[Telin]

I'll keep testing and trouble shooting whenever I find the time.

Truth been told I am a bit annoyed with the whole situation though. One of the main reasons for me to go for an external DAC/AMP was because I grew tired of the instability and other issues that comes with drivers for internal soundcards.
Yet I still find myself testing and trouble shooting drivers now with an external DAC/AMP

 

[Dailydrive]

I'm new to this forum
Eyed a pre-loved R2R11, but Kingwa of ADG confirm the set is pre-2019 version with no firmware update to reduce DSD noise of -14DB (as in their website)
My question, esp those who used to own/still owned the earlier R2R11, if the popping and hiss a minor (or never experienced before) or major concern ?
And if the firmware update eliminate the problem? (http://www.audio-gd.com/R2Rupdate2.htm)
I had & love the NBF11.38 but wanted to experience R2R without spending a fortune.

Advise is appreciated

 

[gimmeheadroom]

I think the firmware update is non-trivial on the R2R-11 but I can't remember for sure. Sorry, I have the later model so I can't answer about the noise issue.

 

[Dailydrive]

Thanks & appreciate your feedback

I'm on the fence betw a used set and new order from AGD, with saving of about half with pre2019 set.

If getting new maybe a preloved R8 with little more topup$ be better option? R8 size a little daunting though, as prefer to use for desktop.

 

[sajunky]

I'm new to this forum
Eyed a pre-loved R2R11, but Kingwa of ADG confirm the set is pre-2019 version with no DSD noise reduction of -14DB (as in their website)
My question, esp those who used to own/still owned the earlier R2R11, if the popping and hiss a minor (or never experienced before) or major concern ?
And if the firmware update eliminate the problem? (http://www.audio-gd.com/R2Rupdate2.htm)
I had & love the NBF11.38 but wanted to experience R2R without spending a fortune.

Advise is appreciated

When I received a second-hand R2R-11 one year ago, it was pre-2019 version. I asked Kingwa whether I should upgrade DA-8 firmware. The answer was clear: if I don't care about DSD playback, I should not upgrade. It is in line with user feedback in the R2R-11 section that a new firmware reduce, but did not eliminate clicks completely.

In my experience DSD noise only come out in a special places, only on some recordings when a complex music suddenly stops and continue feeding a DAC with digital zeros, a noise suddenly comes out after a second. If your volume is turned to a maximum, you can hear it. During a normal playback it is unnoticeable. Interesting is a fact that a noise completely disappears when a new track begins. Yes, I tried on a very silent tracks, normally there is no noise during playback. It appears suddenly during a digital silence, always in the same places and disappears completely when music begin playing again.

As for a clicks, there are present, noticeable, but not a disturbing volume, IHMO. The strongest clicks are happening when switching from DSD to PCM. I do not hesitate to fully recommend the old R2R-11, it is a real gem, there is nothing competetive for a price.

 

[Dailydrive]

That's informative !
My ears doesn't allows me to listen at full vol or my ears will bleed. In fact i don't even set the jumper (on my 11.38) to variable output option when connect to my amp.

Now I can bid with confidence with your feedback & much appreciated

 

[sajunky]

This is a proposal for USB fix on early NFB11/R2R-11, possibly later models as well.​

Symptoms (from less noticed to more serious):
- Warming up during first 30 minutes do not open a sound.
- Unstable sound quality, varying from one system to another.
- Interrupted playback for half second (in WASAPI Event mode) or generating periodic artifacts (in WASAPI push mode).
- Playback stops, driver becomes irresponsive. Pressing "Stop" button on the player do reset a driver, but reaction comes out delayed after 3 seconds.
- Driver hang-up during playback. Unplugging USB plug doesn't help, it require a cycle power on a DAC.

The last one is a @Telin case. All other I did experience myself.

Diagnosis:
Power off a DAC and unplug power cord. Unplug USB cable. Use a multimeter and measure resistance between body of USB connector and a chassis (screw heads). If resistance is 0, and it is stable (pushing a socket body all sides do not break connection), then it doesn't need further attention. No contact or intermittent contact is probably giving all trouble.

Cause: Termination of USB shield (which is connected to a case of USB connector) on the Amanero Combo384 module is insufficient and require additional grounding USB socket to a chassis.

Look at the photo (attached "socket.jpg"), In my case it normally do not make contact with chassis, you can even see a light coming through. When attaching a plug it can make a contact, depends on the positioning of the cable. A chassis is not cleaned in the place from a black paint, so there is no indication what is a design preference: to make a contact or prevent it happen. It can be one of a two, intermittent contact is not good. I made a tests and found that a lack of the contact do not help, but making a good contact does.

Fix:
1. Open top cover and remove two screws holding Amanero module.
2. Scratch a black paint in the place where a mounting bolt is touching chassis (photo "inside.jpg"). A flat screwdriver can be used, I used a similar bolt left from disassembly of a PC motherboard (photo "bolt.jpg"), rotaring it in a hole, result looks nice.
3. Solder a wire between socket assembly point and a bolt (photo "patched.jpg"). Solder a wire in some distance to a bolt to not let bolt to relocate.
4. Put everything back.

 

[Dailydrive]

Thank you for sharing a detailed fix to potential usb connection problem, a reference should my 11.38 run into problem. Still considering R11, & normally I'll take some months to think, so at the end of 2-3 months if I'm still looking at it, I'll know for certain this is the set I had considered thoroughly
So far been enjoying my 11.38 with sr1a powered thru forte model 6, thus I know 9038 has the details & coupled w AGD knowhow on a revealing can it's good enuff for me w/o spending too much further.
The delta sigma vs r2r vs delta tube vs tube r2r debate will run within me to satisfy a curiosity, & after some months either this thirst is quenched or this curiosity will died a natural death.
Or maybe I'll just do a litte contribution to the needy instead, in view of the deperate situation in India with conservative est of 1m death by 1 Aug, realistic est set at 3m by same date. Real sad.

 

[Pharmaboy]

Thank you for sharing a detailed fix to potential usb problem, a reference should my 11.38 run into problem. Still considering R11, & normally I'll take some months to think, so at the end of 2-3 months if I'm still looking at it, I'll know for certain this is the set I had considered thoroughly
So far been enjoying my 11.38 with sr1a powered thru forte model 6, thus I know 9038 has the details & coupled w AGD knowhow on a revealing can it's good enuff for me w/o spending too much further.
The delta sigma vs r2r vs delta tube vs tube r2r debate will run within me to satisfy a curiosity, & after some months either this thirst is quenched or this curiosity has died a natural death.
Or maybe I'll just do a litte contribution to the needy instead, in view of the deperate situation in India with conservative est of 1m death by 1 Aug, realistic est set at 3m by same date. Real sad.

Helping other people...more important right now than ever

 

[Telin]

This is a proposal for USB fix on early NFB11/R2R-11, possibly later models as well.​

Symptoms (from less noticed to more serious):
- Warming up during first 30 minutes do not open a sound.
- Unstable sound quality, varying from one system to another.
- Interrupted playback for half second (in WASAPI Event mode) or generating periodic artifacts (in WASAPI push mode).
- Playback stops, driver becomes irresponsive. Pressing "Stop" button on the player do reset a driver, but reaction comes out delayed after 3 seconds.
- Driver hang-up during playback. Unplugging USB plug doesn't help, it require a cycle power on a DAC.

The last one is a @Telin case. All other I did experience myself.

Diagnosis:
Power off a DAC and unplug power cord. Unplug USB cable. Use a multimeter and measure resistance between body of USB connector and a chassis (screw heads). If resistance is 0, and it is stable (pushing a socket body all sides do not break connection), then it doesn't need further attention. No contact or intermittent contact is probably giving all trouble.

Cause: Termination of USB shield (which is connected to a case of USB connector) on the Amanero Combo384 module is insufficient and require additional grounding USB socket to a chassis.

Look at the photo (attached "socket.jpg"), In my case it normally do not make contact with chassis, you can even see a light coming through. When attaching a plug it can make a contact, depends on the positioning of the cable. A chassis is not cleaned in the place from a black paint, so there is no indication what is a design preference: to make a contact or prevent it happen. It can be one of a two, intermittent contact is not good. I made a tests and found that a lack of the contact do not help, but making a good contact does.

Fix:
1. Open top cover and remove two screws holding Amanero module.
2. Scratch a black paint in the place where a mounting bolt is touching chassis (photo "inside.jpg"). A flat screwdriver can be used, I used a similar bolt left from disassembly of a PC motherboard (photo "bolt.jpg"), rotaring it in a hole, result looks nice.
3. Solder a wire between socket assembly point and a bolt (photo "patched.jpg"). Solder a wire in some distance to a bolt to not let bolt to relocate.
4. Put everything back.

Interesting...
I Probably give this a go as it is super simple to do and can't break what's already broken... just have to find out where on earth I left my soldering iron..

 

[sajunky]

Thank you for sharing a detailed fix to potential usb connection problem, a reference should my 11.38 run into problem. Still considering R11, & normally I'll take some months to think, so at the end of 2-3 months if I'm still looking at it, I'll know for certain this is the set I had considered thoroughly

My pleasure, it is generous, but I would rather like to hear response from those who tried a fix.

BTW, R2R-11 is discountinued, you don't have a time to think.

 

[sajunky]

Interesting...
I Probably give this a go as it is super simple to do and can't break what's already broken... just have to find out where on earth I left my soldering iron..

You can insert a workshop knife in a gap, forcing socket to make contact, measure resistance whether is stable and try it while looking for a soldering iron on earth.

On a second thought, where on earth you can find a workshop knife?

 

[ProLoL]

I highly recommend using a stock R2R11 with ISO regen, so good!

 

[sajunky]

So far I am satisfied with a mod and a SQ, but I am thinking of replacing clock oscilators with Crystek CCHD-575. Is not easy job, better to have SMD reworking station. Alternatively a new Amanero board can be ordered from Audio GD partners with Crystek clocks on-board. It is a plug-in replacement, no soldering. Following a suggestion from @FredA

 

[ProLoL]

I got an extra ISO regen that I accidently broke it's output socket and if someone want to purchase it in good price with it's internal Crystek CCHD-575 and other components, messege me.