[padam]

So I'm trying to get my first Stax setup and I have pretty much settled on the 009S earspeaker to begin with (I would also want to pick up a vintage Omega or 007 MK I eventually to complement it if I can find a good condition one).

I know the general recommendation here would be to go with HeadAmp or Mjolnir Audio or just DIY but I do want to stay with a official Stax amp to begin with (also for cost and space reasons). I was mainly considering the SRM-353X, but is it worth paying extra to spring up for the SRM-727 II? I do not listen very loud at all and I have heard that the 009 (and thus apparently the 009S) are a bit easier to drive than the 007.

Unfortunately I cannot find any local place to audition this for myself so your feedback would be very helpful.

The 353X is very neutral. The 727II is more powerful but not as linear.
It has an 'interesting, tube-like' coloration, which might work quite well at lower listening levels. That also makes it quite bland. However, it becomes uncontrolled in the bass once the volume is pushed higher, and the highs can sound rolled off, albeit that also makes it somewhat less fatiguing with the SR-009.
With a simple mod, the global feedback can be reinstated to sound more like a 'proper' solid-state amp. In that case it will sound much closer to the 323X with a bit of added power, although still slightly warmer.
Some say the highs are a bit metallic and unrefined even after the mod, but with my current DAC, I haven't really heard that.

 

[elira]

Just got an SRD-5 with a pair of SR-3. As far as I understand this thing is very old like from the 70s, it works fine, but I see that it has two 1uF electrolytic capacitors. Should I replace them or just leave it running until it dies?

 

[JimL11]

Just got an SRD-5 with a pair of SR-3. As far as I understand this thing is very old like from the 70s, it works fine, but I see that it has two 1uF electrolytic capacitors. Should I replace them or just leave it running until it dies?

The 1 uf caps are for the bias supply, and they should be replaced. Otherwise there is nothing in there that should go bad. They are polarized, so make sure the replacements have the same polarity, and also make sure they have the same voltage rating.

 

[hpeter]

There you go! Once you go Stax, you never go Back!

a-b-s-o-l-u-t-e-l-y

 

[tabness]

The 353X is very neutral. The 727II is more powerful but not as linear.
It has an 'interesting, tube-like' coloration, which might work quite well at lower listening levels. That also makes it quite bland. However, it becomes uncontrolled in the bass once the volume is pushed higher, and the highs can sound rolled off, albeit that also makes it somewhat less fatiguing with the SR-009.
With a simple mod, the global feedback can be reinstated to sound more like a 'proper' solid-state amp. In that case it will sound much closer to the 323X with a bit of added power, although still slightly warmer.
Some say the highs are a bit metallic and unrefined even after the mod, but with my current DAC, I haven't really heard that.

Thanks bud this is very helpful. Looks like I'm going to go with the 353X to start with and see if there is an upgrade path to a non Stax amp (most likely the KGSShv Carbon).

 

[mulveling]

I'd hesitate to call amps like the KGSShv, Carbon, KGST, SRX-Plus, and Blue Hawaii "non-Stax amps". I think of them more like: "Stax as god intended".

 

[Rhamnetin]

I suppose he literally meant not branded/designed by Stax. Can just say Kevin Gilmore designed amps too. I've never actually listened to a Stax headphone out of a Stax branded/made amp haha.

 

[nanosword]

is it good to start with Mjolnir Carbon not CC or I should go with CC

 

[Rhamnetin]

is it good to start with Mjolnir Carbon not CC or I should go with CC

I went with the non-CC. Personally I just doubt I'd hear much difference. The CC has an improved power supply, better wiring, better volume control, not sure what else. Can't go wrong with either, but if you're at all budget minded then the regular one probably makes the most sense.

 

[SeaWo|f]

is it good to start with Mjolnir Carbon not CC or I should go with CC

OCD level should/will determine this choice.

The full size chassis might run a bit cooler, so depending on your setup that may also be a factor.

Edit:: he is also using the encapsulated transformers from tordy.pl now if I am not mistaken. I think some early CCs got rcores. IDK the reason for the switch.

 

[buzzlulu]

I went back and forth with Birgir about the differences between the two. In the end I ended up going with his advice and chose a normal Carbon.
That is what he uses for his personal amplifier.
Mine has been bench testing since Friday and should be shipping from Iceland tomorrow

 

[plinth]

Thanks bud this is very helpful. Looks like I'm going to go with the 353X to start with and see if there is an upgrade path to a non Stax amp (most likely the KGSShv Carbon).

Did you notice that a 353X popped up in the amps for sale section in this site.

If you are open to going second hand then do consider the KG designed amps that often crop up for sale. My Mjölnir-Audio Carbon puts a smile on my face every day (well, actually both my Mjölnir-Audio Carbons put a smile on my face) yet I really did not like the Stax T8000. My used carbon was half the price of a new T8000. I use them with an 007MK2.

 

[walakalulu]

Could somebody please summarise the main sonic differences between the BHSE and Mjolners carbon with the 009’s as I would have to buy blind as no demo available. Thanks. I’ve tried Stax (meh) and Trilogy (better but severe high frequency roll off).

 

[Ali-Pacha]

Looks like carbon hits harder in the bass and has more extension, whereas BHSE has sweeter mids (but not as sweet as the T2).
Carbon is a no brainer / plug and play of an amp, BHSE is a tube amp without servo, offset drifting from 20/30v to 0, takes 1h to 2h to be fully stabilized (don't know if one may hear it).
Of course, tube rolling on BHSE. But there are not so much EL34 / 6CA7 references out there, and available ones are well documented on head-fi's thread ( check @TheAttorney posts among others).
Carbon look / finish depends on builder, HeadAmp's BHSE is not really DIY, and may be one of the best looking / built piece of audio gear in the headphones realm.
The latter reason is the main one that made me chose the BHSE, but all the other reasons listed above could point to Carbon.

Other solution : finding or commissionning some DIY T2. And you'll be done with it

Ali

 

[Rhamnetin]

Only thing about the T2 is that it costs around the same as a BHSE and a Carbon combined.