[SmittyHalibut]

I need some help from someone more technically minded than me. I am looking to order the 2170 system direct from Japan to the UK, I am having trouble working out which transformer I need, I'm assuming I need a step up transformer from 100v to 230 but I am unsure of the wattage rating? It seems the energiser is 100w with a max output of 280w is that correct? So a transformer rated at 300w should be ok? Thanks in advance if you can help.

You'll actually be much better served by getting a 12vDC power supply locally for your local AC, rather than try to convert from your local voltage to the 100vAC used in Japan. I grabbed a 12vDC 1A wall wart I had lying around and it works great.

Couple things to note:
1: some switching wall warts can be a little noisy; some can be A LOT noisy. So get a good one. Or get a regulated supply (aka linear) and be done with it. Over sizing the current (amps) will make it a little less noisy. (I'm using a switcher from an old NetGear router and my tinnitus ears can't hear any noise.)
2: the Amp that comes with the 2170 uses a reverse polarity power connector! That is, positive is on the outside of the barrel plug, negative on the inside. This is backwards from most power supplies. If you can't find one that's already reverse, then you can get a normal one, cut the cable, reverse the wires, and solder then tape/heat shrink them to cover them back up. Then, ya know, clearly Mark it so you don't use it somewhere else and blow up the other device.

 

[Tinkerer]

I need some help from someone more technically minded than me. I am looking to order the 2170 system direct from Japan to the UK, I am having trouble working out which transformer I need, I'm assuming I need a step up transformer from 100v to 230 but I am unsure of the wattage rating? It seems the energiser is 100w with a max output of 280w is that correct? So a transformer rated at 300w should be ok? Thanks in advance if you can help.

 
To add to what the other poster said, you can get a global switching power supply from Spritzer for $35 as well

 

[noxa]

You'll actually be much better served by getting a 12vDC power supply locally for your local AC, rather than try to convert from your local voltage to the 100vAC used in Japan. I grabbed a 12vDC 1A wall wart I had lying around and it works great.

Couple things to note:
1: some switching wall warts can be a little noisy; some can be A LOT noisy. So get a good one. Or get a regulated supply (aka linear) and be done with it. Over sizing the current (amps) will make it a little less noisy. (I'm using a switcher from an old NetGear router and my tinnitus ears can't hear any noise.)
2: the Amp that comes with the 2170 uses a reverse polarity power connector! That is, positive is on the outside of the barrel plug, negative on the inside. This is backwards from most power supplies. If you can't find one that's already reverse, then you can get a normal one, cut the cable, reverse the wires, and solder then tape/heat shrink them to cover them back up. Then, ya know, clearly Mark it so you don't use it somewhere else and blow up the other device.

Thanks for the help! I was under the impression that the actual amp was the issue but it's actually just the supply then? So essentially it's just a wall wart that needs to be changed? Sorry to sound a bit stupid but can you perhaps post a link to the kind of thing I would need to buy just to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Thanks again for your help.

 

[SmittyHalibut]

Thanks for the help! I was under the impression that the actual amp was the issue but it's actually just the supply then? So essentially it's just a wall wart that needs to be changed? Sorry to sound a bit stupid but can you perhaps post a link to the kind of thing I would need to buy just to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Thanks again for your help.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/JnDee-Supply-ADAPTER-Transformer-TRANSFORMER/dp/B00CXYNV48/ is an example of one with a UK plug on it.  Note, though, that that one is a "normal" polarity, meaning positive in the middle and negative on the outside.  The 2107 requires a reverse polarity from that: positive on the outside, negative in the middle.  So you'll need to cut the cable, reverse and resolder the wires, then wrap them with heat shrink or tape to keep them from shorting out.
 
Or, if you'd rather, you can buy some plugs: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Plastic-Cover-2-1x5-5mm-Connector/dp/B00DUW4EMU/ and just solder a new plug on the cable.  Personally, I find soldering to those 2.1mm plugs to be a pain in the butt, and I have spools of heat shrink in my work space, so I go for cable splicing.  But it's personal preference.
 
Just make sure the connector has positive on the outside and negative on the inside before you connect it to the amp.

 

[Tinkerer]

Thanks for the help! I was under the impression that the actual amp was the issue but it's actually just the supply then? So essentially it's just a wall wart that needs to be changed? Sorry to sound a bit stupid but can you perhaps post a link to the kind of thing I would need to buy just to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Thanks again for your help.

 
The amp operates off 12VDC. That's all you need to feed it no matter wherever you are. The power supply is external (the wall wart is the supply that converts the outlet AC to DC) So you need to make sure you have a decent 12VDC wall wart that can provide enough current to run it. You also need to make sure the polarity of the round plug is correct (reversed for the stax amp with the barrel being positive and the pin being negative).
 
Like he said, you probably have one laying around that might be good enough quality. Maybe an old router or external hard drive wall wart or something that just needs the wires flipped on the barrel plug.
 
And if that's too much trouble you can always grab a wall wart already wired and ready to go from Iceland http://www.mjolnir-audio.com/diy-supplies/
 
You can actually get a stepdown transformer too, but the price and size is more than it would be to just outright buy the correct power supply for the thing. That's a more a solution for the bigger amps if you don't have the skill to rewire their internal transformer.

 

[noxa]

Ok that makes sense now, thanks to both of you for all the help, it's greatly appreciated.

 

[mysticstryk]

I can get a Stax 2170 setup for $500 off amazon theses days.  How would this headphone compare to my current setup with my HD650 and 400i?

 

[miceblue]

I had the chance to hear a HD650 at a local meet while using the LH Labs Pulse X Infinity DAC/amp. The HD650's soundstage is much more closed in comparison to the SRS-2170, which was the most obvious thing I noted and I didn't really like it. The HD650 also has its signature warmth, which the SRS-2170 lacks. I personally never really liked that warmth since it was too warm. The treble also sounds grainy compared to the STAX, though less harsh.

 

[mysticstryk]

I had the chance to hear a HD650 at a local meet while using the LH Labs Pulse X Infinity DAC/amp. The HD650's soundstage is much more closed in comparison to the SRS-2170, which was the most obvious thing I noted and I didn't really like it. The HD650 also has its signature warmth, which the SRS-2170 lacks. I personally never really liked that warmth since it was too warm. The treble also sounds grainy compared to the STAX, though less harsh.

 
How does the bass and bass extension compare?

 

[Michgelsen]

  I can get a Stax 2170 setup for $500 off amazon theses days.  How would this headphone compare to my current setup with my HD650 and 400i?

 
It will completely trounce it, that is, if you like the different sound signature. For $500 the 2170 system is an absolute bargain.
 
I owned the HD650, and a good friend of mine has the 2170 system. I also owned the Stax SR-202, and my father has the 2050 system, which are very similar to the current SR-207 and 2170 system.
 
The 207 has a very balanced frequency spectrum, which is different from the HD650, which is clearly tilted to the bass side, giving it its warmth but also what's commonly referred to as 'veil'. This means that the HD650 has much more bass than the 207, but it is a loose, warm bass. In comparison, the 207 has a much more controlled and precise bass. I can't say which one goes deeper. Both go deep enough. Nothing is lacking, that's for sure. The main difference is the control of the electrostat, giving you much more definition in the bass. For me, this is a reason to never go back to dynamics anymore, although I haven't heard the best of the best there. The feeling that bass alone can have a soundstage and depth, standing loose in space, is something that I have never experienced with dynamics. That is a definite plus side to the bass of the 2170. The HD650 seems to just pump out bass in comparison, not giving you all the information there is.
 
The 207 is by no means bright. Some people have a tendency to call bright headphones 'neutral' as a euphemism, but I don't. I mean it when I think the 207 is neutral. It does not lack bass, nor does it give you too much highs. Since the HD650 is not neutral (it is very warm sounding), this will be the main difference. On top of this difference, the electrostat simple presents MUCH more details and soundstage information. Add to that the more neutral presentation, and you will be astounded by the total difference in details, airyness, lack of grain, and ease of presentation. It sounds as if the music is simply there, without a transducer producing it. This is the main advantage of an electrostat. Try it. For $500, you will barely loose any money, if any, if you resell the system later. I think you have nothing to loose, but a lot to gain.
 
To be fair: one thing I do think the HD650 does better is its lovely sweet midrange. Voices and violins for example are great through the HD650.
 
I hope this helps.

 

[mysticstryk]

   
It will completely trounce it, that is, if you like the different sound signature. For $500 the 2170 system is an absolute bargain.
 
I owned the HD650, and a good friend of mine has the 2170 system. I also owned the Stax SR-202, and my father has the 2050 system, which are very similar to the current SR-207 and 2170 system.
 
The 207 has a very balanced frequency spectrum, which is different from the HD650, which is clearly tilted to the bass side, giving it its warmth but also what's commonly referred to as 'veil'. This means that the HD650 has much more bass than the 207, but it is a loose, warm bass. In comparison, the 207 has a much more controlled and precise bass. I can't say which one goes deeper. Both go deep enough. Nothing is lacking, that's for sure. The main difference is the control of the electrostat, giving you much more definition in the bass. For me, this is a reason to never go back to dynamics anymore, although I haven't heard the best of the best there. The feeling that bass alone can have a soundstage and depth, standing loose in space, is something that I have never experienced with dynamics. That is a definite plus side to the bass of the 2170. The HD650 seems to just pump out bass in comparison, not giving you all the information there is.
 
The 207 is by no means bright. Some people have a tendency to call bright headphones 'neutral' as a euphemism, but I don't. I mean it when I think the 207 is neutral. It does not lack bass, nor does it give you too much highs. Since the HD650 is not neutral (it is very warm sounding), this will be the main difference. On top of this difference, the electrostat simple presents MUCH more details and soundstage information. Add to that the more neutral presentation, and you will be astounded by the total difference in details, airyness, lack of grain, and ease of presentation. It sounds as if the music is simply there, without a transducer producing it. This is the main advantage of an electrostat. Try it. For $500, you will barely loose any money, if any, if you resell the system later. I think you have nothing to loose, but a lot to gain.
 
To be fair: one thing I do think the HD650 does better is its lovely sweet midrange. Voices and violins for example are great through the HD650.
 
I hope this helps.

 
Thank you, it helps a lot actually.  My main concern with getting a VERY neutral headphone is how it will sound with the type of music I listen too.  Mainly symphonic metal, ambient, symphonies and a few others in my profile.  Could you shed any light on how these would perform for these genres?  I'm glad to see these are not a "bright" headphone.  My ears tend to be pretty sensitive to harshness and sibilance.  For instance, on my 400i (which is considered slightly warmer than neutral) I have to EQ down the 8khz spike to avoid fatigue.
 
EDIT: One other question: These pretty comfortable and built to last?

 

[Michgelsen]

   
Thank you, it helps a lot actually.  My main concern with getting a VERY neutral headphone is how it will sound with the type of music I listen too.  Mainly symphonic metal, ambient, symphonies and a few others in my profile.  Could you shed any light on how these would perform for these genres?  I'm glad to see these are not a "bright" headphone.  My ears tend to be pretty sensitive to harshness and sibilance.  For instance, on my 400i (which is considered slightly warmer than neutral) I have to EQ down the 8khz spike to avoid fatigue.
 
EDIT: One other question: These pretty comfortable and built to last?

 
 
I can't say how you will like it with symphonic metal. Some people like their metal with a lot of bass, I personally don't. Less bass brings out more of the voices, guitars and synths, but less of the rhythm. It's personal.
While the HD650 is pretty good with classical because of its warmth and sweet midrange, symphonies and other full, 'crowded' music is where electrostats really shine. Precision is the magic word here. Because there is so much control over the featherlight diaphragm, the sound doesn't clog up when there are a lot of instruments playing at the same time. This is a benefit with symphonies. Both headphones give a slightly different presentation. The HD650 is more like an old opera house with lots of textiles on the walls, muffling the overtones, which is fine if you like that, while the 207 is more like a modern concert hall with harder materials on the wall: great acoustics, less muffling. Violins will therefore sound a bit sharper. In reality, the violin or cello sound has a lovely little sharpness to it, which the muffling tends to subdue.
 
The precision and soundstage also make electronic music genres like trance and ambient really shine. Less so if you listen to hardstyle for example, where it's more about the bass quantity. When it's about precision, control and airyness (including the bass department) the 207 is really good. I think especially for ambient and synths, the 207 is a much better choice than the HD650, in fact one of the best choices you could make, within this budget and a lot higher too. Better than the much more expensive Stax SR-007 for example, concerning airyness.
 
About comfort: yes, they're pretty comfortable. They're quite large, so they should fit around the ears easily. Clamp force is quite low (while quite high on the HD650) due to the headband design, so headbanging with the earspeakers on is not advised.
About durability: the 207 is part of the long-standing Lambda range. There are still quite a lot of the first normal bias Lambdas around, and they were made from 1979 (!), so durability of Stax headphones is generally not a concern at all, unless you abuse them obviously. What they don't like: extreme heat, very high humidity, direct sunlight, being dropped (although they'll probably survive), or having their cables jerked. I guess this is true for most headphones and electronics, so common sense applies here.
 
One last thing: don't be alarmed when you hear a loud crackling noise when you're wearing the headphones and make a sudden movement with your head or you're eating. Do a search for the 'Stax fart' and you'll understand.

 

[mysticstryk]

I really appreciate you taking the time to explain and give comparisons to my 650. You've given me a lot to think about.

 

[Michgelsen]

You're welcome. Please report back with your impressions if you do get them.

 

[mysticstryk]

You're welcome. Please report back with your impressions if you do get them.

Absolutely I will. It will be after the new year before I make any decisions. It's gonna probably come down to either this or an lcd-2 or el-8.