[GREQ]

  Sennheiser HD 222 (600 Ω)

DO NOT OPEN. 
Learn from my mistake. This was headphone wasn't designed to be opened. 
The Baffle plate is glued into the the Voice-Coil area. Whoever designed this was a total idiot, there was no need to glue it. 
What a waste, so unhappy that I wrecked these. 

Thanks for sharing. 
This totally puts off any interest I had in the HD230, which wasn't that much to start with since I've read that it sounds awful

 

[MrTechAgent]

  Thanks for sharing. 
This totally puts off any interest I had in the HD230, which wasn't that much to start with since I've read that it sounds awful

Yup, it sounded pretty bad but I think some corrections could have fixed it easily. 
I think it's a HD414 driver slapped onto a new body. 

 

[GREQ]

I think it's a HD414 driver slapped onto a new body. 

Really? looks more like HD430 driver.
I think HD414 drivers are smaller, no? Also there should be a CLEAR difference in audio quality/resolution between an HD414 driver and what looks like an HD430 (??)

 

[Naim.F.C]

 
Yup, it sounded pretty bad but I think some corrections could have fixed it easily. 
I think it's a HD414 driver slapped onto a new body. 

 
When you say corrections, what do you actually mean? I hear you talk about frequency corrections routinely on your YT channel, but I'm unaware of your actual correcting process. Also, what frequency response do you actually strive towards that you deem as "corrected"?

 

[MrTechAgent]

   
When you say corrections, what do you actually mean? I hear you talk about frequency corrections routinely on your YT channel, but I'm unaware of your actual correcting process. Also, what frequency response do you actually strive towards that you deem as "corrected"?

Good question.
Corrections will be variable for the individuals mainly because of HRTF differences, hence I'm not a huge advocate of fixed curves as they are incorrect, they will serve as a good reference but that's where it's significance ends. 
Corrections will also differ from coupling nature of the System because of the nature of Wave transmission, certain frequencies won't have much impact overall due to the dispersion characteristics.
 
You can correct with tools as simple as a normal EQs to Parametric EQs and even filters with specific compensation curves. 
There are many AES articles which go more deep into correction and I suggest going through those, I'm not sure if they are Open-Access though, you need to be a Member.  

 

[MrTechAgent]

  Really? looks more like HD430 driver.
I think HD414 drivers are smaller, no? Also there should be a CLEAR difference in audio quality/resolution between an HD414 driver and what looks like an HD430 (??)

Hmm, perhaps. 
Will never know, as I killed it before I could compare it to my 50th Annie HD414.

 

[MrTechAgent]

Ah, the joys of owning an R10. 
Today it decided to take it's panties off. While listening, the EarPads slid from their original position. It had been quite a while since I had time time to listen to them and in that brief period of exposure to the environment, the glue became extremely runny. 
Lucky, I didn't panic in the angst of horror and was able to clean some of the foam debris and re-glue the EarPads, they should be more robust with the Thermoplastic seal.

Unfortunately, some foam did find it's way into the Driver although there is no difference audibly even at high excursion.
It was very difficult to completely clean the Baffle area as the foam was very, very sticky. Only way I think that **** would break free would be if I put it under a tap.
Washed the Driver cover and re-sealed the EarPads. Now they are well fitted, much better than before where there were some spots for the dust to enter.

All in all, SCREW FOAM (Destroyer of Classic Headphones)




 

 



 

 

[Whitigir]

Doh...that face after realizing that you have some broken foam in your drivers ? Good experiences sir

 

[MrTechAgent]

Doh...that face after realizing that you have some broken foam in your drivers ?

Good experiences sir

LOL. Well, what u gon' do.
I think R10's constant component failure gives it character, it's almost as if it should have been Italian. That would have been appropriate!

 

[PETEREK]

IE800

 

[PETEREK]

This wasn't nearly as hard to take apart as I expected.

 

[Feilong4]

Didn't realize there was a thread for this until now.
 
I found some old photos of when I still had the ATH-AD2000. I didn't really take the drivers off of its frame as I didn't want to accidentally damage anything.
 
They were AD2000 drivers modded into an AD700X frame. I did not do the mod.
 

 

 

[MrTechAgent]

Aiwa HP-500

I have HP-500 parts for sale if anyone is interested - http://www.head-fi.org/t/838298/aiwa-hp-500-working-transducer-parts
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MrTechAgent]

STAX SR-Sigma (NB)


 

 

 

 

[Balue]

A some grainy photos of driver from an AKG 323. The 5mm diameter driver tested the macros of my camera.
The front side shot:

A direct front shot:

The "dark side":

And a side shot:


These were great ear pins but started to buzz after two solid years of abuse. I have some other good cans none quite as versatile while sounding as good as these did... and for 53 bones would definitely buy again.