[derbigpr]

  I didn't like the fit of the DT880's. I thought they were too small so my ears were always touching the top of the cup and couldn't get a good seal. Would I have the same problem with the T1's, are they the same size?

 
Nope, T1's have far more spacious cups. DT880's have smaller diameter hole in the earpad and very shallow pads, so your ears have little room. T1's have a slightly bigger diameter hole, but more importable the earcup is cavernous and your ears can go under the earpads if they're so big.

 

[billerb1]

Just got this response for Beyerdynamic USA Service Center after inquiring about possibility of upgrading current T1's:
 
‏
 

question about T1 upgrade

 





 
 


 



 

From:	Service Dept (service@unitedsoundservicesllc.com)
Sent:	Fri 8/07/15 2:14 AM
To:	Bill Erb

 
 
Bill,
I just yesterday got an update. Yes, there is a new T1 Second Generation coming, but unfortunately there is no path to upgrade. Probably would need to buy new and sell existing on eBay or such. Sorry for the bummer,
David

 

[Nikonkit]

I heard the T1 new version at the Hong Kong Hifi show yesterday, the appearance is very similar to the original. The show environment is hardly ideal but with all three T1 version there, I did have a lengthy listening, the latest version sound a little more opened, a touch more incisive in presentation, the cardas cabled limited edition version even without since the balance connection sounded the best. The original T1 is by no means shamed, anyone upgrading from midfi headphones would have been more than pleased already, I am sure the new version have not had similar mileage on it comparing to the other two so that this only as very very initial thoughts

 

[bbball]

Hi new T1 user here. So I saw a lot of people talk about that T1 is a fairly easy to drive can compare to other hard to drive can like HD800 even T1 has 600 ohm impedance. Someone said that the power requirement of T1 is similar to the HD650/600. But there are also a lot poeple saying that T1 is very hard to drive. So I kind of feel confused about this. The amplifier I am using now is project ember, not sure if anyone is using it to drive T1. I am very satisfied to the result already, just curious about what's the main differences between a fully driven T1 and a iPhone driven T1.......And I am also not sure if project ember is powerful enough to give a fully driven sound.

 

[Me x3]

  Hi new T1 user here. So I saw a lot of people talk about that T1 is a fairly easy to drive can compare to other hard to drive can like HD800 even T1 has 600 ohm impedance. Someone said that the power requirement of T1 is similar to the HD650/600. But there are also a lot poeple saying that T1 is very hard to drive. So I kind of feel confused about this. The amplifier I am using now is project ember, not sure if anyone is using it to drive T1. I am very satisfied to the result already, just curious about what's the main differences between a fully driven T1 and a iPhone driven T1.......And I am also not sure if project ember is powerful enough to give a fully driven sound.

 
T1 is quite hard to drive, significantly harder than HD800/HD600/HD650.
Just slightly easier to drive than DT880 600 Ohm.
 
Listening levels and recordings play a very important role. If you listen to music at moderately low levels then there's plenty of amplifiers that can drive the T1, if you listen to music loud, or normally listen to highly dynamic recordings, then you'll a few more volts.
 
I'm not familiarized with your amp specs.

 

[bbball]

   
T1 is quite hard to drive, significantly harder than HD800/HD600/HD650.
Just slightly easier to drive than DT880 600 Ohm.
 
Listening levels and recordings play a very important role. If you listen to music at moderately low levels then there's plenty of amplifiers that can drive the T1, if you listen to music loud, or normally listen to highly dynamic recordings, then you'll a few more volts.
 
I'm not familiarized with your amp specs.

Yeah I agree with you in that point. Moderate volume level do sounds better. The thing is when I turn the volume up, the bass will not scale up like the mid and treble. The project ember maximum output power in 600 ohm would be 400 mw. I saw you are using ASGARD 2, do you think it is powerful enough to drive your T1 ? Have you ever tried it on any other more high-end amps to see any differences?

 

[Me x3]

  Yeah I agree with you in that point. Moderate volume level do sounds better. The thing is when I turn the volume up, the bass will not scale up like the mid and treble. The project ember maximum output power in 600 ohm would be 400 mw. I saw you are using ASGARD 2, do you think it is powerful enough to drive your T1 ? Have you ever tried it on any other more high-end amps to see any differences?

I use it in low gain most of the time.
Sometimes it's not about power but control.
Solidstate amplifiers are well known for having great control and very low distortion all over the spectrum.
 
400mW is plenty of power for the T1
But that doesn't mean much per se.
 
I haven't tried the Project Ember so I can't comment about it
Output impedance play a very important role since the T1 has a huge impedance spike in the mid-bass.
If the Project Ember has a highish output impedance that can cause loose bass.
 
Some tube amplifiers add particular distortion patterns, which can be pleasing with some headphones and not that much with others. Personal preferences are determining.
 
Can you explain this a little bit further?
 

the bass will not scale up like the mid and treble

 

[sahmen]

T1 Cable re-termination options
 
I realize the T1's cable is already internally balanced, but it is terminated with a 1/4 pin.  In order to re-terminate it with a 4 pin male  xlr (balanced) plug, do I need to cut the cables, and solder the replacement plug on, or can I simply use an adapter, such as this one?:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Female-Balanced-Adapter/dp/B0002E53O2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1439161727&sr=8-3&keywords=xlr+to+1%2F4%27+adaptor
 
I need to re-terminate, because the 4-pin xlr balanced outputs on both of my headphone amps deliver a more powerful signal than the TRS outputs.
 
Using the female TRS to Balanced 4-pin XLR adapter plug would be much simpler for me than cutting the cables and soldering the 4-pin termination on, but what I am not sure of is whether using the adapter (instead of the soldered option) would entail a reduction of headphone output power from the amp...  Can anyone explain the difference to me...
 
I am just wondering since the discussions of re-termination which I have read on this thread all seemed to involve cutting and re-soldering the xlr plug, rather than going what appears to be the simpler route of using an adapter. 
 
 
PS. I just realized the adapter in the picture may be 3-pin instead of 4-pin, but the 4-pin one would be more appropriate one.  At any rate, my questions remain the same. Solder or Use an adapter?

 

[bbball]

the bass will not scale up like the mid and treble

 
 
What I mean is that if I use low volume, the bass feels punchy, accurate and extended well. But when I turn up the volume, the mid and treble will become more presented than the bass. The overall sound will become more bright in my opinion. I am not sure if this is because of lacking power or what. Although the bass is lighter, the overall sound is still very accurate without any feel of distortion when the volume is up IMO.

 

[sahmen]

  T1 Cable re-termination options
 
I realize the T1's cable is already internally balanced, but it is terminated with a 1/4 pin.  In order to re-terminate it with a 4 pin male  xlr (balanced) plug, do I need to cut the cables, and solder the replacement plug on, or can I simply use an adapter, such as this one?:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Female-Balanced-Adapter/dp/B0002E53O2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1439161727&sr=8-3&keywords=xlr+to+1%2F4%27+adaptor
 
I need to re-terminate, because the 4-pin xlr balanced outputs on both of my headphone amps deliver a more powerful signal than the TRS outputs.
 
Using the female TRS to Balanced 4-pin XLR adapter plug would be much simpler for me than cutting the cables and soldering the 4-pin termination on, but what I am not sure of is whether using the adapter (instead of the soldered option) would entail a reduction of headphone output power from the amp...  Can anyone explain the difference to me...
 
I am just wondering since the discussions of re-termination which I have read on this thread all seemed to involve cutting and re-soldering the xlr plug, rather than going what appears to be the simpler route of using an adapter. 
 
 
PS. I just realized the adapter in the picture may be 3-pin instead of 4-pin, but the 4-pin one would be more appropriate one.  At any rate, my questions remain the same. Solder or Use an adapter?

Never mind... I have heard from another source that this is not a bright idea.  Thanks anyway

 

[heart banger-97]

  Never mind... I have heard from another source that this is not a bright idea.  Thanks anyway

Can you explain more?
I was thinking about getting nfb28 as a balance dac/amp and use the procedure that you described to make my T1 balance. Why it's not a good idea?

 

[NoPainNoGain]

T1 Cable re-termination options
Using the female TRS to Balanced 4-pin XLR adapter plug would be much simpler for me than cutting the cables and soldering the 4-pin termination on, but what I am not sure of is whether using the adapter (instead of the soldered option) would entail a reduction of headphone output power from the amp...  Can anyone explain the difference to me...

Balansed connection is:
R+
R-
L+
L-
In stock cable R- and L- soldering to the 6.3 mm plug
If you connect your T1 to amplifiers balansed output with this 3-pin xlr adapter, you will receive R+ signal in right channel and R- in left. Or L+ and L-, if you connect to the left channel balansed output of ur HA. This is not balansed connection, in addition its worse than stereo and worse than mono!

 

[sahmen]

  Can you explain more?
I was thinking about getting nfb28 as a balance dac/amp and use the procedure that you described to make my T1 balance. Why it's not a good idea?

 
Here are responses I got from a different thread (http://www.head-fi.org/t/769986/three-new-amps-on-preorder-from-audio-gd-c-2-11th-anniversary-edition-nfb-1amp-nfb-3amp/285#post_11825640):
 
************************
Originally Posted by aamefford /img/forum/go_quote.gif


I'm pretty sure that is a bad idea, as you end up connecting the left and right - connectors together, each of which have dedicated amp sections. You also get none of the benefit of a balanced set up, and I think have a pretty real chance of letting the magic smoke out of your amp. I've never had success putting the magic smoke back in without new parts…
 
************************
Originally Posted by Solude 

You can use an adapter to change the headphone from balanced to single ended but not the other way around.  If you use an adapter to plug a single ended headphone into a balanced connection you get BOOM!
 
*********************
 

That's a better way of describing bass slam. 

***********
 
In short, they think using such an adapter is only a great way to get one's amp possibly fried.

 

[heart banger-97]

Thanks,
But I was talking about cutting the 6.3mm plug and re terminate the cable with xlr plug. 

 

 

[Hansotek]

  Thanks,
But I was talking about cutting the 6.3mm plug and re terminate the cable with xlr plug. 

 

 
There are actually six wires running through the cable. This allows you to terminate into single-ended, 3-pin XLR or 4-pin XLR. This link ought to help you figure out which wires are which and how to wire an appropriate balanced connection. (See post 10 for explanation (linked) and 12 for pictures.)
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/509021/beyerdynamic-t1-cable-connection-mod#post_6887713