sedan delivery
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Very nice,indeed.
Post pics of your builds....
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linuxworks
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here is the actual volume control engine, the PGA2320 (surface mount, 12v version). ERROR401 made these boards and I bought one from him along with a chip. I had to do the soldering
I adapted his board so that my arduino could control it, bypassing his PIC chip.
I didn't provide a dual 12v to this chip for its analog section (I might, later) but for now I took a regulated 10v and split it with that TLE rail splitter chip (3 terminal chip that has heat shrink tubing on 2 of its 'crossed over' leads). that gives me a nice virtual ground for the analog section. the digital section is driven by its own private 5v coming in to the white angled 2-connector molex on the corner of the board.
the ribbon cable with 3 wires are the 3 lines you need to digitally talk to this chip (clock, data and 'chip select'). basically, you bring the chip-select down to say 'hi, I want to talk to you' and then you send 'byte byte' down the serial 'data' wire, alternating clock every pulse, and when 16 bits (2 channels of 8bit each) are received, on the 16 bit the volume change occurs for both channels. just like magic. once you are done, you release chip-select to say 'bye' and the volume control engine keeps that level until told other wise.
I didn't have surface mount caps (for the bottom of the board) so I trimmed some small .1uF's and 'made' them surface mount
there was a trace short (I think) near one of them and I had to take a knife to the board. I did teach that board a lesson but it wasn't without a fight
the 2 red foil shielded cables are the line-in and line-out (pretty obvious).
other than the short from b+ to ground (doh!) things went as planned. oh, and you DO have to connect the 'not MUTE' wire to plus (not let it float) or your circuit will power up in mute and not get OUT of mute. that's the 'blue bridge wire' that you see going to the far corner on something called pin-1. that is the hardware mute 'disable' and muting now happens when I send a string of 0's to the device (16 of them) to set the vol level to zero.
I adapted his board so that my arduino could control it, bypassing his PIC chip.
I didn't provide a dual 12v to this chip for its analog section (I might, later) but for now I took a regulated 10v and split it with that TLE rail splitter chip (3 terminal chip that has heat shrink tubing on 2 of its 'crossed over' leads). that gives me a nice virtual ground for the analog section. the digital section is driven by its own private 5v coming in to the white angled 2-connector molex on the corner of the board.
the ribbon cable with 3 wires are the 3 lines you need to digitally talk to this chip (clock, data and 'chip select'). basically, you bring the chip-select down to say 'hi, I want to talk to you' and then you send 'byte byte' down the serial 'data' wire, alternating clock every pulse, and when 16 bits (2 channels of 8bit each) are received, on the 16 bit the volume change occurs for both channels. just like magic. once you are done, you release chip-select to say 'bye' and the volume control engine keeps that level until told other wise.
I didn't have surface mount caps (for the bottom of the board) so I trimmed some small .1uF's and 'made' them surface mount
the 2 red foil shielded cables are the line-in and line-out (pretty obvious).
other than the short from b+ to ground (doh!) things went as planned. oh, and you DO have to connect the 'not MUTE' wire to plus (not let it float) or your circuit will power up in mute and not get OUT of mute. that's the 'blue bridge wire' that you see going to the far corner on something called pin-1. that is the hardware mute 'disable' and muting now happens when I send a string of 0's to the device (16 of them) to set the vol level to zero.
Llama16
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WOW!!! I feel so humble when looking at all these homemade amps. I hope to one day be able to get the parts together to build myself one hell of a nice amp and have the right to post here
.
Well currently I'm building 2 cmoy's at once. As this is the first time I ever came in contact with soldering and handling electronics on this level please excuse me of my o so sloppy work, I'm really just getting into this.
I made the one from tangentsoft, justa cmoy to be able to run my HD650's of my ipod for now, later on I will build some more dedicated ones as soon as I finish this cmoy with succes.
On the left is the practice one, and on the right I am trying to clean it all up. I'm still waiting for my opamp and input jacks:
On the back thee practice one is even more sloppy (I still need to make the connections on the clean one, so I'll only upload the practice amp)... don't freak out!!:
I still don't have a clue how to connect these:
As I already said: this is my evry first contact with soldering, electronics, ....
I hope to learn alot more this easternholiday because I've already got big plans...I hope to sell some later on, make some small profit, and buy parts for a PIMETA.
Great job to all of you, I am astonished and hope to be able to know as much as you all do one day.
Well currently I'm building 2 cmoy's at once. As this is the first time I ever came in contact with soldering and handling electronics on this level please excuse me of my o so sloppy work, I'm really just getting into this.
I made the one from tangentsoft, justa cmoy to be able to run my HD650's of my ipod for now, later on I will build some more dedicated ones as soon as I finish this cmoy with succes.
On the left is the practice one, and on the right I am trying to clean it all up. I'm still waiting for my opamp and input jacks:
On the back thee practice one is even more sloppy (I still need to make the connections on the clean one, so I'll only upload the practice amp)... don't freak out!!:
I still don't have a clue how to connect these:
As I already said: this is my evry first contact with soldering, electronics, ....
I hope to learn alot more this easternholiday because I've already got big plans...I hope to sell some later on, make some small profit, and buy parts for a PIMETA.
Great job to all of you, I am astonished and hope to be able to know as much as you all do one day.
Tridacnid
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The switch looks like it can flip between two sets of inputs, which is a little bit more than you need simply for power, but it will work. Unless you're building a multiple input CMOY.
If you just want to do power, connect the wire from on of your battery leads to the center row (you chose which side), then attach another wire running to the CMOY on either the top or the bottom row, in the same column as the other wire. That way, it will leave an open connection when it's flipped one way, and will close the connection when it's flipped the other way. I hope that made sense.
If you just want to do power, connect the wire from on of your battery leads to the center row (you chose which side), then attach another wire running to the CMOY on either the top or the bottom row, in the same column as the other wire. That way, it will leave an open connection when it's flipped one way, and will close the connection when it's flipped the other way. I hope that made sense.
Llama16
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yep that made alot of sense, so I'll just leave the second row untouched.
yep I understand the logics behind it... the second row just confused me
yep I understand the logics behind it... the second row just confused me
![DaKi][er](https://cdn.head-fi.org/avatars/m/6/6700.jpg?1273083357){kind=avatar}
DaKi][er
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Quote:
| Originally Posted by Llama16 /img/forum/go_quote.gif WOW!!! I feel so humble when looking at all these homemade amps. I hope to one day be able to get the parts together to build myself one hell of a nice amp and have the right to post here
Well currently I'm building 2 cmoy's at once. As this is the first time I ever came in contact with soldering and handling electronics on this level please excuse me of my o so sloppy work, I'm really just getting into this. I made the one from tangentsoft, justa cmoy to be able to run my HD650's of my ipod for now, later on I will build some more dedicated ones as soon as I finish this cmoy with succes. On the left is the practice one, and on the right I am trying to clean it all up. I'm still waiting for my opamp and input jacks: http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5412/1013238.jpg[IMG] On the back thee practice one is even more sloppy (I still need to make the connections on the clean one, so I'll only upload the practice amp)... don't freak out!!: [IMG]http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/861/1013243.jpg[IMG] I still don't have a clue how to connect these: [IMG]http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/853/1013245m.jpg[IMG] As I already said: this is my evry first contact with soldering, electronics, .... I hope to learn alot more this easternholiday because I've already got big plans...I hope to sell some later on, make some small profit, and buy parts for a PIMETA. Great job to all of you, I am astonished and hope to be able to know as much as you all do one day.[/i] [/td] [/tr] [/table] What you are doing here is absolutely great work, you are already ahead of a lot of people on here. Keep using those protoboards, you'll learn a lot with them |
elliot42
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Here's my Jaycar headphone amp that I finished about a week ago. It's all stock at the moment but I plan to put in a number of upgrades. I have a stepped attenuator on the way already
Laika
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My first post and my first Cmoy build
Pretty much a stock cmoy build, power caps are 470uf and the sockets are for the optional output resistors. Since the pics were taken I have socketed the gain resistors (now @ 6x) and after some reading I may increase the value of the input caps for better bass handling. It turned out better than I had hoped
Pretty much a stock cmoy build, power caps are 470uf and the sockets are for the optional output resistors. Since the pics were taken I have socketed the gain resistors (now @ 6x) and after some reading I may increase the value of the input caps for better bass handling. It turned out better than I had hoped
Forte
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Quote:
Great work, can already see the improvement from the practice build, Keep at it.
| Originally Posted by Llama16 /img/forum/go_quote.gif WOW!!! I feel so humble when looking at all these homemade amps. I hope to one day be able to get the parts together to build myself one hell of a nice amp and have the right to post here. Well currently I'm building 2 cmoy's at once. As this is the first time I ever came in contact with soldering and handling electronics on this level please excuse me of my o so sloppy work, I'm really just getting into this. |
Great work, can already see the improvement from the practice build, Keep at it.
Fred_fred2004
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Quote:
Very nice job, and for a first build staggeringly good, well done
cheers
Fred
| Originally Posted by Laika /img/forum/go_quote.gif My first post and my first Cmoy build
Pretty much a stock cmoy build, power caps are 470uf and the sockets are for the optional output resistors. Since the pics were taken I have socketed the gain resistors (now @ 6x) and after some reading I may increase the value of the input caps for better bass handling. It turned out better than I had hoped
|
Very nice job, and for a first build staggeringly good, well done
cheers
Fred
Forte
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Quote:
Wow! Great layout and attention to detail, especially the wiring of the jacks, pot and switch.
Great photography too.
| Originally Posted by Laika /img/forum/go_quote.gif My first post and my first Cmoy build
Pretty much a stock cmoy build, power caps are 470uf and the sockets are for the optional output resistors. |
Wow! Great layout and attention to detail, especially the wiring of the jacks, pot and switch.
Great photography too.
linuxworks
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adding a new feature to my VoluMaster volume control.
it now has a notion of a min and max 'allowable' volume level. here's the setup screen for it:
you go into this mode with a keypress of the IR remote. it then throws you into this 'editor' where you can use 4 buttons to move the lower ('mute') and upper (max) levels around. these are like safety 'stops' that won't let you exceed the ranges. you exit this mode with a 'return' IR button. as you move the 2 'stops' around, the vertical bars move bit by bit to show the result, graphically. both 'stops' move independently.
then it goes back to the main screen. here are 2 screens showing what happens when you run into the limits that I just set:
and if you are in the middle of some setting, such as:
and you hit the MUTE button, it slowly fades down to the lower volume 'stop' setting which is your mute setting you just defined:
this is becoming useful to me, now
I can change, at any time, the min and max and I can create a 'commercial mute' so that I can still hear the TV over a commercial but not enough to actually *hear* the commercial (lol). similarly, if I'm listening late at nite or early in the AM, I might want to set a max volume level. or, another use-case is where you switch outputs from a speaker amp to a phones amp and they have different sensitivities. you will want to have a different 'stop point' in turning up the volume on amps with different gains.
another use-case is for when people 'object' to the volume control chip running in gain-mode (more than 0db). some circuits have a pin where you can limit the gain to stop at zero. I was about to do something like that but then decided this 'window' approach is more flexible and general.
the scale on the setup screen runs the full limits of the native device (0..255, in 1db steps = 0..127). the 0db point is about at 96 and so if you go above that, the display changes from a leading minus sign to a space (implied plus sign). if you WANT to use the full range of the device, you can.
it now has a notion of a min and max 'allowable' volume level. here's the setup screen for it:
you go into this mode with a keypress of the IR remote. it then throws you into this 'editor' where you can use 4 buttons to move the lower ('mute') and upper (max) levels around. these are like safety 'stops' that won't let you exceed the ranges. you exit this mode with a 'return' IR button. as you move the 2 'stops' around, the vertical bars move bit by bit to show the result, graphically. both 'stops' move independently.
then it goes back to the main screen. here are 2 screens showing what happens when you run into the limits that I just set:
and if you are in the middle of some setting, such as:
and you hit the MUTE button, it slowly fades down to the lower volume 'stop' setting which is your mute setting you just defined:
this is becoming useful to me, now
another use-case is for when people 'object' to the volume control chip running in gain-mode (more than 0db). some circuits have a pin where you can limit the gain to stop at zero. I was about to do something like that but then decided this 'window' approach is more flexible and general.
the scale on the setup screen runs the full limits of the native device (0..255, in 1db steps = 0..127). the 0db point is about at 96 and so if you go above that, the display changes from a leading minus sign to a space (implied plus sign). if you WANT to use the full range of the device, you can.
Laika
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Thanks Fred and Forte, I've built a couple of guitar effects before so I'm getting better at keeping things tidy.
zkool448
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Quote:
Laika, welcome
Very pristine! I couldn't believe at first that this is your first build, it all makes sense now that you've explained it
zk
| Originally Posted by Laika /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks Fred and Forte, I've built a couple of guitar effects before so I'm getting better at keeping things tidy. |
Laika, welcome
Very pristine! I couldn't believe at first that this is your first build, it all makes sense now that you've explained it
zk
Llama16
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Thanks
As soon as I get the opamps, I can test them out. If (hopefully 'when') one of them works, I'll see if I can change the layout a bit to save space, and also replace components with better ones (maybe I can already optimise it for my HD650, but for that I do not really know where to start).
I'll keep you all posted if they work.
I'm pretty impatient so i already can't wait until I can start on my first PIMETA....while I didn't even test these out hehe
| Originally Posted by DaKi][er /img/forum/go_quote.gif What you are doing here is absolutely great work, you are already ahead of a lot of people on here. Keep using those protoboards, you'll learn a lot with them |
Thanks
As soon as I get the opamps, I can test them out. If (hopefully 'when') one of them works, I'll see if I can change the layout a bit to save space, and also replace components with better ones (maybe I can already optimise it for my HD650, but for that I do not really know where to start).
I'll keep you all posted if they work.
I'm pretty impatient so i already can't wait until I can start on my first PIMETA....while I didn't even test these out hehe
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