[sander99]

My question is: do i need to build the 15.1.8 PRIR first then perform a ManLoud HPEQ to EQ all the spkrs or just use my own HPEQ ManSpkrs that i already done with my personal 9.1.6 PRIR ? Knowing that the ManLoudHPEQ and the HPEQ ManSpkrs are only acting on the EQ of the L,C and R channels only..

ManLoudHPEQ and the HPEQ ManSpkrs are NOT only acting on the EQ of the L,C and R channels, it is just that you only use the L, C and R channels to perform the manloud or manspeakers procedure. And the reason for that is that the front speakers are the most critical to get right.
So unfortunately, when you mix speakers from your own personal PRIRs with speakers from generic PRIRs you can do nothing to optimise both.
If you do this mix, best is to just use the HPEQ that works best for your own personal speakers (especially assuming you will use the L, R and C from your personal PRIR).

I expect it will not sound great at all, unless the non-personal PRIR sounds good to you due to a coincidental match with your personal HRTF, but you can try of course.

 

[Janska]

Ok, I switched my TV on before starting windows and now I'm able to get 7.1 audio from windows games, I also changed loudspeaker setup from all of my audio devices to 7.1 when I could. I'm not sure which setting nailed it, but I'm quite sure this was an HDCP issue.

Nvidia control panel also notified that there is a repeater and it might cause some problems.



So, this is something to try if you have problems with multichannel audio in games. This is strange as I could get Dolby Atmos from netflix app, but no 7.1 from games as I think this HDCP thing is targeted more towards digital video/music content than games.

At the moment I don't have a TV/Screen behind the A16 (it's only used for audio), so there's no HDCP approved path for audio. My guess here is, that HDCP does not impact games at all, so it must be your multichannel speaker setups with windows that did the trick.

 

[castleofargh]

I don't know. To be honest the only one I remember so far that posts a bit confusing stuff about 5.1 or Atmos or upmix or not, is Dixter (sorry)
Maybe some don't read the display right:
If an Atmos track is playing it says:
DOLBY
ATMOS

If a normal Dolby track (2.0, 5.1, 7.1) is playing it says:
DOLBY
AUDIO

One can easily misread this I'd say.

Using a video player in Win10, I usually have the "right" behavior so long as I set the player to pass through the audio. Then it doesn't seem to matter if Windows "configure" in the sound setting is set to stereo or anything else for the A16. I said stuff about the atmos app, at least for that use it was all BS, I have since removed that cro$oft app without any change on that particular use. But I have no idea what other apps or games are seeing or offering as audio settings. Without a passtrough/bitstream option, or something to tell the app that it can use that, things might end up weird sometimes, I guess.

I've also encountered situations that did look like what was mentioned. Seeing Atmos but not going beyond 5.1 on the virtual speakers set with a higher number of speakers in the room for example.
Then again I also had a case where the A16 was saying stereo and not moving from it, despite me playing multichannel stuff. Not knowing what was going on, I just rebooted the PC+A16 and all was good again. I also got the upmixer not upmixing, but I can't remember under which circumstances at all.
And all that happened with that same video player where I have pretty extensive control on the sound settings and usually know what I'm doing with them.

 

[audiohobbit]

Ok, I was specifically not talking about computers... They seem to do weird things that normal players don't do normally ....

ManLoudHPEQ and the HPEQ ManSpkrs are NOT only acting on the EQ of the L,C and R channels, it is just that you only use the L, C and R channels to perform the manloud or manspeakers procedure. And the reason for that is that the front speakers are the most critical to get right.
So unfortunately, when you mix speakers from your own personal PRIRs with speakers from generic PRIRs you can do nothing to optimise both.
If you do this mix, best is to just use the HPEQ that works best for your own personal speakers (especially assuming you will use the L, R and C from your personal PRIR).

I expect it will not sound great at all, unless the non-personal PRIR sounds good to you due to a coincidental match with your personal HRTF, but you can try of course.

Exactly.
The only thing that could help here would be parametric EQs per channel, something that was "promised" in the beginning, but so far never happened.
No, not the only thing, the personalisation feature on the Exchange website (when it's up and running again) could help, but you need a PRIR with your own speakers at that angle where the speakers of the other PRIR are.

 

[sander99]

The only thing that could help here would be parametric EQs per channel

Than could help a little bit, but not much I fear because with the parametric EQ per input channel you can not EQ the two headphone output channels independently!
The only real solution is correcting the individual impulse responses in the PRIR: per lookangle, per ear (= per headphone output channel). Without a doubt the personalisation feature on the Exchange website will try to do this.

 

[Om ma Ni]

Than could help a little bit, but not much I fear because with the parametric EQ per input channel you can not EQ the two headphone output channels independently!
The only real solution is correcting the individual impulse responses in the PRIR: per lookangle, per ear (= per headphone output channel). Without a doubt the personalisation feature on the Exchange website will try to do this.

That s clear that we all need these functions or services to really be able to play around different PRIRs etc..As i am still struggling to find the best tricks and ways to perform a proper ManloudHPEQ..so hard to adjust to the same loudness with totally different freq..

 

[mrmac]

I haven’t extensively tested pass through in standby mode to be honest, but best I can tell it exists for IP control. You cannot power up the A16 via IP control if it is in its completely powered down state. I’ll test when I get home tonight, but I don’t expect pass through to work unless the A16 is in its powered on state.

Is there two different satandby modes? What do you mean by completely powered down? I’m using the a16 in its “on” bypass mode and would love some kind of pass through in standby mode. However it would limit input switching to just one I assume.

Have any of you guys got the IP control to work? Is there more control options within that?

 

[Got the Shakes]

Is there two different satandby modes? What do you mean by completely powered down? I’m using the a16 in its “on” bypass mode and would love some kind of pass through in standby mode. However it would limit input switching to just one I assume.

Have any of you guys got the IP control to work? Is there more control options within that?

Yes there are two different power down states if you are using IP control. I’ll to try to explain the best I can.

When using the A16 remote the power button does two things, power the unit on (light on front will be green) and powers it off (the light will be red). However, if you use IP control and press the power button in the Centro Control app one of two things happens. The A16 is powered on (the light on the front is green) or it gets put into “sleep” mode (the light on the front is a lighter green). This “sleep” mode doesn’t actually power the unit off, it puts it into a standby state that allows it to remain connectable to the IP control app. This seems to be a low power state that powers everything off except for the network card.

Speaking of IP control, it doesn’t allow extra functionality, in fact it has way less functionality than the physical remote. It is really great for being able to instantly switch inputs in the A16 without needing to back out of the speaker map to the main menu. I find myself frequently using it for that purpose. You can also view a live updating audio meter in your iPhone or iPad, see preset details on your drive, raise/lower volume, and instantly select any preset. That’s just using the layout for Centro that Smyth Research provides. In theory you could make you own interface and program other commands beyond that.

 

[mrmac]

Yes there are two different power down states if you are using IP control. I’ll to try to explain the best I can.

When using the A16 remote the power button does two things, power the unit on (light on front will be green) and powers it off (the light will be red). However, if you use IP control and press the power button in the Centro Control app one of two things happens. The A16 is powered on (the light on the front is green) or it gets put into “sleep” mode (the light on the front is a lighter green). This “sleep” mode doesn’t actually power the unit off, it puts it into a standby state that allows it to remain connectable to the IP control app. This seems to be a low power state that powers everything off except for the network card.

Speaking of IP control, it doesn’t allow extra functionality, in fact it has way less functionality than the physical remote. It is really great for being able to instantly switch inputs in the A16 without needing to back out of the speaker map to the main menu. I find myself frequently using it for that purpose. You can also view a live updating audio meter in your iPhone or iPad, see preset details on your drive, raise/lower volume, and instantly select any preset. That’s just using the layout for Centro that Smyth Research provides. In theory you could make you own interface and program other commands beyond that.

Thanks @Got the Shakes. Would be amazing if pass through could work in this soft standby state and maybe even input switching as well. There is some quotes from Stephen from way back eluding to that this would be possible.

Let us know when you have a chance to try it.

 

[audiohobbit]

Than could help a little bit, but not much I fear because with the parametric EQ per input channel you can not EQ the two headphone output channels independently!

You mean user A and B? That would depend on where the PEQ would be implemented. When in the listening room, which would make sense to me, then you could create 2 listening rooms from the same PRIRs but different PEQs per channel for user A and User B.
So this would work.
The big problem is that you had to make the corrections by ear. If one can measure the frequency response of the headphone output (which could be done relatively easy) one could set the PEQ filters also based on the measurement BUT you'd need a measurement of a correct sounding speaker in that spot for the specific ears.
So you could also record a PRIR with a simple speaker in the nearfield at that spot and take this for the personalisation tool on the Exchange website.
The problem is you have to do this for all speaker positions that you want to personalize, plus (I think) the head tracking angles!
Good luck with 20-something speakers...

 

[sander99]

You mean user A and B?

I did not even think about user A and B yet, I meant left and right headphone channel, in other words left and right ear.

plus (I think) the head tracking angles!

Yes, that is what I said.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Could it get any worse? Realiser was due yesterday. I have just received notification from UPS that they've begun a "lost package" investigation.

 

[Thomasphoenix98]

That's really unreal! I hope it's some mix-up..

 

[Got the Shakes]

Could it get any worse? Realiser was due yesterday. I have just received notification from UPS that they've begun a "lost package" investigation.

That’s terrible. Sorry to hear that. I will say that UPS has been a mess in my dealings with them during the pandemic. Fingers crossed for a speedy resolution which is hopefully they finding and delivering you A16.

 

[audiohobbit]

Could it get any worse? Realiser was due yesterday. I have just received notification from UPS that they've begun a "lost package" investigation.

Oh no!
I hope for you that they find it quickly and undamaged!!