[Grue]

This is the base of my problem. It shows after right click on the speaker signal "loudspeaker setup" (I am translating from German, the original is (Lautsprechereinrichtung 7.1) If I try to switch to "Dolby Atmos for Home Theater" it will not stick.
If I use the Dolby access app it tells me that setup is not completed. It opens the settings, if I choose there Dolby Atmos it will say failure setting up 3D Sound (again the German is Raumklang).
It also worked for me on day one, but now no more.
How do I deinstall NVIDIA High Definition driver and replace it with the Microsoft generic one?

I need to power up A16 and make sure profiles are active before starting my computer to make dolby atmos selectable to hdmi output. If I start my computer first and then A16, I cannot for some reason make that selection.

 

[sander99]

Question: Did anyone with an A16 already try to get 2 channel SVS processed audio - intended for headphones - through the (A16 rearpanel) USB connection into a pc?
(That way it would be easy to record the output with a pc.)

 

[J.Villain]

i have to say - after all of the waiting over the past 3 years - it's been such a treat to listen to the Star Wars movies in Dolby Atmos with the A16 via Disney+.
very immersive experience!!

Can you confirm that they are using the height channels when the battle cruser goes over head in the opening sequence of episode IV? The Holy Grail of movie listening for me would be watching Star Wars using a Skywalker Ranch BRIR.

 

[audiohobbit]

I updated the thread in my link.
Divided it into issues solved, features added, and Q&A (with Stephen Smyth).

Referring to this post: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/smy...equests-tips-and-tricks.915293/#post-15300148

Read the last Q and A I put up.
It is as I thought: You can name as much users/headphones etc. as you like, only 4 (headphones) or 8 (users) at the same time, but this is not necessary. You enter a headphone name, make an HPEQ for this HP and then enter another name and overwrite the previous one and so on.
The saved HPEQs will have the name you entered. The Realiser is NOT limited to 4 headphones as you think.

This is just for a little more convenience for naming PRIRs and HPEQs.
With the A8 you had to enter the name EVERY single time you made a PRIR or HPEQ.
With the A16 you can choose this from a list. So you have to enter your name only once and can select it afterwards when creating PRIRs and HPEQs (and presets), you don't have to enter your name every single time.

 

[kh36267]

Can you confirm that they are using the height channels when the battle cruser goes over head in the opening sequence of episode IV? The Holy Grail of movie listening for me would be watching Star Wars using a Skywalker Ranch BRIR.

I decided to watch things in chronological order (in the Star Wars timeline) so started with Phantom Menace and now on Attack of the Clones. I can confirm, however, that there were several scenes which employed the height channels.....especially in some of the outer space battle sequences....
Crossing my fingers that by the time I get to episode IV I witness the opening sequence you described

 

[Dixter]

Use the force Luke....

 

[dsperber]

So I've now had one night of use of the new setup including ST/HT and cables. Looks like I was right about the three #4 clips used to secure the HT cable down against the edge of the Stax plastic headphone band. They seem to now be permanently "deformed" into their "open" state. Looks like the plastic has been "stressed" open beyond its physical memory to return with any grasping tension. They now have no ability to "grip" the plastic and remain securely fastened.

In contrast, the other seven #4 clips used along the length of the flat Stax HP ribbon cable are still fine. But they hadn't been required to "open up" quite so wide as the three failing ones. So they still want to "remain closed", and thus still grasp onto the edge of the ribbon cable.

I've decided to not use any tape (with some sort of adhesive) yet, since I don't want to do any damage to the Stax plastic headband as the adhesive ages and "cures". Instead I've purchased a roll of 1/2" wide Velcro tape, which is actually 1/2" strip that contains self-fastening Velcro on both sides. I will cut three or four small pieces and fasten them around the plastic headband and HT cable, trying to "squeeze" the three #4 Smyth clips against the edge of the headband. Let's see if I can make it work. I may do something similar down the full length of the HP/HT cable as well, just to keep the two wires together neatly better than I've accomplished with the #4 and #5 Smyth clips.

Looks like the velcro tape solution is PERFECT. Haven't had a chance to put the HP on my head yet and watch something, but it feels quite secure and stable and stationary.

For others who might want to do the same thing, this is the 25' roll of 1/2" double-sided velcro "tape" that I bought. Looks like this in real life:

You can cut a strip of any length and then wrap it around anything you want, and either side of the velcro sticks to the other side. No adhesive, just hook-and-eye velcro. I used strips of about 6" which was about right to wrap around the width of the Stax plastic headband, right over the #4 Smyth clip (with no more tension left between the "jaws") still pressed against the edge of the headband and holding the HT cable exactly as before. But now each clip/cable is held tightly in place by the velcro tape wrapped around it.

The velcro tape strips weigh nothing, and there is zero adhesive involved that might do damage over the long term as would be the case using some kind of actual painter's tape.

It is easy to really wrap these strips tightly because the plastic headband is solid. It might be more challenging and probably a bit less effective to use the same approach along the full length of the HT cable plus extension HT cable which is currently clipped using ten Smyth #5 and five Smyth #4. But since the Stax flat ribbon cable (to which the Smyth clips attach) is very different than the unyielding Stax plastic headband, maybe just the Smyth clips will be sufficient.

We shall see if the long HP/HT cable held together only with clips is physically sufficient to meet everyday needs, before trying the velcro tape enhancement.

 

[mrmac]

I would agree on reference volume and a volume display in -xx dB as most AVRs do have. In the prototype they had it like this I think, same with the A8. Don't know why they changed it to this. But to be honest: It's not that important. I set the volume to a level I find acceptable at the beginning of a movie and maybe adjust it once or twice during the movie.
And you can't rely on any reference because movies are mastered with different volume levels. Some are very loud, some not. This should not happen but it's reality unfortunately.

I think this IS important and I'm surprised that it wasn't already implemented let alone discussed here. Surely the pro market needs to mix at some reference volume. However it will be very interesting to hear from the Smyth’s why they abandoned it. Maybe it didn’t work? Maybe there is to many variables to reach an exact reference. Worth asking about.

I made a totally different experience with my "I-Beam". I use the headphone outs and an external DSP and it is cutoff at 150 Hz roughly. In reality you can feel loud deep low male voices and the lower guitar strings for example. Normal guitar starts at 80 Hz afaik. Man can sense vibration to up to about 200 Hz I think.
It maybe that your experience is caused by a lack of equalizing the tactile transducer (wich one do you use?).
If I use my I-Beam without any EQing it would have a massive peak at around 50 Hz and would play as a so called "one note bass" which is very annoying. And depending on your chair/sofa etc. and where the transduce is mounted there will be more resonances introduced. An equalizing of thos resonances is mandatory, otherwise a tactile transducer is only annoying.
Smyth should just expand the range of cutoff frequencies in both directions and add a few bands of parametric EQ. I already told them back in 2016 or 17 when they were open for suggestions.

I use the Buttkicker Advanced. I have two but currently only use one. Back a number of years (before kids) I had a very involved system using both digital equaliser (Behringer FBQ2496) and compression gates (Behringer MDX2600) to incorporate tactile in a way that worked very well. So yes, the more adjustments (eq, adjustable cut-offs etc) that can be added (if possible) would be much needed. I like the tactile to only be felt when there is some incredibly deep bass. Not all the time, hence the need for a much lower cutoff.

Also, is there anyone using subwoofer and headphones at the same time? Do you use the tactile output for the sub?

Digital outs should be switchable to a fixed level, I agree. I put this on my list and propose it to Stephen. I think that's not a big deal to implement.

Yes, but how will this effect tactile outputs? Full volume? Ideally it would alow the A volume to keep control for the tactile output, and your external DAC/amp for the volume for the headphones.

You could use 2 presets, one with upmixer and the other w.o. upmixer. This is basically what I do, but somewhat differnt. I have basically 2 presets (from the Surrey room): 9.1.6 with upmixer and a 5.1.
For 7.1 and Atmos I use the 9.1.6 with upmixer. A 7.1 signal is upmixed to 7.1.6. Front wides are never used. So no change in the horizontal plane compared to the original. And the top speakers are used very little, only for a bit music, so no big distraction either. So I don't need a specific 7.1 setup.
With 5.1 I can decide to use the specific 5.1 setup or let it upmix to 7.1.6.
Basically that's all you need. I doubled this because I need 2 different lipsync settings depending of the material being 24 Hz or 60 Hz.

I know, but this is such a convoluted and messy way to have to build up whole presets just for different inputs and different upmixes...

I think you got this wrong. The remote and HT slave outputs are there to connect two A16s and use them with one headtracker and one remote control. See manual p. 23.
There is no trigger output.

No I didn't get it wrong. I know what those outputs are for. But they will only be used for crazy unusual scenarios when you have multiple A16 working together in some 32 channel scenario. For us mere mortals it's never gonna be used. Maybe if we are lucky, those outputs can output a trigger voltage and hence be used for that. Worth asking for.

What about Dirac live? That would make all my dreams come true...

 

[Eich1eeF]

I think this IS important and I'm surprised that it wasn't already implemented let alone discussed here. Surely the pro market needs to mix at some reference volume. However it will be very interesting to hear from the Smyth’s why they abandoned it. Maybe it didn’t work? Maybe there is to many variables to reach an exact reference. Worth asking about.

Shouldn't that be essentially automatic if you record the PRIR at the reference level of a mixing stage and play back at the "correct" volume setting with a proper HPEQ for your headphones? One would just have to figure out the required settings, and that won't work if the A16 does some automatic level setting to normalize the PRIR.

What about Dirac live? That would make all my dreams come true...

I also hope the apm-89l does have enough spare cycles for dirac, and that the Smyths find the time to implement it one day...

 

[audiohobbit]

Are you willing to pay let's say a 1000 € extra for Dirac live?

 

[J.Villain]

Surely the pro market needs to mix at some reference volume. However it will be very interesting to hear from the Smyth’s why they abandoned it. Maybe it didn’t work? Maybe there is to many variables to reach an exact reference. Worth asking about.

When you mix you use the level meters in the interface of the software you are using. When I mix video I use Davinci Resolve and use the meters from the output section of Fairlight. In the old analogue days it worked the same way. You use the meters on the mixer and never touch the amps. What matters isn't the levels you are sending out, it is the levels that you are delivering.

 

[Indisch]

Hi everyone,

it’s really nice to see you guys figuring out the A16 and that you seem to be making progress. This will be a good preparation for the most of us. So thanks a lot.

I am thinking about paying the difference to receive my Realiser before Christmas as I preordered and it would take another year or so to get mine at this rate. I was hoping someone could answer me a few questions to help me with the decision. I will be using the A16 mostly with my ps4 for gaming and movies. My questions are as follows:

1. in a previous post somebody mentioned having a high latency with his gaming console. Is this still the case and was just the audio delayed or the video too so that one has a higher input lag.
2. How is the detail of the audio? With the creative Sfxi I noticed that some detail is lost and I don’t hear footsteps as well anymore.
3. is the upmixer working yet? Most games and movies/shows I have only have 5.1 sometimes 7.1. I would like to upmix them to Atmos. If this is possible, how is the quality?
4. Is it worth paying the full price?

Any help or advice to help with my decision would be much appreciated.

 

[Eich1eeF]

Are you willing to pay let's say a 1000 € extra for Dirac live?

Just for the Dirac license? Maybe 300 EUR. For 1000 EUR, i'd expect an all digital AES/EBU 16 channel in/out board to be included in the bundle. With those features, the A16 could compete with > 10000 EUR AV Processors.

 

[blubliss]

I figured out what is locking up my unit. The screen locks up any time I use the volume up/down on remote. Not good. Sounds still works, as does power button on remote, but nothing else.

This is firmware 1.76. I guess I will email Smyth.

Edit: All working again after a firmware re-flash. I was told 1.76. and 1.75 are the same, I have 1.75 now.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Just for the Dirac license? Maybe 300 EUR. For 1000 EUR, i'd expect an all digital AES/EBU 16 channel in/out board to be included in the bundle. With those features, the A16 could compete with > 10000 EUR AV Processors.

I have DL on my PC. Didn't cost 1,000 EUR which is about $1,150 USD. It cost $425 USD. I expect it could be added to the Realiser for a comparable ammount. That is, of course, unless were talking a 16 channel version. But I think the multi-channel is currently limited to 7.1 channels.