[Rocko1]

Quote:

The controls are still really scratchy, but what sound I'm getting out of it sounds good. Fairly neutral, with a little bass warmth, but since its all old capacitors and it still needs to be cleaned (inside and out), we'll see how that changes.
 
 
Fisher trade?

JK

Deoxit all the controls, work them 20x in each direction. This should cure all the scratchiness.

 

[Lee Harvey]

Quote:

Copied and pasted for posterity. Thank You!

To make electronic things really easy, try downloading the App, "ElectroDroid" to your smartphone.  It has color codes for resistors, SMD's, circuit calculators, ohm's law and lots of other helpful stuff.

 

[wotts]

Quote:

Ah, thanks. I was adding the third color to the total. Makes sense now. Thank you.
 
Can you tell me how these resistors differ from the sand block type? I would think that this little resistor would overheat with all that power going through it. 

The resistor on the headphone jack is probably a metal-film or carbon-film type, and I'm guessing a rating around 1/4w to 1/2w dissipation. The wire wound or sand block resistors can be anywhere from 2w to 25w rated. Mind you this is a rating for heat dissipation.
 
 
 
Quote:

Many use a isopropyl alcohol and water mixture with a paint brush with the bristles cut down-tape the metal edges. Gently scrub the boards with this and then use compressor to dry it and then let it set a day or two with the cover off to make sure it's dry. I have seen boards brought back to brand new condition using this method.

 
 
Awesome. Thank you!

 

[Maverickmonk]

Quote:

Deoxit all the controls, work them 20x in each direction. This should cure all the scratchiness.

Yup, worked like a charm. Finally got some real deoxit d100 instead of the generic contact cleaner I've used the past few times. It works a whole lot better. Runs like a champ now, no clicks or pops, and sounds pretty good too. I might not even recap this one, or maybe just the power supply caps. Looks a hundred times better too.
 

 

[Rocko1]

Quote:

Yup, worked like a charm. Finally got some real deoxit d100 instead of the generic contact cleaner I've used the past few times. It works a whole lot better. Runs like a champ now, no clicks or pops, and sounds pretty good too. I might not even recap this one, or maybe just the power supply caps. Looks a hundred times better too.
 

Recapping all caps is not always a necessary but a good place-easy-to start if you want is the power supply section. Can do most units for under $20.

 

[Maverickmonk]

Yeah, this is my 3rd restore, and I've already compiled a full capacitor list, but this was a free stereo, and I'm not even sure that it's worth much, and since I'm a poor college student, I've got a rule of not putting more into something than I can get out of it. It's pretty much the only way that I can justify this hobby of mine. any clue what a stereo like this would be worth? I can't really find a lot on this one

 

[hojomojo96]

What would you guys say about the Kenwood 4070 and the Pioneer sx626? What price should I be looking for, and how good quality do they put out?
 
EDIT: I can get both for 100, total, fyi. The sx626 works for sure, the 4070 hasn't been tested.

 

[Rocko1]

If they are in both great physical condition that is a fair price. I like the Pioneer a bit better but both are very good receivers.
 
Kenwood is 40 watts per ch.RMS
Pioneer is 20 " " "

 

[monoethylene]

I only know the Pio, because I have it and imo this is an entry receiver. I ve restored mine as well as the woodcase. The FM reception is really good and the sound as well. Be sure to get the speaker adaptors and be aware that big RCA plugs wont fit because the space is really narrow..

 

[hojomojo96]

Quote:

I only know the Pio, because I have it and imo this is an entry receiver. I ve restored mine as well as the woodcase. The FM reception is really good and the sound as well. Be sure to get the speaker adaptors and be aware that big RCA plugs wont fit because the space is really narrow..

Well, I'm an entry level user. x) I probably won't get the speaker adaptors, since I plan on using it for headphones. How does it fare as far as that goes?
 
Quote:

If they are in both great physical condition that is a fair price. I like the Pioneer a bit better but both are very good receivers.
 
Kenwood is 40 watts per ch.RMS
Pioneer is 20 " " "

Hmm okay, interesting. I won't be paying shipping, so will offering any lower be a lowball? Remember, the 4070 may or may not work.
 
Also, I know you all are fans of more vintage sources, but will using my laptop as a source work fine for these?

 

[Rocko1]

Quote:

Well, I'm an entry level user. x) I probably won't get the speaker adaptors, since I plan on using it for headphones. How does it fare as far as that goes?
 

Hmm okay, interesting. I won't be paying shipping, so will offering any lower be a lowball? Remember, the 4070 may or may not work.
 
Also, I know you all are fans of more vintage sources, but will using my laptop as a source work fine for these?

No, I don't think so. Is there a reason the unit can't be tested? What physical shape are both in? You can always offer $75, worst he can say is no.

 

[Rocko1]

Quote:

No, I don't think so. Is there a reason the unit can't be tested? What physical shape are both in? You can always offer $75, worst he can say is no.

 
If I were going to spend $100, I would look for a good working Marantz 2220 or 2216. The build quality is just amazing. The loudness function is superb and to my ears the best I have heard in have over 50 receivers. In the scheme of things, even $150 on a nice vintage receiver is a decent price, IMO.
 

 

[OJNeg]

Quote:

 
If I were going to spend $100, I would look for a good working Marantz 2220 or 2216. The build quality is just amazing. The loudness function is superb and to my ears the best I have heard in have over 50 receivers. In the scheme of things, even $150 on a nice vintage receiver is a decent price, IMO.
 
 

I agree. Those low-powered, capacitor coupled receivers have a really great sound to them. Nowadays, it seems like vintage gear is going way up in price. Some of the higher end vintage Marantz units go for ~$500, and you're lucky if you can find a 2220 for under $200. It also seems like it's impossible to find a good receiver in any thrift store; they all get plucked out quickly and put on eBay.

 

[Maverickmonk]

I agree on the smaller receivers. The RS-1035 is capacitor coupled, so far as I can tell, and it sounds really quite nice. Very similar to the smaller pioneer's in my opinion, which would make sense, since the Sanyo power packs on the fisher seem fairly similar to the Darlington powerpacks on the pioneers. The preamplifier topology on the Fisher is also pretty efficient. There are minimal capacitors in the signal path, there's only 6 on the whole preamp board (one for each channel per control knob). Power filtering capacitors could be a little larger, but the overall layout seems as efficient as it is minimalist. I'm doing a capacitor list write up for audiokarma, since there's not a lot of documentation out there on this amp.
 
Ok, I need someone to talk me down from this, or up to this, either way. I'm split between building an M^3, or holding out and bidding until I can win a Marantz 2270/2275/2285 or Pioneer SX-980/SX-1050. I figure either will cost me about the same price, and either will be a fun little project. Oh this hobby...

 

[Skylab]

Any of you who are serious about looking to buy vintage audio should subscribe over at AudioKarma...there are some amazing deals in "Barter Town" there, but you have to subscribe to have access to Barter Town.  Well worth it, IMHO.