Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Apr 30, 2008 at 6:18 AM Post #2,611 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by prospero21 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hey all,

first of all I'd like to thank you guys for the _hours_ of reading pleasure this topic gave me.

I have recently obtained a Sennheiser HD-580 and an AKG K-340 and I'm thoroughly enjoying them, but I always thought something was missing. When I heard the Senn and the AKG through a dedicated headamp I knew... These cans really shine when they are properly amped! So I went on a "quest" to find a good, yet affordable headamp and this lead me here...

So I ordered a Zero from Lawrence on Ebay and while im still waiting for the unit to be delivered, but so far I'm very pleased with the way Lawrence handles his sales.

Based on some suggestions in this thread, I decided to buy an opamp upgrade right away, in the form of 2x OPA627AU (the SOIC version which is soldered to the module on both sides, this way its supposed to fit in the headamp) on a brown-dog module for the DAC and the headamp as well. I'm also ordering some of the other suggestions you guys came up with and I'm ready for the opamp-rolling adventure to start :p

Seriously, this is my first time doing just that, but there's a first time for everything, right ?

For now, I have nothing further to add but the fact that I'm anxiously awaiting the arrival of the Zero and shipping from China to the Netherlands takes WAY to long
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Thanks again guys and I'll be sure to post my findings as soon as the unit arrives. Take care
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From what I've read, AKG K-340 seem to be one of the most demanding phones there is. I really doubt that the Zero amp can do them any kind of justice.
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 11:05 AM Post #2,612 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Henmyr /img/forum/go_quote.gif
From what I've read, AKG K-340 seem to be one of the most demanding phones there is. I really doubt that the Zero amp can do them any kind of justice.


I think you are right. The main reason I bought the Zero is to have a clean audio-source and ofcourse to amp the Sennheiser. I will wait and see how the AKG performs...
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 12:24 PM Post #2,613 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by prospero21 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I think you are right. The main reason I bought the Zero is to have a clean audio-source and ofcourse to amp the Sennheiser. I will wait and see how the AKG performs...


Still sounds like a workable upgrade path though. If the AKG's require a separate amp, you could use the Zero's amp for the Senn's, until you purchase the separate amp and drive it with the Zero's DAC output. What is the story with those AKG's anyway? Are they 600Ohm or something?
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Apr 30, 2008 at 12:28 PM Post #2,614 of 9,388
more than 600ohm?

Anyway just got the LT1361's and LT1364's. Currently I have the standard opamp in the DAC, and installed the 1364's in the amp section. I read it was better to have 1364 in DAC and 1361's in AMP, but that it gives heat issues? Abit afraid to try because I destroyed my opamp the first day I got the Zero, so this is my first listen to the Zero amp, and I'm loving it
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! Its got loads of power, and the sound has really improved over my Denon AVR-Receiver headphone out.
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 2:40 PM Post #2,615 of 9,388
ow an Penchum, you mention the 'tube kind of sound' in the standard configuration of the zero. I would like to know if that is the DAC opamp or the AMP opamps that is causing that. I want to improve the sound, but not at the cost of the 'tube' sound.
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 3:00 PM Post #2,616 of 9,388
I am having a problem with my Zero periodically, and seemingly randomly, shutting itself off. This is preceded by a low static "whoosh" sound. It has
happened when I am using the headphone amp and when I am just using the DAC. I can turn it back on and it works fine but it is a little disconcerting.

Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 4:17 PM Post #2,617 of 9,388
Have you changed any opamps? Maybe try the standard opamps and see if it does the same?
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 5:54 PM Post #2,618 of 9,388
Well it seems the static popping I was hearing was caused by my X-Fi card. I switched to the realtek and no more popping.
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Stupid X-Fi
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.

Now the only concern I have is that the realtek only works at 96KHz. I when I use the 192KHz setting I don't get any sound. Can anyone else get 192KHz out of their realtek?
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 6:12 PM Post #2,619 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by vvanrij /img/forum/go_quote.gif
ow an Penchum, you mention the 'tube kind of sound' in the standard configuration of the zero. I would like to know if that is the DAC opamp or the AMP opamps that is causing that. I want to improve the sound, but not at the cost of the 'tube' sound.


Well, I believe the "tube like" sound was mostly the OPA2604 in the DAC. One of the upgrade DAC Opamps, the two OPA627's on the adapter in the DAC, have a "tube like" warmth to them as well, so if you decided to use them, I don't think you would be loosing anything. One thing I would make sure of first, is that the Zero is totally matured with at least 100 hours of play time. This will give you a maximized perspective on the default sound, so changes will stand out easier.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 6:14 PM Post #2,620 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am having a problem with my Zero periodically, and seemingly randomly, shutting itself off. This is preceded by a low static "whoosh" sound. It has
happened when I am using the headphone amp and when I am just using the DAC. I can turn it back on and it works fine but it is a little disconcerting.

Has anyone else experienced this?



The only time this happened to me, was when I was passing static electricity through the headphone cord, and didn't know I was.
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Apr 30, 2008 at 7:39 PM Post #2,621 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It was recommended to put a stick on cooler to the LT1364, if installed in the DAC position. Most are using the OPA627's on the adapter in this position. I haven't found a "cheap" source for the stick on coolers yet. Anyone find a cheap source??


These sound like they would be perfect if they where in stock.

Newegg.com - Thermaltake A1933 Aluminum Heatsinks only - Memory & Chipset Cooling

What about these. They are probably too big, but they are not very high. I might buy two and try to cut one of them in half or quarters.

eBay Express: Northbridge/VGA Passive HEATSINK Stick-On 1.5" NEW - Description
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 7:50 PM Post #2,622 of 9,388
Hey guys!

Hehe I don't know if anyone remember me anymore, I was posting a few times some 100 pages back, somewhere around november/december 2007 I was looking for a headamp and chose the Zero. I even chose some custom opamps, don't remember which anymore. I recieved it in mid-february and was ready to hook it up for my X-Fi via optical... but then I found out that I needed a toslink cable with a square plug in the one end for the Zero but a round one in the other for the soundcard. D'oh. I was trying to pull myself together but didn't get the cable until today. Silly I know
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Just got it playing! However I have a question. The sound level is REALLY low when I plug and play. However if I turn on "Preamp" the sound is all there loud as it should be. But I thought Preamp mode should only be used in conjunction with another amplifier, which I don't have? I don't get it
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Apr 30, 2008 at 7:55 PM Post #2,623 of 9,388
But the sound is really good!! I'm just sitting here being one big smile listening to the tunes of Guns n' Roses and Genesis in lossless FLAC on with my HD600's
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Definently an improvement from before, no placebo involved. Especially noticable at higher volumes. So crystal clear, defined and, you if want, god damn loud with little to no distortion!

But I still need answer to the preamp thing and I also need to figure out how to make the sound go directly through without being accessed by windows software. I've heard this mode can be confirmed if you can't control the volume via windows in any way but only on the knob on the headamp
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Apr 30, 2008 at 8:19 PM Post #2,624 of 9,388
The pre-amp button does two things.

If you have a headphone plugged into the Zero's headphone jack, press the pre-amp button, the green light comes on, you are in headphone amp mode. The volume knob varies the headphone amp output.

If you don't have headphones plugged into the Zero, a constant line-out level is sent to the DAC output jacks in the back (for going to another amplifier). If you then press the Pre-amp button, green light on, the volume knob will vary the output going to the jacks in the back, making it work like a true pre-amp for a separate amp.
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 8:25 PM Post #2,625 of 9,388
Well beneath the light it sis Pre-Amp, but above the light it sais Phone. Either way, the light has to be burning for the amp section to work (and thus the volume knop).

edit: haha Penchum you beat me to it!
 

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