Xduoo Amplifiers
Dec 28, 2021 at 12:28 AM Post #856 of 2,009
Interestingly, while the Hifiman HE6SE v2 are driven better by the TA-20, my Beyerdynamic DT880SE 600ohm are far better sounding on the TA-26, with a big wide sound and plenty of dynamic range - and more than enough power. Really nice. I didn't know what I was missing!

And, I'm not sure now I need to reduce the output on the D90, as I have -0.0dB set on the D90 and the DT880SE 600ohm has clear sweet audio.

I still have the DT990SE 600ohm, Sendyaudio Aiva, Sennheiser 660s, and a few more to break in on the TA-26.

The TA-26 stock tubes really do sound great now. :)
 
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Dec 28, 2021 at 2:19 AM Post #857 of 2,009
Interestingly, while the Hifiman HE6SE v2 are driven better by the TA-20, my Beyerdynamic DT880SE 600ohm are far better sounding on the TA-26, with a big wide sound and plenty of dynamic range - and more than enough power. Really nice. I didn't know what I was missing!

And, I'm not sure now I need to reduce the output on the D90, as I have -0.0dB set on the D90 and the DT880SE 600ohm has clear sweet audio.

I still have the DT990SE 600ohm, Sendyaudio Aiva, Sennheiser 660s, and a few more to break in on the TA-26's

The TA-26 stock tubes really do sound great now. :)
you wrote: while the Hifiman HE6SE v2 is driven better by the TA-20, but are you referring to BAL or SE?
 
Dec 28, 2021 at 2:46 PM Post #859 of 2,009
best pairings headphones-TA-20?
I think the answer to that will be as diverse as the people answering tbh. As long as the headphones aren't insanely hard to drive or are crappy in general, i think you'll be happy with the amp :) My experience with it so far only includes Hifiman Sundara, Sennheiser HD58X jubilee, Philips Fidelio X2, Beyerdynamic DT700 PRO X and Shure SH940.
And the amp doesn't in any way "eq" the headphones, it doesn't impress its own sound onto the headphones, rather some smaller details can be adjusted with different tubes, but the sound in general is pretty neutral.
I guess what i am trying to say here is that the source (dac, file quality etc) and the soundsignature of the actual headphone will matter more, as the amp in my opinion is basically a solidstate amp with a little bit of tube flavoring to be tilted a bit in the direction the owner desires.
That flavoring though, will not change the sound of the headphones, if that makes sense.

However; this all wasn't really a straight answer for you, but i think all my cans sound good on this amp, and i don't think i need something "better" to get the best out of most medium and medium-highly priced headphones.
 
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Dec 28, 2021 at 5:54 PM Post #860 of 2,009
you wrote: while the Hifiman HE6SE v2 is driven better by the TA-20, but are you referring to BAL or SE?
It doesn't matter, the TA-20 specifications show 2000mw for both Balanced and Single-ended. To me, between the two choices, there is a center focus pull to the Single-ended sound, so I prefer the Balanced mode sound on the TA-20 and have converted all of my cables to 4.4mm or 4-pin balanced because of the higher power delivery on the FiiO M15 and Topping A90, and 2.5mm on the BTR5. The TA-20 has the same power delivery on both 4-pin balanced and 6.35mm Single-Ended.

On the TA-26 there is only one choice, Single-ended, but the image presentation doesn't sound to me as "pulled in to the Center" as Single-ended on the TA-20 - after listening for a couple of dozen hours my ears are used to the presentation, and Single-Ended sounds as wide and detailed as Balanced on the TA-20.
best pairings headphones-TA-20?
The whole reason I bought the TA-20 is due to the Hybrid Tube/Solid-State design, which drives a wider range of IEM/headphone impedance, so there is less of a "compatibility" limitation with the TA-20 (8ohm-600ohm) as I've found on the TA-26 (60ohm-600ohm).

The 16 ohm DT770 didn't "sound right" on the TA-26 but the DT770 16 ohm sounds great on the TA-20. The 600 ohm DT880SE sounds "amazing" on the TA-26, and only "good" on the TA-20, after comparison with the TA-26. The TA-20 doesn't have enough power at 600ohm to make the 600 ohm headphone "pop" like on the TA-26. I'm looking forward to hearing my Sennheiser 120ohm/300ohm headphones on the TA-26.

And, I haven't tested IEMs, or mid-range 120ohm-300ohm headphones on the TA-26 yet. So, I've not completed testing/comparing the TA-26 vs TA-20. The TA-26 has that 60ohm low-end impedance range. IEM's 60ohms and under - most of them(?) may not sound as good on the TA-26 as on the TA-20, similar to what I heard with the DT770 16 ohm headphones on the TA-26.

On the TA-20, after I solved EMI/RFI and PC/GPU noise issues with Mogami 2534 QuadStar cable built by WBC, and the iFi iDefender+ on the USB input to the D90. IEM's which in general have a lower range of impedance than headphones, as well as higher sensitivity to system noise levels, sound great to me on the TA-20 - with a noise-free black background. The TA-26 has a noise-free quiet background on my headphones tested so far, but I've not tried sensitive headphones/IEM's on the TA-26 yet.

The TA-20 in either Bal/SE does great for all of my lower impedance IEM's and headphones, on up to 600 ohm, where most amps start to "fade" in power to drive 600 ohm headphones, the TA-20 drives headphones across the entire impedance range. As compared to the TA-20, the TA-26 has more "power/drive" on my 600 ohm DT880SE - it sounds "glorious", very tubey - even with the stock TA-26 tubes.

The TA-20 Hybrid Tube/SS design does a great job with IEM's, dynamic, BA, piezo, planar, hybrid designs, and also sounds great with dynamic, and planar headphones. They all sound great, and I've not been disappointed with anything I've listened with on the TA-20. :L3000:
 
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Dec 29, 2021 at 2:53 AM Post #863 of 2,009
It is the same model. I purchase one of these two months ago from a local supplier in Europe and it is decent.
Can you give a link, please?
TIA
 
Dec 29, 2021 at 3:04 AM Post #864 of 2,009
a different TA-26 on ebay? or the same?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304280607988
Yup, they added on a couple of bucks - list price is $319, comes from China. Do you know the seller?

IDK if there are authorized dealers for Xduoo on eBay? You might ask the seller you want to buy from if they handle warranty claims or do you end up needing to go direct with Xduoo for service?

Xduoo sells direct, with Paypal:
https://xduoo.net/product/ta-26/

I normally buy from Hifigo.com as they have great shipping sense - picking the best carrier at the time to get here in the US the quickest, I always get my stuff quickly - as quick as the best route available during the pandemic. Sometimes DHL isn't the fastest, so Hifigo.com uses Fedex.com or other Chinese carriers - using USPS "last mile" from port (LA/Oakland). https://hifigo.com/products/xduoo-ta-26-tube-headphone-amplifier-pre-amplifier

Xduoo shipped my TA-26 via DHL - not sure what shipping service Xduoo's direct sales uses to your location. Mine was shipped on Dec 17th from China, received by DHL Hong Kong on 21st, and arrived on Dec 23rd in US @ San Francisco DHL, and to me same day on Dec 23rd, so my TA-26 got here as quick as anything else I've bought direct from China. :)
It is the same model. I purchase one of these two months ago from a local supplier in Europe and it is decent.

LE:
@vmiguel I sent you a PM with the link.
Can you give a link, please?
TIA
Which Xduoo dealer in Europe? You might as well share the link(s) with everyone here :)
 
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Dec 29, 2021 at 8:04 AM Post #865 of 2,009
Yup, they added on a couple of bucks - list price is $319, comes from China. Do you know the seller?

IDK if there are authorized dealers for Xduoo on eBay? You might ask the seller you want to buy from if they handle warranty claims or do you end up needing to go direct with Xduoo for service?

Xduoo sells direct, with Paypal:
https://xduoo.net/product/ta-26/

I normally buy from Hifigo.com as they have great shipping sense - picking the best carrier at the time to get here in the US the quickest, I always get my stuff quickly - as quick as the best route available during the pandemic. Sometimes DHL isn't the fastest, so Hifigo.com uses Fedex.com or other Chinese carriers - using USPS "last mile" from port (LA/Oakland). https://hifigo.com/products/xduoo-ta-26-tube-headphone-amplifier-pre-amplifier

Xduoo shipped my TA-26 via DHL - not sure what shipping service Xduoo's direct sales uses to your location. Mine was shipped on Dec 17th from China, received by DHL Hong Kong on 21st, and arrived on Dec 23rd in US @ San Francisco DHL, and to me same day on Dec 23rd, so my TA-26 got here as quick as anything else I've bought direct from China. :)


Which Xduoo dealer in Europe? You might as well share the link(s) with everyone here :)

Sure, the place where I bought the equipment can be found under the name of Muziker :slight_smile:
 
Dec 29, 2021 at 8:51 AM Post #866 of 2,009
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Which one to try in the TA-20...Any advice/experiences?
Edit; I went with the Mundorf caps, as the Jantzen were a tighter fit. So i'll try these for a while, and then change :)
 
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Dec 29, 2021 at 11:42 AM Post #867 of 2,009
So far i have to be honest, i don't hear much of a difference. If anything there might be a tiny bit bigger soundstage, but that could easily be chalked up to expectation bias..
But i'll listen like this for a while, then swap the Mundorf caps for the Jantzen and hear if i can pick out any differences. This is what is fun about this hobby to me, and also why i don't buy more expensive equipment. It's more fun (and less hazardious to my wallet..) to tinker with the equipment to see what one can get out of it :)
 
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Dec 29, 2021 at 4:05 PM Post #868 of 2,009
:ksc75smile::ksc75smile:









Which one to try in the TA-20...Any advice/experiences?
Edit; I went with the Mundorf caps, as the Jantzen were a tighter fit. So i'll try these for a while, and then change :)
Thank you for the awesome photo's of the interior boards and wiring :)

I know it isn't your focus, but next time you have your TA-20 disassembled, can you please check out the riser board that holds the tube sockets, for a couple of things?

First, does that riser board have a support between it and the base board in the middle of the board?

The 4 corners have bolts,nuts, but does it also have a "spacer"?

Would you please photograph the edge on view so we can see the base board edge, bolt/spacer, and riser board assemblage, along with see the middle of the riser board gap to see what support there is in the middle of the base/riser board.

It would be helpful to also see an edge on view of the socket, whether there are "pins" off the sockets that go through the riser board and are soldered on both top/bottom, or if there are "tabs" off the socket that only solder to the top of the riser board.

And, if one/both of the bolt/screw "nut" pairs are loose on one side of the riser, is there movement of the board/socket when inserting a tube in that side's socket?

That is all for @cirodts and others noticing a "tick" when inserting a tube on one or both sides of their TA-20, it would be fun to figure out what might cause that tick by recreating it on a TA-20 that is getting opened on a semi-regular basis to test mod's.

What also might be interesting is to change the values of the caps, you have several of the same value, it would be interesting to solder them in parallel or solder them in series - changing the value - I wonder if those changes would be "more audible" than manufacturer/model/material changes?

Also, another fun project would be to calculate/reference the tube resistance/capacitance interace values to match the tube characteristics more exactly for the change from 12AU7 to 12AT7 - and perhaps 12AX7 - as well as E80CC/E180CC - as the 12AT7/12AX7/E80CC/E180CC tube swaps might sound "different" if correctly "tuned" tube interface values were used?

Of course, the inbalance of interface component value tuning might be what makes the swap from the 12AU7 to a 12AT7 sound so intriguing? :ksc75smile:
 
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Dec 29, 2021 at 5:47 PM Post #869 of 2,009
Thank you for the awesome photo's of the interior boards and wiring :)

I know it isn't your focus, but next time you have your TA-20 disassembled, can you please check out the riser board that holds the tube sockets, for a couple of things?

First, does that riser board have a support between it and the base board in the middle of the board?

The 4 corners have bolts,nuts, but does it also have a "spacer"?

From what i remember seeing, there is no supprt in the middle of the riserboard. Also, there are no lockwashers on the nuts that are holding it onto the standoffs from what i could see. So there is a real possibility for the nuts to loosen over time, or if they weren't tightened sufficiently in the first place.

Would you please photograph the edge on view so we can see the base board edge, bolt/spacer, and riser board assemblage, along with see the middle of the riser board gap to see what support there is in the middle of the base/riser board.

It would be helpful to also see an edge on view of the socket, whether there are "pins" off the sockets that go through the riser board and are soldered on both top/bottom, or if there are "tabs" off the socket that only solder to the top of the riser board.

And, if one/both of the bolt/screw "nut" pairs are loose on one side of the riser, is there movement of the board/socket when inserting a tube in that side's socket?

I'll take those (and better) pictures the next time i open the thing up, from all angles.
And i'll check if there is any play in the board, but i am certain there will be if one or more of the nuts are loose.

What also might be interesting is to change the values of the caps, you have several of the same value, it would be interesting to solder them in parallel or solder them in series - changing the value - I wonder if those changes would be "more audible"?

I am not too keen on changing the capacitance all that much considering i don't know what to expect from doing so. I am no electrical engineer, i am just a curious dude with a soldering iron..:p

Also, another fun project would be to calculate/reference the tube resistance/capacitance interace values to match the tube characteristics more exactly for the change from 12AU7 to 12AT7 - and perhaps 12AX7 - as well as E80CC/E180CC - as the 12AT7/12AX7/E80CC/E180CC tube swaps might sound "different" if correctly "tuned" tube interface values were used?

Of course, the inbalance of interface component value tuning might be what makes the swap from the 12AU7 to a 12AT7 sound so intriguing? :ksc75smile:

This, unfortunately, is way "above my paygrade"...lol. If you know someone who can make these calculations (and comment on the effect of changing cap values) please let me know and i'll be the guineapig if it is not unsafe :wink: Also, that might mean changing other components and their values, which is getting out there as far as potential benefit goes (to my knowledge).
But yea, you're probably right in that the amp can be tuned to work "better" with for instance the 12AX7 than it does atm.
 

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