[KimChee]

Bill on page 3 on your recable you said you made your cables detachable, can you please explain how you did this, and what parts you used to do this?  

 

[sml1226]

KimChee - Do you just want them detachable or do you want them to be able to pop out in the event of a quick tug?

I was thinking you could go the way of AKG if you just want it removable and use some mini XLR connectors for this. I'm not exactly sure how I'd use the third connector, if I did, but I thought that could be a decent option. The only problem is, the flat panel mount ones, even being a mini XLR, are still pretty big to be putting on a round cup. If you've got a woodie, you could flatten part of it, or with either a woodie, metal, or plastic cup, you could (not really sure how to do it well, but) build up to the square off of the cup itself so that the panel isn't sitting uneven off of the cup.

Another option would be to put a 1/8" or 1/4" panel mount mono jack on each cup and a matching mono plug on the cable. This way they would just pop out of the jack if you accidentally yank on them since they are lacking a lock that XLR has.

 

[Bilavideo]

And about the iGrados, can anybody say whether they are the same as the SR-60 drivers or not? Grado's site says they are the same in the description, yet the "Features" section says UHPLC everything on the iGrados, and Standard on the SR-60 ("UHPLC Copper Voice Coil" doesn't reappear until the SR-125i, and "UHPLC Copper Connecting Cord" doesn't reappear until the SR-325is)

The iGrados use the same drivers as the SR60.  Grado expressly states as much as a marketing point for the iGrados, which don't sound as good as the SR60, but not because there's anything wrong with the drivers.  I've taken several apart.  On early models, the rear grill was not a grill at all, just plastic molded to look like a grill.  The early iGrado was just a closed can pretending to be open.  It even had a little pad in it designed to damp the driver.  Put these drivers into a real set of cans and you're off to the races.  It'll be the best $50 you ever spent.
 
As for the UHPLC wire in the iGrado, I wouldn't read too much into that.  UHPLC is a term invented by Grado.  Nobody else uses it.  I've seen the wire that cables up the iGrado.  It didn't look like solid core.  It looked like stranded wire.  I read the same claims before buying my first one, but I'm convinced that even if the UHPLC wire was the equivalent of UCC wire, the gauge of the iGrado is so puny that a standard Grado cable would probably blow it away.  I'm not sure what that gauge is, but I'd guess it's 28 awg, as compared to the 24 awg on the SR60.  For IEMs, which use much less power, flimsy cabling is fine, especially as a solution to microphonics.  I'm not sure it's such a good idea on a full-size can.
 
But the iGrado drivers are at least as good as the drivers on the SR60.

 

[Bilavideo]

Bill- I'm trying to figure out how to make a  - BilaGrado - logo....I should of gotten you to sign a piece of paper so I could find someone to make little logo badges....LOL.. That would so cool.....
 
So these 125's have 1/4 Jack native and I need a headphone extension cord to sit and chill and I have one thats fine but I can't find 1/4 to mini adapter, I of course have like 3 of every other kind made on the planet....I know its here somewhere...
 
Should I mod the 125's??? I think I have too.....I still have a little dynamat....

 
Eclein, I like your idea.  I'm flattered.  Yes, you should mod your 125s.  I think you should mod it all, even the RS1 and the GS1000.  In fact, one reason I sold off my PS1000 was that, after running it against an SR60 with all of the mods, including four-wire braid of silver-core (99.99% pure), I found myself seriously eyeing the PS1000 for a cable upgrade.  When you find yourself even thinking about modding a $1,700 headphone, you either get rid of the headphones or roll the dice.  With the SR125s, it'll be an easier decision.

 

[ArmAndHammer]

I haven't read this entire thread...are there any pictures showing re-cabling? If not, can someone post up some pictures of their Grados being re-cabled?

 

[Bilavideo]

 

Bill on page 3 on your recable you said you made your cables detachable, can you please explain how you did this, and what parts you used to do this?  

I've done a detachable-cable mod before, though I should probably revisit it because it seemed like a popular upgrade.  Just run down to Radio Shack (or someplace better) and grab a pair of mini-jack (not the cell-phone minis but the portable device mini).  You already have the holes drilled in the bottom of each shell for cabling.  Just use those holes for each jack.  You'll need a little wire, preferably something good, so you can wire the jacks up to the terminals.  Then you'll need a pair of mini plugs, one for each jack.  Once you wire up the jacks, anchor them in with hot glue.
 
Reminder: Each mini plug should be in mono.  You are essentially breaking the line up into two separate pairs.

 

[marko93101]

 
Quote:

Quote:

Quick question for ya man, hope ya dont mine yet another one
Ehm, with some basic mods(no opening the headphone im too inexperienced for such manners) and replacing of the cable to silver. Do you think SR60s could be as good as the Audio Technica Ath-M50s?
Thanks
Mark

No. They are much better than the m50s after being modded.

I see. What modds would bring it to such a level?
Thanks

 

[KneelJung]

Quote:

I see. What modds would bring it to such a level?
Thanks

I imagine some people think a stock SR60 is better than an M50, so the mods are really not needed to form that opinion. I also get the impression from the tone and tenor of your response that you have another agenda that belies your question. Perhaps I'm wrong, in which case I would simply redirect you back to the first post and you will be able to discern from the various posts what the mods are, how to do them, and the results. 

 

[xaval]

Quote:

STOP THE PRESSES!!!!!
 I tried something I haven't seen yet with outstanding results...its not what you see its whats behind it...and its not the EVS thing...

 I opened up the SR125's and did the following...
1) 7 holes
2) Dynamat on the driver button
3) Removed screen and button in one piece****
4) I cut some really thin foam I had lyin around (its like 1/32) to fit the inside dimension of the top
5) Foam first with the screen and button I took out in one piece behind the foam- button facing out toward camera
6) Closed it up with tape temporary and put bowls on.
7) Put on Radiohead KID A.....
8) Wet my pants!!!
 
You get the slam of the low end but no boom, no undefined thump its like the low end from my Ultrasones and the mids and hi's of the Grado sound. Its still technically open as the screen is there behind the foam so for whatever reason this
is pretty cool....It took Dynamat, and 7 holes to get them to sound like my modded 60's and this last thing was the icing. But hey I'm an old guy what do I know......LOL...check it out
 

I'd wet my pants too!  Great share
 

 

[Bilavideo]

 

Quote:

STOP THE PRESSES!!!!!
 I tried something I haven't seen yet with outstanding results...its not what you see its whats behind it...and its not the EVS thing...
 
 I opened up the SR125's and did the following...
1) 7 holes
2) Dynamat on the driver button
3) Removed screen and button in one piece****
4) I cut some really thin foam I had lyin around (its like 1/32) to fit the inside dimension of the top
5) Foam first with the screen and button I took out in one piece behind the foam- button facing out toward camera
6) Closed it up with tape temporary and put bowls on.
7) Put on Radiohead KID A.....
8) Wet my pants!!!
 
You get the slam of the low end but no boom, no undefined thump its like the low end from my Ultrasones and the mids and hi's of the Grado sound. Its still technically open as the screen is there behind the foam so for whatever reason this
is pretty cool....It took Dynamat, and 7 holes to get them to sound like my modded 60's and this last thing was the icing. But hey I'm an old guy what do I know......LOL...check it out
 

I'd wet my pants too!  Great share
 

I want to try this.  Are you saying you put a thin piece of foam on the back of the headphone, inside the rear chamber?

 

[eclein]

Its two days of listening and I'm still astonished.
I took the screen and button out in one piece when I opened the 125's, so I had a top with no screen and was looking around and found this foam that I had taken out of some Sony's last week trying to mod them......so I'm thinking how do I hold it in there with some kind of backing to keep it nice and taught. 
 The foam is like maybe 1/16" thick, the kind you peel off earpads on other brands, so I cut out a circle of it to size, push it in the top and secured it with the screen and button right behind it in their original position, there is just a thin foam there now, the button is still facing out and pushes out the foam a touch for effect. 
 
 So that plastic screen is in there as the back of the chamber with the foam behind it....the combination of the air holes in the screen and the foam brings a nice low end....you could do all kinds of things with this, dynamat your favorite design on the screen behind the foam and see how the sonic signature changes....totally user customizeable......Bill.....this option brings hundreds of options to this process......this may be my finest achievement......LOL, my little slice of good sound to pass around.....

 

[eclein]

Bll....a Cocobolo shell, with some sort of top consisting of this thin foam and a screen with the density of your choice....you could tune these endlessly!!!!!!!!

 

[eclein]

I'm wired....sorry, I've been up all night listening to these and sitting here like "oh sh_t" I really hit on something......
I was a professional drummer in another life so I know about resonance in chambers, I was able to create a sort of open sound but with that nice bass drum, hitting you in the chest and your really hppy while it does...LOL...

 

[Bilavideo]

I'll have to give this a try.  Good job!

 

[KimChee]

Ok just one last dumb question, and I think I will make an order with homegrown audio.  How necessary is the sleeving on the bottom part of the cable?  Is it just for protection?  My thinking is I don't really want the added bulk...I don't think I'll make the cable removable, I think I'll just solder it in and and use the heat shrink tubes as strain relief.
 
I've been listening to the modded SR-60s using some of the songs I use as my standard to test headphones, Social Distortion's "Down On the World Again," "When the Angels Sing," and AFI's, "Carcinogen Crush," and I am hearing little details in the treble, I have not heard on my recabled Triple Fi 10.  This is completely insane for me as I know these songs very well, and I find the Triple Fi 10's to be very revealing in the treble!  I'm not the most experienced guy around, but I've owned/listened to my fair share of phones, and this blows me away.
 
I can't wait to finish my project SR-60 with a recable, and be even further in audio nirvana!