The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Dec 19, 2010 at 8:50 PM Post #2,297 of 3,220
Happiman, in regards to your Diymod on the ipod 5g, is your picture you posted on 151 (made on microsoft paint I assume) correct if we solder everything to the south ends? I'm mostly asking if the black gates are put in the right way.
 
Also, did joneeboi say that nothing has to be desoldered from the board? Only soldering required for the diymod?
 
Dec 20, 2010 at 6:02 AM Post #2,299 of 3,220
Another question. I read that vinnie doesn't actually put the black gate capacitators in the ipod 5/5.5g ipods which is why they have to use special dock connectors. But since some head-fi members have been able to mod the black gates into the ipod, can we use any line out cable with the ipod or do we still need to use the ALO/our own black gate cables.
 
Dec 21, 2010 at 12:21 AM Post #2,300 of 3,220

yup, if everythign's in suoth pad, it'll be correct. as for the blackgates, there's no right way as they are non polarize.
Quote:
Happiman, in regards to your Diymod on the ipod 5g, is your picture you posted on 151 (made on microsoft paint I assume) correct if we solder everything to the south ends? I'm mostly asking if the black gates are put in the right way.
 
Also, did joneeboi say that nothing has to be desoldered from the board? Only soldering required for the diymod?
 


 
 
Dec 21, 2010 at 12:26 AM Post #2,301 of 3,220
when we mod the black gates into the ipod, there's not a need to have special LODs(as the capasitor are already in the ipod),  we'll just use normal LODs. But make sure that your LOD is not sure lousy ones.
 
I'm currently using the fiio L3, resonably priced and resonably quality. haha
 
Quote:
Another question. I read that vinnie doesn't actually put the black gate capacitators in the ipod 5/5.5g ipods which is why they have to use special dock connectors. But since some head-fi members have been able to mod the black gates into the ipod, can we use any line out cable with the ipod or do we still need to use the ALO/our own black gate cables.



 
Dec 22, 2010 at 12:15 PM Post #2,303 of 3,220
Quote:
Happiman, in regards to your Diymod on the ipod 5g, is your picture you posted on 151 (made on microsoft paint I assume) correct if we solder everything to the south ends? I'm mostly asking if the black gates are put in the right way.
 
Also, did joneeboi say that nothing has to be desoldered from the board? Only soldering required for the diymod?


It's better to solder the wires directly to the caps that are in place instead of doing the old method of removing the caps and soldering to the pads alone. You are less likely to lift the pads if you leave the caps in, ensuring the integrity of the diyMod build. Once you open your iPod once, you're likely to go in again and again, so having a solid connection for the wires is very important.
 
Dec 22, 2010 at 12:22 PM Post #2,304 of 3,220
Quote:
Another question. I read that vinnie doesn't actually put the black gate capacitators in the ipod 5/5.5g ipods which is why they have to use special dock connectors. But since some head-fi members have been able to mod the black gates into the ipod, can we use any line out cable with the ipod or do we still need to use the ALO/our own black gate cables.


It depends on how you configure your diyMod, which is one of the most powerful aspects of the project. You can do whatever you want with the mod. You can put the capacitors inside, but you can also make it use different pins on the dock, requiring a special dock connector. You can make it use the regular audio pins, requiring capped dock connectors or amps with input caps (or some method of blocking DC from getting to the speakers/headphones). You can tailor it to whatever your system needs, so you can do whatever you want, really.
 
Dec 26, 2010 at 11:44 AM Post #2,305 of 3,220
is it possible to make this mod on iPhone 2G? because i took a look at that page you mentioned in the first page of this threat and there´s shown where to solder one side of the wire, but the another one isn´t
 
Dec 26, 2010 at 1:56 PM Post #2,306 of 3,220
Well, there's a guide for modding "[size=medium]Apple iPhone 1G/2G[/size][size=medium]", so yes, it's possible.  Likely the reason only "one side of the wire" is shown because in all cases of the diyMod, the other side of the wire goes to the dock connector. :)[/size]
 
Quote:
is it possible to make this mod on iPhone 2G? because i took a look at that page you mentioned in the first page of this threat and there´s shown where to solder one side of the wire, but the another one isn´t



 
Dec 27, 2010 at 4:29 AM Post #2,308 of 3,220
hi guys..
 
this is my first post on this forum..
 
i just got myself a ipod video 30gb and would wish to do this amazing DIYmod..
 
i think almost everything clear except for caps... i have seen a lot of different value caps out there. like 47uf 4.7uf and so forth.. and some with 6.3v, 50v and etc..
 
so what is the exact value of uf and v i should get for the mod?
 
Dec 27, 2010 at 6:53 PM Post #2,309 of 3,220
The voltage rating of the capacitor shows the nominal maximum value of DC voltage it can handle. Since we're working with a max 1.5V, you should get something with a rating a bit higher than that. 6.3V is the normal expected rating for this application.
 
The capacitance you need for the diyMod refers to the high pass filter that forms when you connect your diyMod to your amplifier. When you connect a series capacitor to a parallel resistor to ground (in the amplifier, this resistor is the volume potentiometer), it forms a first order high pass filter, which allows passes mostly high frequencies while attenuating low frequencies from the signal. DC power is, all in all, 0 Hz, a low frequency. Capacitance is the amount of charge that the capacitor can hold, and in our use, you only need a small amount of capacitance in the diyMod. The equation governing the size of capacitor in a high pass filter characteristic is
 
C = 2*pi/(f*R)
 
where C is the capacitance in uF
f is the frequency in Hz
and R is the input impedance of the amplifier.
 
Basically, we want to filer out the DC while passing as much of the audio signal as necessary. Since humans can typically only hear between 20Hz and 20kHz, the highest frequency you want to pass through is 20Hz, which we'll plug into the equation. R is the input resistance of your amplifier, typically 10kOhms up to 50kOhms or 100kOhms. That means that for an amp with 10K input resistance, you need at least 31uF, and for an amp with 100K input resistance, you can get away with around 3.1uF. What amp are you planning on using with your diyMod? Normally, the commercial amps list the input resistance on their tech spec sheets. If it's DIY, it's normally the resistance of the potentiometer.
 
Dec 28, 2010 at 1:40 AM Post #2,310 of 3,220
Thanks Joneeboi for ur reply...
 
I am looking at wither pico amp, mustang or the hornet...
 
so i guess a 47uF and 6.3v is good enough?
 
and for the caps, if installed in an LOD, it should be soldered to pin 3 and 4 each on the positive sides and then solder the negatives to the ground which is pin 1 or 2? am i correct?
 
thanks again...
 

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