[makan]

eARC question/troubleshooting. I have an eARC capable TV, a Hisense U6GR that is eARC capable. https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/hisense/u6gr

Playing Disney plus on it with movies that have Dolby atmos, eARC works to the A16 but only picks up Dolby digital 5.1. This is with the TV’s digital output set on “auto”. If I use pass through, there is no sound. My HDMI cables are from 2010, so do you think a new 4K hi speed hdmi cable might do the trick? Anyone have success with passing Dolby atmos through eARC? Thanks.

 

[dsperber]

eARC question/troubleshooting. I have an eARC capable TV, a Hisense U6GR that is eARC capable. https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/hisense/u6gr

Playing Disney plus on it with movies that have Dolby atmos, eARC works to the A16 but only picks up Dolby digital 5.1. This is with the TV’s digital output set on “auto”. If I use pass through, there is no sound. My HDMI cables are from 2010, so do you think a new 4K hi speed hdmi cable might do the trick? Anyone have success with passing Dolby atmos through eARC? Thanks.

Do you also have an AVR in your setup? What is your cabling arrangement connecting sources, AVR, A16 and TV? Hopefully you have an AVR.

"Pass-through" is absolutely the correct setting on the TV for output format, when "HDMI-ARC" is set as digital output for sound on the TV. That's certainly how it must be on my LG C9. The only other choice is "AUTO" or "PCM", both of which produce down-mixed 2.0 stereo out for the sound coming from the TV to the device at the other end of the HDMI cable, i.e. the A16 (or AVR in a conventional arrangement for eARC).

But to repeat what I mentioned in my post regarding eARC and Atmos two pages back:

I've learned something new about the A16: IT CANNOT BE "DEAD-ENDED" if you want to get Atmos audio via eARC from TV apps.

In other words you cannot just have the one HDMI cable going between HDMI-out of the A16 and the TV, with no other HDMI cable connected to the A16 (i.e. just the TV and A16 are connected together via one HDMI cable, and no other HDMI handshake-visible device is in use or connected through other HDMI cables). Because if you do have the A16 "dead-ended" like this, and only connected to the TV, then it will NOT provide necessary EDID information to tell the TV apps that it is capable of receiving Dolby Atmos audio! So for example Netflix app on the TV will only send 5.1 audio to the "dead-ended" A16, not Dolby Atmos audio.

And of course we DO want Dolby Atmos audio delivered via eARC from TV app to the A16. But in order to make that happen it turns out you MUST ALSO CONNECT a second HDMI cable between one of the HDMI inputs of the A16 and the HDMI-out of the AVR (which can tell the TV it is capable of receiving Atmos, through the A16). Even though this HDMI cable has no direct function in delivering eARC audio between TV app and A16, it IS involved in the HDMI handshake initiated by the TV (e.g. Netflix) app in deciding what type of audio and video should be delivered. And apparently the AVR and its Atmos-capable ability is now seen because of that second HDMI cable connecting A16 input to AVR output., and that's all that is needed to satisfy the TV app during the handshake. It will now agree to provide Dolby Atmos audio out via eARC over that HDMI cable going to the A16's HDMI output (even though it is obviously not going any further and on to the AVR).

To repeat: apparently the A16 by itself, "dead-ended" on the one HDMI cable to the TV, does NOT present itself in the HDMI handshake as capable of Dolby Atmos. So only 5.1 audio will offered and delivered out from the TV via eARC to the A16. But if you add that second HDMI cable from any HDMI input on the A16 to the HDMI-out of the AVR, now the TV app WILL agree to send out Dolby Atmos audio via eARC.

==> Even in my yet again newly adjusted source/AVR/A16 cabling configuration that eliminates the now-rejected splitter and instead has the TV connected directly to HDMI1-out of the AVR (to bring back HDMI-CEC along with eARC from TV to AVR for listening through speakers), even when moving the AVR-end of the HDMI cable going to the TV over to the HDMI-out of the A16 to enable eARC audio from TV to the A16 for listening through headphones, it is ALSO NECESSARY TO CONNECT A SECOND HDMI CABLE FROM ANY A16 INPUT TO HDMI-OUT OF THE AVR. It is the "visibility" of the Atmos-capable AVR during the HDMI handshake, through this second HDMI cable connecting A16 to AVR, that tells the TV app it's ok to send Dolby Atmos out via eARC over HDMI, which is by definition to the A16. By itself, "dead-ended". the A16 does NOT provide such "I can accept Dolby Atmos" response in the HDMI handshake.

 

[Got the Shakes]

eARC question/troubleshooting. I have an eARC capable TV, a Hisense U6GR that is eARC capable. https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/hisense/u6gr

Playing Disney plus on it with movies that have Dolby atmos, eARC works to the A16 but only picks up Dolby digital 5.1. This is with the TV’s digital output set on “auto”. If I use pass through, there is no sound. My HDMI cables are from 2010, so do you think a new 4K hi speed hdmi cable might do the trick? Anyone have success with passing Dolby atmos through eARC? Thanks.

I have a LG CX and have no issues passing Atmos from my tv to the A16 via eARC. It used to be hot or miss, but I think a combination of the 2.05 firmware on the A16 and most recent firmware updates on my tv fixed it. I used to have to do a dance of enabling and disabling eARC on my TV to get fit to work, but that is no longer the case.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Do you also have an AVR in your setup? What is your cabling arrangement connecting sources, AVR, A16 and TV? Hopefully you have an AVR.

"Pass-through" is absolutely the correct setting on the TV for output format, when "HDMI-ARC" is set as digital output for sound on the TV. That's certainly how it must be on my LG C9. The only other choice is "AUTO" or "PCM", both of which produce down-mixed 2.0 stereo out for the sound coming from the TV to the device at the other end of the HDMI cable, i.e. the A16 (or AVR in a conventional arrangement for eARC).

But to repeat what I mentioned in my post regarding eARC and Atmos two pages back:

I've learned something new about the A16: IT CANNOT BE "DEAD-ENDED" if you want to get Atmos audio via eARC from TV apps.

In other words you cannot just have the one HDMI cable going between HDMI-out of the A16 and the TV, with no other HDMI cable connected to the A16 (i.e. just the TV and A16 are connected together via one HDMI cable, and no other HDMI handshake-visible device is in use or connected through other HDMI cables). Because if you do have the A16 "dead-ended" like this, and only connected to the TV, then it will NOT provide necessary EDID information to tell the TV apps that it is capable of receiving Dolby Atmos audio! So for example Netflix app on the TV will only send 5.1 audio to the "dead-ended" A16, not Dolby Atmos audio.

And of course we DO want Dolby Atmos audio delivered via eARC from TV app to the A16. But in order to make that happen it turns out you MUST ALSO CONNECT a second HDMI cable between one of the HDMI inputs of the A16 and the HDMI-out of the AVR (which can tell the TV it is capable of receiving Atmos, through the A16). Even though this HDMI cable has no direct function in delivering eARC audio between TV app and A16, it IS involved in the HDMI handshake initiated by the TV (e.g. Netflix) app in deciding what type of audio and video should be delivered. And apparently the AVR and its Atmos-capable ability is now seen because of that second HDMI cable connecting A16 input to AVR output., and that's all that is needed to satisfy the TV app during the handshake. It will now agree to provide Dolby Atmos audio out via eARC over that HDMI cable going to the A16's HDMI output (even though it is obviously not going any further and on to the AVR).

To repeat: apparently the A16 by itself, "dead-ended" on the one HDMI cable to the TV, does NOT present itself in the HDMI handshake as capable of Dolby Atmos. So only 5.1 audio will offered and delivered out from the TV via eARC to the A16. But if you add that second HDMI cable from any HDMI input on the A16 to the HDMI-out of the AVR, now the TV app WILL agree to send out Dolby Atmos audio via eARC.

==> Even in my yet again newly adjusted source/AVR/A16 cabling configuration that eliminates the now-rejected splitter and instead has the TV connected directly to HDMI1-out of the AVR (to bring back HDMI-CEC along with eARC from TV to AVR for listening through speakers), even when moving the AVR-end of the HDMI cable going to the TV over to the HDMI-out of the A16 to enable eARC audio from TV to the A16 for listening through headphones, it is ALSO NECESSARY TO CONNECT A SECOND HDMI CABLE FROM ANY A16 INPUT TO HDMI-OUT OF THE AVR. It is the "visibility" of the Atmos-capable AVR during the HDMI handshake, through this second HDMI cable connecting A16 to AVR, that tells the TV app it's ok to send Dolby Atmos out via eARC over HDMI, which is by definition to the A16. By itself, "dead-ended". the A16 does NOT provide such "I can accept Dolby Atmos" response in the HDMI handshake.

So having something like the NVidia shield connected to a second Atmos input on the A16 would solve this problem? Certainly hope an AV receiver is not required to make eARC work b/c I plan to buy an LG C1 this spring and I want to use the TV as the ATMOS source for the A16, and, inasmuch as the A16 replaces the need for an Atmos AV receiver in my case, what earthly good would eARC be for me or anyone else who doesn't want that massive and expensive chunk of hardware in his living room ? Any why isn't the A16 recognized as an Atmos receiver? And is there anyone who can confirm this issue, and/or bring it to the Smyth's attention?

 

[makan]

Do you also have an AVR in your setup? What is your cabling arrangement connecting sources, AVR, A16 and TV? Hopefully you have an AVR.

"Pass-through" is absolutely the correct setting on the TV for output format, when "HDMI-ARC" is set as digital output for sound on the TV. That's certainly how it must be on my LG C9. The only other choice is "AUTO" or "PCM", both of which produce down-mixed 2.0 stereo out for the sound coming from the TV to the device at the other end of the HDMI cable, i.e. the A16 (or AVR in a conventional arrangement for eARC).

But to repeat what I mentioned in my post regarding eARC and Atmos two pages back:

I've learned something new about the A16: IT CANNOT BE "DEAD-ENDED" if you want to get Atmos audio via eARC from TV apps.

In other words you cannot just have the one HDMI cable going between HDMI-out of the A16 and the TV, with no other HDMI cable connected to the A16 (i.e. just the TV and A16 are connected together via one HDMI cable, and no other HDMI handshake-visible device is in use or connected through other HDMI cables). Because if you do have the A16 "dead-ended" like this, and only connected to the TV, then it will NOT provide necessary EDID information to tell the TV apps that it is capable of receiving Dolby Atmos audio! So for example Netflix app on the TV will only send 5.1 audio to the "dead-ended" A16, not Dolby Atmos audio.

And of course we DO want Dolby Atmos audio delivered via eARC from TV app to the A16. But in order to make that happen it turns out you MUST ALSO CONNECT a second HDMI cable between one of the HDMI inputs of the A16 and the HDMI-out of the AVR (which can tell the TV it is capable of receiving Atmos, through the A16). Even though this HDMI cable has no direct function in delivering eARC audio between TV app and A16, it IS involved in the HDMI handshake initiated by the TV (e.g. Netflix) app in deciding what type of audio and video should be delivered. And apparently the AVR and its Atmos-capable ability is now seen because of that second HDMI cable connecting A16 input to AVR output., and that's all that is needed to satisfy the TV app during the handshake. It will now agree to provide Dolby Atmos audio out via eARC over that HDMI cable going to the A16's HDMI output (even though it is obviously not going any further and on to the AVR).

To repeat: apparently the A16 by itself, "dead-ended" on the one HDMI cable to the TV, does NOT present itself in the HDMI handshake as capable of Dolby Atmos. So only 5.1 audio will offered and delivered out from the TV via eARC to the A16. But if you add that second HDMI cable from any HDMI input on the A16 to the HDMI-out of the AVR, now the TV app WILL agree to send out Dolby Atmos audio via eARC.

==> Even in my yet again newly adjusted source/AVR/A16 cabling configuration that eliminates the now-rejected splitter and instead has the TV connected directly to HDMI1-out of the AVR (to bring back HDMI-CEC along with eARC from TV to AVR for listening through speakers), even when moving the AVR-end of the HDMI cable going to the TV over to the HDMI-out of the A16 to enable eARC audio from TV to the A16 for listening through headphones, it is ALSO NECESSARY TO CONNECT A SECOND HDMI CABLE FROM ANY A16 INPUT TO HDMI-OUT OF THE AVR. It is the "visibility" of the Atmos-capable AVR during the HDMI handshake, through this second HDMI cable connecting A16 to AVR, that tells the TV app it's ok to send Dolby Atmos out via eARC over HDMI, which is by definition to the A16. By itself, "dead-ended". the A16 does NOT provide such "I can accept Dolby Atmos" response in the HDMI handshake.

Thanks...I have an AVR, but it is from 2009...so no atmos....I will give it a try and see what happens, but will also get an updated HDMI cable (mine is not 2.0 as it is from 2010). Mind you, my blu ray player is connected to the TV....I bypass the AVR. The blu ray player has another hdmi audio out only which connects to the A16

 

[makan]

I have a LG CX and have no issues passing Atmos from my tv to the A16 via eARC. It used to be hot or miss, but I think a combination of the 2.05 firmware on the A16 and most recent firmware updates on my tv fixed it. I used to have to do a dance of enabling and disabling eARC on my TV to get fit to work, but that is no longer the case.

Mmmm, so no other hdmi connection from the AVR as described by @phoenixdogfan ? just between the tv and a16? hopefully, when I get an updated HDMI cable (mine is not 2.0 as it is from 2010), it will work.

 

[Got the Shakes]

Mmmm, so no other hdmi connection from the AVR as described by @phoenixdogfan ? just between the tv and a16? hopefully, when I get an updated HDMI cable (mine is not 2.0 as it is from 2010), it will work.

No. the A16 is the only AVR in my chain. I have three devices connected to my tv in HDMI 1, 3, and 4. My A16 is connected to HDMI 2 which is my TVs eARC port and that cable runs to the A16’s output which is also its eARC port. No other receiver anywhere else in the chain.

 

[dsperber]

Mmmm, so no other hdmi connection from the AVR as described by @phoenixdogfan ? just between the tv and a16? hopefully, when I get an updated HDMI cable (mine is not 2.0 as it is from 2010), it will work.

Well, for sure only proper "premium certified" HDMI cables (which have the HDMI logo on the packaging) should be used. These are the 18Gb/s variety and conform to all audio and video performance requirements for Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos, as well as HDCP 2.2 for security.

Yes, I was certainly originally of the opinion that all I had to do was move the AVR-end of the 20ft-optical/HDMI cable connecting the HDMI-out of my Yamaha RX-A1080 that was going to HDMI2-in of my LG C9, over to the HDMI-out of the A16. And then I simply had to change the "audio source" of the relevant A16 preset to "eARC", and set audio-out of the C9 to "HDMI-ARC" and set the digital output type to "pass-through". And that was all that was needed for Dolby Atmos to be provided from TV apps (e.g. Netflix) to the A16. Should have worked.

But it didn't. Instead, the Netflix app only offered 5.1 audio for "The Two Popes".

Note that in the normal original configuration with that identical 20ft-optical/HDMI cable still in place going from AVR HDMI-out to the very same HDMI2-in of the C9 I can run the identical Netflix app on the TV with the identical eARC settings to send audio back to the AVR, and Dolby Atmos is presented. Obviously the A1080 is indicating during the HDMI handshake with the C9 that it can accept Dolby Atmos, and so the Netflix app delivers it.

But if all I do is disconnect the AVR-end of that 20ft-optical/HDMi cable from the AVR, and move it over to the HDMI-out of the A16... leaving the HDMI-out of the AVR disconnected... well now the TV Netflix app only delivers 5.1 to the A16.

And yet, as I originally reported in my earlier post, my "solution" was to add one additional HDMI cable (technically of no value or purpose for delivering audio from TV to A16) going from any HDMI input on the A16 to the HDMI-out of the AVR. Obviously couldn't connect that second HDMI cable to HDMI-out of the A16 because that is already currently in use connecting to the TV (for the primary purpose of delivery of eARC audio from the TV to the A16). But simply having that second HDMI cable connected from the temporarily vacated HDMI-out of the AVR to any input of the A16 apparently allows it to participate in some way during the HDMI handshake from the Netflix app running on the TV, in order to determine what type of audio is acceptable to the devices at the other end of the HDMI cable delivering eARC audio. And the apparent "visibility" of the AVR (which obviously is Atmos-capable) somehow makes up for the apparent unacceptability of the A16 by itself... i.e. "dead-ended" from the TV via one HDMI cable and going no further.

Now HDMI-CEC (LG calls it "Simplink") is a fragile and delicate technology. It is required for eARC of course, and that opens the door for lots of "who knows if this will work". Just as in the early days of HDMI handshake when things might or might not work, and what types of cables were required, etc., manufacturers are actually putting disclaimers into documentation absolving themselves of any "guarantee" that HDMI-CEC will work 100% as expected.

Anyway, that was my experience. With A16 "dead-ended" to the TV, eARC audio only delivered 5.1. Add the HDMI cable between an A16 input and HDMI-out of the AVR, and now eARC audio delivers Dolby Atmos to the A16. Move the 20ft-optical/HDMI cable back from A16's HDMI-out to the AVR's HDMI-out, and still eARC audio delivers Dolby Atmos to the AVR and its speakers. Clearly it was the AVR and not the A16 that was telling the TV that Dolby Atmos was "acceptable", with the A16 by itself (i.e. "dead-ended") not doing that. Did I expect this? No.

I'm open to hearing stories from others, but for me and my project of the past few weeks getting things set up for maximum convenience using my new A1080 that is what I had to do when I wanted Atmos via eARC from C9 to the A16.

 

[Hoylen]

Now I've finally got around to trying out the IP commands for the realiser, only to find the A16 does not respond in the way the manual suggets. It could be I'm doing something wrong (I'm a teacher, not a network engineer) or there could be some deeper issues with the IP control.

So, before I email James (and likely hear nothing back), has anyone else had a go at IP control?

I have found the IP Command Server to be less reliable since I upgraded to firmware rev 2.05 (revised) and enabling DTS:X support. Before that it was reliable under firmware rev 1.98.

By "less reliable", I mean randomly the responses to commands are not generated. On average, I've measured between 4% to 7% of commands sent do not get responses generated. It is worse within the first 0.5 seconds after establishing the TCP/IP connection, where about 25% fail. It seems random, so the failure rate can vary greatly: sometimes I've even seen every second response not get generated (50% failure). When a response is not generated, it could be because the command was never received, never executed or the command was executed but just the response was not generated. This is most obvious with commands like "decrementing the volume": sometimes the volume was not changed, but sometimes it was changed even though there was no response.

Because of this, the DemoPad Centro control app behaves poorly but still functions. For example, you might have to press a button several times before it responds.

If you are testing the protocol using the Packet Sender application, try sending the command several times and you may be lucky that some of them will succeed. The first attempt sometimes produces no response, even though you have done everything correctly.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

No. the A16 is the only AVR in my chain. I have three devices connected to my tv in HDMI 1, 3, and 4. My A16 is connected to HDMI 2 which is my TVs eARC port and that cable runs to the A16’s output which is also its eARC port. No other receiver anywhere else in the chain.

Well, that's reassuring. Doesn't make sense that you would have to have an Atmos receiver connected via HDMI to the A16 just to get your TV to pass Atmos to the Realizer via eARC.

 

[Got the Shakes]

Mmmm, so no other hdmi connection from the AVR as described by @phoenixdogfan ? just between the tv and a16? hopefully, when I get an updated HDMI cable (mine is not 2.0 as it is from 2010), it will work.

And actually I glossed over this, but it's going to the the cable that fixes this for you I think. ARC with will work with any HDMI cable, but doesn't support Atmos. eARC needs an HDMI cable with ethernet or High Speed HDMI cable with ethernet. My guess is you old cable doesn't have it so your tv is actually defaulting to ARC and not using eARC.

 

[dsperber]

No. the A16 is the only AVR in my chain. I have three devices connected to my tv in HDMI 1, 3, and 4. My A16 is connected to HDMI 2 which is my TVs eARC port and that cable runs to the A16’s output which is also its eARC port. No other receiver anywhere else in the chain.

Interesting difference here, is that your delivery of Atmos in your setup is from apps running on external sources fed into the TV, and then audio out via eARC to the A16.

This utilizes the HDMI handshake running from the sources (which is making the determination of whether or not to deliver Atmos from the app running on that source device) through one HDMI cable and then through a second HDMI cable from the TV to the A16. So, for example, it is the Netflix app on Roku or ATV4K or Shield, etc. that is involved.

In my story, I am using an app actually running on the TV itself which is initiating the HDMI handshake to determine audio format, talking directly to the A16 through just that one cable. So it is the LG version of the Netflix app which is involved.

Should there be any difference? Not in our minds, of course. Might there be a difference? Absolutely. Should the A16 and its eARC technology accept Atmos even if "dead-ended" connected only to the TV? I would certainly expect so. Did it for me, using the LG Netflix app? No.

Very important fact/clue: the 20ft-optical/HDMI cable is not a factor. Note that when connected directly from HDMI-out of the AVR to the HDMI2-in of the C9, eARC audio from Netflix running on the TV WILL deliver Atmos audio to the AVR. It's only when that exact same cable is moved over to connect to HDMI-out of the A16 that Atmos is no longer offered by the identical Netflix app running on the TV.

Clearly it's something else that causes the different results at least in my situation, and whether Atmos is offered or not.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

And actually I glossed over this, but it's going to the the cable that fixes this for you I think. ARC with will work with any HDMI cable, but doesn't support Atmos. eARC needs an HDMI cable with ethernet or High Speed HDMI cable with ethernet. My guess is you old cable doesn't have it so your tv is actually defaulting to ARC and not using eARC.

Any HDMI cable rated 2.0 should work. If the cable is rated for 1.4, not so much. 2.1 is only needed by gamers.

 

[Got the Shakes]

Interesting difference here, is that your delivery of Atmos in your setup is from apps running on external sources fed into the TV, and then audio out via eARC to the A16.

This utilizes the HDMI handshake running from the sources (which is making the determination of whether or not to deliver Atmos from the app running on that source device) through one HDMI cable and then through a second HDMI cable from the TV to the A16. So, for example, it is the Netflix app on Roku or ATV4K or Shield, etc. that is involved.

In my story, I am using an app actually running on the TV itself which is initiating the HDMI handshake to determine audio format, talking directly to the A16 through just that one cable. So it is the LG version of the Netflix app which is involved.

Should there be any difference? Not in our minds, of course. Might there be a difference? Absolutely. Should the A16 and its eARC technology accept Atmos even if "dead-ended" connected only to the TV? I would certainly expect so. Did it for me, using the LG Netflix app? No.

Very important fact/clue: the 20ft-optical/HDMI cable is not a factor. Note that when connected directly from HDMI-out of the AVR to the HDMI2-in of the C9, eARC audio from Netflix running on the TV WILL deliver Atmos audio to the AVR. It's only when that exact same cable is moved over to connect to HDMI-out of the A16 that Atmos is no longer offered by the identical Netflix app running on the TV.

Clearly it's something else that causes the different results at least in my situation, and whether Atmos is offered or not.

So I actually do both and have not had issues with either. My external sources are all gaming devices and I run those to my tv because they all support HDMI 2.1 which I would lose if I connected directly to the A16. I also use the internal apps on my tv and have no issues with Atmos there either. I just tested using the built in Netflix app playing episode 1 of The Witcher, and was getting 15.1.8 fed to the A16 over eARC. I don't use the internal apps often as I have my streaming boxes connected directly to the A16's HDMI 1-4 ports and I prefer using them.

Any HDMI cable rated 2.0 should work. If the cable is rated for 1.4, not so much. 2.1 is only needed by gamers.

Absolutely. He did mention that he has a cable from 2010 that is not a 2.0 cable (which makes sense since memory tells me 2.0 officially launched in 2012 or 2013), I sort of sped through his post and didn't seize on that. My assumption is that is the source of all of his Atmos/eARC issues.

 

[edwardsean]

I'm not sure if this is actually my A16 is being shipped already, but I got a notice from UPS yesterday, and one today and kind of ignored it until just now because I was expecting something from Amazon today (that arrived yesterday). I just got another update and looked at the location, and it says the label was made yesterday in the UK, and my package is currently at Newtownabbey UK, scheduled to arrive tomorrow. If that's the A16, that was a very quick delivery. When James said up to fourteen days, I was actually thinking I'd see mine anywhere between the second and third week of this month.

Looking back over the thread, @Sanctuary you were able to pay the difference between your preorder and full price, is that right?

How long did it take between contacting Smyth and seeing this ship notice?