefQon]

 
Thanks so much for the quick response. Last question, I am not sure if it's a fake or real. How do you think about this matter? Is it easy/hard to fake something like this?

 
No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.

 

[SNSDluv]

  It sure looks like a GEC to me...
 

 

   
No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.

Thank you two very much for the quick response! YOU AWESOME PEEPS

 

[SNSDluv]

   
No chance of those being fake - at all period. I had the same identical tube bought from a tube supplier locally. First thing if it was a fake it would have unknown and indistinguishable manufacturer(plant)/date codes, second of all it would have a completely different structure of the plates, heaters, getter and grid inside the tube that does not carry the design and characteristic traits of a GEC tube. Sometimes Mullards come close but still different and different sound if you have a pair of GEC's to compare with each other for reference.

Another question for you or anyone else will know. Will the GEC Brown base work nicely with Hytron 5814A? I am pairing this with HD700 by the way. Looking for a stronger bass and less treble.

 

[DefQon]

I haven't tried the Hytrons so I don't know.

 

[Oskari]

  The owner said that it is from a company CVC but he claims that it is made by GEC and rebranded by CVC.

 
I don't see any evidence of any brand. Is there a CVC label on the tube but invisible in the photos?
 
The CV type code has no relation to CVC aka Chelmer. It is just the UK government type code for a GEC (or MOV) A1834. 6AS7G is the American type code.
 

1. http://www.chelmervalve.com/
2. http://www.tubecollector.org/cv-valves.htm

 

[punit]

I want to buy a 6SN7 to 12AU7  adapter & there are 2 options available : 6.3 V & 12.6 V . Which one do I choose ?
 
Thanks

 

[TinFoildHat]

Got my shipping confirmation 31st January, ordered Crack+Speedball 12th January, it´s like a late Christmas present 

 just have to wait for it to be shipped half way across the world 

Anyway, when you painted the chassis plate and the bell cover did any of you use primer (paint)?
I kinda like the hammered finish look, but I have read somewhere that you need a special primer when you paint on aluminium. 

 

[mordicai]

That's correct.

 

[JamieMcC]

  Got my shipping confirmation 31st January, ordered Crack+Speedball 12th January, it´s like a late Christmas present 

 just have to wait for it to be shipped half way across the world 

Anyway, when you painted the chassis plate and the bell cover did any of you use primer (paint)?
I kinda like the hammered finish look, but I have read somewhere that you need a special primer when you paint on aluminium.

 
Congrats hope you have a lot of fun building.
 
As for the paint generally for alloy a primer or is recommended. However this also depends on what type of paint system you intend to use. Find the spec sheet for your intended paint finish and see if a primer or undercoat is required for alloy it should give you details on what the paint manufacturer recommends for good results.

 

[JamieMcC]

Well I suppose it was inevitable I have had a JFX  2.2uF 250V Polypropylene Film cap that has been sitting in my parts box for a while now (I brought it at the same time as the 100uf films as it only cost £1.72) and ended up soldering it in as film bypass cap across the last electrolytic filter cap in the Crack earlier today.

I feel there has been a slight improvement in fluidity and presence a touch more body to vocals and also the top end has slightly more crispness to the shimmers and tinkles without importantly for me adding any brightness.

It now opens up a can of worms with respect to trying something like a PIO or SIO or further bypassing of the current bypassing cap with a smaller Teflon.
 
I will let the cap burn in for a week or two in situ while I mull over which options to have fun experimenting with next.