[MaciekN]

Putting felt on the inside should reduce the cup material's inmpact on sound. As for dynamat, as far as I know it doesn't really absorb sound, at least not mid and higher frequencies since it is not porous.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Putting felt on the inside should reduce the cup material's inmpact on sound. As for dynamat, as far as I know it doesn't really absorb sound, at least not mid and higher frequencies since it is not porous.

 
You are quite correct - as far as Dynamat is concerned.  I did line the walls of the plastic driver housing with it.  There was essentially no change in sound - either way.  

 

[unchain]

Hey all, made my first headphone cable for my SR-80i. It's not attached yet, as I'm waiting for my Grados to get here (hopefully sometime this week, I've been Grado-less for almost a month!). The 2 pairs leading to the cups will be twisted and have red/black heatshrink coming out of the cups for right and left respectively.
 
How's it look? By the way, the ViaBlue Y-Split is really quite nice, but the exit hole is HUGE, I had to take a piece of foam, sew my wires through it, then heatshrink that with 3:1 heatshrink twice before I could screw it down tight enough, haha. That's why the larger end of the Y-Split is a bit haggard. I also messed up a braid or two, but didn't notice until I was far enough in that I wasn't about to undo my work just to correct it. It's not too noticeable.
 

 
ViaBlue 1/4" plug, ViaBlue Y-Split and Double Helix Cables "Nucleotide" 24 awg OCC stranded copper wire (which looks white in this picture, but is actually clear.)
 

 

[b00st4ddicted]

i read and read and read more, but i never found out about how we can put the headphone back together?  What kind of glue do we use to put everything back or do we just heat up the original glue?

 

[eclein]

Quote:

i read and read and read more, but i never found out about how we can put the headphone back together?  What kind of glue do we use to put everything back or do we just heat up the original glue?

Glue wasn't in the equation for mine, the shells fit tight enough that they really need a pull to get them back apart. The first shells were different and a lot looser so I built up the side of the plastic driver tray with clear tape to snug it up, I don't think we ever got past the fact that we wanted to take them aprt and keep trying stuff. I would think hot glue would work, rubber cement is what I'd try first because I could manage that stuff and clean it off if I didn't like it. 

 

[chrislangley4253]

-edit-

 

[chrislangley4253]

Quote:

i read and read and read more, but i never found out about how we can put the headphone back together?  What kind of glue do we use to put everything back or do we just heat up the original glue?

I, uhh. I don't use anything. There is still a bit of the original glue hanging around and it keeps them tight enough that they will stay together, but I can also just pull them apart. I know other people have used blu-tack to keep them together. If i was going to use a glue, well, I wouldn't.. I would use a layer of electrical tape or something along those lines. But, if i had to use glue I would use a small amount of hot glue.

 

[chrislangley4253]

Quote:

Hey all, made my first headphone cable for my SR-80i. It's not attached yet, as I'm waiting for my Grados to get here (hopefully sometime this week, I've been Grado-less for almost a month!). The 2 pairs leading to the cups will be twisted and have red/black heatshrink coming out of the cups for right and left respectively.
 
How's it look? By the way, the ViaBlue Y-Split is really quite nice, but the exit hole is HUGE, I had to take a piece of foam, sew my wires through it, then heatshrink that with 3:1 heatshrink twice before I could screw it down tight enough, haha. That's why the larger end of the Y-Split is a bit haggard. I also messed up a braid or two, but didn't notice until I was far enough in that I wasn't about to undo my work just to correct it. It's not too noticeable.
 

 
ViaBlue 1/4" plug, ViaBlue Y-Split and Double Helix Cables "Nucleotide" 24 awg OCC stranded copper wire (which looks white in this picture, but is actually clear.)
 

It looks really... cool . How much did it cost you?

 

[Danthrax]

Next time you are dealing with an opening like that put the sleeve from a Rean 3.5mm over the wire then use some heatshrink then put the other cover over it.

 

[unchain]

Quote:

Next time you are dealing with an opening like that put the sleeve from a Rean 3.5mm over the wire then use some heatshrink then put the other cover over it.

Wait, are you saying I should buy a jack just to use the sleeve from it? It looks ok as is, it really does. If I figure out something nicer, it won't be hard to fix at all. I could do it much easier if I just bought Techflex and sleeved the whole thing from the bottom of the Y split, which I probably will, I just need to order some expandable nylon sleeving as there is no where to buy it locally where I live, unfortunately. The only Techflex I have is much too large for this cable, left over from making speaker cables. I could have just put on some heatshrink, taped it up large and put on another layer of heatshrink. The reason I did it with the form was also because it makes an awesome stress relief, I can't pull on that cable either way. I'll probably clean it up later, but I'm good with it for now.

 

[unchain]

Quote:

It looks really... cool . How much did it cost you?

Got the plug and Y split on clearance for under $15 a while ago in anticipation. The cable was just over 50 dollars all together, it's very nice. I ordered navship's cable and it was totally stiff and not suitable for headphones at all. This stuff is perfect. Add in maybe a buck for heatshrink.  Around $60 all together.
 
 

 

[shaunybaby]

Quote:

Are you going with the standard 1/4" plug?  The Grados that I purchased (used) had a custom cable with a Neutrik cable.  I wanted to shorten the cable for my needs, so I de-soldered and disconnected everything.  I then put everything back together with east.  The Neutrik cable was a breeze to work with - and, to re-use, too!

yes im going to be using a 1/4 inch plug, just abit scarced that i might solder it all together then it will be wrong and with this being my first cable im not sure how to fix it if it all goes wrong.

im going to be making a cable for my 650,s im just not sure on the 1/4 jack is all. anyone know of any good uk surpliers of diy audio stuff.....?

Thanks for helping me wje.

 

[Danthrax]

So you have a $15-$20 viablue plug and you don't want to spend $2 (maybe 1) on a rean plug to make your life easier/neater? Also techflex is garbage for cables, extremely microphonic. You want cotton or nylon rope.
 
http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/3-5-2-5mm-Mini-Connectors/REAN-a-Brand-of-Neutrik-AG/NYS231BG.xhtml
 
Also the navships I bought wasn't stiff at all what awg did you get?

 

[unchain]

Quote:

So you have a $15-$20 viablue plug and you don't want to spend $2 (maybe 1) on a rean plug to make your life easier/neater? Also techflex is garbage for cables, extremely microphonic. You want cotton or nylon rope.
 
http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/3-5-2-5mm-Mini-Connectors/REAN-a-Brand-of-Neutrik-AG/NYS231BG.xhtml
 
Also the navships I bought wasn't stiff at all what awg did you get?

 
Woah there dude, no need for the third degree. My reply wasn't meant to be rude, rather, I was just confused. I was totally unaware of the existence of Rean brand plugs, the fact that they were dirt cheap or that that was a fix for my 'problem'. I'll probably order one now and try it out. Thanks for the tip. Also, if you read my previous post, you'd see that I got the ViaBlue Y split and plug together for under 15 bucks shipped on clearance, I believe on a site called AV Outlet or something similar. It was a while ago, and if I was to buy a plug now, I'd just use a nice Switchcraft.
 
I've personally never had problems with microphonics and Techflex, but I haven't tried it on headphone cables. I mean, I have a pair of interconnects here that are sleeved with it, and there's no noise when I run my hand across them. I figured that since that's the case, I wouldn't have a problem with it on a headphone cable. I've also seen it on a lot of very professional recables, but then again, I've seen a lot of garbage be popular as well. I wouldn't be opposed to using a nice cotton sleeve.
 
I got 24g, 22g and 16g SPC from navships. The 16g I expected to be stiff, I'm not using it for headphone cables, however the 24g and 22g wire is still VERY stiff. Like, I can bend it and it will stay that way. It's not good stuff, at least for headphone cables. I've heard of people getting very flexible wire in 24g from navships, as well as stiff. It seems like it's almost a gamble. It seems like I lost on that one, so unless I need stiff wire for something, I probably won't order from him again.
 
 

 

[Danthrax]

Sorry if I came off rude I was more puzzled than rude since Rean is a very common brand around here I figured you have heard of it lol. And yeah techflex is very microphonic on headphones whenever it brushes up against anything. Generally interconnect doesn't move, headphone cables do. And what kind of braid were you using for the navship it appears a little stiff as an individual strand but if you do a Litz braid it is actually very flexible, you just need to work with it a little. But then again I used the 26awg 19 strand not 24 or 22.
 
edit:
 
here is where I used a rean (it is actually the rean with the wider opening they make two sizes but I used 20 awg wire) inside a vintage audio lab plug http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/71148/diy-cable-gallery/6660#post_7431490 (second picture)