[18inch]

i feel you, i do wish sometimes i never found out about tubes, its so easy to get lost and spend money on them! but its part of the fun though, the sound is much more pleasing as well in my experience.

Been tube rolling on my first tube integrated amplifier (single input stage tube) for about 2months now and its amazing how changing the tube pretty much changes the whole sonic character of the amplifier!!

This leads me to believe that the amplifier... well.. really just amplifies, to radically change the actual sound, im afraid you will have to go through the tube rolling process and figure out your favorite!

On the bright side though, with your version (13de7), going for 12sn7 with adaptor would be worth a shot, although there is less options than the 1st gen, they are much cheaper and apparently very similar to the 6sn7.

 

[ajheyl]

i feel you, i do wish sometimes i never found out about tubes, its so easy to get lost and spend money on them! but its part of the fun though, the sound is much more pleasing as well in my experience.

Been tube rolling on my first tube integrated amplifier (single input stage tube) for about 2months now and its amazing how changing the tube pretty much changes the whole sonic character of the amplifier!!

This leads me to believe that the amplifier... well.. really just amplifies, to radically change the actual sound, im afraid you will have to go through the tube rolling process and figure out your favorite!

On the bright side though, with your version (13de7), going for 12sn7 with adaptor would be worth a shot, although there is less options than the 1st gen, they are much cheaper and apparently very similar to the 6sn7.

I just ordered a pair of matched 6DR7's I'll for sure try out the 12sn7 w/adapter too as per your recommend.

 

[spyder1]

I just ordered a pair of matched 6DR7's I'll for sure try out the 12sn7 w/adapter too as per your recommend.

If you own 1st Gen WA6, vacuum tubes would be 6DR7, w/ adapters 6SN7. 2nd Gen WA6, vacuum tubes would be 13DR7, w/ adapters 12SN7.

 

[ajheyl]

If you own 1st Gen WA6, vacuum tubes would be 6DR7, w/ adapters 6SN7. 2nd Gen WA6, vacuum tubes would be 13DR7, w/ adapters 12SN7.

It's Second Gen. Thanks!

 

[twitch133]

i feel you, i do wish sometimes i never found out about tubes, its so easy to get lost and spend money on them! but its part of the fun though, the sound is much more pleasing as well in my experience.

Been tube rolling on my first tube integrated amplifier (single input stage tube) for about 2months now and its amazing how changing the tube pretty much changes the whole sonic character of the amplifier!!

This leads me to believe that the amplifier... well.. really just amplifies, to radically change the actual sound, im afraid you will have to go through the tube rolling process and figure out your favorite!

On the bright side though, with your version (13de7), going for 12sn7 with adaptor would be worth a shot, although there is less options than the 1st gen, they are much cheaper and apparently very similar to the 6sn7.

I have found that half the fun is searching for and findings rare and fun tubes.

It makes enjoying them feel so much more interesting.

 

[18inch]

^^^ definitly true!

Does anyone one tried the Sophia Aqua 274b, wondering if its a big difference xompared to the sophia mesh. Not too sure whats the whole 47uF is all about compared to the 4uF on the mesh.. Apparently should give more extention and better details?

 

[twitch133]

^^^ definitly true!

Does anyone one tried the Sophia Aqua 274b, wondering if its a big difference xompared to the sophia mesh. Not too sure whats the whole 47uF is all about compared to the 4uF on the mesh.. Apparently should give more extention and better details?

I think it is something to do with the tube's capacitance, and the inline capacitor downstream of the tube... I think the uF (Micro Faraday, IICR?) rating is what the capacitor downstream needs to measure at. But, I am a mechanic who is in the process of training, and getting back into school to become a mechanical or service engineer. Electronics are a little bit out of my league, lol.

I can't find a print of the WA6 / SE to save my life though, so finding the rating of that capacitor may need to come down to someone that has taken the covers off of their amp to have a look.

There are so many raving reviews and success stories about the WA6 / SE (And other woo amps) with the SE 274B, that I imagine the capacitor in question is most likely a 4uF...

 

[18inch]

ahh ok, i might open up my wa6 and check that out when i have the time!

Is the rectifier responsible for the frequency reponse more than the drivers? I know the drivers changes that a bit but im not too sure of the main role of the rectifier

As of now i find that the wa6 rolls off at about 30hz , im running the sophia mesh with raytheon 6de7.

 

[twitch133]

ahh ok, i might open up my wa6 and check that out when i have the time!

Is the rectifier responsible for the frequency reponse more than the drivers? I know the drivers changes that a bit but im not too sure of the main role of the rectifier

As of now i find that the wa6 rolls off at about 30hz , im running the sophia mesh with raytheon 6de7.

I can't comment on it from the engineering side (The most I get into on electrical engineering is Inductive and capacitive coupling of rotating shafts...), or really from the audio side. Due to years as an engine technician working crew boats in the Gulf of Mexico, my high frequency hearing is shot, and I constantly can hear my tinnitus... Even over fairly loud music.

But, From rolling between a Svetlana 5U4GB, and the Sophia Mesh 274B. It tightens the base up. I am not sure what it does with the frequency response to the low end, nor does it seem to increase the amount of bass... But, the SE 274B makes the bass tighter, hit harder, and more defined / detailed. At least, that is my completely subjective experience with it. It seems to match the general consensus as well... Except that for most others, they seem to see a greater volume of bass after going with the 274.

 

[18inch]

Well i opened up my wa6, not sure which cap i should look lol for but the big ones seem to be 330uF. Idk, i might just get the aqua and try it out and compare myself! lolz

 

[ajheyl]

I just ordered a pair of matched 6DR7's I'll for sure try out the 12sn7 w/adapter too as per your recommend.

So I tried the 6DR7 NOS. They weren't cheap at 50 bucks. First impression they burn bright. They break up easily and not in a good way. They can't handle any level of complex music such as orchestra. They were for sure brighter and I liked that but overall a very limited tube.

 

[18inch]

^^ your not suppose to run these tubes with the second gen!! The latest version runs 12v or 13v iirc through the drive tubes whereas anything that starts with 6 is a 6v tube which is not compatible.. I would assume your frying the tube now(not sure), i would turn off the amp and take them off once its cooled off just to be safe! Wa6 second gen driver tube should start with 13 , or 12sn7 with the adaptor only.

 

[twitch133]

Well i opened up my wa6, not sure which cap i should look lol for but the big ones seem to be 330uF. Idk, i might just get the aqua and try it out and compare myself! lolz

Good question... lol. I figured it would be a little bit more obvious. Open it up and there would be a small, <4uF cap staring right at you from somewhere around the rectifier base....

So I tried the 6DR7 NOS. They weren't cheap at 50 bucks. First impression they burn bright. They break up easily and not in a good way. They can't handle any level of complex music such as orchestra. They were for sure brighter and I liked that but overall a very limited tube.

Like 18inch said... Gen 2 uses a 13 volt heater. (the first two digits in the tube number). I would imagine the issues with the sound are likely based around the incorrect tube.

Most of the tubes I have been finding are various 13DE7 and 13FD7 offerings.

I have found a decent source of both... A seller on ebay, with matched offerings from RCA and Sylvania for, what I assume is a fairly reasonable cost. I am running a set of Sylvania, 13FD7's. Fat bottle, black plate side getter... (all of the catch terms, if any of them mean anything to anyone...) 1950's NOS, IIRC. Theye are quite excellent. Let me know if you want me to PM you the details of the guy on Ebay.

On my HD650's they drive this beautifully detailed and tenured mid range, with great imaging that makes classical (or anything with strings or brass) really pop.

On my LCD-X's, they really make the bass sing. It is ever present, but well controlled and never overwhelming. It never drowns out the mids or highs.

(If anyone know's how to find and read date codes on tubes, if they even exist... It would be pretty cool to verify the vintage on these guys...)

 

[ajheyl]

Guys you rock! The woo site is a little unclear on 1st vs second and what tubes to try. I didn't see that twitch actually said that 1st gen and second gen were different but when I re-read it there it was...plain as day. Thanks for all the help and education. I have a couple types of 13's coming.

 

[ajheyl]

Good question... lol. I figured it would be a little bit more obvious. Open it up and there would be a small, <4uF cap staring right at you from somewhere around the rectifier base....



Like 18inch said... Gen 2 uses a 13 volt heater. (the first two digits in the tube number). I would imagine the issues with the sound are likely based around the incorrect tube.

Most of the tubes I have been finding are various 13DE7 and 13FD7 offerings.

I have found a decent source of both... A seller on ebay, with matched offerings from RCA and Sylvania for, what I assume is a fairly reasonable cost. I am running a set of Sylvania, 13FD7's. Fat bottle, black plate side getter... (all of the catch terms, if any of them mean anything to anyone...) 1950's NOS, IIRC. Theye are quite excellent. Let me know if you want me to PM you the details of the guy on Ebay.

On my HD650's they drive this beautifully detailed and tenured mid range, with great imaging that makes classical (or anything with strings or brass) really pop.

On my LCD-X's, they really make the bass sing. It is ever present, but well controlled and never overwhelming. It never drowns out the mids or highs.

(If anyone know's how to find and read date codes on tubes, if they even exist... It would be pretty cool to verify the vintage on these guys...)

Yes please. Feel free to PM me. I'll look the eBay seller up. I see a guy in Canada with a couple sets of the 13FD7's. Fat bottle, black plate side getter Again, THANKS!