SR60-Mod part II
Dec 12, 2011 at 6:00 PM Post #2,806 of 3,353
I saw your thread - that is awesome what you did.  How did that turn out as far as the sound goes?
 
Mine is actually not closed.  It's kind of a hybrid, something in-between.  Still a work in progress.
 
Dec 12, 2011 at 9:54 PM Post #2,807 of 3,353
Well, I did it.
 
For the main wire, I simply cut off the garden hose just below the Y joint and soldered a 1/8" plug.
 
I used a screw-on panel mount 1/8" jack on the bottom of the right side.  Drilled a 1/8" hole in the top of both cans.  
 
Ran a 24 AWG copper speaker wire from right to left through the headband and soldered it to the left driver.
 
Admittedly, I decided to cheap out and go with the RS parts for now, just because of my impatience.  I also kind of wanted to prove to myself that I could do it.  Idle hands are the devil's playthings, I suppose.  Funny thing is, I get a more solid connection between the stock Grado 1/8" plug and the RS jack than I do between the RS plug and jack, but the RS plug allows me to connect to my iPod without removing it from its hard case, so everything worked out fairly well.  I do plan on eventually upgrading the hardware, and possibly the main wire, so your advice hasn't completely fallen on deaf ears.
 

 

 
 
 
Dec 13, 2011 at 5:52 AM Post #2,808 of 3,353

 
Well, they're finally done. Just got 'em back from Mr. Grado today. Sent 'em in for a driver adjustment and gimbal repair. Mr.Grado replaced my drivers and gimbals and soldered the cables in as well, all free of charge. I really do love the Grado business model.
 
Anyway,  I left my sock-mod pads at school, so I'm using my spare bowls at the moment. Solid-core 26AWG Cryo-Silver sleeved with MDPC-X Grey and terminated in a DHC 1/8-inch courtesy of Chris_Himself.
 
They're...amazing. More detailed, but not sizzly. More authoritative down-low, but not bloated. And oh the mids. That same lushness with a tad more articulation. A truly fantastic headphone :) 
 

 
Been away for awhile so I thought I'd treat y'all to a pic of my away-from-school setup. 
 
Glad to see everyone is still doing well!
 
Kojaku
 
Dec 14, 2011 at 5:45 PM Post #2,810 of 3,353
Simon,
 
The retro Fostex gear looks intriguing.  I wonder if Fostex has a museum somewhere with all of the various heapdhones that they've produced in their history - they've sure built a lof of them over the years.
 
Dec 14, 2011 at 6:51 PM Post #2,811 of 3,353
Wayne,  they are not Fostex but cheap I-mego from China. To be honest they didn't sound as bad as I thought they would but the Grado drivers sound better. You can see them here
 
Quote:
Simon,
 
The retro Fostex gear looks intriguing.  I wonder if Fostex has a museum somewhere with all of the various heapdhones that they've produced in their history - they've sure built a lof of them over the years.



 
 
 
Dec 15, 2011 at 5:58 PM Post #2,812 of 3,353
They're asking $99 for those I-megos (the classics anyway)... not that cheap. 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 2:13 AM Post #2,813 of 3,353
Sometimes i wonder why i even try. Im trying to open the cups on my 60s, and they will NOT open. I got water to a rolling boil and put them in, pried as hard as i could, still nothing. I tried a spoon and its just going to mar up the case bad. Am i not leaving them in the water long enough? Or what? 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 2:23 AM Post #2,814 of 3,353
Sometimes i wonder why i even try. Im trying to open the cups on my 60s, and they will NOT open. I got water to a rolling boil and put them in, pried as hard as i could, still nothing. I tried a spoon and its just going to mar up the case bad. Am i not leaving them in the water long enough? Or what? 


Watch my tutorial vid on hairdryer method:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zachh7Cf5rY&sns=em

Kojaku
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 3:03 AM Post #2,815 of 3,353
Yeah i know about it, but of course noone in my household has a hairdryer. Eventually i ended up using boiling water, while running a lighter around the sides carefully. Finally worked but man i had to work for it. Btw does it matter which holes i poke out? As in position? Im probably going to do 2 and go from there. 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 3:15 AM Post #2,816 of 3,353


Quote:
Yeah i know about it, but of course noone in my household has a hairdryer. Eventually i ended up using boiling water, while running a lighter around the sides carefully. Finally worked but man i had to work for it. Btw does it matter which holes i poke out? As in position? Im probably going to do 2 and go from there. 



Well at least they're open. Warning you though, the venting mod affects both bass and mid-bass. Some have found it very much not to their tastes and ended up re-covering the holes with muslin cloth. If you're really set on venting, then make sure your holes are symmetrical. If you punch two across from one another, one on the left and one on the right, for example, on one driver, then make sure you do the same for the other. Also, be particularly careful not to pierce through more than the cloth and damage the driver.
 
Kojaku
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 4:02 AM Post #2,818 of 3,353
Also sorry to double post, but when putting them back together, does it matter which way the drivers align? As in is it possible to have them upside down and have it affect sound? 
 
I ask because, A. I cant remember which way they were but i have an idea, and B. I want them a certain way so the view of the driver isnt impeded by just a dumb cord. 
Driectly below is how i believe it should go. To the right and below is how id like it to go. (essentially turn driver 180*)


Mass damping for Grados? No. Downside to the steam trick, there was A LOT of humidity on the back of the drivers and inside, a lot more than id like, so im going to make sure they dry out thoroughly before i use them. 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 4:45 AM Post #2,819 of 3,353


Quote:
Also sorry to double post, but when putting them back together, does it matter which way the drivers align? As in is it possible to have them upside down and have it affect sound? 
 
I ask because, A. I cant remember which way they were but i have an idea, and B. I want them a certain way so the view of the driver isnt impeded by just a dumb cord. 
Driectly below is how i believe it should go. To the right and below is how id like it to go. (essentially turn driver 180*)


Mass damping for Grados? No. Downside to the steam trick, there was A LOT of humidity on the back of the drivers and inside, a lot more than id like, so im going to make sure they dry out thoroughly before i use them. 


I just got my cans back from Grado (I essentially had them redo some soldering from a custom recable) and the drivers were situated such that the solder pad was 45-degrees in the opposite direction of the side on which the driver is located. In other words, the left driver (when seen looking through the metal mesh) has its solder pad 45-degrees clockwise from the line established by the gimbal rod. The right one has its solder pad 45-degrees counter-clockwise of this line.
 
Kojaku
 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 5:14 AM Post #2,820 of 3,353
K, thanks for that. Venting the holes just increases bass, but slightly decreases the high end correct? 


I've heard that the main effect is on bass and mid bass. Thus all I can tell ya xD.

Kojaku
 

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