Thunderpants!
Jan 12, 2011 at 8:42 AM Post #1,141 of 2,225


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I am using the now unobtainium Moorebrook and Auzzie felts from our good friend in Italy. I used a spacer instead of an additional damping layer between the auzzie felt that sits up against the driver and the moorebrook that damps the chamber. I am sure other felts could be used , just a matter of finding the right combination that works for you..dB
 

Quote:
Actually, it sounds like you're saying that instead of the additional felt and stock foam, you maybe used some more open cell foam inside between the felt against the driver and the felt against the back of the cups?  I've been trying this recently with my Fostex- using some light foam to fill the space, so you can use less damping without getting a hollow, empty chamber sound from the inside of the cups.

Phhh...hardstuff for a non-native speaker, and I bet my English skills are above average.
 
Maybe a rough scheme???

 
I feel a bit discontent about using "less damping", as that old Fostex has an annoying tendency to convert into a complete dullhead if it doesn't get brutally strangled from backwards. Or does that effect get compensated by the bigger pads?
 
 
Jan 12, 2011 at 9:21 AM Post #1,142 of 2,225
I am not sure I am using less damping than you, the felt I refer to is very dense but happens to be thin and thus you use less to achieve a similar effect to using a lot of regular type felts. I would recommend hunting through material shops for the type of material that they would have used in the 1940 -- 1950's to make coats. Real wool or mohair (iirc this is what the moorebrook is) The scheme I used is not dissimilar from the standard recommendation from F2D - see below
 

 
I do not use the stock foam but use a thicker "donut" spacer , like a dense chamois which in itself must damp the sound moving out to the side. But it allows for a small chamber behind the driver which I feel improved thee bass response. 
 
Let us know how it works for you , this discussion should also perhaps move to the ortho thread as we seem to have veered off TP discussion and back to "vanilla" ortho :wink: ..dB
 
Jan 12, 2011 at 1:20 PM Post #1,143 of 2,225
Maybe I can borrow ApatN's T50 pads and then I'll see what is what...
 
Edit: Damn, they really can have normal pads, I just tried some DT770 pads I hadn't tried before. Not perfect over the entire frequency range right away, but they develop at least bass worth mentioning. I gotta look deeper into that, because comfort & SS is heaven...
basshead.gif

 
Jan 12, 2011 at 4:52 PM Post #1,144 of 2,225
How did you manage to get those pads to fit? I thought the Jmoney Beyer pads were already a very tight fit and I was afraid I would rip the DT770 pads when I would install them on my T50...
 
Jan 12, 2011 at 11:05 PM Post #1,146 of 2,225


Quote:
How did you manage to get those pads to fit? I thought the Jmoney Beyer pads were already a very tight fit and I was afraid I would rip the DT770 pads when I would install them on my T50...



You could just tape them directly to the bezel of the TPs.  The J$ pads have the lip for mounting them, but I wouldn't try to stretch it over the sides like Smeggy does for the O2 or stock T50 pads. 
 
Jan 13, 2011 at 3:28 AM Post #1,147 of 2,225


Quote:
How did you manage to get those pads to fit? I thought the Jmoney Beyer pads were already a very tight fit and I was afraid I would rip the DT770 pads when I would install them on my T50...

I didn't. I just put the DT770 pads onto the baffle, increased headband pressure and had a trial. I would have fixed them indeed with tape, or I could have slaughtered one of my obsolete Superlux housings if they had sounded great.
 
Result was, however, ambivalent. SS, comfort and PRat was excellent, the bass was bone dry, but the presence section became too prominent. Worst was that part of the ortho magic got sucked out of the mids. I tried to counteract by different damping, but was only partially successful. Bigger pads seem to need less damping, but the price you pay is the reduction of presence details I had feared from the beginning. I'll keep them with their modified stock pads as long as I don't find other "magic" pads...
 
 
Jan 24, 2011 at 1:00 AM Post #1,148 of 2,225
dear all..
 
last week I got my woody T20v2 redamped.
I pulled out paper layer behind the driver magnet and remove a damping layer behind it (i dont know what the name is, it's just like dried wet tissue).
 
The effects are the low sector became more tight and impact (i like it..!!), treble was lil' bit rolled off (but it's still okay), and it had a worse imaging.
I can't feel the positions of each instruments, tough its still in good separation.
 
Is it any idea to bring the imaging back but still keep the quality of low sector?
 
Jan 24, 2011 at 2:15 PM Post #1,149 of 2,225
Apply some soft stuff to the plastic interior of the housing - be it bluetac or whatever.
 
Jan 24, 2011 at 8:02 PM Post #1,151 of 2,225


Quote:
thanks for the suggestion, nickchen.
there isn't any platic interior of the housing since the whole housing is woody.
is your idea still can be applied for woody housing?



You shouldn't need to dampen the housing for vibration...
 
I've had really good results with micropore or transpore, depending on the driver.  I find that micropore over the driver brings out the treble, and transpore brings out the bass.
 
Jan 25, 2011 at 2:59 PM Post #1,152 of 2,225


Quote:
You shouldn't need to dampen the housing for vibration...

I think stuff like bluetac or Alubutyl does also increase the presence section for some reason...that is at least my experience...could be voodoo, but my buddy NoXter agreed...
 
 
Feb 3, 2011 at 8:14 AM Post #1,153 of 2,225
I got a pair of smegs TP and I can't get a seal with them unless I stay pushing against my ears with both hands... If I let it go the soud turns thin and the bass goes with it. Am I missing something ?
 
btw how do you know which one is left and right and the holes closed with blutack is to give more or less bass ?
 
Feb 3, 2011 at 10:19 PM Post #1,155 of 2,225
The headband probably needs to be bent in to fit the shape of your head.  I had to do that with my clones that I made, and is also documented by the original poster of this thread many pages ago.

 

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