Rockbox Xduoo X3
Nov 13, 2017 at 4:39 PM Post #1,968 of 2,617
Mine does not get super hot. The percentage showing on the rockbox screen might not be accurately reflecting the true state of the battery. Have you tried letting it completely discharge to where it shuts itself off and then recharge for a few hours? Don't just trust those numbers...

Also in the settings somewhere there is a place to choose which battery you have... XVortex said to just pick one and if it does not seem right then try the other... I think it's just to tell rockbox how to calibrate. You will not hurt anything by changing it.
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 4:49 PM Post #1,969 of 2,617
Nov 13, 2017 at 6:42 PM Post #1,970 of 2,617
Hi guys, I have a question about the battery. I bought last week an x3 from amazon germany to replace my sansa clip plus. I don't know which type of battery i have.I get only 3-4 hours out of it. The device gets warm during playing.It gets very hot during charging
I noticed that when i charge it for about 1 hour rockbox shows me 100% of load and than slowly goes down till it reaches 15 or 20%. Is this normal?`

I have the ORIGINAL model with 1500mah battery, and I get 8-10 hours on mine. They replaced it with an even larger 2000mah battery, which easily gives a solid 10+ hours of battery life.

So regardless of which battery you got, you should get way more than 3-4 hours. And it should not get very hot during charging. Maybe very slightly warm, but not hot in any way.

Sounds like you got a defective one my friend.
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 6:46 PM Post #1,971 of 2,617
Well I found the Zedlabz screen lens for 3 bucks w/ free shipping on ebay and ordered it. It's worth a shot I guess~

Awesome. Just follow my guide and you'll be using it in bright sunlight in no time!

A word of advice - to remove the stock screen cover, do NOT remove the circuit board. Use the razor blade prying method. Seriously. The SMD buttons and switches on the circuit board break off if you look at them funny. It's not worth the risk. Use the razor blade prying method and you will have no problems. You have been warned.

Oh, one more thing before I forget:
  • Use the razor blade prying method
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 8:16 PM Post #1,972 of 2,617
Mine does not get super hot. The percentage showing on the rockbox screen might not be accurately reflecting the true state of the battery. Have you tried letting it completely discharge to where it shuts itself off and then recharge for a few hours? Don't just trust those numbers...

Also in the settings somewhere there is a place to choose which battery you have... XVortex said to just pick one and if it does not seem right then try the other... I think it's just to tell rockbox how to calibrate. You will not hurt anything by changing it.

This is what I did. I discharged it and recharged it again. Now I seems to work better. I will report about it.
I know about this battery menu setting in RB. I read a bit of this long thread.

This community is amazing . 130 pages of discussion about this topic. The Russians are also very diligent, on 4PDA are 270 pages of discussion. The german hifi forum has only 3 pages. I don't have time to read this all, there is much of useful information, tips and how toos. It is worth to collect and to preserve it at one place. I hope Rockbox will have a future.

I have the ORIGINAL model with 1500mah battery, and I get 8-10 hours on mine. They replaced it with an even larger 2000mah battery, which easily gives a solid 10+ hours of battery life.

So regardless of which battery you got, you should get way more than 3-4 hours. And it should not get very hot during charging. Maybe very slightly warm, but not hot in any way.

Sounds like you got a defective one my friend.
I know about your 1500mah battery, you mentioned it early in the discussion .
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 10:47 PM Post #1,973 of 2,617
Awesome. Just follow my guide and you'll be using it in bright sunlight in no time!

A word of advice - to remove the stock screen cover, do NOT remove the circuit board. Use the razor blade prying method. Seriously. The SMD buttons and switches on the circuit board break off if you look at them funny. It's not worth the risk. Use the razor blade prying method and you will have no problems. You have been warned.

Oh, one more thing before I forget:
  • Use the razor blade prying method
Do you have any idea what type of screen fits X3? I found two of these on aliexpress.
1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc...lue-on-black-SPI-Parallel-and/1453089737.html
2. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc...lution-and-white-on-black-SPI/1436446293.html
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 11:00 PM Post #1,974 of 2,617

Not sure. But there is 1 HF member that replaced his actual OLED screen with a new one. Unless your screen is defective, I personally would not recommend it. I'll see if I can find the post for you though.

Can I ask why you are considering replacing your screen? It it's to make it brighter, there's no need. Even with a new screen, the plastic covering the stock OLED is very dark tinted plastic. Like a car with tinted windows, or dark tinted sunglasses. It is this dark plastic cover that will make ANY screen difficult to read. The dark plastic cover filters about 40-50% of light.

If you replace the dark tinted screen cover with a clear one, you will be able to see the stock OLED. It will be very bright.
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 11:18 PM Post #1,975 of 2,617
Not sure. But there is 1 HF member that replaced his actual OLED screen with a new one. Unless your screen is defective, I personally would not recommend it. I'll see if I can find the post for you though.

Can I ask why you are considering replacing your screen? It it's to make it brighter, there's no need. Even with a new screen, the plastic covering the stock OLED is very dark tinted plastic. Like a car with tinted windows, or dark tinted sunglasses. It is this dark plastic cover that will make ANY screen difficult to read. The dark plastic cover filters about 40-50% of light.

If you replace the dark tinted screen cover with a clear one, you will be able to see the stock OLED. It will be very bright.
The screen has died.
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 11:49 PM Post #1,976 of 2,617
The screen has died.

Sorry to hear that.

I tried to search, and can't find where I saw the person that replaced his OLED.

I would just make sure you get the exact same size screen, so the addresses of the pixel matrix is all the same. Otherwise, the screen will output jumbled garbage.

Get the correct voltage as the stock screen also.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
 
Nov 13, 2017 at 11:54 PM Post #1,977 of 2,617
Sorry to hear that.

I tried to search, and can't find where I saw the person that replaced his OLED.

I would just make sure you get the exact same size screen, so the addresses of the pixel matrix is all the same. Otherwise, the screen will output jumbled garbage.

Get the correct voltage as the stock screen also.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
This is why I linked those two screens...they are different and I can't find any info on X3's screen to match.
 
Nov 14, 2017 at 12:01 AM Post #1,978 of 2,617
This is why I linked those two screens...they are different and I can't find any info on X3's screen to match.

Have you carefully examined both sides of the stock screen to see if there are any model numbers, identifying marks, or any specifications that might be able to be decoded and/or googled?

They are at least cheap enough to buy both and try each of them. 1 of the 2 is bound to work.
 
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Nov 14, 2017 at 12:04 AM Post #1,979 of 2,617
Have you carefully examined both sides of the stock screen to see if there are any model numbers, identifying marks, or any specifications that might be able to be decoded and/or googled?

They are at least cheap enough to buy both and try each of them. 1 of the 2 is bound to work.
The screen is super glued. Haven't gathered courage to pry it.
 
Nov 14, 2017 at 12:09 AM Post #1,980 of 2,617
The screen is super glued. Haven't gathered courage to pry it.

Well, the screen is broke anyways, so you can't make it any worse haha.

Are you sure it's super glue, or could it just be double sided tape? Could also be heat glue (that could be loosened with hair dryer or heat gun (on low heat).

Did you check for obvious problems, like a cold solder joint, torn or damaged ribbon cable, bad SMD component etc? It may not be the screen at all, but rather something on the circuit board that drives the screen.
 
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