[Pricklely Peete]

 
Quote:

As Usual...
 
Great Googly Moogly!
 
Lot of work there!
 
I was wondering how you were going to do those relays on the bottom.
 

 
 
Thanks Les ! Yeah the relay banks are a bit of a head scratcher right now. I don't want to unsolder all of the wires at one end. Maybe you and some other enterprising DIY types could toss out some ideas/suggestions, that would be a great help and appreciated (by myself) for sure.
 
I have one way in mind already (which is explained below the attached pic).
 
For now though I'm done with anymore DIY work this evening. I have the amp reassembled and back in the ref system and I'm extremely happy the Phoenix is working as it should once again. I had a tense moment or two after the hitting the power switch.
 
Kingwa answered my question really quick, god bless the man. He said the likely culprit was one or both of the 470uf 16V caps. I was more than nervous at power up since I wasn't 100% sure it was just the cap or caps in question. I sure am glad it's working once again (to say the least).
 
Just an FYI to members/lurkers that read this post and the previous one on page 186. This problem only affected the first 10 amps shipped. Any amps made after the initial run of 10 have this problem fixed (with better quality caps).
 
Here's a pic of one for the relay bank's wiring
 
 

 
Better angle of the solid core jumpers
 

 

As you can see +5K  G2 and +5V are solid core jumpers while the other 3 connections are made using the stock Audio-gd stranded SPC. Like I said earlier the plan is to unsolder the 3 solid jumpers from the top of the relay pcb and then lift off each pcb assembly until it clears the top of the solid jumpers, then rotate the boards back 180 degrees.
 
If it comes down to it I will unsolder all connections but I hope that my idea or another members will save some labor and time.
 
EDIT: It occurs to me that the signal must pass through these wires (or at least some of them). I bet it'd be a good idea to swap out the stock stuff for some better quality wire. I have both Legenberg copper and Mundorf silver/gold hook up leftover ....hmmm. I think I'll change it out and get those last 12 caps swapped at the same time. Might as well even if it makes little difference....who knows though it might make a big difference. I certainly won't know unless I try it. I had low expectations for the RE1 MAX mod but the outcome has proven to be quite substantial. Cumulative small changes are just as effective as singular but significant ones in the end. What the hell ....I have the time and the material needed on hand already

The experiment continues..............
 
Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Well I finally completed the Phase 2 MAX mod (all of it) this past Tuesday. The parts swapped were those last 12 caps under the relay banks in the pics above and a swap of some of wring connecting both relay banks to main pcb.
 
I used Nichicon 100uf 25V MUSE KZ for the 12 stock 100uf caps remaining, changed out the solid core jumpers in the pics (of the previous post) for soft annealed solid silver (22 awg 5N's in Teflon tubing) which totaled 6 jumpers in all. I kept the stock SPC for the data signals as it was way too difficult to sub in solid core silver in these spots. I added 4 Roderstein MKP1837 .01uf 160V bypass caps to the 4 large Nichicon FW 4700uf 35V caps I put in a few weeks back. There are two .1uf 63V WIMA caps in series with a 1/2 W resistor (of unknown value on the underside of the main pcb) on the head amp output pads that I may swap for slit foil 1/2w matched pairs (TI most likely) and some PIO/Teflon combo for the .1uf WIMA but that tweak won't be tried until a month or so has passed. The head amp outputs are now as impressive as the preamp function is....that was a nice surprise that I half expected once Phase 2 was completed. The level of improvement I expected ( with the RE1 and the Phoenix initially) is what surprised me though. I did not expect this much of an improvement frankly, but I will gladly take it.
 
The combined tweaks and mods have really elevated the Phoenix and RE1 to new heights of resolution, speed,frequency extension and dynamic punch among other things (that stand out from the getgo). I'm still trying to absorb all of the changes with some further burn in time needed (the BG/Roderstein caps are a little more than half way there) The MAX mods were/are very worthwhile pursuits. There is performance to be had from stock config that is for sure. I;d say it's proof positive and a testament to the topology that it can scale like this with some better parts and some key additions. One other addition I'm contemplating is adding Teflon bypass caps to the BG's on the DSP1 board of the RE1. Might as well since I already have them on hand and I think I can squeeze them in

 
I'm definitely enjoying the entire system. The next and last unit on the MAX mod path is the CD7 transport.
 
After I come back from vacation in a few weeks I'll get busy with the the transport 

 
Peete.

 

[Currawong]

The details of these mods make my head spin. I think until I can build a 'stat amp and be distracted enough from dynamics, I won't be able to consider mods to the Phoenix.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

The details of these mods make my head spin. I think until I can build a 'stat amp and be distracted enough from dynamics, I won't be able to consider mods to the Phoenix.

Once you tackle that stat build this kind of mod should be a snap for you Curra

 
Peete.

 

[Currawong]

Kingwa just got back to me about the Phoenix bias adjustment, for those of you who have been following FauDrei and Tigzstudio's experiments with the Roc and bias settings.  I haven't tried yet, but I guess it's the same as the Roc, that you measure each point against ground, which is any of the chassis screws, then turn the trimpot to get the voltage you want. All 4 must measure the same voltage, allowing for polarity, after adjustment.
 

 

[tim3320070]

Would this also affect the preamp output?

 

[BenBau]

Two months ago my Phoenix broke. A few pages ago I told you about that.
I tried to fix it myself with help of Kingwa, but we did not succeed. I decided to send it in and shipped my Phoenix to China on juli 13.
A week later I received a message form Kingwa; customs did not accept the provided "paperwork". Kingwa and Edwin helped me to create a CHINESE customs invoice. That's a month ago, but my Phoenix is still not released by customs.
I am a big Audio-gd fan (see my sig.), but when it breaks you're in trouble. It really hurts me to warn potential buyers: caveat emptor !

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Two months ago my Phoenix broke. A few pages ago I told you about that.
I tried to fix it myself with help of Kingwa, but we did not succeed. I decided to send it in and shipped my Phoenix to China on juli 13.
A week later I received a message form Kingwa; customs did not accept the provided "paperwork". Kingwa and Edwin helped me to create a CHINESE customs invoice. That's a month ago, but my Phoenix is still not released by customs.
I am a big Audio-gd fan (see my sig.), but when it breaks you're in trouble. It really hurts me to warn potential buyers: caveat emptor !

Sorry to hear you're having problems.  He has not had a "lot" of returns, so there may be a bit of a learning curve here for him as well.  Looks like Customs papers need to be prepared in at least English and Chinese for shipping back to China.

 

[superchan]

Quote:

Two months ago my Phoenix broke. A few pages ago I told you about that.
I tried to fix it myself with help of Kingwa, but we did not succeed. I decided to send it in and shipped my Phoenix to China on juli 13.
A week later I received a message form Kingwa; customs did not accept the provided "paperwork". Kingwa and Edwin helped me to create a CHINESE customs invoice. That's a month ago, but my Phoenix is still not released by customs.
I am a big Audio-gd fan (see my sig.), but when it breaks you're in trouble. It really hurts me to warn potential buyers: caveat emptor !

well this problem can be prevent by buy audio-gd gear by local agents its a little bit expensive. but it spare all the problem with the dammed customs is really a pain in the ash . The paper work must be 100% correct or the made it very difficult for getting it back or lets you pay more fees
 

 

[BenBau]

I'm the only one in my country with a Phoenix according to Kingwa! There are no agents or dealers within hundreds of miles!

 

[superchan]

 
Quote:

I'm the only one in my country with a Phoenix according to Kingwa! There are no agents or dealers within hundreds of miles!

 

[size=x-small]France[/size]  http://www.audiophonics.fr​

[size=x-small]Britain[/size][size=x-small] http://www.ampcity.co.uk [/size]
[size=x-small] Netherlands [/size]www.pacificaudio.nl​

 ​

I mean if you order from in the EU country's there is no custom fees ​

when something is broking choosing those dealers it will handle it easier for repairs.​

 

[BenBau]

I bought my Phoenix almost a year ago. At that time there were no agents.
On the Pacific Audio website, I could only find the Audio-gd DACs.
Kingwa told me a few weeks ago I was the only one with a Phoenix in The Netherlands. He also could have contacted "his" agent and asked him/her to help ....
 
Also, money is never an issue for me. My (spare) time is much more limited.
 
Anyone knows another brand that has a balanced HP amp with pre-amp function?

 

[tim3320070]

Kingwa will fix it I'm sure. It's not like there a million high end headphone amp out there from big names like Sony. Every company has issues occasionally.

 

[BenBau]

I'm getting grumpy. I'm two months now without a proper audio setup (analog from an Asus Xonar STX with LME49720HA opamps). My new C1 Masters are unused and the days are becoming shorter....

 

[haloxt]

I would keep pushing customs and ask Kingwa to push customs too.