[Christer]

That would make sense as I think the original M scaler tech was in the Blu mkII, but that's been discontinued.

Wishes and yet more wishes.. that mostly imho,do NOT make much sense.

If one follows what Rob himself has revealed here it seems VERY unlikely that he would EVER add a cd player or for that matter a Streamer to a new product he designs and develops.
That the orginal Mscaler was in Blu2 was as I understand it , simply because it happened to be ready then and adding it to Blu2 was the quickest and easiest way to get the Mscaler to the market as I see and interpret things Rob hints at here.

In other words I do NOT expect neither a Dave 2 ,TT3 ,H3 nor a new Blu model NOR Streamer from Rob himself, in the near future or EVER as far as a new Blu/ cd player is concerned.
But as he has revealed already more than once,, a NEW "much more advanced" Mscaler X and some kind of digital amp that may not even need a dac added if used with current and future Mscalers?


Do I need to post the YT "Monty Python Wishes" once again?

Having said that,what Chord decides to launch as "follow-up "products to Rob´s orginal designs , as "Anni" the amp with a fan, or Poly clearly show is of course an entirely different story.
Personally I am NOT at all a fan of amps with fans.
I really hope Rob will not need to use a fan for his digital amp project.
Fans make noise.
And imho noise should to be avoided.


"And Now over to something completey different"
Cheers CC

 

[Triode User]

"And Now over to something completey different"
Cheers CC

“And Now for Something Completely Different”.

Sorry, the quote is ingrained on my memory having grown up listening to their records!

 

[MarkusBarkus]

...take him for a scrape 'round Dinsdale's place.

 

[Christer]

“And Now for Something Completely Different”.

Sorry, the quote is ingrained on my memory having grown up listening to their records!

Oops, mea culpa. Thanks for correcting me.
Cheers CC

 

[Kentajalli]

Just a silly idea:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/cho...ing-on-page-95-of-thread.885405/post-16820475

 

[feddar]

I would like to try to direct drive speakers with my TT2. I have read this thread closely, but still cannot get a clear idea of how to do it. I do know that if I mess up I could injure the TT2 and possibly void the warrantee. Could someone please outline exactly how to do it?

Also, what specs are needed for the speakers to avoid any damage while sounding transparent?

Thanks

 

[jarnopp]

I would like to try to direct drive speakers with my TT2. I have read this thread closely, but still cannot get a clear idea of how to do it. I do know that if I mess up I could injure the TT2 and possibly void the warrantee. Could someone please outline exactly how to do it?

Also, what specs are needed for the speakers to avoid any damage while sounding transparent?

Thanks

This is Rob’s thread and I defer to anything he says about this, but my suggestions come from so one who has run speakers from TT2 and even Mojo for over 2 years. So, first is why do you want to do this? It can be because you don’t want to pay for an external amp, you have a small space and don’t need to play loudly, or you have really transparent (i.e., efficient single driver speakers) and you want maximum transparency.

If transparency, then you might find efficient speakers with 92+ dB and you can decide to feed them from the front panel, rear RCA, or rear XLR (single-ended or balanced). All options will give you ~8 watts out except XLR balanced, where you will get 18 watts. You will need the appropriate cables or adapters for you situation.

Rather than try to address all cases here, can you provide more details of your setup and what you want to accomplish? Thanks!

 

[ra990]

I would like to try to direct drive speakers with my TT2. I have read this thread closely, but still cannot get a clear idea of how to do it. I do know that if I mess up I could injure the TT2 and possibly void the warrantee. Could someone please outline exactly how to do it?

Also, what specs are needed for the speakers to avoid any damage while sounding transparent?

Thanks

The easy way is just to get RCA to speaker wire, which you can purchase online and just connect between the TT2 and your speakers.

You can use the XLR outputs if you want to drive your speakers balanced. I would only do this if your speakers are very efficient. You need to wire your connections to the XLR's + and - pins. There are three pins, you will only use 2. There are diagrams on this thread that you can look at which will show you the pins on the XLR port and which ones to use. One cable goes from + XLR out to + in your speakers. Other cable goes from - XLR out to the - on your speakers.

Make sure you start your TT2's volume at min.

I hope that helps!

 

[Whazzzup]

Or run Ls50 wireless ii speakers. One could play through iTunes, or in my case a roon network music server. We’ll have a thread for info, thoughts, debate.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/kef...t-desktop-bookshelf-wireless-speakers.961885/

now Dave 2 then we’re talking.

 

[iDesign]

I’m looking forward to the release of the Choral M Scaler and will likely keep my Blu MkII for its CD drive. Hopefully Rob Watts will come up with a savvy way to utilize the Blu MkII’s I/O so users can do away their existing heavy ferrited BNC cables going to the DAVE and connect it to the Choral M Scaler with tidy .5 or 1m interconnects.

 

[Jawed]

Keeping my fingers crossed that a pairing of Choral M Scaler and DX amps will provide the option of an optical connection in addition to electrical with BNC.

 

[feddar]

This is Rob’s thread and I defer to anything he says about this, but my suggestions come from so one who has run speakers from TT2 and even Mojo for over 2 years. So, first is why do you want to do this? It can be because you don’t want to pay for an external amp, you have a small space and don’t need to play loudly, or you have really transparent (i.e., efficient single driver speakers) and you want maximum transparency.

If transparency, then you might find efficient speakers with 92+ dB and you can decide to feed them from the front panel, rear RCA, or rear XLR (single-ended or balanced). All options will give you ~8 watts out except XLR balanced, where you will get 18 watts. You will need the appropriate cables or adapters for you situation.

Rather than try to address all cases here, can you provide more details of your setup and what you want to accomplish? Thanks!

I am looking to get transparent sound with not too expensive speakers ($2-7k) direct out of the TT2 without potential for damaging the TT2. I play my music quiet. I normally use headphones, but I would also like the ability to listen with speakers for times when I cannot use headphones.

Any suggestions of speakers and speaker specs would be greatly appreciated as well.

 

[Rob Watts]

For TT2 when driving speakers (or loads less than 16 ohms) do not use the balanced connection - as it will thermally trip if run loud. If it's not run loud, then you don't need the extra power. The balanced connection is for power amps with balanced XLR inputs, or headphones that need huge amounts of voltage drive.

Single ended it will work with difficult loads such as the B and W 803 D3, which I use with TT2. And I get more than enough volume.

 

[jarnopp]

I am looking to get transparent sound with not too expensive speakers ($2-7k) direct out of the TT2 without potential for damaging the TT2. I play my music quiet. I normally use headphones, but I would also like the ability to listen with speakers for times when I cannot use headphones.

Any suggestions of speakers and speaker specs would be greatly appreciated as well.

I use the Omega SAMs which are efficient single-driver speakers at the lower end of your budget. There are smaller and larger models, also, and they are not too far from you, and great to do business with. I pair them with a powered sub (Elac 3030) so use the XLRs to power the speakers and the RCA output to the sub. I have my XLR wired balanced, but I suspect because the speakers are efficient and 8ohm, I have never experienced thermal tripping or even excessive warmth. If I ever change the cabling I would be fine to change to SE.

 

[Kentajalli]

Re; Solid core headphone cable again.
A while ago, I posted that I tried a new DIY solid core (pure) silver cable on my headphones with odd results.
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/watts-up.800264/post-16728787
The result I got was that, Hugo2 started to sound warmer and fuller, but Mojo classic became leaner and brighter - in essence improved both with opposite effects.
@Rob Watts explained that it was the solid core that was to blame (Credit?) for the odd results, while I thought it was impedance or capacitance.
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/watts-up.800264/post-16729347
At any rate, my original cable was in PTFE tubing and very rigid and cumbersome, to remedy it, I tried to put together a new cable.
Fancy cables are expensive, so DIY was my friend.
I got some pure silver wire from Jewellers-supply (they use it for repairs), some at 0.5mm and some at 0.3mm, my original was 0.4mm thickness.
I also got rubberized heatshrink tubing and made two sets of cables, 0.3mm at 75cm, and 0.5mm at 1 meter.


Electrically they are superior to anything I have measured before (not many). The 0.5mm @ 1m measures less than 0.1 Ohm per conductor and no measurable capacitance or inductance (less than 1pF and 1nH, the limits of my meter), that is for the finished item with termination.
The 0.3mm @ 0.75m was same but for 0.15 Ohm per conductor.
I used pure silver (cheap stuff) because it is softer than copper, I do not believe silver is magical!
After a couple nightsof listening, I find similar results, but for the fact that 0.5mm one sounds better than 0.4mm, which sounds better than 0.3mm - is this a pattern??
By better, I mean sound stage clues are better heard (minor room reflections, the odd sigh etc.), bass a little more defined and hi treble clarity was the most tell-tale as to which was which.
The distant cymbals on Chris Rea 1986 (standard CD) "Just passing through" became so clear, I had never heard so cleanly.
so what's the take?
The thicker the solid core the better?
I used to joke (on Headfi) that coat-hangers sound as good as fancy cables! was I right ?
I still do not believe in silly money cables, even with pure silver and best termination, I never spend more that £50 on cables.