[Narayan23]

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I was listening to my Lkers yesterday: mid bass monster, horribly overdone, fun spoiling. Clarity etc. also not great. I also wonder whether ours have the same tuning. How much did you pay? I paid $38 which may have been a cheaper batch. But the original $64 are a joke.

As to getting your cheap miracle earphone - funny, I though about this this morning. And the clear and only winner is:

Sony MH1C, available for $22 on eBay (evango was a good seller, I am not related). Super earphones, praised by audiophiles on a website we are not allowed to mention here. Great stage, resolution, layering, instrument separation...but with a terrible flat, j-shaped cable and a remote only to be used with Sony phones.

Original price was $80 and they are easily worth that money in terms of sound. I compared to the ZS5 which sounded tinny in the mids and piercing in the treble, like a plastic toy.

And guess what, I have never been keen on Sony.

I payed $34 for the LKER´s, yes $64 is way too much. Thanks for the tip on the Sony´s, I´ll do some reading on them but for that price they might do a Robert Palmer on me because they seem "simply irresistible"

 

[waveriderhawaii]

I payed $34 for the LKER´s, yes $64 is way too much. Thanks for the tip on the Sony´s, I´ll do some reading on them but for that price they might do a Robert Palmer on me because they seem "simply irresistible"

Be careful with those Sony MH1C. Some of them had something strange about the 3.5mm connector,. To make them work you had to do something weird like hold down one of the buttons, plug them in, then let go off the button. Either that or buy some sort of 3.5 to 3.5mm adapter for the end or wire your own in. Read up on this before you buy.

 

[vladstef]

Be careful with those Sony MH1C. Some of them had something strange about the 3.5mm connector,. To make them work you had to do something weird like hold down one of the buttons, plug them in, then let go off the button. Either that or buy some sort of 3.5 to 3.5mm adapter for the end or wire your own in. Read up on this before you buy.

This is only for the MH1 with green Sony logo on the back - had a strange mic that isn't friendly. MH1c is a revision that is only white/black on the back without green Sony logo - tried them and they work on modern Androids without issues. Bought a pair for 10$ locally, wanted to recable them but gave them to my brother who actually loves the cable (go figure.....). They sound amazing and full, absolutely amazing. Problem is availability because they aren't in production anymore.

 

[chinmie]

Did the earbud foam mod on my Svara Red, it tames down the highs and warmed the sound a little (giving it an earbud-y sound), it also reduces the driver flex happening because of the pourous foam lets the air slips better when i put them in my ears

 

[udd3n]

Z5000 vs Tennmak Pro? Cons pros on both of someone can compare them. Z5000 is much more expensive but as much better?

 

[Otto Motor]

Be careful with those Sony MH1C. Some of them had something strange about the 3.5mm connector,. To make them work you had to do something weird like hold down one of the buttons, plug them in, then let go off the button. Either that or buy some sort of 3.5 to 3.5mm adapter for the end or wire your own in. Read up on this before you buy.

Yes, but that was an earlier version.

 

[vladstef]

I need someone who has Auglamour RT-1 to confirm something. I've been looking for cables and found potential polarity issues. There are some angled 2pin cables on ali advertised for KZ lineup as well as RT-1, however, I think that KZ and Auglmour use different polarity with pins... Here is the link I am talking about.

KZ does this: ground is always towards front, and signal is towards the back. However, I think that Auglamour RT-1 uses this on the right side while the left side has plus signal towards the front and minus ground towards the back. I don't have original RT-1 cable to test this, I just want to know how the pins are organised when cable is properly seated on them (R-L logo facing away from your head).
I am certain that RT1 has this kind of setup with pins but I can't properly tell which side has minus towards front and which one has plus - it sounds awfully similar when both drivers are out of phase compared to proper phasing. This is why I hate 2pin cables, information about polarity is impossible to find... MMCX is so much better in this regard.

 

[DBaldock9]

I need someone who has Auglamour RT-1 to confirm something. I've been looking for cables and found potential polarity issues. There are some angled 2pin cables on ali advertised for KZ lineup as well as RT-1, however, I think that KZ and Auglmour use different polarity with pins... Here is the link I am talking about.

KZ does this: ground is always towards front, and signal is towards the back. However, I think that Auglamour RT-1 uses this on the right side while the left side has plus signal towards the front and minus ground towards the back. I don't have original RT-1 cable to test this, I just want to know how the pins are organised when cable is properly seated on them (R-L logo facing away from your head).
I am certain that RT1 has this kind of setup with pins but I can't properly tell which side has minus towards front and which one has plus - it sounds awfully similar when both drivers are out of phase compared to proper phasing. This is why I hate 2pin cables, information about polarity is impossible to find... MMCX is so much better in this regard.

There are tests on this website - http://www.audiocheck.net/soundtests_headphones.php - for wiring, to check Left, Right, Center (in-phase), & Twisted (out of phase).

 

[Otto Motor]

I just applied the coupon and went for the KZ ZSR...thanks...CAD $21.68 plus fast shipping...now you poor guys have to deal with my comments on its sound.

 

[stryed]

I just applied the coupon and went for the KZ ZSR...thanks...CAD $21.68 plus fast shipping...now you poor guys have to deal with my comments on its sound.

I'd start right now and say that having "left" & "right" in gigantic is a pretty unimaginative design. There are better ways to do that!

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Z5000 vs Tennmak Pro? Cons pros on both of someone can compare them. Z5000 is much more expensive but as much better?

When i will be home tommorow I will give it a try and compare them....comfort wise the Pro win, as well as for sound isolation, but not sure about the rest, from what I remember Pro are darker and less engaging. Will see will see!

Edit: Just playing with EQ to see how Z5000 response and its again quite impressive, as said, bass is really prononced so for some it can be a drawback, good news is that EQ can play with it quite well and my test was to lower the 60kz sub bass of 1DB and it give more air to whole sound, after I put 1db more at 6khz and treble was even more ''wholy-sparkly''...anyway, right now I use the Faudio FA1 DAP that even if sound excellent lack in dynamic with certain music encoding wich can make feel the sound too digitaly detailed and I suspect the supposed ''non-Eq'' sound option call HIFI being a little tweaked too, especially in bass region...anyway, im not finish to play with EQ with Z5000 just for fun even if its not my style and I like it with EQ but with nice pairing DAP too. Z5000 really love neutral and clean audio source, like Ibasso DX90.

 

[Otto Motor]

I'd start right now and say that having "left" & "right" in gigantic is a pretty unimaginative design. There are better ways to do that!

Also strange: it has 3 BA drivers and 1 dynamic driverNyp [correction: 2 BA drivers and 1 dynamic driver; thanks Nymphonomaniac], looks nondescript, and is substantially cheaper than their other 4 driver model, the ZS6.

I fear for the worst.

The ZSR was announced in early November and, as it looks, no unit has ever been shipped and therefore no reviews exist.

 

[RvTrav]

I need someone who has Auglamour RT-1 to confirm something. I've been looking for cables and found potential polarity issues. There are some angled 2pin cables on ali advertised for KZ lineup as well as RT-1, however, I think that KZ and Auglmour use different polarity with pins... Here is the link I am talking about.

KZ does this: ground is always towards front, and signal is towards the back. However, I think that Auglamour RT-1 uses this on the right side while the left side has plus signal towards the front and minus ground towards the back. I don't have original RT-1 cable to test this, I just want to know how the pins are organised when cable is properly seated on them (R-L logo facing away from your head).
I am certain that RT1 has this kind of setup with pins but I can't properly tell which side has minus towards front and which one has plus - it sounds awfully similar when both drivers are out of phase compared to proper phasing. This is why I hate 2pin cables, information about polarity is impossible to find... MMCX is so much better in this regard.

I have the RT-1 with the original cable, I have the TRN silver up-grade cable and I have the Silver KZ up-grade cable for the ZST. I just tested all these with the RT-1 and I couldn't notice any difference in the sound. The original cable didn't work for me because it was so springy that every time I moved I lost the seal in my left ear. The TRN cable is very nice and has formed ear guides without a wire. For some reason I continued having an issue with the seal in my left ear. I saw Auglamour's new F100 which looks to be the same shape without a removable cable and it shows it being worn cable down. The KZ cable I have is one of the originals that didn't have the wire ear guides and I had trimmed it down to work with the KZ ZS. What I found worked really well for me was using this KZ cable switching the Left and Right earphones and wearing them cable down. This provided me with a better fit in my left ear so that I didn't have to keep repositioning to keep the seal. I might be wrong and if so I'm sure I will be corrected but I don't think the +/- matters as long as it is the same for both earphones. They are either in phase (both the same) or out of phase (one is different than the other).

 

[waveriderhawaii]

This is only for the MH1 with green Sony logo on the back - had a strange mic that isn't friendly. MH1c is a revision that is only white/black on the back without green Sony logo - tried them and they work on modern Androids without issues. Bought a pair for 10$ locally, wanted to recable them but gave them to my brother who actually loves the cable (go figure.....). They sound amazing and full, absolutely amazing. Problem is availability because they aren't in production anymore.

Thanks brah. I bought a pair of them some years ago. I had the weird ones (I guess they had the green logo, I really don't remember). I used to just listen to them in my room plugged into a Vmoda cable which did the trick. One day I plugged them into my Fiio X3 and it turned the X3 off. Never had that happen before so I through the MH1's away. I didn't wanna chance them blowing up the X3.

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Also strange: it has 3 BA drivers and 1 dynamic driver, looks nondescript, and is substantially cheaper than their other 4 driver model, the ZS6.

I fear for the worst.

The ZSR was announced in early November and, as it looks, no unit has ever been shipped and therefore no reviews exist.

Isn't the ZSR suppose to be a 1D+2BA iem?