In the GOTL, 6 (and12) SL7 and 6 ort 12SN7 were drop in replacements for one another. The 6 and 12SL7 has a higher gain factor than the SN7, and yes, that ECC35 is a nice sounding tube.Update # 2
I’ve actually settled on the 8 Ohm tap with the Caldera, but it needs a 6SL7 driver to really shine. If I’m running a 6SN7 (which is what I prefer in the Agartha for ZMF Dynamics) then the 16 Ohm tap is marginally better.
To my ears anyway which tap is preferable on an A&S amp with multiple taps is dependent on driver. YMMV
6SL7 8 Ohm
6SN7 16 Ohm
(Probably doesn’t hurt that I’m running an early Mullard ECC35 either)
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ZMF Caldera - New Planar Magnetic from ZMF!
- Thread starter ScornDefeat
- Start date
shwnwllms
1000+ Head-Fier
In the GOTL, 6 (and12) SL7 and 6 ort 12SN7 were drop in replacements for one another. The 6 and 12SL7 has a higher gain factor than the SN7, and yes, that ECC35 is a nice sounding tube.
I’ve been using 6SN7 (or equivalent single triodes with an adapter) more often on the Agartha to tame the noise on the 300 Ohm tap for ZMF Dynamics (since they are half the gain / twice the current) They certainly work with the Caldera but I’m not looking to lower the noise on the 8/16 Ohm tap anyway and the added gain seems to increase dynamics
I had a pair of early Mullard DET20’s in prior to rolling the ECC35 so same house sound (both pan getters) and it was a good comparison but I’ll be sticking to high gain tubes when listening to the Caldera from now on.
I’ve been using 6SN7 (or equivalent single triodes with an adapter) more often on the Agartha to tame the noise on the 300 Ohm tap for ZMF Dynamics (since they are half the gain / twice the current) They certainly work with the Caldera but I’m not looking to lower the noise on the 8/16 Ohm tap anyway and the added gain seems to increase dynamics
I had a pair of early Mullard DET20’s in prior to rolling the ECC35 so same house sound (both pan getters) and it was a good comparison but I’ll be sticking to high gain tubes when listening to the Caldera from now on.
Do you think with 6SN7 on the higher transformer tap (100 - 300 ohm) can increase Caldera's dynamics with the Agartha?
shwnwllms
1000+ Head-Fier
100 Ohm tap (6SN7 or equivalent) is listenable with the Caldera, it actually has some interesting characteristics. Mids are very full and notes have significant amount of body and weight behind them but it sacrifices detail, clarity and resolution so I wouldn’t recommend it.Do you think with 6SN7 on the higher transformer tap (100 - 300 ohm) can increase Caldera's dynamics with the Agartha?
Since the taps on an A&S amp are load and not output impedance 16/8 fit better with the rule of eight anyway. Generally speaking I wouldn’t go higher than 32 (which sounds a bit thin to me compared to 16/8)
Best way to increase dynamics on an A&S amp is to run a preamp, which is what I use my GS-X MK2 for
Thanks! Looks like it's gonna work on some genres but looks like the sweetspot would still be 6SL7 for planars
One of the biggest traits of the Caldera is that it has the ability to make you completely forget that you are listening to headphones. Only the music exists around you and sounds are coming from everywhere. You can see the music, see the musicians not just in front of you, but around you. What is an immersive experience if not this?
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Completely agree, I also landed on 8ohm tap, however with 5AR4 in the red october. I was running into the same problem on 32 and higher taps being too thin. I primarily run planars and generally prefer the 5AR4 compared to the 5U4G, but have only tried a few options. Need to find those top tier tubes.Update # 2
I’ve actually settled on the 8 Ohm tap with the Caldera, but it needs a 6SL7 driver to really shine. If I’m running a 6SN7 (which is what I prefer in the Agartha for ZMF Dynamics) then the 16 Ohm tap is marginally better.
To my ears anyway which tap is preferable on an A&S amp with multiple taps is dependent on driver. YMMV
6SL7 8 Ohm
6SN7 16 Ohm
(Probably doesn’t hurt that I’m running an early Mullard ECC35 either)
I remember demoing the Red October with the western electric 300B at CanJam. That was really magical with the Caldera as well. Rectification tubes can certainly make a difference but IMO the input and output tubes make the whole bulk of the sound. Lots of 9 pin options for input tubes with the Red October as well
Agreed, looking to pick up the WE 300B after the new year and have a handful of 9 pins coming in to try out!I remember demoing the Red October with the western electric 300B at CanJam. That was really magical with the Caldera as well. Rectification tubes can certainly make a difference but IMO the input and output tubes make the whole bulk of the sound. Lots of 9 pin options for input tubes with the Red October as well
Me, with my new Caldera, digging deep in my record collection to rediscover classics I haven't listened to in 15+ years.
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I did, yes. For me it altered the sound too much - didn’t feel or sound like a Caldera anymore. I went back to the suede with my EQ settings - enjoying that more over the stock (to my surprise) and thick cowhide. Think I’m closing to dialing things in on my chainDid you give this 10 band EQ setting a try?
https://github.com/jaakkopasanen/AutoEq/tree/master/results/Kuulokenurkka/over-ear/ZMF Caldera (suede earpads)
I'm traveling and I don't have my Calderas. Missing them!
iamoneagain
Headphoneus Supremus
Aren’t your setting just ASR Harman recommendation for stock pads? I wasn’t a fan with stock, bloated bass and the mids too forward but I haven’t tried with suede yet. But really all this testing so far has made realize the stock pads with no EQ is my preference.I did, yes. For me it altered the sound too much - didn’t feel or sound like a Caldera anymore. I went back to the suede with my EQ settings - enjoying that more over the stock (to my surprise) and thick cowhide. Think I’m closing to dialing things in on my chain
Edit: looks like you just lowered all the gain settings to not be quite as intense of a change.
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