[XLR1]

 
Quote:

XLR1: The whole point of balanced is that the common mode noise rejection allows for long cable runs, so it should be no problem.  That's why the huge cable runs you see at concerts are balanced. 

Great!  That is news to me.  Being able to use an extension opens up several balanced large amp possibilities.  Thanks. 

 

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Peete, 
Do you use the remote because you do not sit near the amp?  The Phoenix really appeals to me, but it is so large that I will want to put it with my entertainment center.  (With a smaller balanced amp like the Lake People's V181, I would put it on my end table next to my chair.)  That puts me about 10-12 feet away.  The remote would work well for me, but I am concerned about losing some of the SQ if I add a balanced extension cable?  Do you use an extension cable?
Thanks

I sit pretty far away from it so yes I use the remote 99% of the time. I hardly ever use the Phoenix for a head amp with my current cable length, 7 ft (to the 650's) making such an arrangement somewhat awkward. I hope to roll my own balanced cables in the near future and would like to move my source rack closer to the computer and as a result make the Phoenix/RE1/CD7 truly dual purpose. Unfortunately the sheer amount of balanced cables I would need to build will make this project a not so affordable prospect (even if I DIY them all). However eventually I hope to replace all of the single ended connections between the Phoenix and the amps/crossovers with the balanced Mundorf recipe I came up with for the ACSS lines.
 
My main objection to an extension cable is down to the additional connections such an arrangement would present not to mention that with a headphone cable lengths over 10 ft become cumbersome not to mention tricky WRT inductance/capacitance/resistance issues. An XLR IC has a ground run (pin 1) whereas the headphone runs are minus those conductors (4 wire rather than 6) with the additional issue presented by combing the 4 wires together into one (long run). An ideal solution would be to run those as wholly separate L/R channels (like the TOTL Double Helix HD800 cable)  but long lengths once again would cost a fortune (as would an extension cable). I like 6-8ft as the sweet spot.
 
Peete.

 

[haloxt]

My headphone cables are all around 10-12 feet so I can move around my room and with detachable cables for cable rolling and portable use ^^. When I experimented with SE, shorter lengths were indeed better sound quality, but I haven't tested length effect on SQ with balanced cables.

 

[les_garten]

 
Quote:

I had forgotten about the encoder issues......my mistake t/sound. This kind of repair is the perfect starter project for the budding DIY beginner !!!! Any one of us with the knowledge would be happy to walk you through it if need be.
 
It's funny though mine works just great but I hardly ever use the actual vol knob (which likely explains why it still works just fine) D'uh

. I'll see what I can come up with while Les tracks down the relevant info for the Elna part.
 
Les have a look at these....(not sure they are compatible but might as well post the link) http://www.cui.com/catfeatures.asp?catky=112362&subcatky1=994182&subcatky2=997832
 
Here is another tack entirely...magnetic encoder http://www.renishaw.com/en/magnetic-encoder-modules-offer-non-contact-alternative-to-potentiometers--10832
 
Peete.

 
 
The Magnetic Encoder looks pretty interesting!
 
Here's what I may order, it's an Alpha Encoder.  I sent a RFQ.
 
http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/16mm_encoder_2.html
 
The part number is 3EN/161 2 E 3 D1 24
 
That's a 20mm Knurled/Splined shaft.
 
If you ask KW to send Encoders, he'll send some that look the same, except the shaft is "Flatted".  I don't see how you use the current knob with those.  The knob is splined.

 

[tim3320070]

Not gay but check out the sweet knobs that could work:
http://www.guitarnucleus.com/gnstore/knobs.html#volmetal

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Not gay but check out the sweet knobs that could work:
http://www.guitarnucleus.com/gnstore/knobs.html#volmetal

 
 
I really like the Phoenix knobs though!
 

 

[BenBau]

Could someone please measure the voltages coming out of the power-box?
 
Two weeks ago, I had to clean my cabinet so I took everything out. The Phoenix boxes were temporarily lying on their sides on the floor. After reconnecting, everything worked but the maximum volume was very soft. Volume control is working though, I hear the relays clicking and there is change of volume. Also selecting inputs works properly, but the maximum sound level is far to low, both from my HP and in Pre-Amp mode.
 
When I measured the voltages coming from the power-box, I measured 24V from the left output and 7V from the right. I opened the case and saw that one of the power connectors was broken and there were a lot of pieces of metal (cast-iron) loose inside the case. My theory is that one of them caused a short circuit. One of the voltage regulators on the right side measured differently from the other ones. I contacted Kingwa and he sent me some new ones. After replacing the "assumed" faulty one, my voltages seem to be all right: both sides measure 24V now without the amp-box connected. With the amp-box connected, I measure 18V on its circuit board inside (left and right).
 
Sadly, the max volume is unchanged and is still far to low. Are my voltages correct now?
Is there a way to "reset" volume-control?
Any other ideas?

 

[Currawong]

BenBau: Contact Kingwa if there is weird stuff happening. He'll know what to test, if you have a voltmeter. 
 
Kingwa, I think, needs to use better power connectors.

 

[BenBau]

He's away on business for a week. I'm being impatient!

 

[punk_guy182]

He's coming back this monday.

 

[BenBau]

I exchanged a few emails with Kingwa, but as you know his English is not very comprehensive and he does not give answers to all your questions.
Anyway, my voltages are correct now: 6V for the control part and 18V for the amps. The exchange of the power regulator was the solution, but unfortunately my sound is still soft.
I discovered that it is actually signal leakage! I hear the soft sound on Selector 1-5 if I have an analog source connected to IN-1 (or any other input). I know signal leakage is normal, but on Selecor 1 I don't have the "full signal" apparently (only leakage signal).
The clicking I hear when changing inputs with the Selector are the volume relays. If I set the volume to 0 on all inputs and then change the input from 1-5 with the Selector, I do not hear relays clicking. Is this normal? Is anyone willing to test this for me: set volume to 0 on Selector 1-5 and then turn the Selector-knob - do you hear input relays clicking?

 

[haloxt]

I set volume to 0 on all selections and turned selection knob, heard relay. Remote, I also hear relay.

 

[BenBau]

Thank you haloxt, that's what I expected.
There seems to be something wrong with the control of the input relays. Could be a software problem I think. The serial connection between the power and amp box probably uses some kind of control protocol; if volume works, so should be the "steering" of the input relays (I'm guessing here). Another possibility is that some pins of the sub9 connector are actually used for the volume control and some others for the input control. Exchanging the serial-cable did not change anything (I have 4 original cables).

 

[Pricklely Peete]

BenBau,
 
Double check the ribbon cable connections (to the pcb) that is between the DC lines in the Amp chassis. They are really fine wires that connect to the preamp/headamp switch and the pcb and it does not take much for them to break free (if something is loose inside for instance). Other than that it's a tough call on what the problem is without testing the unit with the proper gear. It's also possible the short caused further damage than has been uncovered thus far.
 
I'm due to complete the MAX Mod on the Phoenix pretty soon (once I finish up with the RE1) so I may be able to add some further thoughts/suggestions WRT to the relay banks. Hmm...one side of the relay bank pcb (2 in total slung underneath) is hard wired into the main pcb while the other end is pins + inline socket ( double row IIRC). Have a look at the hard wired ends of the relay banks...maybe something has broken free ?  You said you had some metal bits floating about in the chassis...were they large or just some solder splash ? Oh another spot that comes to mind is near the front of the amp pcb (where the head amp section is) I believe there is some wiring/jumpers installed ...make sure those are connected properly. I have an early serial number Phoenix so yours may or may not have this wiring (now that I think of it). Anyway it gives you a few spots to look at while you and Kingwa try and narrow down the issue.
 
Good luck !!!!
 
Peete.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Thank you haloxt, that's what I expected.
There seems to be something wrong with the control of the input relays. Could be a software problem I think. The serial connection between the power and amp box probably uses some kind of control protocol; if volume works, so should be the "steering" of the input relays (I'm guessing here). Another possibility is that some pins of the sub9 connector are actually used for the volume control and some others for the input control. Exchanging the serial-cable did not change anything (I have 4 original cables).

Also the encoders can start "skipping" because they have too much oil in them.  Push inward on the knob a little and see if it starts switching.  If so, the encoders can be cleaned or changed out for better encoders.