Jul 4, 2011 at 5:45 PM Post #196 of 3,353
LMAO... I can imagine the disappointment in her eyes as he would probably pale in comparison... However, even more surprising it would be a FedEX guy in uniform around these parts lulz.
 
edit: Actually it was my maid who got the door. "Good afternoon M'am. I've got this big package to unload..."
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Jul 4, 2011 at 6:39 PM Post #197 of 3,353


Quote:
ROFL Xaval how long have you been away from home exactly??
 
Can imagine your wife running to the door expecting to find you, but instead finding a FedEX mail man with a package for you.

 
how about the wife running to recieve Xaval, but then he dodge her and run to open the wood box. 
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Jul 4, 2011 at 8:31 PM Post #198 of 3,353


Quote:
Can someone who's used the Cabillas method of driver liberation confirm the tool they used to make the cut? I don't have many tools...


Kojaku


I think you might have already completed your liberation, but just in case...to answer your question, I use this:
 

 
 
Jul 4, 2011 at 11:34 PM Post #201 of 3,353
Btw, wje, does the mallet method run any particular risks?

Kojaku
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 1:37 AM Post #202 of 3,353
more impressions to post. Haven't had much headtime lately. 
 
TL:DR the MSPROS are better. A bit more aggressive and detailed. The woodied sr80s still look better imo and give them a real run for their money. Sound a tad less aggressive and more smooth, bit less detailed. The over all sound sig is still real similar though. I find myself preferring the sr80's at night, because of their less aggressive nature. 
 
Also, I don't think the tape mod does too much. I think it makes the pads a bit less comfortable. But, by all means try it out. I don't have the best ears in the world. That is for sure. 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 3:56 AM Post #203 of 3,353


 
Quote:
I think you might have already completed your liberation, but just in case...to answer your question, I use this:
 

 


 
 
I am ashamed to show the tool I used when I got cut and the driver tried to force off the piece by the saw blade and it broke. As you can see was perfct condition and new and do not know why ...:)
Moreover, WJE, I hope you tell us how it goes DIY with this new tool, which purchase or lease and how valuable.

 
Greetings from the broken saw.
 
 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 5:48 AM Post #204 of 3,353


Quote:
more impressions to post. Haven't had much headtime lately. 
 
TL:DR the MSPROS are better. A bit more aggressive and detailed. The woodied sr80s still look better imo and give them a real run for their money. Sound a tad less aggressive and more smooth, bit less detailed. The over all sound sig is still real similar though. I find myself preferring the sr80's at night, because of their less aggressive nature. 
 
Also, I don't think the tape mod does too much. I think it makes the pads a bit less comfortable. But, by all means try it out. I don't have the best ears in the world. That is for sure. 

Soundstage wise? I've been wondering if the drivers make any difference to the soundstage or just the housing..
 
 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 7:26 AM Post #205 of 3,353
Ok, first impressions about Martin Custom Audio MS1.
 
No pics. There's a catchy start
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However, I'll just state that Marty did excepcional craftsmanship work. Flawless (almost).
 
So you get your wood box. From the pic my wife sent yesterday it looked like pine. It's not pine, and I cannot really tell you what it is in English since the word is missing on my vocabulary at the moment. We have here some prawn boxes sold with that kind of material. It's nothing fancy, but it's well built, with some nice details on the interior to accomodate de cans and really stands out among this mod business with attention to detail. Pics to come later.
 
The headband is perfect. I've read a few coments about how unconfortable the lower end Grados/Alessandros feel on the head. I know what they are talking about as my previous experiences proved it beyond about an hour of use. They hurt. Not Martin's. The leather is really soft and has a lined padding on the underside that not only looks the biz but works on a top level. Great marriage between form and function.
 
The cups and gimbals are amazing. Very well crafted, sanded and laquered. Padauk on the gimbals and Cebil wood on the cups. On their own both woods look exquisite. As a matched combo it's like a piece of art. My crappy camera will never capture that beauty accordingly. I'm also a poor photographer, so just believe what I'm saying. Pads are bowls. I need to work out a leather pair later on.
 
Remember the almost flawless remark?
The almost comes out because of the rods.  The actual rods are made of brass and they attach to Cebil blocks. Great idea to slide the brass through the wood to adjust hight. Looks wonderful. Works wrong. The wood quickly erodes with the friction and the cups come off if you lay the cans on the table top. I need to fix this.
 
These cans have been recabled with 4 strand silver cable. A 5 footish piece and another 5 footish extension cable. Works out just great if I take these on a trip as I don't need a long wire to connect an iPod or iPad.
 
As for the sound, I had a couple of hours listen. They did a few great things and a few really bad things. I need to adjust my brain and tune in. I was also anxsious to come home and grab them after this looooooong wait to finally resolve all the pending issues with my initial order. I'll post about the sound later on as I feel the need to relax with them e let myself go. No love at first listen though.
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 8:54 AM Post #206 of 3,353


 
Quote:
TL:DR the MSPROS are better. A bit more aggressive and detailed. The woodied sr80s still look better imo and give them a real run for their money. Sound a tad less aggressive and more smooth, bit less detailed. The over all sound sig is still real similar though. I find myself preferring the sr80's at night, because of their less aggressive nature. 
 
Also, I don't think the tape mod does too much. I think it makes the pads a bit less comfortable. But, by all means try it out. I don't have the best ears in the world. That is for sure. 


Chris,  A few comments:
 
  1. If we could get our hands on the drivers that are used in the MS-Pros, imagine the possibilities?  I realized Grado doesn't sell parts, but I've never tried asking Alessandro if they would.  It was Alessandro after all that sent me a replacement MS-1i driver after all.  Hmm ... I wonder how many parts they stock and if this might be an option?  I've just fired off an e-mail to see if this is an option.
 
  1. I'm sort of with you on the "tape on the pads" issue.  I do think that one gains a bit of bass (small percentage), but I do feel that it does take away from the comfort.  Also, I think that the tape prevents the pads from "breathing" by blocking air that would get through the foam and make  your listening sessions comfortable.  I know with other bowls, pads, etc. from other manufacturers, I don't feel as comfortable wearing them - with the exception of my Sennheisers, with the soft cups that surround your ears.
 
  1. The sound (in general).  I'm quite sure if we all tossed our modified Grados / Alessandros in a pile and then listened to the others and tested them out, most would be within a 5% variance of each other, but probably not much more.  However, that is what keeps bringing up the question - how much more are you willing to spend to reach for that last 5%?
     
 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 9:24 AM Post #208 of 3,353


Quote:
First post so:
 
Hi all!
 
I've got some questions: first of all what tool did you use to vent drivers (punch holes in cloth in back of the driver), someone mentioned bic ball pen. Is this that one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bic_Cristal ?
Second, what is proper technic, drill, push? Any pictures, movies?
 
Thanks


The ball-point pen seems to work the best in my times of performing this process.  You don't want to use a drill - or, push too deep.  There are 10 holes on the back of the driver that surround the magnet structure.  Each hole is covered by a thin layer of an acoustic material.  You want to gently open those holes up.  People usually open 4 holes, t try the sound out to see if the bass increase is enough for them.  Never, push in too deep - or, you'll hit the driver material and wreck your driver.
 
 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 9:35 AM Post #209 of 3,353


Quote:
The ball-point pen seems to work the best in my times of performing this process.  You don't want to use a drill - or, push too deep.  There are 10 holes on the back of the driver that surround the magnet structure.  Each hole is covered by a thin layer of an acoustic material.  You want to gently open those holes up.  People usually open 4 holes, t try the sound out to see if the bass increase is enough for them.  Never, push in too deep - or, you'll hit the driver material and wreck your driver.
 
 

Thanks!

Ok, by drill I meant drilling with ball pen, you know turning it while pushing to the cloth. But I might have batter idea. Since pushing it might cause that some parts of it fall under diaphragm, maybe I can use this http://pl.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Plik:Wycinak_0211.jpg&filetimestamp=20090113150545 with diameter slightly bigger than hole. 
To bad I have to sit in work till 22:00.
 
 
Jul 5, 2011 at 10:24 AM Post #210 of 3,353


Quote:
Thanks!

Ok, by drill I meant drilling with ball pen, you know turning it while pushing to the cloth. But I might have batter idea. Since pushing it might cause that some parts of it fall under diaphragm, maybe I can use this http://pl.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Plik:Wycinak_0211.jpg&filetimestamp=20090113150545 with diameter slightly bigger than hole. 
To bad I have to sit in work till 22:00.
 


 
Usually, the ball-point pen does quite well.  Also, the material doesn't really break apart and fall onto the diaphragm.  It basically stays connected and pushed down along the sides of the openings when you move the ball-point pen around.
 
Oh, for the non-military types, 22:00 = 10:00 P.M.
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