Well I guess my quest for a good, affordable USB-C player is ending. The new Zishan even supports rockbox. Feel a bit bad for "wasting" 87€ in the DSD a few weeks ago,
For you guys who excited for the new T1 and saying the 799 is aging and T1 is somewhat better, hold up. There's gotta be a lot of price to pay for the changeable DAC module. For you guys who already ordered, I'm counting on you for your experiences on the T1 once it arrived. And if you don't mind, write all your thoughts and opinions for ZiShan T1 on the T1 thread . Good day
In Ivan's photo, the cable is used to connect Zishan to an external DAC, it carries a SPDIF digital signal.
We can also see the cable is connected to the bottom side of zishan.
SPDIF needs a coax cable and there are some in AE, but because is so short, any cable can work in a test (don't put the player near a transformer, a mobile phone or other interference if the short cable has no shield).
I bought my DSD to experiment and learn more about audio circuits.
I wanted to find and try a low profile soic8 N socket, that could be soldered anywere on (approximately) the same PCB size of a soic8 opamp.
I knew they had these sockets for 200/300 MIL (wider) flashroms and wished they also made them for 150 MIL.
Couldn't find anyone using or advertised this 150 MIL (soic8 Narrow) low profile sockets until now.
I think they were designed for flashroms, but I really don't know.
I didn't A/B test the sockets sound wise and only time can tell how many insertions they can handle.
The connectors look good, contacts look like gold plated and worked well in the few minutes I tried.
They are difficult to solder. I used a 1mm tip.
One idea is to solder one in a dip8 adapter, test and compare the sound and socket mechanical resistance and see how it goes for longer time.
I bought my DSD to experiment and learn more about audio circuits.
I wanted to find and try a low profile soic8 N socket, that could be soldered anywere on (approximately) the same PCB size of a soic8 opamp.
I knew they had these sockets for 200/300 MIL (wider) flashroms and wished they also made them for 150 MIL.
Couldn't find anyone using or advertised this 150 MIL (soic8 Narrow) low profile sockets until now.
I think they were designed for flashroms, but I really don't know.
I didn't A/B test the sockets sound wise and only time can tell how many insertions they can handle.
The connectors look good, contacts look like gold plated and worked well in the few minutes I tried.
They are difficult to solder. I used a 1mm tip.
One idea is to solder one in a dip8 adapter, test and compare the sound and socket mechanical resistance and see how it goes for longer time.
I bought my DSD to experiment and learn more about audio circuits.
I wanted to find and try a low profile soic8 N socket, that could be soldered anywere on (approximately) the same PCB size of a soic8 opamp.
I knew they had these sockets for 200/300 MIL (wider) flashroms and wished they also made them for 150 MIL.
Couldn't find anyone using or advertised this 150 MIL (soic8 Narrow) low profile sockets until now.
I think they were designed for flashroms, but I really don't know.
I didn't A/B test the sockets sound wise and only time can tell how many insertions they can handle.
The connectors look good, contacts look like gold plated and worked well in the few minutes I tried.
They are difficult to solder. I used a 1mm tip.
One idea is to solder one in a dip8 adapter, test and compare the sound and socket mechanical resistance and see how it goes for longer time.
One thing I noticed is that the old/traditional soic8 to dip8 adapter used for opamps can damage and pull the PCB traces when frequent used.
I had one (temporary) soldered in Z3 to test opamps and I was careful to pull the DIP8 female socket part from the Z3, before I inserted a new opamp, but still it damaged one PCB trace after some insertions (let's say 20+ insertions).
So I replaced that traditional socket with this new low profile socket model in my Z3 (had to cut a tiny bit of the socket for it to fit).
Opening this new low profile socket requires much less strength to the PCB, but I considered putting a bit of glue at the socket bottom and glue it to the PCB before soldering, so zero strength is applied to the PCB traces when it's used.
Because one PCB trace was already a bit lifted in my Z3, I glued the new socket to the PCB before I solder it.
I also glued the new sockets to my DSD before soldering, maybe it's not required, but I won't have surprises this way.
I used araldite and usually araldite will unglued with the hot air station high temperature, but I didn't tried to remove it.
I don't have an idea how to unsolder this sockets without melting them, I think the hot air station will melt the plastic socket.
Anyway, I considered all this before I glued and solder them and I have no intention to remove the sockets, so no worries.
The new sockets are working well, for now they always made good electrical contact without any noises.
These sockets make a good tight fit, used unsoldered soic8 opamps can't have any solder at all in them, not even the tiniest bit. Brand new ones fit like a glove in the socket.
opamp placed on top of the socket (bottom) feet, to give an idea of the space the socket occupies when soldered onto the PCB:
Note: leftover solder on the opamp legs can't go inside the socket
They say there are different models of display used in the different DSD HW revisions and they are not completely compatible with each other.
For example in my DSD I can read the beginning of the LCD model: TFT8K19????? the rest is covered by the PCB.
I think you need to see what you LCD model is and buy the same model.
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