The "Lovely Cube" Headphone Amp (Lehmann Black Cube Linear Clone)
Nov 3, 2013 at 11:45 PM Post #1,083 of 1,624
Hi linhhonlangdu, i'm fine :)
 
You can't swap the transistors with each other. The BD139 is a NPN and the BD140 is a PNP transistor & changing them will possibly cause a short circuit  !DANGER! :)
 
And the other question... yes, they are using nearly the same circuit. But as you know, you can buy a 100$ "no name Clone", a 225$ Lovely Cube, a 225+$ M-stage or a original Lehmann Linear for over 700+$. Just imagine how big the chance is, that the clones are at the same or a better quality level. So my second answer is also -> no :wink:
 
kind regards,
nippon   
 
Nov 5, 2013 at 11:44 PM Post #1,084 of 1,624
I took a little hiatus from being a head-fi'er so it's been a while since I've checked in on this thread. I'm happy to see it's still going strong after all these years.
Sometime this week I'll catch up on all the posts and update the links on the first post.
 
Nov 17, 2013 at 11:21 PM Post #1,086 of 1,624
Finally gathering the last pieces, and will start case building soon. 
 
With a little luck, I'll get it wrapped up and running this week. 
 
Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM Post #1,088 of 1,624
Bah - life happened. It now looks unlikely until after the holidays. 
 
Jan 4, 2014 at 4:58 AM Post #1,089 of 1,624
Hi,
and thanks to the grate boys starting this thread. I bought a pcb and did a part list as here:
 
part no.
value
X
component
1200808
2.2UF, 400V, EPCOS - B32654
2
C6, C7
1413949
2.2NF, 1%, 250V, VISHAY KP1830
2
C6, C7
1198551
6800 uF 50v, PANASONIC TS-HA
2
C8, C9
1166009
0.15 uF 100v, MKT Vishay BC
4
C1, C2, C3, C4, C5
1166009
0.15 uF 100v, MKT Vishay BC
4
C10, C12, C13, C15
1848452
480 uF 35v, PANA FC, 10mm D
6
C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21
9520660
100 pF 1% 630V, Polystyrene
2
C24, C25
9520430
22NF, 63V, Polystyrene
2
C22, C23
 
 
 
 
eBay
10 uf 35v Tantalum
2
C11, C14
 
 
 
 
 
VISHAY MBB02070 0.6 W ± 1 %
 
 
60-591-57
4.7 Ω
4
R1, R2, R3, R4
 
7 Ω
1
R5
60-591-98
220 Ω
2
R6, R8
18C6023
BZX85-C13 13V, 1.3W, parallel x2
4
R7, R9
60-591-81
47 Ω
8
R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17
60-592-19
1.5 k
4
R18, R19, R20, R21
60-592-23
2.2 k
3
R22, R27, R34
60-592-10
680 Ω
2
R23, R26
60-592-31
4.7 k
2
R24, R25
60-592-39
10 k
2
R28, R29
60-591-76
30 Ω 0.6 W ± 1% (10 Ω 2W)
12
R30, R31, R32, R33
 
 
 
 
70-096-07
BYV27/200, Philips
4
D1, D2, D3, D4
1084508
BD139-16
2
Q5, Q7
1084566
BD140-16
2
Q6, Q8
71-014-64
BC550C
2
Q3, Q4
71-014-66
BC560C
2
Q1, Q2
2102581
LM317T, FAIRCHILD 1.2V to 37V
1
U1
1013829
LM337T, FAIRCHILD -1.2V to 37V
1
U2
 
Your favorite OPAMP ex LME49720HA
1
U3
 
Your favorite LED
1
 
 
Code switch
2
SW1, SW2
eBay
50 k DACT Type SMD Stepped Attenuator, my favorite!
1
VR1
1611441
HEATSINK, TO-220, 24.4C/W
6
 
 
3.5MM JACK, 3POLE
1
 
9531726
MULTICOMP, 2 X 15V, 30VA
1
 
 
the parts are chosen from this thread as well. the part-numbers are from Farnell or Elfa in Europe. The component numbers are referd to this image from post #9468165
 
Hope this can be useful to somebody.
 
Bests/Amir
 
Jan 7, 2014 at 8:28 AM Post #1,091 of 1,624
Hi  Amir,
 
i have never seen this type of pcb by myself so you have to show me the otherside. Otherwise i could only guess whats wright or wrong.
The partlist seems ok so far. I would suggest to match the resistors - so order a few more of each kind. You can never have enough resistors :wink:
 
kind regards,
nippon
 
Jan 10, 2014 at 2:30 PM Post #1,092 of 1,624
thanks nippon, but I can not upload pix:
Your account does not have the required permissions to access this page.
 
Any way, I measured again there is 9.9v AC + 6.6v DC, thought something wrong with the BYV27/200's, after an R-core trafo or .... Changing them to 1N4007 still the same result!!! Getting mad. Any idea? Thanks.
 
Regards
 
Jan 13, 2014 at 9:11 AM Post #1,093 of 1,624
Hey Amir,
you can take a picture and upload it to a free image hoster in the www. You get a link to the picture which you can post here.
 
Without seeing your pcb i guess:
1.The transformer is wired and/or not working correctly -> so take apart your build an check the transformer when it is connected to the energy socket. Compare your messurements with the data of the manufactur if possible. (Are you using an 2x +15V trafo? Than without connection there should be a reading of 2x +16-18V. Also double check your wiring and take care of your own safety!!!)
2. Check your PCB and you solderconnections. Have you checked all diodes before installing them? Have you checked the capacitors in the power area?. And of course the pcb may have some issues :)
 
Bye the way -> it is normal that 18V AC are not equal to the DC output. The energy has to change their waves to become linear.
 
So inform us what is going on with your Lovley Cube clone project! :wink:
 
Kind Regards,
Nippon
 
Jan 18, 2014 at 5:57 AM Post #1,095 of 1,624
ohhhh it works. the main problem was the lousy output jack from Farnell "SCHURTER 3.5MM JACK, 3POLE". do not buy it. its beautiful and gold plated but big gap. I took it away from the part list.
 
the cube sounds now. fine too.
 
but  still a voltage difference. as the photo.
 

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