[vladstef]

I have the RT-1 with the original cable, I have the TRN silver up-grade cable and I have the Silver KZ up-grade cable for the ZST. I just tested all these with the RT-1 and I couldn't notice any difference in the sound. The original cable didn't work for me because it was so springy that every time I moved I lost the seal in my left ear. The TRN cable is very nice and has formed ear guides without a wire. For some reason I continued having an issue with the seal in my left ear. I saw Auglamour's new F100 which looks to be the same shape without a removable cable and it shows it being worn cable down. The KZ cable I have is one of the originals that didn't have the wire ear guides and I had trimmed it down to work with the KZ ZS. What I found worked really well for me was using this KZ cable switching the Left and Right earphones and wearing them cable down. This provided me with a better fit in my left ear so that I didn't have to keep repositioning to keep the seal. I might be wrong and if so I'm sure I will be corrected but I don't think the +/- matters as long as it is the same for both earphones. They are either in phase (both the same) or out of phase (one is different than the other).

Thanks for this reply even though I am confused more than ever about this. Either you've been listening with wrong polarity all this time or I am crazy... I have 2 pairs of those small cables that go to the bluetooth module, one pair is RT-1 2 pin and other pair is regular 2 pin cable. Here is the thing, I just reconfirmed my findings, regular 2 pin connector compared to RT-1's has one side different in terms of polarity. I also did confirm this by listening to polarity tests online and for me only one question remains - which side of RT-1 is different compared to other IEMs. The regular 2 pin cables for bluetooth don't have a clear indication how they go into IEMs, they have L and R marks on the silver part but on the connectors there is only a small circular hole on one side of the connector - if I assume that that hole is supposed to go towards the head then left side of RT-1 is inverted and ground goes back while signal is towards the front.

You have all the tools to make a definitive conclusion, you just have to check the original RT-1 cable compared to KZ or TRN cables. Test closed circuits and see what part of the 3.5mm jack is connected to which pin on cables - if you have no experience, tip of the 3.5mm jack is L+, second part is R+ and last metal part is common ground R- and L- (having one more metal part would be for the microphone if any of the cables has it). I didn't have voltmeter so I tested it with a battery and a TV remote, you could use a small LED or anything that will show you whether the circuit is closed or not.

 

[RvTrav]

Thanks for this reply even though I am confused more than ever about this. Either you've been listening with wrong polarity all this time or I am crazy... I have 2 pairs of those small cables that go to the bluetooth module, one pair is RT-1 2 pin and other pair is regular 2 pin cable. Here is the thing, I just reconfirmed my findings, regular 2 pin connector compared to RT-1's has one side different in terms of polarity. I also did confirm this by listening to polarity tests online and for me only one question remains - which side of RT-1 is different compared to other IEMs. The regular 2 pin cables for bluetooth don't have a clear indication how they go into IEMs, they have L and R marks on the silver part but on the connectors there is only a small circular hole on one side of the connector - if I assume that that hole is supposed to go towards the head then left side of RT-1 is inverted and ground goes back while signal is towards the front.

You have all the tools to make a definitive conclusion, you just have to check the original RT-1 cable compared to KZ or TRN cables. Test closed circuits and see what part of the 3.5mm jack is connected to which pin on cables - if you have no experience, tip of the 3.5mm jack is L+, second part is R+ and last metal part is common ground R- and L- (having one more metal part would be for the microphone if any of the cables has it). I didn't have voltmeter so I tested it with a battery and a TV remote, you could use a small LED or anything that will show you whether the circuit is closed or not.

OK left side connector placed in front of me with L marking facing up and pins pointing to my left. Current to tip of 3.5mm jack circuit is complete on bottom pin (closest to me). All 3 cables are the same and none of the cables have controls or mics. I can see no L/R markings on the RT-1 however where the connector goes in it is rounded on one side the original RT-1 cable however fits either way, the directions state that the R/L markings should be facing out. This is the same for the KZs and TRN V10. When I wear the RT-1s cable down I put the right earpiece in my left ear and hook up the left side of the cable into it. Hope this helps.

 

[Zlivan]

It could be just reversed polarity on one side of that specific pair.
I've seen a bunch of reports with other brands, perhaps Auglamour is not immune to qc issues also.

 

[Otto Motor]

Isn't the ZSR suppose to be a 1D+2BA iem?

Yes, I cannot count today.

 

[vladstef]

OK left side connector placed in front of me with L marking facing up and pins pointing to my left. Current to tip of 3.5mm jack circuit is complete on bottom pin (closest to me). All 3 cables are the same and none of the cables have controls or mics. I can see no L/R markings on the RT-1 however where the connector goes in it is rounded on one side the original RT-1 cable however fits either way, the directions state that the R/L markings should be facing out. This is the same for the KZs and TRN V10. When I wear the RT-1s cable down I put the right earpiece in my left ear and hook up the left side of the cable into it. Hope this helps.

OK, fantastic to know - left side is definitely proper on all of the things that you own and I can live now knowing at least that my left side will be in proper polarity by using the standard 2 pin orientation - front being negative and back being positive. From there I will adjust right side to be opposite of that and then it's ok for me. Makes me wonder, have they done a revision of some sorts because cables that come with RT-1 for bluetooth when connected properly (R and L marks facing outwards, indentation in plastic of the male connector matches the shape of the female connector) sound proper, and reversing one side clearly makes it sound out of phase.
This comment has been amazing, thank you so much!!

It could be just reversed polarity on one side of that specific pair.
I've seen a bunch of reports with other brands, perhaps Auglamour is not immune to qc issues also.

True in general, but then this would mean that one of my IEMs has reversed polarity AND one of the cables has reversed polarity - pretty sure that even KZ does better than that.



To summarize, the issue that I had was not having an original RT1 cable and only having bluetooth cables - then I detected that IEMs are only properly phased once one side has ground towards the front and other towards the back or wise versa and wanted to see which one makes them both phased like they should be and not both phased like they shouldn't be (just to be safe, many people think that it's ok to have both sides out of phase on IEMs). My findings go well with the shape of the female 2 pin connector on RT1 which is asymmetrical and mounted differently on both sides, not both facing left or right but faced towards one another. Anyways, whatever the case ended up being, I will just stay away from angled 2 pin connectors and focus on straight 2 pin connectors which you can turn however you want to when connecting to IEM.

 

[waveriderhawaii]

Original Xiaomi Mi Capsule

• $7.98

With LIMITED code DS0803. https://www.dresslily.com/original-xiaomi-mi-capsule-design-product2683869.html?lkid=12392261

I have no idea who dresslily.com is, but they got a 8.80/10 with 1,688 reviews at Resellerratings.com. Code is working as of this moment. I just tried it. Free shipping is 15-30 business days but they have other options. Please note that when you add it to your cart, it will add Shipping Insurance for $1.44. You can un-select it when you go to choose your shipping method.

 

[Ishaan]

Hey,
My se215 finally broke apart after faithfully serving me for 5 years. I recently learned about chifi and decided to give it a try. Its a vast world and I'm having a hard time.

Can you guys recommend some iems which which have similar mids like se215 with slightly better highs and tighter base?

I'm getting a good deal on KZ ZS5 but looking through the posts, it seems very controversial. It looks like downgrade when comparing mids with se215.
I don't want to spend over 25$ as shipping to my country is a bit sketchy.

All help appreciated. Thanks.

 

[vladstef]

Hey,
My se215 finally broke apart after faithfully serving me for 5 years. I recently learned about chifi and decided to give it a try. Its a vast world and I'm having a hard time.

Can you guys recommend some iems which which have similar mids like se215 with slightly better highs and tighter base?

I'm getting a good deal on KZ ZS5 but looking through the posts, it seems very controversial. It looks like downgrade when comparing mids with se215.
I don't want to spend over 25$ as shipping to my country is a bit sketchy.

All help appreciated. Thanks.

Shure se215 has an outdated tonality by current standards, warmth in the bass yet no treble, it's like half of a V shape.
ZS5 compared to se215 - more bass and instead of missing treble it adds a piercing sound to everything. Sound stage is incomparable given how bad it is on se215. It's very V shaped though and it masks the mid range way too much imho.
The IEM that impressed me recently is Auglamour RT-1 and it's better at everything compared to se215, somethings by a serious margin like mid range resolution, clarity, treble, sound stage, sub bass stability - and on top of everything it's as comfortable and as isolating as se215. Tonality is different though, there is a lot more of upper mid range on RT-1 which actually puts it somewhere towards a V shape sound.

 

[TLDRonin]

Are the zs5 votes for the v1 version?

 

[riffrafff]

Are the zs5 votes for the v1 version?

How can one tell them apart?

 

[Ishaan]

Shure se215 has an outdated tonality by current standards, warmth in the bass yet no treble, it's like half of a V shape.
ZS5 compared to se215 - more bass and instead of missing treble it adds a piercing sound to everything. Sound stage is incomparable given how bad it is on se215. It's very V shaped though and it masks the mid range way too much imho.
The IEM that impressed me recently is Auglamour RT-1 and it's better at everything compared to se215, somethings by a serious margin like mid range resolution, clarity, treble, sound stage, sub bass stability - and on top of everything it's as comfortable and as isolating as se215. Tonality is different though, there is a lot more of upper mid range on RT-1 which actually puts it somewhere towards a V shape sound.

Thanks a lot. Though ordering this is an expensive gamble. I do not received half of the things I order from aliexpress and am able to get refund on half of that.
Are there other places with a better deal? If not then any other good iems for under 25$ that I'm willing to risk.

EDIT: Found it on gearbest for 55$. I'll keep checking for sale daily. Hopefully I can get my hands on them soon.

 

[Slater]

In another hand, anybody try the UiiSii CM5?

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/chi...phones-and-iems.820747/page-778#post-13737081

 

[Slater]

About tesla driver....no other chifi IEM have this technology, wich is a shame....there a 300$ Hybrid tesla from Zhiyin....man, wish I was RICH! Can't imagine the sound it give with tesla dynamic + 4BA drivers....should be out of this world.

I too have been thinking about the ZhiYin QT5 in the back of my mind.

I would not spend that much on an IEM, but the thought of an even more powerful tesla dynamic PLUS BA drivers. Wow!

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

I too have been thinking about the ZhiYin QT5 in the back of my mind.

I would not spend that much on an IEM, but the thought of an even more powerful tesla dynamic PLUS BA drivers. Wow!

Yeah, my hope about these downward a little....when I read very mitiged Headfi review about them. The joy about this type of particular dynamic drivers is perhaps better to be enjoy in one piece. Still really enjoying my Z5000.............now, I repeat way too much myself, will write a review, need too.

Another thing I need is to mod the ZS6, cause right now: they take dust.

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

DEAL WITH IT. Final Score.

1. KZ ZS5 (at less than 30$)
   43 vote(s)
   29.7%
2. Tinaudio T2 (50$)
   36 vote(s)
   24.8%
3. E-MI C1880 (less than 30$)
   
   15 vote(s)
   10.3%
4. Urbanfun Hybrid
   
   12 vote(s)
   8.3%
5. EMX500
   
   11 vote(s)
   7.6%
   
   
6. KZ ED9 (at 12$, yep)
   
   10 vote(s)
   6.9%
7. VIDO (3-6$)
   
   9 vote(s)
   6.2%
   
   
8. MEMT X5
   3 vote(s)
   2.1%
9. Nicehck BRO (20-24$)
   3 vote(s)
   2.1%
10. TY HiZ 32ohm
    3 vote(s)
    2.1%