Bada PH12 vis-a-vis Meixing MC66AE and Lehmann BC
Jul 15, 2006 at 10:29 PM Post #76 of 531
I am going to chime in here for a change.

For those of you that keeps talking S**t about Bada when you have never heard it please stop!

We all have different ears and hear differently. I have almost exactly the same setup as drarthurwells. Sa5k is my favourite headphone of all the headphones I have owned or heard. And Bada ph-12 with the RIGHT TUBES (right tubes being the ones that suit YOUR taste) driving Sa5k's is one of the best sound I have ever heard, out of a headphone, on audiophile recordings. On low bitrate mp3's or not so well recorded cd's the combo sounds like crap. It really is a case of crap in -> crap out.

If you want to question my hearing let me tell you a little about my music journey. I have been playing violin since 5 years old. I could have turned professionally at 11 but decided against it. I have been into 2 channel stereo since the early 90's. I have heard countless 2 channel high end systems and been to numerous audio shows hearing $200k+ highend setups. I personally have a $4k 2 channel setup that to my ears sounds better than 80% of the $20k setups in audio shows. I value accuracy over any euphonic distortion.

I mostly attend classical concerts or chamber music or live jazz clubs so I have good confidence in saying I know what the 'correct' timbre should sound like.

As far as headphone goes I have had a Grado SR60 and a headroom little amp since the early 90's and never felt the need to upgrade for ~10 years!!!
I have also heard Mikail's highend amps driving Rs1 (I am also a Grado fan) or HD650 and I am NOT that impressed, although to be fair they were in meet conditions.

And yes, the Bada Ph12 doesn't do Grado's. But with the Sa5k it really is the best synergy I have ever heard, and that makes it a top headphone amp, for the Sa5k.

for chesebert, your xcanv3 is one decision away from being made in china. dont you know a lot of musical fidelity stuff is made in china? do you really think there is going to be any difference between the same amp , one made in uk and one made in china?
rolleyes.gif


I'll have to agree with drarthurwell's opinion that aerius is giving people mis information on this. aeruis listened to the bada with rs-1 and akg.
First of all, Bada ph12 does not do grado's. Second, I don't care for the akg sound, so what ever listening impressions he has there doesn't apply to me. Just the same as aerius (and many others) doesn't care for the sa5k sound and whatever I say about how good the sa5k sounds thru Bada ph12 doesn't apply to them. To say that Bada Ph12 is universally good or bad is both wrong.
 
Jul 16, 2006 at 1:24 AM Post #77 of 531
That was what struck me, the richdom of timbre and body. When i listen to the bada i think to myself, yes, that is how real instruments really sound.

In general, i think we can say that the bada ph12 does well with high impedance headphones like the hd650, the SA 5k's and the akg 701. Quote:

Originally Posted by rocktboy
I am going to chime in here for a change.

For those of you that keeps talking S**t about Bada when you have never heard it please stop!

We all have different ears and hear differently. I have almost exactly the same setup as drarthurwells. Sa5k is my favourite headphone of all the headphones I have owned or heard. And Bada ph-12 with the RIGHT TUBES (right tubes being the ones that suit YOUR taste) driving Sa5k's is one of the best sound I have ever heard, out of a headphone, on audiophile recordings. On low bitrate mp3's or not so well recorded cd's the combo sounds like crap. It really is a case of crap in -> crap out.

If you want to question my hearing let me tell you a little about my music journey. I have been playing violin since 5 years old. I could have turned professionally at 11 but decided against it. I have been into 2 channel stereo since the early 90's. I have heard countless 2 channel high end systems and been to numerous audio shows hearing $200k+ highend setups. I personally have a $4k 2 channel setup that to my ears sounds better than 80% of the $20k setups in audio shows. I value accuracy over any euphonic distortion.

I mostly attend classical concerts or chamber music or live jazz clubs so I have good confidence in saying I know what the 'correct' timbre should sound like.

As far as headphone goes I have had a Grado SR60 and a headroom little amp since the early 90's and never felt the need to upgrade for ~10 years!!!
I have also heard Mikail's highend amps driving Rs1 (I am also a Grado fan) or HD650 and I am NOT that impressed, although to be fair they were in meet conditions.

And yes, the Bada Ph12 doesn't do Grado's. But with the Sa5k it really is the best synergy I have ever heard, and that makes it a top headphone amp, for the Sa5k.

for chesebert, your xcanv3 is one decision away from being made in china. dont you know a lot of musical fidelity stuff is made in china? do you really think there is going to be any difference between the same amp , one made in uk and one made in china?
rolleyes.gif


I'll have to agree with drarthurwell's opinion that aerius is giving people mis information on this. aeruis listened to the bada with rs-1 and akg.
First of all, Bada ph12 does not do grado's. Second, I don't care for the akg sound, so what ever listening impressions he has there doesn't apply to me. Just the same as aerius (and many others) doesn't care for the sa5k sound and whatever I say about how good the sa5k sounds thru Bada ph12 doesn't apply to them. To say that Bada Ph12 is universally good or bad is both wrong.



 
Jul 16, 2006 at 1:41 AM Post #78 of 531
Quote:

Originally Posted by tourmaline
In general, i think we can say that the bada ph12 does well with high impedance headphones like the hd650, the SA 5k's and the akg 701.


The SA5000 is only 70 ohms iirc
 
Jul 16, 2006 at 2:02 AM Post #79 of 531
Quote:

Originally Posted by Svperstar
The SA5000 is only 70 ohms iirc


Yes, The Bada does well with 40 ohm nominal impedance headphones or better. When you get down to 32 ohms or lower - low impedance headphones - you notice some slight tone coloration (some people may like it). This is true of many other headphone amps.
 
Jul 16, 2006 at 9:34 PM Post #81 of 531
Quote:

Originally Posted by tourmaline
For some 70 ohms is allready high impedance.LOL. Grado is 32 ohms.
blink.gif



I always considered the 300 ohm Senns and 600 ohm AKGs high and anything under 100 ohms low
 
Aug 10, 2006 at 5:32 AM Post #82 of 531
Advice for Bada PH 12 owners:

Must not take out tubes until the amp has been turned off for some time - removing tubes when some residual power is in the amp can weaken the mosfets. I turn off and wait 12 hours or more before removing tubes to change them. I do much tube changing and have blown about 3 mosfets over a year's time by not leaving the amp off long enough before removing tubes. To absolutely insure no damage to mosfets: Only take out tubes (in changing them) when the amp has been off overnight - do tube changes only once a day at the most, and do so only just before you go to turn it on for the first time that day. The tube has to remain in the circuit until power stored in the circuit dissipates. People who do this never have any trouble.

Insert and remove tubes by holding the base and not the glass part - twisting or pulling on the glass can loosen it from its base. Also, take care in correctly lining up the tube pins when putting in a tube - it is possible to force the tube in when the pins are misaligned (won't get audio out of one or both sides that way). I use a black felt marker and mark the top of the Bada to line up with the guide pin slot, then put tape on the tube base, adjacent to the pin guide, lining up the two when inserting a tube.


The Bada can be used with dozens of 6SN7 tube combos that all sound good - as well as many that don't sound good at all. The dozens that are good are each different from each other - like having dozens of great amps to choose from. Using different tubes, I can configure my Bada to sound like other amps, or to sound best with particular CDs, etc.

Update 4/07: My "Gold Standard" combos are:

Sylvania WGT with two Chinese Shuguang in back

Electro Harmonix Gold with two Chinese in back

RCA GT Black glass (clear glass GT may be as good) with two Raytheon GT T-plates

RCA GT Black glass (clear glass GT may be as good) with two Sylvania W

Electro Harmonix Gold with two Raytheon GT T-plates

Chinese Shuguang GT in front and two Sylvania GTA or WGTA

Ken Rad GT (staggered plates not parallel plates) with two Chinese Shuguang in back


My favorite combo with the Shugang: Two Shugang 6H8P (6SN7) with one Sylvania WGT (or Electro Harmonix Gold) is a real winning combo in the Bada 12. Detail, sharp 3-D imaging, strong bass, transparency, and nice natural timbre.

Individual preferences dictate which combo is best and some of the other combos below may be best to some.


The Electro Harmonix 6SN7 GT Gold (only the Gold) is most similar to the Sylvania W GT in sound. Either one makes a good input tube when used with two Raytheon VT 231 (or GT) as outputs - one of my favorite tube combos. Now, the Raytheon come with either T black plates or flat black plates, and sound different. The Raytheon GT with flat plates is smooth with lovely timbre, and has softer edges and a more forgiving sound than the T plates. However, the T plates is a sharper and highly resolving sound that shines if used with the best sources and headphones - those who like the Raptor would really love this sound (not as lean as the Raptor with a fuller tone body). However, if you use a Sylvania W used instead of the Sylvania W GT as input, with the Raytheon GTs still as outputs, there is a shift more to the rich-tone-body/soft-tone-edge of the spectrum (away from the lean tone/sharp edge side), which lends a soft liquidity with reduced tone image (instrument) separation. Some may like this but many will find it is too euphonic, as I do.


When I want a high resolution sound that separates instruments and reveals inner detail in complex orchestration, and has strong bass, I use the EH Gold with two Raytheon VT231 (or plain GT) with black T plates. When I want a softer and smoother sound with some more tone richness then I use other combos.

Tbonner1 alerted me to using the Chinese Shuguang GT (variously designated as a 6N8C or a 6SN7) in front and two Ken Rad GT or VT231 (staggered plates only). This combo is a real winner - one of the very best for sure. Detailed, high resolution, with strong bass (too much bass with the HD650 though) and natural (but lean, like solid state) timbre - to overcome the leanness use two Sylvania WGT with the Chinese Shuguang GT - one of my favorites. I have been getting good results from the lowly GTB tubes. I used two Sylvania GTB as outputs - these are silmilar to Ken Rad in being mellow and slightly rich in tone - and I used a Japanese GTB (hard to find - two are Hit Ray and the other two are Signet - both brands look the same and likely made by Matsu****a) as the input tube. I was very pleased - open, detailed, sharp images, like the Shuguang and Ken Wood combo but without the touch of harshness, and not as lean - however the bass was not quite as strong. I used an Ensign GTB (God knows who makes it - think it is European) as the input with the two Sylvania GTBs and this is also quite good - slightly richer than above. GTBs can be good (from Sylvania, Tung Sol, Raytheon, and Japanese and European brands) and are inexpensive.

Another really great combo uses a Sylvania GT or VT231 with T plates and two Raytheon 5692 brown base.

Now, if you use the Sylvania W as input with two GE GTA or two Ken Rad VT -231 (or GTs) as outputs, you get a nice balance between rich tone/soft edge and lean tone/sharp edge. However, the Sylvania W and two Ken Rads have richer and fuller (and more liquid) tones with stronger bass but softer tone edges (lower resolution that is good for poorly recorded CDS), while the W and two GE GTAs are higher resolution with sharper tone images and better 3-D imaging, will being slightly less rich, liquid and full. I much prefer the latter with good recordings but prefer the former with many older recordings. However, if you use the Sylvania W GT here instead of the W (as the single input) - with the two GE GTAs or two Ken Rad GTs - you shift decidedly back to a rich tone/soft edge and it is too euphonic. However, a great compromise between the two above combos is to use one Sylvania W with two Sylvania JAN CHS GT with triangle black plates (or two Sylvania VT231 GT with T black plates for slightly more detail) - could be the best for you.

Now, take two Sylvania W as the output tubes, with one Raytheon VT231 (or GT) as the input tube and you have detail but it is too lean. So use a RCA VT 231 (or GT) as input and the same two Sylvania W tubes as outputs and you get one of the very best overall with most CDs - combines detail, sharply defined tone images focused in empty space, transparency, and a naturally rich timbre. Sub a Tung Sol GT "mouse ears" for the RCA VT 231 here, keeping the two Sylvania W, and you get another excellent combo.

Another neutral balance combo is to use the Sylvania W GT with two Tung Sol GT White Label gray plates (not the mouse ears) instead of the Raytheons. To shift really further to a lean tone body/sharp tone edge, use the Sylvania 6SN7W GT as input with the harsh and hard sounding Shuguang 6N8P (sometimes labeled 6SN7 GT and Made in China) as output tubes. A lean but very sharp imaging and detailed sound. However, this combo can still be edgy and harsh at times, because of the Chinese tubes used.

It is the combo that is perhaps more important than the tubes used, and it best to use different tube types as input and output tubes rather than the same type in all positions (but use the same in all input positions and then the same in all output positions but different between the inputs and outputs - very simple: different but the same). The Tung Sol Round Plate GT and Sylvania W are perhaps the two best 6SN7 tubes ever (the RCA VT231 and GT black glass rank here also), but I can configure them with certain tubes to get a very bad sound. Also, if I use Sylvania Ws (or any other tube) in all positions of input and output, the sound suffers over other combos.

Other good combos using old tubes from the 40s and 50s, not in order of best sound, any one of these could be the absolute best for you, and the bad combos are not discusssed:

1. Ken Rad VT-231 (or plain GT) as input and two RCA VT-231 (or plain GT) as outputs. Raytheon VT-231 or GT works well here instead of the Ken Rad. One Tung Sol GT Black Glass round plates with two RCA CRC GT (or RCA VT-231 or RCA GT) is a variant here that would be the very best for many.

2a. Raytheon WGT or Sylvania VT-231 (or plain GT, or GE USA GT) as input and 2 RCA VT-231 (or plain GT) as the output tubes - a great all around combo that I like very much and that some would regard as the best. 2b. If you use the Sylvania GTA (instead of the GT) as the input tube, keeping with the RCA GTs as outputs, you add slightly more tone edge sharpness and slightly less tone body, and some may like this. Using one Sylvania GT as input with two RCA GT as outputs provides the best bang for the bucks, and is close to the more expensive combos. The Sylvania VT231, CHS and GT comes with either black triangle plates (softer, smoother) or black T plates (more detail and resolution) - select on this basis.

3a. Sub the Tung Sol GT white label gray plate for the Sylvania above (as input) and keeping 2 RCA VT-231 (or plain GT) as the output tubes, adds more transient bite and sharper imaging with slightly less liquidity and tone body richness, for a very realistic sound.
3b. Also, I have a Tung Sol GT black plate (with a small dual rectangular plate extension that protrudes above the top mica - very unusual) that is too euphonic with the two RCA GTs, 3c. but is better (some slight sibilance at rare times) with two RCA GTAs.
3d. Now, take this same unusual Tung sol GT black plate and use it with two Sylvania VT-231 and you get enough improvement to make this one of the best combos. It is the combo that is as important as the tubes used. 3e. I have a tall bottle black plate Tung Sol GTB that also sounds good with the Sylvania VT-231s - the GTB sounds like the Tung Sol GT and may in fact be a GT mislabeled as a GTB (happened some with Tung Sol tubes).

4. Ken Rad VT-231 (or plain GT) as input and GE GTA as the output tubes - detailed treble, great midrange clarity and 3-D tone imaging with a nice natural timbre and tone body, makes this combo the best for some people.

5. Electro Harmonix Gold GT as input with two GE GTA as outputs. Adds some tone body richness/fullness compared to the above combo - a little more life, excitement, etc. An inexpensive tube set up that sounds quite good.

6. Tung Sol GT "mouse ears" black plate as input and two GE GTA as outputs. A little better treble timbral nuance and contrast than the above makes this a contender for the very best. Has a real nice timbre with a pristine quality. Also try two Tung Sol GT mouse ears with one RCA VT 231 or GT black plate - ranks with the best.

7. Tung Sol GT "mouse ears" black plate as input and two Sylvania VT-231 or GTs as outputs. A little more refined sound than #6 above but at the expense of slightly less timbral contrast. Some will prefer this. Tung Sols go well with the Sylvania Vt-231/GT with the exception of the mouse ears - don't have a round plate yet.

8. CBS GT or GE Canada GT as the single input tube, and 2 RCA GT VT-231 (or plain GT) as the output tubes. Solid realistic sound - leaner tone than number 2 above.

9. RCA VT-231 (or GT) as the input tube and 2 Raytheon VT-231 (or GT) as the output tubes. Another solid combo.

10. Raytheon GT VT-231 (or plain GT) as the input tube and two Sylvania or RCA VT-231 (or GT) as the output tubes.

11. Sylvania W GT (not W and not GT and not VT-231) as input and two Sylvania GTA (not GT, VT-231 or GTB)
 
Aug 11, 2006 at 2:06 AM Post #83 of 531
Quote:

so use a RCA VT 231 (or GT) as input and the same two Sylvania W tubes and you get perhaps the very best - combines detail, sharply defined tone images focused in empty space, transparency, and a naturally rich timbre - pure magic.



Don't forget the best controlled and detailed low end as well.
wink.gif


The sylvania w tubes are something special, not cheap though. Be warned!
 
Aug 25, 2006 at 9:02 PM Post #84 of 531
Hi all, this is my first post
I come from a DIY valve (tubes) forum and I've read right through this thread with great interest. I have a WAD Mk1 valve h/amp. It uses the great little ECL83 valve x 2. It has only (2) caps in the signal path. I have changed the stock item for Dynamicaps, these are really clean open caps, with great definition but I think I wll revert to my favourites - PIOs. I've also changed out most of the PSU caps for Elna Silmics - I refuse to pay the silly prices for Black Gates. Also I have shunted the pot.

May I make a suggestion drarthurwells - I don't know the layout of the Bada PH12 but how many caps (if any) are in the signal path? You obviously like the SA5K phones, why not think about changing the relevant caps for PIOs. I feel sure that using PIOs may well eliminate that 'edge' you have mentioned, using these phones with the Bada.

Shunting the potentiometer - this is so simple and such an effective mod that it has to be heard to be believed. Just the same as valve or tube rolling will definately change the sound of an amp, well, so does this. I have used Tantalums on the Alps but may well try some others, especially carbon types. Others have used expensive Vishays but then found there was a bit of a hard 'sheen'.

To tell the truth, I'm really not sure about the Alps pots. I used to use Panasonics but they are no longer available. There is a German co. Thel Audio who have introduced (2) new ranges of pots., the cheaper of the two ranges looks very interesting about E30 I think. The Pan. pots were/are very clear, better to have that clarity at the input and change by using caps to suit your individual taste.

I think that I am going to try one of these Bada PH12s. I have to use a h/amp because of where I live now for two reasons, renting an apartment in Granada province, Andalucia - it is just too damned hot, average temp. 83F inside the badly built apartments (in Spain they are all C.R.A.P) and using valve power amps is just going to shorten their lives - and anyway, how can you listen to music with huge floorstanding fans. Also there simply is no sound insulation, so at night even without the heat I have good neighbours to consider.

Drartherwells - where are the best US suppliers to check out for your rec. tubes and also where should I look to replace the cables for my Senn. 600 phones at a reasonable price. Can I also re-use the little gold plated can connectors, even though they are built in to moulded plugs. I find the sound of Senns. a bit 'hifi' so I would like to repair them ( a broken cable) and sell on, then look to buy some AKGs' or Sonys.

Thanks in advance for any info on the above.
 
Aug 26, 2006 at 8:28 AM Post #85 of 531
Black Stuart: May I make a suggestion drarthurwells - I don't know the layout of the Bada PH12 but how many caps (if any) are in the signal path?

Art: See the picture on page 3 of this thread.

Black Stuart: You obviously like the SA5K phones, why not think about changing the relevant caps for PIOs. I feel sure that using PIOs may well eliminate that 'edge' you have mentioned, using these phones with the Bada.

Art: Yes, the Solen caps of the Bada could be improved with a bypass or replacement. I prefer the K701 - a great match with the Bada - to either the HD650 or the SA5000.

Black Stuart: Shunting the potentiometer - this is so simple and such an effective mod that it has to be heard to be believed. Just the same as valve or tube rolling will definately change the sound of an amp, well, so does this. I have used Tantalums on the Alps but may well try some others, especially carbon types. Others have used expensive Vishays but then found there was a bit of a hard 'sheen'.

Art: Sounds like a great mod.

Black stuart: I think that I am going to try one of these Bada PH12s. I have to use a h/amp because of where I live now for two reasons, renting an apartment in Granada province, Andalucia - it is just too damned hot, average temp. 83F inside the badly built apartments (in Spain they are all C.R.A.P) and using valve power amps is just going to shorten their lives - and anyway, how can you listen to music with huge floorstanding fans. Also there simply is no sound insulation, so at night even without the heat I have good neighbours to consider.

Bada runs hot with 3 6SN7 tubes and class A operation - it has an internal fan that cuts on at times (except in the winter in a real cool room).

Black Stuart: Where are the best US suppliers to check out for your rec. tubes.

Art: I have hundreds of tubes at low prices - overseas shipment is usually only about $6 USD. You can get RCA, Sylvania or Tung Sol GTs rebranded as Motorola, Silvertone, Zenith, Philco, etc. and they are cheap (about $7) but as good as the name brands - just stick with GT types in 6SN7s. I recently got a like new National 5692 that is the same as the very expensive RCA 5692 (which some said were all made by GE regardless of the brand name on the tube).

Black Stuart: Where should I look to replace the cables for my Senn. 600 phones at a reasonable price. Can I also re-use the little gold plated can connectors, even though they are built in to moulded plugs. I find the sound of Senns. a bit 'hifi' so I would like to repair them ( a broken cable) and sell on, then look to buy some AKGs' or Sonys.

Art: Others can advise you here - start a new thread "Best Senn. 600 Cable Replacement Source?" By all means dump the Sennys and get K701s but be sure this makes your amp happy first - some people have amps that drive Sennys better than the K701 (which is a good reason to change amps).
 
Aug 26, 2006 at 2:36 PM Post #86 of 531
"...get K701s but be sure this makes your amp happy first - some people have amps that drive Sennys better than the K701 (which is a good reason to change amps)."

This is very insightful. I find most headphones in the AKG K701 class to be hyper sensitive to amp/source changes.

I also have found that amp changes seem to make a large difference in the sound of the Sennys, perhaps a bit more than other high end headphones.

Just got a Ming Da 66, a well made amp with three transformers. It has an impedence switch for 32,300 and 600 ohm. This adjustment seems to change the output level while leaving the frequency response of the amp surprisingly similar on each setting. This amp is quiet on the Senn 650's with very powerful bass.

Gee...I love this thread with highly evolved advice regarding the Bada and tube rolling.

Any advice on tube rolling for the Ming Da 66?
 
Aug 26, 2006 at 8:35 PM Post #87 of 531
Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonner1
"...get K701s but be sure this makes your amp happy first - some people have amps that drive Sennys better than the K701 (which is a good reason to change amps)."

This is very insightful. I find most headphones in the AKG K701 class to be hyper sensitive to amp/source changes.

I also have found that amp changes seem to make a large difference in the sound of the Sennys, perhaps a bit more than other high end headphones.

Just got a Ming Da 66, a well made amp with three transformers. It has an impedence switch for 32,300 and 600 ohm. This adjustment seems to change the output level while leaving the frequency response of the amp surprisingly similar on each setting. This amp is quiet on the Senn 650's with very powerful bass.

Gee...I love this thread with highly evolved advice regarding the Bada and tube rolling.

Any advice on tube rolling for the Ming Da 66?



From what I heard, the Ming 66 is very limited in regards to amp rolling..
 
Aug 26, 2006 at 9:46 PM Post #88 of 531
The preamp (input) tube is a 12ax7, so there are many options. From what I have read, the input tube is generally the one that makes a noticable sonic difference, anyway. You have many options w/the 12ax7, as it's a common tube. If you got yours from Cattylink, their export version already is upgrated w/an Electro Harmonix Gold Pin, which is a pretty nice tube. I switched to this tube, as mine didn't come w/the EH; it made a nice/noticable difference. I haven't tried other tubes, so I couldn't comment on other brands (I have been happy w/the EH). This amp may not be as sensitive to tube rolling, as other amps, from a sonic sense, so you would have to try it out.

The 2 power tubes are "Russian" 6n6/6h6 tubes (don't get these confused w/the wrong ones). These are 9pin tubes, which aren't that common in the US. I have a link what should be the correct tube, here (there is a link to the specs, as well):

http://thetubestore.com/ru-6h6p.html

The power tubes can be found on eBay, at times, for relatively inexpensive; however, I can't vouch for their quality. I actually have some Electro Harmonix 6h6 tubes on order, which I have only seen on one site; they have to be manufactured and aren't cheap. I will let you know what I think, once I am able to try them out.

Good luck!
 
Aug 27, 2006 at 6:20 PM Post #89 of 531
Hi Art,
I first looked at this thread some months ago so forgot about the photo of the layout on page 3.

First things first - heat, especially excessive heat is bad news for amps and speakers coils. I just don't understand why manufacturers don't deal with this in the case of amps.

Bada is no exception. OK they put the signal valves on the top plate, that's a positive but why such a shallow chassis. Double the depth of the chassis, perforate the top plate and the bottom plate and you will create a natural convection current. It's certainly possible to do a DIY perforation of the bottom plate and if your careful of the top plate as well - if you can keep the temperature of components down you will extend the life of components considerably and well within their operational parameters you will get a better sound.

The PCB looks to be a quality job but as always, it's harder to dissipate heat when a PCB is used. Just drilling it CAREFULLY in the right places will help with heat dissipation. I have to post a DISCLAIMER here - I don't want some SOAB lawyer trying to sue me - if you attempt any of the above it is at your own risk.

Art, I see that Bada has used some meaty heatsinks BUT do they touch the chassis? this is a good way to dissipate more heat.

I have to applaud Bada on the wattage of the resistors they have used and in critical places they have used tight tolerance ones - bravo.

Unless I am reading the visuals wrong - to shunt the pot, you only need to desolder the incoming signal wires (I would imagine at least double shielded as they traverse the PCB) to access the pos. and earth wires desolder from PCB, solder up your chosen resistors to the wires and PCB. It looks like they would be better routed over the incoming signal wires. If you don't like this mod it's easy to re-instate the original configuration. If the pot is a 50K log. use 47K Rs.

Now if I can get Cattylink to respond I shall buy a Bada PH12. this h/amp is in may ways similar to the ultimate headwize h/amp - Andreas is a very good designer.

Personally, until I have heard the Bada for some time, I would'nt dream of trying any mods and remember - only one mod at a time, otherwise you lose your reference points and you wont know which mod did what, frustrating but I learned the hard way (don't we all).

Stuart
 
Sep 6, 2006 at 11:01 PM Post #90 of 531
You are spot on about heat dissipation.

The Bada's internal fan cuts on after 50 minutes or so - depends on the room temperature.

I drilled some 5 MM diameter holes along the front edge of the bottom plate. I also tilt the rear of the amp about 35 MM or more higher than the front (put a piece of wood under the rear feet). This allows air to enter from the front of the bottom and exit from the elevated rear vents.
 

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