Post pics of your builds....
Jul 30, 2011 at 8:21 PM Post #8,131 of 9,811


Quote:
user TestSubject would probably be interested in seeing your protoboard layout...
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/561994/sripboard-design-starving-student-millett-hybrid-vacum-tube-amp
 



ive been keeping up with testsubjects progress and i think he/she is pretty dead set on designing the layout. 
 
right now my tubes are kind of just floating in the holes because i forgot to order socket mounting brackets. but i have some in the mail and once there installed it should look better.
 
Aug 7, 2011 at 7:24 AM Post #8,132 of 9,811
Voltage Indicator for my Cmoy.
 Still not that accurate, but at least it work.

Two LEDs, Red and Blue (I should use Green) will light up with a new battery.
When the battery start to dropping, the blue LED will dimmer and off. When the battery voltage is more lower, the Red LED will dimmer and eventualy off, a sign for a new fresh battery replacement.
 
Aug 7, 2011 at 10:30 AM Post #8,134 of 9,811
Maybe you should try this one...
 
Quote:
Voltage Indicator for my Cmoy.
 Still not that accurate, but at least it work.

Two LEDs, Red and Blue (I should use Green) will light up with a new battery.
When the battery start to dropping, the blue LED will dimmer and off. When the battery voltage is more lower, the Red LED will dimmer and eventualy off, a sign for a new fresh battery replacement.



 
 
Aug 7, 2011 at 1:58 PM Post #8,135 of 9,811

Quote:
Two LED's for a voltage indicator? Why not just one? If battery life is important stick with a single LED, IMO. Now you have two LED's eating away at the available battery capacity...

My main goal at first is to get simple sign if the battery is already too low for powering the amp. The LEDs already dimmer even with a new battery because I use higher resistor value. :D
 
Actually I want to use RGB LED, but I still can't figure it out how to turn on the LED one by one based on the battery voltage level. Blue willl light up when using DC power jack, Green will light up when the battery is full, and then RED will light up when the battery is low.
 
Quote:
Maybe you should try this one...
 


 


Oh thanks! I'll try :)
 
 
Aug 8, 2011 at 4:39 PM Post #8,138 of 9,811
amazing job! i love the jonokuchi! first class stuff
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Aug 13, 2011 at 4:08 PM Post #8,139 of 9,811
 
I made a small headphone amp, its using LME49990 OPAMP's, but even with 1Ghz+ current feedback opamps it stable and working perfectly.
Its not in a nice case at the moment, but it sounds nice so i'm going to make something for it :)
 

 
Aug 20, 2011 at 5:24 PM Post #8,140 of 9,811
My first amp.
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Yet another Beta 22.
 

 
The wiring took me much longer that I thought to complete. If you wonder what's with those wiring, the inner left rotary switch is the usual input selector. The left most rotary switch is a bypass output selector, so this box also can serve as a input switch box for other headphone amp or preamp, eliminating the need for RCA splitter when using the same sources for multiple headphone amp / preamp. The right rotary switch is the line level output selector, it chooses to output from the internal amp boards or from other preamp/receiver. So this is also an input switch box for the power amp.
 

 
Completed main enclosure.
 

 
Transformer enclosure. I added a fuse holder after the photo. If you notice there are extra holes, switch and space. Those are for my planned second amp, the SOHA II. This enclosure also serves as a mains filter for my sources, hence the IEC outlet (will be shown in later photo).
 

 
Back of the enclosures. You might not see it from this angle, but the alignment of the RCA jacks is atrocious, I haven't handled a drill in a while. I also cheated and used a male cable mounted speakon as the transformer inlet. I don't have any means to cut a square hole. This is where it showed that I am new at this.
biggrin.gif

 

 
In the stack. The LED indicator behind the volume knob is much dimmer in person. I shouldn't have used diffused LEDs. the colour of the LED also doesn't match with the rest of the LED (440 vs 460 nm). Fortunately it looks decent enough from the front without any major flaw, considering my relative ineptitude in case work.
 

 
The transformer enclosure, with the non-functioning (yet) switch at the right.
 

 
The stacks. A new DAC (Rega DAC) is coming in, to be placed on top of the right stack. The upcoming SOHA II will be on top of the left stack. The SOHA II will use an enclosure having identical foot print and look to the power supply enclosure, but taller. I got the details all planned.
biggrin.gif
I actually got the enclosure, knobs and switches ahead of the innards.
 

 
Another angle. I also built the wooden spacers for heat dissipation on top of the Beta 22 and the speaker power amp. They can get a little warm. The Beta 22, and the upcoming SOHA II will be used mostly as preamp for my speaker setup. I only listen to headphones when it is late at night these days.
 

 
Thanks for looking.
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Aug 20, 2011 at 6:56 PM Post #8,142 of 9,811


Quote:
A neat trick: Use a D-mount Speakon/Powercon jack. That way you only need to drill a hole for the jack portion as the rectangular plate sits on the outside.



great advice! 
 
Aug 21, 2011 at 12:01 AM Post #8,143 of 9,811
How does this D-mount look like? Different from the panel mount I guess?
 
Actually the panel mount does not require a square hole, but it requires a pretty large round hole, larger than all the drill bits I have. May be I should get a larger stepped drill.
 
Aug 21, 2011 at 12:10 AM Post #8,144 of 9,811
No, if you are referring to the Speakon/Powercon panel mount, then we are talking about the same thing. D-size chassis mount is the standard name for this type of connector, yes, they do require a large bit, I believe Irwin makes one big enough, maybe a number 3?
 

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