[Me x3]

Hmmm... What is the serial number on your T1? Mine is 24xx. To my ears, I have the brighter one because when I EQed my T1 according to that one, it worked a lot better than the goldenears measurement. Yours seems to have a bump at 2khz which probably makes mids sound much better at stock than mine

Yes, sn.24xx should be like the brighter one.
Mine is sn.168xx.

 

[headdict]

...
Mine's similar to the less bright one but different in the upper midrange. Here you have mine compared with AKG K712:
Pink Trace is the T1 - Green Trace is K712

Mine (S/N 19xxx) sounds similar, but has a much more MASSIVE treble spike centered at 8.5 kHz.

 

[Ahil]

My T1 [#1376] started to sound relatively harsh and sibilant over the past 3 months or so and my ears start to fatigue after barely an hour =[  Which is really disappointing since the reason I loved them so much is because they were the most lush sounding headphones I've ever listened to and I could normally do 6hrs+ of listening without any fatigue.

I've notice the earpads' puffiness have reduced heaps (they're at like 50% of their original volume). Also, the cable on one side has gotten hard and is cracking revealing the wire and the headband is starting to fall apart. These have been my main can's for nearly 7 years so I think its time for some renovation.

I have washed the pads twice since I received the cans, which made a huge difference to the appearance and volume but the leather that holds them to the cups are tearing so  I've ordered some new DT990 pads and the headband from the Custom One Pro. Will be trimming off the hardened and cracking part of the cable and re-soldering, keeping the original cable since its high quality. Might also add some housing and driver dampening to get rid of the harshness and sibilance and to bring the sound closer to the T1.2, if the pad's alone aren't enough to bring it back to it's original glory. Will let you guys know how it goes.
 
 
Pic I took when I first got em:
 

 
 
Using a Yulong D100 DAC-AMP to drive them:

 

[DavidA]

@Ahil, I would suggest a complete re-cable, it wouldn't be long before the rest of the cable starts to become hard a brittle.  And if doing a complete re-cable might also want to consider modding to make them removable with mini-XLR.

 

[Ahil]

I did consider a recable but I don't see the need as once you pass a certain threshold in quality, there wont be a difference in audio signal (which I'm sure the OEM one's satisfy). The stock cable should last me another 5 years easily as it was only the 30cm of cable near the cans that have gotten hard, but i'll be cutting them well below this point where the cable is still soft. I'll also be cleaning the them in very hot water which should pretty much return them to their original softness.
 
I was considering making the cabled detachable but not sure if i really have any use for the function, as cool as it is.

 

[DavidA]

  I did consider a recable but I don't see the need as once you pass a certain threshold in quality, there wont be a difference in audio signal (which I'm sure the OEM one's satisfy). The stock cable should last me another 5 years easily as it was only the 30cm of cable near the cans that have gotten hard, but i'll be cutting them well below this point where the cable is still soft. I'll also be cleaning the them in very hot water which should pretty much return them to their original softness.
 
I was considering making the cabled detachable but not sure if i really have any use for the function, as cool as it is.

For me the removable cable was nice to have since I use then in 2 different places, at my desk in the bedroom where I need only 4ft cable and in the living room where I need about a 9ft cable.  And you are correct, the stock cable is good but since I've been building my own cables using either Mogami or Canare wire and paracord its lighter and less stiff, a comfort issue.

 

[coupeman]

Hi everyone, new here, just looking for a bit of advice. Just bought a pair of BD T1.2, epic cans, love the clarity, however, I use a Fiio E17K to drive them (I need portability) and it just does go loud enough. Is there a more powerful portable Headphone Amp you can recommend?
 
I read that the VMODA Verza was good, but just wanted to ask about before I order anything.
 
Thanks in advance.

 

[Me x3]

  Hi everyone, new here, just looking for a bit of advice. Just bought a pair of BD T1.2, epic cans, love the clarity, however, I use a Fiio E17K to drive them (I need portability) and it just does go loud enough. Is there a more powerful portable Headphone Amp you can recommend?
 
I read that the VMODA Verza was good, but just wanted to ask about before I order anything.
 
Thanks in advance.

FiiO E12 and FiiO A5 are powerful portable amplifiers.
(4 times E17K's power)

 

[HOWIE13]

  Hi everyone, new here, just looking for a bit of advice. Just bought a pair of BD T1.2, epic cans, love the clarity, however, I use a Fiio E17K to drive them (I need portability) and it just does go loud enough. Is there a more powerful portable Headphone Amp you can recommend?
 
I read that the VMODA Verza was good, but just wanted to ask about before I order anything.
 
Thanks in advance.

It's asking a lot of a portable headphone amp to drive a 600ohm impedance headphone to good volume and some headroom to spare, without distortion.
In this instance I would definitely audition before purchasing your amp.

 

[HOWIE13]

  Mine (S/N 19xxx) sounds similar, but has a much more MASSIVE treble spike centered at 8.5 kHz.

 
How do you guys create your headphone frequency graphs?

 

[thatonenoob]

How do you guys create your headphone frequency graphs?

I do describe some part of the process in my z1r review. I'm on mobile right now so it's a lil hard to post it but I'll grab a copy and paste when i get back.

 

[HOWIE13]

I do describe some part of the process in my z1r review. I'm on mobile right now so it's a lil hard to post it but I'll grab a copy and paste when i get back.

 
Appreciate your help. My T1 is 29XXX, just recently purchased, so would be interested to see how it compares.

 

[thatonenoob]

The measurement microphone is the omni-directional UMIK-1 from miniDSP.  It can be purchased for about a 100 dollars USD.  Internally, the box is filled with acoustic foam (easily obtainable from your local specialty source).  The coupler was perhaps the most difficult part to figure out.  There are many documented approaches, and definitely very interesting reading to be done.  In creating the coupler, I opted for a conventional flat plate made from soft polyester covered rubber cut from a mouse pad.  I quickly noticed that this coupling alone made for some very poor measurements, especially in the higher frequencies where it was clear that artifacts were developing in a regular pattern.  Following conventional fixes, I experimented with various diameters of felt, leading to varying degrees of attenuation in the midrange and high frequencies.  I have temporarily settled on a variation of the felt fix, with a smaller piece of circular padding hidden beneath the felt.  Mic is set close to flush with the coupling surface.     

 

[HOWIE13]

  The measurement microphone is the omni-directional UMIK-1 from miniDSP.  It can be purchased for about a 100 dollars USD.  Internally, the box is filled with acoustic foam (easily obtainable from your local specialty source).  The coupler was perhaps the most difficult part to figure out.  There are many documented approaches, and definitely very interesting reading to be done.  In creating the coupler, I opted for a conventional flat plate made from soft polyester covered rubber cut from a mouse pad.  I quickly noticed that this coupling alone made for some very poor measurements, especially in the higher frequencies where it was clear that artifacts were developing in a regular pattern.  Following conventional fixes, I experimented with various diameters of felt, leading to varying degrees of attenuation in the midrange and high frequencies.  I have temporarily settled on a variation of the felt fix, with a smaller piece of circular padding hidden beneath the felt.  Mic is set close to flush with the coupling surface.     

 
Thanks.That's on my Christmas shopping list.
Do you play a frequency sweep file through the headphone from a headphone amp and put the mic, which is connected to a computer, into each headphone cup?

 

[vlach]

FiiO E12 and FiiO A5 are powerful portable amplifiers.
(4 times E17K's power)

This is true. The E12 is very powerful and can easily drive the T1, however i much prefer the refined sound quality of Leckerton portable amps. I own both.