[Currawong]

PP: If your Ref 1 has the original digital board, the digital signal wires going to the DAC boards were labelled wrong and thus the wires were swapped when they were built. With the new boards, the wires can be re-attached as per the labelling. You've probably struck the same issue as I did. I soldered the wires back exactly as they had been before (with two swapped) and got no sound as well, until I sent Kingwa a photo showing him what I'd done.

By the way, the "This amp is more neutral" discussion is bulldust unless someone RMAAs the amps with a neutral source.

 

[Currawong]

PP: If your Ref 1 has the original digital board, the digital signal wires going to the DAC boards were labelled wrong and thus the wires were swapped when they were built. With the new boards, the wires can be re-attached as per the labelling. You've probably struck the same issue as I did. I soldered the wires back exactly as they had been before (with two swapped) and got no sound as well, until I sent Kingwa a photo showing him what I'd done.

I'm going to swap the ACSS/CAST/SATRI connectors on my Ref 1 and Phoenix with good mini-XLR sockets by the way.

Before I forget, "This amp is more neutral" discussion is bulldust unless someone RMAAs the amps with a neutral source.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif PP: If your Ref 1 has the original digital board, the digital signal wires going to the DAC boards were labelled wrong and thus the wires were swapped when they were built. With the new boards, the wires can be re-attached as per the labelling. You've probably struck the same issue as I did. I soldered the wires back exactly as they had been before (with two swapped) and got no sound as well, until I sent Kingwa a photo showing him what I'd done. By the way, the "This amp is more neutral" discussion is bulldust unless someone RMAAs the amps with a neutral source.

Could you elaborate on the wiring snafu on the REF1 board. I need to do mine as well as a second one. I guess you're saying the new input boards are wired different and wiring the same as before means two wires will be crossed? I got enough gray hairs without that little surprise!

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif PP: If your Ref 1 has the original digital board, the digital signal wires going to the DAC boards were labelled wrong and thus the wires were swapped when they were built. With the new boards, the wires can be re-attached as per the labelling. You've probably struck the same issue as I did. I soldered the wires back exactly as they had been before (with two swapped) and got no sound as well, until I sent Kingwa a photo showing him what I'd done. I'm going to swap the ACSS/CAST/SATRI connectors on my Ref 1 and Phoenix with good mini-XLR sockets by the way. Before I forget, "This amp is more neutral" discussion is bulldust unless someone RMAAs the amps with a neutral source.

Hi Curra,

Could you send me pic of your wiring (and what was mixed up) via email. Now you've got my attention since I've been pulling out my hair trying to figure what the fook is going on here. Do you remember which pairs were labeled wrong ?

Kingwa did ask me to unsolder M-G and M-5V pads (in his latest email about 35 minutes ago). Does that ring a bell ?

The pad order on the new digital board and L/R dac boards is as follows

BC
WC
DA
GND
M-G
M-5

Old digital board is exactly the same labelling/spots.

BC
WC
DA
GND
M-G
M-5

with both dac boards setup like this.

GND
BC
WC
DA
M-G
M-5



I followed the wiring of the original digital board to those pads on the L/R channel boards (copying them exactly) and maybe that was the mistake ?

Here is a pic of the wiring in that spot (new board following the old board wiring scheme)



That's a good idea WRT the mini-xlrs replacing the ACSS/DC jacks, it should ease making up DIY recipe cables for those spots

Peete.

 

[punk_guy182]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Could you send me pic of your wiring (and what was mixed up) via email.

I think it would be a good idea to have the picture posted on the forum.
This whole rewiring thing has gotten me curious.

 

[sandchak]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif PP: If your Ref 1 has the original digital board, the digital signal wires going to the DAC boards were labelled wrong and thus the wires were swapped when they were built. With the new boards, the wires can be re-attached as per the labelling. You've probably struck the same issue as I did. I soldered the wires back exactly as they had been before (with two swapped) and got no sound as well, until I sent Kingwa a photo showing him what I'd done. By the way, the "This amp is more neutral" discussion is bulldust unless someone RMAAs the amps with a neutral source.

Hi Curra, I have the RE1 with the new board, does it mean I have to do some rewiring too??..

Hi Peete, How is your health keeping?? I wish you complete and absolute recovery soon !!

EDIT. I just got a reply from Kingwa - he says the issue was with REF1 with old board: Quote:

the old board output signal to analogy board has two wires invert. In new board, all is right.

 

[Currawong]

Maybe only 3 or 4 people got the original board - those of us who had the issue with 24/96. In mine originally, BC and WC were swapped. With the new board, they aren't swapped. That photo looks correct from my memory of the internals.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandchak /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi Curra, I have the RE1 with the new board, does it mean I have to do some rewiring too??.. Hi Peete, How is your health keeping?? I wish you complete and absolute recovery soon !! EDIT. I just got a reply from Kingwa - he says the issue was with REF1 with old board:

Hi Sandchak,

Kingwa sent another pic of headers to measure V across with a CD playing and with it stopped so I'm about to take those measurements now.

Thanks for the health wishes Sandchak ! I hope your audio room is shaping up to your satisfaction

Curra, that is interesting. If the old wiring pattern had the BC/WC pads swapped then wouldn't the same pattern have an inverse effect with the new board ? The labeling between the old board and new one (mine at least) is identical. Does that make any sense to you ?

I just took the readings that Kingwa requested but I will wait until he replies before posting anything more on the subject.

Peete.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi Sandchak, Kingwa sent another pic of headers to measure V across with a CD playing and with it stopped so I'm about to take those measurements now. Thanks for the health wishes Sandchak ! I hope your audio room is shaping up to your satisfaction Curra, that is interesting. If the old wiring pattern had the BC/WC pads swapped then wouldn't the same pattern have an inverse effect with the new board ? The labeling between the old board and new one (mine at least) is identical. Does that make any sense to you ? I just took the readings that Kingwa requested but I will wait until he replies before posting anything more on the subject. Peete.

The way I understood him was that the wiring was crossed on the first erroneous set. So that WC would have been wired to BC. Now the Fix is to drop the New Board in and wire WC to WC, etc. Is that not correct?

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by les_garten /img/forum/go_quote.gif The way I understood him was that the wiring was crossed on the first erroneous set. So that WC would have been wired to BC. Now the Fix is to drop the New Board in and wire WC to WC, etc. Is that not correct?

I would think so Les. Maybe it just my frazzled noodle that is having a hard time ingesting the obvious (or the simple)

The other meter readings that Kingwa asked me to provide may have revealed a problem but I can't comment on it until he has had a chance to analyze that info.

Peete.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif I would think so Les. Maybe it just my frazzled noodle that is having a hard time ingesting the obvious (or the simple) The other meter readings that Kingwa asked me to provide may have revealed a problem but I can't comment on it until he has had a chance to analyze that info. Peete.

I looked over A-GDs PIX which are the original board and you just can't quite get the right angles to see for sure. Did you confirm BC was to BC before desoldering?

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by les_garten /img/forum/go_quote.gif I looked over A-GDs PIX which are the original board and you just can't quite get the right angles to see for sure. Did you confirm BC was to BC before desoldering?

I copied the wiring pattern of that section with the aluminum dividers removed first (made a nice drawing of it) before taking out the original board and used that very same pattern for the new board which Kingwa has seen. There was no change in jumper positions between the old board and the new one which is what is messing with my head ATM

It's rather odd to say the least.

Peete.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif I copied the wiring pattern of that section with the aluminum dividers removed first (made a nice drawing of it) before taking out the original board and used that very same pattern for the new board which Kingwa has seen. There was no change in jumper positions between the old board and the new one which is what is messing with my head ATM It's rather odd to say the least. Peete.

Sumthin' doesn't add up.

 

[IPodPJ]

Sorry about the problems you're having with your RE1, Peete.

In other news, as you know I am building a B22. I want to make sure the RE1 sounds good with it and so I am going to make sure it does. The first step will be trying out a passive I/V solution: we are going to make an ACSS to XLR cable with the passive I/V resistor network incorporated into the cable. Nude vishays will be used.

Assuming the passive solution works, the resistors will be permanently installed in the Beta22 for a current input. The advantage of this over using the XLR out on the RE1 is that there will be no 0db buffer, and I can through trial and error find the best resistors for the job.

If the passive solution is not cutting it, I will go active. Since there is no room inside the RE1 to do this, and since I don't want to put it in the Beta chassis, in a separate chassis I will install a Twisted Pear Ivy (assuming it will work properly, and I can't see why it wouldn't) with power supplies and trafo. The chassis will match the custom ones I'm making for the Beta and Sigmas, but will be lower profile. The ACSS cables will go in, and XLRs will come out.

 

[IPodPJ]

Oh, I also wanted to ask you guys -- would it be possible to tap the RE1 to accept an I2S input? If so, where on the board would this be?