Law87
Headphoneus Supremus
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anyone know where I can buy the 2nd gen earpad? or if anyone got extra the way to sale me?
The Official Beyerdynamic T1 Impressions and Discussion Thread
borrego
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Law87
Headphoneus Supremus
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need to be in the U.S
Hi, how did this cable hold up for you? is it very stiff? I wanted to build a silver cable with stranded neotech silver but I heard silver is very brittle and with such a low number strands and no typical cotton reinforcement like you find in headphone cables it felt like bad idea but you are using solid! I would much prefer solid to stranded but what you're doing is even better, like a very basic form of litz that doesnt cost an absolute fortune.Hi L...long time no speak - hope you're doin' OK......
No...no Sqaulene for me lol! - just remove any and all adapter/connections possible(!), and treat oneself to UPOCC silver and copper-wired cable.... my surprise at its credentials in interconnects has now been compounded by the results of my finished HP cable using same. At first I didn't think the improvement to match that of taking the UPOCC interconnects directly to my amp's signal wires, even though quite substantial. However, after 24hrs' continuous burn-in, my T1s (via Euforia tube amp) have taken yet another big leap in performance, and confirm just what these cans are capable of given the right feeds downstream lol! That this wire can easily outperform 'ordinary' pure silver and good quality copper, and have these Beyers deliver such a clear, detailed, tonally rich...and yes, smooth etc. sound, has taken me aback big time. I now much prefer what my system is giving to what I heard at CanJam London recently from the Utopias out of Feliks-Audio's Euforia there. I can only surmise that one's money is MUCH better spent on upgrading power conditioning/source/DAC and amp...not forgetting UPOCC cables, of course!!...and staying with the T1s (gen1). The 'experimental' second pair I got off ebay (in extremely good condition) cost me just £350, and the 24m of Neotech UPOCC silver and copper wires (solid) just over £300...together, not too big an expense for such wonderful sound lol! But you'll need average soldering skills...or a very good friend who does!
Given the generally accepted high quality (and performance) of the stock cable, I was somewhat surprised (nay, dismayed!) at what I found on dissection...ie. the bulk of the cable is in fact shielding...which some have advocated disconnecting from the return anyway!! The signal wires can't be any more than (stranded) 0.5mm copper each, which is tiny in my book. And so it's no wonder that any good quality solid wire - silver or copper - should be able to outperform it! My own choice - based on that used by hyper-expensive cable makers - was a total of 12 wires, with the equivalent of 0.97mm silver + 0.55mm copper each per signal and return...with the superior material, of course!
A couple of photos to give some idea of what I'm talking about......with stock for comparison...
Luckily, the cable ended up much less bulky and lighter than anticipated, given all these wires lol!! And side by side...no contest in the content stakes...just as in the final performance stakes!...and that's with the jack plug attached - can't imagine what's in store when I take this cable direct to the amp's internals lol!...
And so, the final outcome of all this?...I now have no desire whatsoever to oust my (2!) sets of T1 (gen1)...their true potential is WAY above what is, unfortunately, too often attained, and has me wondering why oh why did Beyer not put a much better cable on them in the first place - not to mention swappable? The cynic in me says...so you will want/need to spend a good bit more in the near future on yet another (improved) version, as per usual commercial tactics...(??!!)...hmmm....CHEERS!...
Hi Acke. Nice to see someone having a go at saving themselves a fortune by making their own cable from the (IMO) exceedingly good mono-crystal Neotech UP-OCC wire - I dread to think how much you'd have to pay for anything similar to the 12-wire one I put together lol!
And I too prefer solid wires, over stranded...although I've never done a proper A/B comparison with equivalent totals of AWG single-crystal wire, using the same headphones and connectors...(I doubt very few - if anyone! - have actually done so!). But enough knowledgeable folks have stated this preference for me to follow suit....
As for holding up...I've had no problems whatsoever, thank goodness! UP-OCC silver wire certainly is more pliable than even soft-annealed 99.9% pure silver (which actually makes very good cable, and much cheaper), and I wouldn't want to work with bare wire inserted into teflon tubing, which is what I did previously with said 'ordinary' wire....it doesn't take too much bending back and forth for it to snap! However, the Neotech cable is already covered (tightly) with teflon, so only exposed sections of wire need to be handled more carefully...(but still a good idea not to 'kink' it if possible).
As I didn't twist my wires very much, the cable isn't too stiff...but not as flexible as a proper Litz (or Kimber) braid, which I wouldn't want to even try to do lol! And I take comfort from having read that one doesn't normally need anything more than a light twist anyway...and have never had any isolation/interference issues with any I've made for either headphones or interconnects (in fact the much cheaper ICs I made outperformed my expensive ArtisanSilver ones that have said fancy braiding).
So I wish you all the best in your own endeavour, and hope you don't encounter any real problems. It can be tricky attaching multiple wires to the plug, and I always like to try and make metal-to-metal contact before soldering...plenty of heat needed on all surfaces to avoid 'dry' joints of course, as they haven't been primed with solder first. Also, if at all possible, I try to help maintain good contact before - and during - soldering by tying the surfaces together with fine wire. I may be being over-cautious here, but I've always hated the thought of introducing too much solder in between otherwise nice metals...just as I like removing as many connectors as possible throughout the signal chain (but not for the faint-hearted!!
)....CHEERS!...CJps. If lack of shielding is a bit of a worry, I notice Hi-Fi Collective here in the UK now have a flexible covering that is supposed to offer a bit more protection, and is still very cheap...
Great advice, I also try to remove as many non solder connections as possible, putting aside the huge price difference between a bit of silver solder and high end plugs/sockets its still a better electrical connection. its helps to do this for power aswell, not nearly as sigificant improvement but power doesnt usually ever need to disconnected unlike headphones or ampsHi Acke. Nice to see someone having a go at saving themselves a fortune by making their own cable from the (IMO) exceedingly good mono-crystal Neotech UP-OCC wire - I dread to think how much you'd have to pay for anything similar to the 12-wire one I put together lol!
And I too prefer solid wires, over stranded...although I've never done a proper A/B comparison with equivalent totals of AWG single-crystal wire, using the same headphones and connectors...(I doubt very few - if anyone! - have actually done so!). But enough knowledgeable folks have stated this preference for me to follow suit....
As for holding up...I've had no problems whatsoever, thank goodness! UP-OCC silver wire certainly is more pliable than even soft-annealed 99.9% pure silver (which actually makes very good cable, and much cheaper), and I wouldn't want to work with bare wire inserted into teflon tubing, which is what I did previously with said 'ordinary' wire....it doesn't take too much bending back and forth for it to snap! However, the Neotech cable is already covered (tightly) with teflon, so only exposed sections of wire need to be handled more carefully...(but still a good idea not to 'kink' it if possible).
As I didn't twist my wires very much, the cable isn't too stiff...but not as flexible as a proper Litz (or Kimber) braid, which I wouldn't want to even try to do lol! And I take comfort from having read that one doesn't normally need anything more than a light twist anyway...and have never had any isolation/interference issues with any I've made for either headphones or interconnects (in fact the much cheaper ICs I made outperformed my expensive ArtisanSilver ones that have said fancy braiding).
So I wish you all the best in your own endeavour, and hope you don't encounter any real problems. It can be tricky attaching multiple wires to the plug, and I always like to try and make metal-to-metal contact before soldering...plenty of heat needed on all surfaces to avoid 'dry' joints of course, as they haven't been primed with solder first. Also, if at all possible, I try to help maintain good contact before - and during - soldering by tying the surfaces together with fine wire. I may be being over-cautious here, but I've always hated the thought of introducing too much solder in between otherwise nice metals...just as I like removing as many connectors as possible throughout the signal chain (but not for the faint-hearted!!
ps. If lack of shielding is a bit of a worry, I notice Hi-Fi Collective here in the UK now have a flexible covering that is supposed to offer a bit more protection, and is still very cheap...
I got a pair of these (gen 1) used for €300 today and they are amazing for this price. I can see how some people can have issues with the treble, its forward and slightly peaky but incredibly refined and clean. Really this is how a TOTL HP should be, unforgiving to bad gear but rewarding for the good stuff. They happen to be the brightest and also smoothest headphone Ive heard... even the HD650 is harsh and wooly in comparison. bass and mids are perfect for me, equally as refined and smooth, great extension, coupled with exceptional imaging and soundstage makes for a near perfect headphone.
The speed of these was unexpected, my god these are fast, planars are supposed to be fast but... they dont come close. Aphex Twin and Venetian Snares will give you a genuine adrenaline rush.
Could this be the ''Tesla'' drivers?
The speed of these was unexpected, my god these are fast, planars are supposed to be fast but... they dont come close. Aphex Twin and Venetian Snares will give you a genuine adrenaline rush.
Could this be the ''Tesla'' drivers?
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vlach
Headphoneus Supremus
It gets even better with a good tube amp. The T1 is a lean headphone and tubes give it more fullness and bloom in the midrange.
thats the next step after a silver cable I think. Would you say tubes offer better resolution in some ways aswell?
vlach
Headphoneus Supremus
In my experience tubes sacrifice a little bit of resolution and usually roll off both ends of the frequency spectrum in exchange for a juicier midrange with more of a 3D effect...but...if any headphone can afford to lose some resolution it is definitely the T1.
Sometimes 1+1=3
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Congrats on that superlative purchase, Acke. I myself bought a second pair (used) for relative peanuts, as insurance against having problems replacing the 'unreplaceable' cable of my original pair lol! Luckily I didn't blow the drivers, but I'm so glad to now have that spare pair of T1s...despite (or perhaps because of!!) that treble 'anomaly'. Which has never really bothered me, for the reasons you mentioned. And now, with most connectors gone (I am so glad I'm not the only 'crazy' guy out there who finds this to be true!) - and especially since using Neotech UP-OCC solid silver and copper wires throughout my tube amp system, even the occasional over-bright recording holds no fears whatsoever!
And while many tube amps can indeed 'over-colour' the sound sometimes, if one can find just the right combination of all the elements in one's system, resolution can still be first class, and with very minimal roll-off indeed at either extreme of the FR. But one does need to be lucky...I myself have been experimenting for several years to attain the 'impossible', and have finally approached what I personally regard as a satisfactory fusion of tube merits and those of SS...at least to my own satisfaction lol!
Good luck with the silver cable, by the way...
karel88l
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I screwed my life :/ I broke one of my T1 drivers.There are 2 super tiny wires coming from driver and I accidently cutted them off.Any idea how to repair it ?
marek17
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You would have ordered a new drivers. These thin wires would not fix by soldering.
You are from CZ?
T1 Drivers (1g/2g) Elvia Praha - ~300€
Drivers are ordering in Pair(balanced Pair)
You are from CZ?
T1 Drivers (1g/2g) Elvia Praha - ~300€
Drivers are ordering in Pair(balanced Pair)
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What where you doing that caused you to cut the wires? I'm just curious since I did mod my T1gen1, DT990 premium and a friend's T1gen1 with mini-XLR jacks but didn't get anywhere near the tiny wires.
karel88l
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Probably because I was cleaning drivers with compressed air (there was metal dust attached to magnet and I didnt knew about these wires).Now the coil inside that magnet ring is cutted off from port - driver is destroyed.https://www.imgup.cz/image/LfHx Pretty expensive experience unfortunately.
If anybody know where to get these drivers cheaper let me know or if you have only 1 functional
If anybody know where to get these drivers cheaper let me know or if you have only 1 functional
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