[Camano]

News to me, maybe not to use - if you use Amazon Prime Video streaming as an Atmos source you now get to pay extra for the privilege:

"If you opt for the basic, ad-supported version of Prime Video, you won't be able to watch with Dolby Atmos or Dolby Vision. Instead, you'll have 5.1-channel Dolby Digital Plus and HDR 10 (as tested by CNET). Dolby Vision's functionally is very similar to HDR 10, so you may not mind that difference."

https://www.cnet.com/tech/services-...-up-with-prime-video-with-ads-and-go-ad-free/

https://www.androidauthority.com/am...d-subscription-no-dolby-atmos-vision-3414025/

 

[phoenixdogfan]

News to me, maybe not to use - if you use Amazon Prime Video streaming as an Atmos source you now get to pay extra for the privilege:

"If you opt for the basic, ad-supported version of Prime Video, you won't be able to watch with Dolby Atmos or Dolby Vision. Instead, you'll have 5.1-channel Dolby Digital Plus and HDR 10 (as tested by CNET). Dolby Vision's functionally is very similar to HDR 10, so you may not mind that difference."

https://www.cnet.com/tech/services-...-up-with-prime-video-with-ads-and-go-ad-free/

https://www.androidauthority.com/am...d-subscription-no-dolby-atmos-vision-3414025/

I wasn't aware of that. I opted for the ad-free version because I look at Prime as a Netflix equivalent, and I just wanted an ad-free environment for mental hygiene reasons. Using Brave as my browser, and watching 90 percent of my TV through Prime and Netflix has taken close to 95 percent of commercial ads out of my life, and the difference it makes in the serenity of my day is remarkable. I don't know how people stand being bombarded every couple of minutes by the crap that comes with OTA TV and unfiltered internet. Once you get away from it, and see it again because you watch something like the Super Bowl, you come to realize just how obtrusive it really is.

 

[Sanctuary]

I wasn't aware of that. I opted for the ad-free version because I look at Prime as a Netflix equivalent, and I just wanted an ad-free environment for mental hygiene reasons. Using Brave as my browser, and watching 90 percent of my TV through Prime and Netflix has taken close to 95 percent of commercial ads out of my life, and the difference it makes in the serenity of my day is remarkable. I don't know how people stand being bombarded every couple of minutes by the crap that comes with OTA TV and unfiltered internet. Once you get away from it, and see it again because you watch something like the Super Bowl, you come to realize just how obtrusive it really is.

Haha. This is exactly how it's been for me for I don't know how many years now. Maybe over a decade. The only times I would see commercials would be when over at someone else's house, or when I very infrequently load up Youtube on my TV to show a friend something. Otherwise I just watch it on PC without ads.

I never had my own Amazon Prime Video account other than all of the random free months they give throughout the year, but I've been using a friend's account now for about three years. Guess he either didn't notice, or doesn't care that it now has ads, because I noticed a few days ago that ads were popping up. Not getting Dolby Vision or Atmos on top of that? I can wait until there's two or three series and a movie or two that I want to watch that have fully aired on Amazon, sub for a month to watch them, then unsub. If I don't just watch them another way before then.

Although I have to say, Atmos through the A16 on Prime, Netflix and even Apple just isn't really worth it. It sounds like trash to me compared to what you hear on disc. So much so that I don't really care about losing it from streaming, but the loss of Dolby Vision or just HDR10 hurts.

 

[Andrew Seeley]

Yeah, the new prime lack of offered Atmos and hdr got my 'feels' too, : not that I've yet used "Primes"-atmos Playback. I'm still looking forward to figuring out how to get the firestick to work (interface with) an android phone display from the realiser... maybe there is any way?

I want to listen to Dolby Atmos Tidal tracks on the go (from the A16/phone screen swiping theough apps and running the firestick), but to my knowledge can't use the firestick fisplay interface from a second screen, like the phone, unless the (HDMI-Out) display has video-in (no phone, i think, though i should check the experia). just to try it first... but don't want to use the bloody remote to type in track by track, the music selection.

Can any of the firestick / Max Or Ultra wirelessly connect to an external device yet, while also feeding the music through the Realiser? Interface by phone or even pc I guess would be nice.

I would rather not constantly swap the cable between pc and realiser, and phone/external display, if it were available...

Also, to all super-secret HD800 users... if you leave the HD 800 at home so there's little to no chance at Damage... this actually looks pretty good... I think it would Firm up and Even further improve the 'present wave presentation from the HD800, this actually looks like a phenomenal idea. I'm going to remove my plastic covers.

I've considered a much more open "fibbonacci" cover for the HD 800 drivers... that would open up the already (wonderful) HD 800 driver transducer wavePlane to the Ear.

Will let you know if I break my HD 800 drivers by simply removing the plastic... It comes off with just bolts, so looks unlikely.

Could be a modest change in the modeled sound after rechecking the hpeq

People just posted about "delidding" their headphone in the CES HD800 thread. ha! "OverClock-My-Headphone." I can Just See it... Realiser "Listener discretion IS-ADVISED."
Seems like a fairly good idea for the Realiser virtualization delivery...

*Maybe not just yet. It's got to be dismantled to remove the plastic shield. Probably would want to replace it with a more open shield but then lose the sdr, if the 6khz peak isn't too bad. Or just leave it stock.. although it appeared pretty simple. I'd reapply the dust cover to the new shield, or potentially just carefully mill portions out of the previous shield.. I think the dust cover to avoid pokey objects in all mainstays, is useful and probably worth keeping.

I think to keep this simple with the strength of the original ribs, and the optional helmholt resonator, I would keep the silicon -reapply the fabric shield layer, to the plastic shield right after milling, but remove select sections of the plastic ribs. To open, hollow it up some. I would mill the OD of the black outside ring some more to open up the width of the driver by 3.5 or so more mm radiating-diameter and remove 8 out of twelve 'inner-radius' ribs, and probably remove the liner of the larger ribs along the perimeter, again, extending the radiating area of the HD 800 driver, with respect to the in front of the ear / head by about 3.5 or 4mm... that would be simple and fun...

 

[Andrew Seeley]

Doing so might mess with or at least change-up the Pumping(ed)(air)load on the ear side of the HD 800 driver, at\from, the circumference (radiating inward), from moderate volumes and Louder but the only way to know would be to test... with a bit of impulse taking. Although the load would not change by "another-leap," changing the Outer Diameter tension loads on the Load of that ("cross")section or area of the ring-radiator,.. could have cascaded' mode of affects on the control (most of) the entire diaphragm.
The loading
Placed/damped load on the pattern of the driver, courtesy of the airload. Put a better way, but* when working with pressure, things are like chemistry and small changes influence uncanny results.

In a speaker design or a piston-like headphone. Cue Lewis Capaldis: "Before You Go" or "Hold (Mill-me Out) me while you wait" for results of the shield modifier. pic 4 is mine without the dustcover... Will remove the plastic when I have the chance in the next day or three.... I'm told by Reactor that without the plastic housing inserted the treble smooths out... which worries me, i confess!!!

My opinion: The plastic shield was built as part of the driver.... It's actually there to improve the performance of the driver. The pattern and depth into the diaphragm itself makes me think so... I'll try it, but my premature thought would be that The Black plastic shield does improve performance... given the shapes and how the shield, again, penetrates into the plane between the two curving sections to each side of the voicecoil.

The cover-free driver is interestingly clearer but the treble feels a little less damped without the mesh.

I like it. I'll try to pull the protector off, and put it on the outside... trumpets are clearer. Treble is more clear, and at the same time more wild, depending on the frequency of playback in varying ratio'. I will hollow probably hollow out the plastic perimeter, and reinsert without the driver covers.

Once I have the mics back I will recheck the hpeq, (and will compare with previous hpeqs). the frequency has definitely been, or maybe the finnesse's of the driver are all that have changed. And I think the perfect Realiser hpeq can equalize the changes back to required spec, of course.' This is certainly an interesting thing, to think about increasing the width of the HD Soundstage by another 3.5 or 4mm Ø driver cavity width, almost full-circumference.

I think that it is important to note, that the impact on the "clarity" of the treble is indeed both "different," compared with before, and notably : seems improved for certain. No doubt... the prirs I have are more pronounced in their quality when made on my own ears...

Now to test the bass response... from the realiser 15.1.8 Theater, the most Headphone and body-visceral bass from a headphone I've gotten yet... though the Omega bass is incredibly beautiful on it's own Merit.

I like it a Lot.

I think I will give a go without a shield protector, and then mill out the perimeter, and put it back in-as normal.

Yep

I will also use a laser cutter to somehow pattern the cloth in sensitive sections , or put it back along the ribs of the shield, because I can't think of something better to do with it, and it would reduce plastic-based reflections off the silicone glue at HFrequency irregardless that way.

Noting:
I can understand words I previously couldn't, would not definitely understand... thwy are here and there without the dust covers attached now I want that wider soundstage... I think I will not HOLLOW out the whole perimeter, but enough section to get the wider Soundstage I seek to try out.., while hopefully keeping the treble Hot and the bass guitar and accoustic thrumming damped in presentation. I do not want to smooth them out at all.

Vocals are more pleasing. Usually high baritone or Lady vocals and trumpets of all kinds and forms. Violin next.

Worthy note: I was wearing the HD 800 for two hours before simply taking the dust shield off completely, in different rooms, so the comparison is correct and is fair enough. without double blinding, but the difference seems to be here.

I think the black plastic shield should stay as CLOSE to the driver as possible. The gated two sections by the plastic clean up the air wave and loading of each side of the diaphragm for natural harmonics throughout the differing operating range of EACH side.

This refines the realiser recreation a little bit, even without a brand-new hpeq for the slight change in fr... it's mostly seeming to be a higher polling rate for the sinusoidal affects of nonlinear hearing integrity as fidelity is interpreted by the biological mind(this is both pleasant, non fatiguing and, daresay also a natural self-evident improvement.). Don't bump your hd 800 driver though

I'm using dolby atmos now on the realiser, and i think for the realiser, you want as large a driver as possible... in fact it looks like the outer ring radiator (as opposed to the inside ring radiator which is a traditiional 40mm diameter) bounces sound off the plastic rim to improve wave perception for a wider directivity..

Four, the last three images are headfi's maximum acceptable resolution. You have to click, because number 9002 exhibits the closeness of the plastic shield, which at the middle ring, is actually set into the face.

 

[musicreo]

Distortion or overload of the headphones (membranes collide, danger of damage) with loud bass scenes in movies are something I immediately encountered using my first Realiser A8.

Most headphones fall off in the low frequencies. Look at measurements from ASR you will see that boosting this frequency range to much often ends in audible distortions. Equalization in the low frequency regime is very limited with headphones.

 

[VandyMan]

Most headphones fall off in the low frequencies. Look at measurements from ASR you will see that boosting this frequency range to much often ends in audible distortions. Equalization in the low frequency regime is very limited with headphones.

If you lower the overall level by the same amount as the bass boost, then you will not run into distortion issues with most good headphones. In Roon, this is done through "Headroom management." I'm not sure if the A-16 does this.

 

[Des511]

When the Realiser is put in 24 channel mode and the speaker layout is 15.1.8.
What determines when all the channels are used when listening to a moves atmos track?

 

[Sanctuary]

When the Realiser is put in 24 channel mode and the speaker layout is 15.1.8.
What determines when all the channels are used when listening to a moves atmos track?

Atmos simply scales with the number of speakers you have, and if I'm not mistaken, when the sound designers mix the tracks, they have a very specific place where they want objects to be located and our speakers "approximate" the exact location by working together. The more speakers you have, the closer you can get to the initial target.

Whether or not the listening experience really changes all that much for the user after a certain amount of speakers however is another matter, since our brain can also "fill in the gaps" when objects are transitioning between the spaces left by any given speaker configuration as long as the gaps are not huge.

 

[audiohobbit]

Atmos simply scales with the number of speakers you have, and if I'm not mistaken, when the sound designers mix the tracks, they have a very specific place where they want objects to be located and our speakers "approximate" the exact location by working together. The more speakers you have, the closer you can get to the initial target.

That's the theory. In practice it's a bit different, at least with Atmos for home use (but I think it's comparable to the movie theater implementation):
The Atmos track consists of a so called "bed" and objects. The bed is a fixed channel count, and iirc can be up to 7.1.2 for Atmos@home. The bed is mixed like normal 7.1-or-similar sound (this I presume ensures compatibility to non-atmos playback). If additionally sound objects are used or not, is up to the mixing engineer.
Only if sound objects are used, those objects will be interpolated in the time domain between the available speakers, when moving. Bed channels are also somehow interpolated but not time dependent. I know of Atmos tracks that don't use objects for the top speakers (or no objects at all?) and seem to have a x.x.2 bed. With x.x.6 playback system, so with 6 top channels (front, mid, rear on either side) with such a track ONLY the two top mid speakers will play, the other top speakers will remain silent.
However with a x.x.4 system (so front and rear tops) the signal for one side is split to the front and rear tops, so the top mid left signal on the bed track is played back by the top rear left and top front left, with a lower level of course so that the summed level will be the same as from one speaker.
Having only a 9.1.6 capable Realiser I can only add that many Atmos tracks don't use the front wide speakers at all, so I think there are no objects used between front and side, or no objects at all.
I don't know how it is with even more channels, since in consumer devices this is very rare. Mainly with very expensive Trinnov gear, but they have their own channel mixer (or however it's called at Trinnov) to interpolate with their own algorithms between speakers.

So with 15.1.8 "pure Dolby" system I think you can only find out which speakers are used if you monitor the level bar graphs for every channel (press PA or PB a several times to switch between the views). After a while you will see that some speakers won't ever play anything, if for example no objects are used in this area (or no objects at all). Also if two adjacent speakers always have the same level could be a hint that there is just a bed channel interpolated between those speakers.

AFAIK there are devices that can show the used bed and objects during playback, probably the Trinnovs could have such a viewer (connected to a display).

 

[Eich1eeF]

[...]

AFAIK there are devices that can show the used bed and objects during playback, probably the Trinnovs could have such a viewer (connected to a display).

The Trinnov Altitudes are known for their Atmos Object Viewer, see e.g.

 

[GeorgeA]

@Eich1eeF By reading your posts it follows that you are either a professional or an advanced connoisseur in immersive sound formats. In the context of using Realiser A16 to play back Dolby Atmos and Auro-3D audio tracks, would the second format be more suitable because it is not object-based audio? In other words, as Auro-3D for home is not object audio, whilst Dolby Atmos is, then might Realiser A16 (SVS 16ch) sound somewhat more convincing in Auro-3D listening rooms? According to opinions of several users, at least Auromatic is better than other upmixers.

 

[musicreo]

If you lower the overall level by the same amount as the bass boost, then you will not run into distortion issues with most good headphones. In Roon, this is done through "Headroom management." I'm not sure if the A-16 does this.

This would be the case if the distortion is caused by clipping but the distortion is caused by the headphone limitation of playback the low frequencies at high volume.
The measurement here ( Sennheiser HD650 Review ) shows this for the HD650. The THD in the bass region increases a lot with playback at higher volume. If you have a scene in a movie where the bass is in all channels and summed up by the hrtf filter this distortion can be audible.

 

[LJG]

So I've added an AVR to my system and just wondering the new wiring config. Would it be all sources to AVR- AVR hdmi out to Realiser I Hdmi nput 1, Realiser Hdmi out to TV? I assume when Realiser is powered off Hdmi output is still active as pass-through?

 

[sander99]

So I've added an AVR to my system and just wondering the new wiring config. Would it be all sources to AVR- AVR hdmi out to Realiser I Hdmi nput 1, Realiser Hdmi out to TV? I assume when Realiser is powered off Hdmi output is still active as pass-through?

You must enable hdmi pass through in the A16 settings. (Page 42, 43 A16 manual).

I don't know if it is possible with each AVR. I can tell you how my Yamaha RX-V771 behaves, at this moment I don't have things wired like you propose but I had it at some point in the past:
Also in the AVR settings I had to enable HDMI pass through. And then it behaved as follows: When the AVR is in stand by then audio is passed on unchanged, so bitstreamed Dolby is passed on correctly, including Dolby True HD based Atmos (I don't know about other Atmos types, I didn't try at the time, and my A16 does not support DTS so I don't know about that either but it seems likely to me that with DTS it will be the same as with Dolby). But when the AVR is on it passes on a stereo downmix, not the bitstreamed multichannel! So in this configuration I could not use multichannel via speakers and multichannel via the A16 simultaniously. At leat that is how I remember it.