[brunk]

Almost done with my First Watt F5 for my HE-6. Just need to install the FETs and wire it all up All DALE military grade 1% resistors on F5 boards, high quality Panasonic resistors and THSA series caps (with film bypass caps) on PSU boards, along with discrete rectification (1st pic). Can't wait to give it a listen!

 

 

 

[Gary in MD]

Have you notified the local authorities, fire department and power company of the upcoming test? 

 
Actually, that looks like nice work.  Of course we don't see the underside of the boards, which if I was doing the job, would be covered in burn spots and solder blobs randomly (or perhaps not so randomly) distributed around the traces.  I would attempt to claim that these were "upgrades" to the original design.  I would not be able to convince you, as when the unit was plugged in, there would be smoke but no sound.
 
I bow down to ye who have skills...

 

[alota]

  Almost done with my First Watt F5 for my HE-6. Just need to install the FETs and wire it all up All DALE military grade 1% resistors on F5 boards, high quality Panasonic resistors and THSA series caps (with film bypass caps) on PSU boards, along with discrete rectification (1st pic). Can't wait to give it a listen!

 

 

 
please, when you bought this kit?
thank you

 

[brunk]

  Have you notified the local authorities, fire department and power company of the upcoming test? 

 
Actually, that looks like nice work.  Of course we don't see the underside of the boards, which if I was doing the job, would be covered in burn spots and solder blobs randomly (or perhaps not so randomly) distributed around the traces.  I would attempt to claim that these were "upgrades" to the original design.  I would not be able to convince you, as when the unit was plugged in, there would be smoke but no sound.
 
I bow down to ye who have skills...

 
Lmao I will have to notify them
 
Here's the underside of the F5 boards, pretty nice right? Brunk has some skills

 

[preproman]

You using onboard heat sinks?  What does the case look like?

 

[brunk]

  You using onboard heat sinks?  What does the case look like?

 
I'll be using this lovely case from the DiyAudio store, I snatched the last one in stock Just like the rest of the build, it's slightly overkill too hehe, less heat for the components the better though. The extra price premium is much worth it IMO, because I certainly can't compete with a CNC machine, not to mention that future First Watt boards are ridiculously easy to swap thanks to the mounting specs.
 

 

[preproman]

  That's a big ass enclosure.  Are you sending it to FEP?

 

[brunk]

 

  That's a big ass enclosure.  Are you sending it to FEP?

 
Hehe yes it is. I might send the front panel to them in the future for some customization, but i don't want to personalize to the F5 because the case is future-proof to swap next-gen boards. We'll see That case alone was half the cost of the build lol, but it's one that'll stick around for a very long time.

 

[brunk]

   
please, when you bought this kit?
thank you

 
I bought the boards and chassis from the DiyAudio Store. Everything else is from Mouser or Digi-Key. FETs are from a fellow in Hong Kong.

 

[alota]

   
I bought the boards and chassis from the DiyAudio Store. Everything else is from Mouser or Digi-Key. FETs are from a fellow in Hong Kong.

 
thank you

 

[brunk]

   
thank you

 
You're most welcome! Feel free to PM me if you need some help with anything and I'll be more than happy to assist

 

[alota]

   
You're most welcome! Feel free to PM me if you need some help with anything and I'll be more than happy to assist

 

 

[henrikolsen]

 
Ron uses simple 4-strand microphone cable -- one wire to each combo spade/banana connector on one end, and a 4-pin XLR connector on the other.  It's cheap (a couple of meters would cost you <$10US) and it works very well, even if you are running it several hundred feet from a stage to a theater sound system.  But I really don't think the type of cable is going to matter that much, as long as it is a good conductor. On the other hand, if you are comfortable building them yourself, try a few different types of wire and then report back here what differences you heard. 

 
OK, thanks. I've found a couple of candidates here:
 
http://www.thomann.de/dk/cordial_cmk_422_zwillingskabel.htm
http://www.thomann.de/dk/sommer_cable_square_4core_mkii_highflex.htm
 
I have been thinking that the AWG ~24 wires are very thin and used individually in a banana plug would be rather vulnerable. Since then I also noticed BTG having this notice: "

It is not recommended that you purchase 4 strand wire for Banana plugs because they wire is so thin."​

 

If I can find 8-stranded wire, I could consider pairing them 2 at a time for each banana, or perhaps use this thicker (~ AWG 20) microphone cable instead for a more secure connection:​

 
http://www.thomann.de/dk/cordial_csf_450.htm
 
Gary, are your banana connections soldered or screw type? I've only come across the screw types for now, and see no cable relief built-in. Having kids in the house, that could be nice
Have you wondered about the strength of your single stranded wires? Perhaps they are ~AWG 20 and not 24s.
 
If I can find a good fit, I'll try and put a nice shoe lace around the cable as sleeve and some heat shrink to secure it and see how it looks. And post the results.

 

[brunk]

Here's a finished F5 channel. Ain't that a sight

 

[Gary in MD]

   
OK, thanks. I've found a couple of candidates here:
 
http://www.thomann.de/dk/cordial_cmk_422_zwillingskabel.htm
http://www.thomann.de/dk/sommer_cable_square_4core_mkii_highflex.htm
 
I have been thinking that the AWG ~24 wires are very thin and used individually in a banana plug would be rather vulnerable. Since then I also noticed BTG having this notice: "

It is not recommended that you purchase 4 strand wire for Banana plugs because they wire is so thin."​

 

If I can find 8-stranded wire, I could consider pairing them 2 at a time for each banana, or perhaps use this thicker (~ AWG 20) microphone cable instead for a more secure connection:​

 
http://www.thomann.de/dk/cordial_csf_450.htm
 
Gary, are your banana connections soldered or screw type? I've only come across the screw types for now, and see no cable relief built-in. Having kids in the house, that could be nice
Have you wondered about the strength of your single stranded wires? Perhaps they are ~AWG 20 and not 24s.
 
If I can find a good fit, I'll try and put a nice shoe lace around the cable as sleeve and some heat shrink to secure it and see how it looks. And post the results.

 
Ron used wire like the second one you listed, the 4core with a different color for each strand (definitely helps me tell the pairs apart).  I can't tell you the gauge since it's insulated and none of the ends are open, so I can't tell how much of the wire is copper and how much is insulation -- but it is very thin, so likely 24.  I also assume the jacks are soldered on, but they are shrink wrapped, so I can't say that with 100% certainty.   They are a space/banana combo, with the wire attached to the spade, then the spade attaches to the banana.  Works great.  
 
I have wondered about the strength, but not that much, since I don't have kids.  I can tell you that I did A LOT of connecting and disconnecting and connecting and disconnecting and connecting and disconnecting (I think you get the idea) during the comparison test, and the wires are still intact.  So I assume that as long as you or your kids don't use it as a jump rope you should be okay.  But if it breaks at the end, you just have to reattach the jack, if it breaks in the middle you might have to replace the wire... or just use the longest remaining piece...

 
 
Having long wires is a hazard anyway... you inevitably end up all wrapped up in them, with your legs all tangled... no, wait, I was thinking of dogs, not people... you would never get all tangled, right Henrik?  Right?