[gPope]

That another option to think about... Dam you....8^)

LOL!  Not a must but my A5's are too close to the wall and sounded boomy.  Cutting out the low frequencies below 100 Hz made a huge difference.  Of course, didn't hurt to gain that tight bass from the S8 either... 

 

[yogibeezwax]

Was thinking of using the trigger output for a fan (moved my HA-1 into a media cabinet and there is not a lot of clearance for the vent). Anyone have any experience of tips for connecting a PC case fan to a 3.5mm stereo cable? I know that the trigger output supports a maximum of 100mA so a fan with amp specs lower than 0.1A should be OK, right?

 

[AudioMan2013]

Was thinking of using the trigger output for a fan (moved my HA-1 into a media cabinet and there is not a lot of clearance for the vent). Anyone have any experience of tips for connecting a PC case fan to a 3.5mm stereo cable? I know that the trigger output supports a maximum of 100mA so a fan with amp specs lower than 0.1A should be OK, right?

No need for a fan.  The HA-1 is designed to get hot and most likely operates its best at temperature.  Unless there are failures of the HA-1 due to excessive heat, I wouldn't worry about adding a fan for cooling.  Has anyone heard of one failing due to heat?
 
To add further, adding a fan can introduce electrical noise and no matter how quiet it is rated at or the kind of bearings it has will add audible noise.  It will also introduce much more dust into the HA-1 over time.  If you feel that you do need to cool your unit, the best way would be to lower the ambient temperature of your room.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Was thinking of using the trigger output for a fan (moved my HA-1 into a media cabinet and there is not a lot of clearance for the vent). Anyone have any experience of tips for connecting a PC case fan to a 3.5mm stereo cable? I know that the trigger output supports a maximum of 100mA so a fan with amp specs lower than 0.1A should be OK, right?

The manual says "We recommend leaving 4 in (10 cm) of free space at the top, the sides, and the rear. " If you can do that and the media cabinet itself has decent ventilation, you should be fine. If you can't get that space, well a low noise fan might be a good idea.
 
You might consider:
http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009COQYA0
http://www.acinfinity.com/quiet-cabinet-fans/
 
Trigger controlled!
http://www.amazon.com/Mega-fan-12-volt-trigger-controlled-AV-Cabinet/dp/B00XH0YJDO
http://www.amazon.com/AV-Cabinet-Controlled-Cooling-Multi-speed/dp/B00V2DRETY
 
Some DIY projects:
http://www.howtogeek.com/74654/how-to-automatically-cool-your-entertainment-center-when-it-gets-too-hot/
http://www.cnet.com/how-to/diy-install-a-cooling-fan-in-your-media-cabinet/
 
 
Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

 

[yogibeezwax]

No need for a fan.  The HA-1 is designed to get hot and most likely operates its best at temperature.  Unless there are failures of the HA-1 due to excessive heat, I wouldn't worry about adding a fan for cooling.  Has anyone heard of one failing due to heat?

To add further, adding a fan can introduce electrical noise and no matter how quiet it is rated at or the kind of bearings it has will add audible noise.  It will also introduce much more dust into the HA-1 over time.  If you feel that you do need to cool your unit, the best way would be to lower the ambient temperature of your room.

Thanks for the reply...well, lowering the ambient temperature won't to much good seeing how it's in a closed cabinet and I wasn't planning on blowing air into the cabinet..just vent warm air out. The reason I ask is because I've already had on HA-1 fail on me (granted, can't be sure that it was related to high temperatures) and I just want to make sure that it's not getting damaged because of above operating temperatures. But thanks for your input. Was curious to connect a fan to the trigger port and run it at 5v with a simple fan controller the fan would probably be spinning ideally at 200-300 rpm so I can't see how that would contribute to any noticeable noice.

 

[AudioMan2013]

Thanks for the reply...well, lowering the ambient temperature won't to much good seeing how it's in a closed cabinet and I wasn't planning on blowing air into the cabinet..just vent warm air out. The reason I ask is because I've already had on HA-1 fail on me (granted, can't be sure that it was related to high temperatures) and I just want to make sure that it's not getting damaged because of above operating temperatures. But thanks for your input. Was curious to connect a fan to the trigger port and run it at 5v with a simple fan controller the fan would probably be spinning ideally at 200-300 rpm so I can't see how that would contribute to any noticeable noice.

Sorry that you had a HA-1 fail on you.  What happened if I may ask?
 
The air that you blow out has to come from some place so it will bring in more dust.  If your cabinet is getting that warm and you have other electronics in it, you may want to consider a long term and proper solution.  Replacing the cabinet with an open AV rack would be the best but I know that is not always easily done.  If you do have to go for the fan approach, using a larger 12V computer case cooling fan, such as 200mm one at low rpms and power it by an inexpensive dc wall adapter.  Use a fan controller so that you can lower the speed and just leave it on all the time.  They will generate lower noise.  The smaller fans have to spin at a higher rpm to have any decent airflow and are louder.  Heat rises so place the fan somewhere on the top blowing out.  I like the thermal fan controller method that Allanmarcus posted.

 

[Badas]

I've come across a weird thing with the HA-1. I don't know if it has been discussed here as I left the forum for a long time. I own the Audeze LCD-X and LCD-3 and when I first power up the HA-1 and plug the X in I get a low level hum in the background. Kinda low level buzz. The LCD-3 is 100% quiet.
After about an hour of using the HA-1 and LCD-X it goes away. 100% quiet. As something gets hot it settles down. Anyone else come across this?

I'm now feeding the HA-1 music from Auralic Vega DAC. Just using the amp from the HA-1. The result is glorious.

 

[yogibeezwax]

Sorry that you had a HA-1 fail on you.  What happened if I may ask?

The air that you blow out has to come from some place so it will bring in more dust.  If your cabinet is getting that warm and you have other electronics in it, you may want to consider a long term and proper solution.  Replacing the cabinet with an open AV rack would be the best but I know that is not always easily done.  If you do have to go for the fan approach, using a larger 12V computer case cooling fan, such as 200mm one at low rpms and power it by an inexpensive dc wall adapter.  Use a fan controller so that you can lower the speed and just leave it on all the time.  They will generate lower noise.  The smaller fans have to spin at a higher rpm to have any decent airflow and are louder.  Heat rises so place the fan somewhere on the top blowing out.  I like the thermal fan controller method that Allanmarcus posted.

Well the issue I had with my first unit had to do with unbalance between left & right channel. Left channel would start with half the volume and after 30min it would balance out with the right... Also the potentiometer for the volume knob malfunctioned (had a life of its own when changing volume). I was thinking of sawing a couple of vent holes with dust filters on the bottom to let air in....I'll have to think hard on this..sure a open rack would be preferable...but I have a couple of electronics that are fairly noisy to begin with.

 

[Middy]

I opened up my OPPO last weekend the only dust in there had fallen in. Just a small amount on the display flexi.
Sept 2014...

 

[AudioMan2013]

Well the issue I had with my first unit had to do with unbalance between left & right channel. Left channel would start with half the volume and after 30min it would balance out with the right... Also the potentiometer for the volume knob malfunctioned (had a life of its own when changing volume). I was thinking of sawing a couple of vent holes with dust filters on the bottom to let air in....I'll have to think hard on this..sure a open rack would be preferable...but I have a couple of electronics that are fairly noisy to begin with.

My volume control using the remote was always slow to react but the smartphone app works great.  
 
I have been in a similar situation.  One thing that helps is thinking about your long term goals.  Mine was to replace non-audiophile grade equipment with some mid to high level components and things like going from all in one AV receiver to separates.  I started searching for a heavy duty AV rack/shelf but I didn't find anything good for under $500.  I then just decided to build my own and now it has about 250lbs of equipment on it, is open on all sides, and has casters.  

 

[Allanmarcus]

 

Well the issue I had with my first unit had to do with unbalance between left & right channel. Left channel would start with half the volume and after 30min it would balance out with the right... Also the potentiometer for the volume knob malfunctioned (had a life of its own when changing volume). I was thinking of sawing a couple of vent holes with dust filters on the bottom to let air in....I'll have to think hard on this..sure a open rack would be preferable...but I have a couple of electronics that are fairly noisy to begin with.

My volume control using the remote was always slow to react but the smartphone app works great.  
 
I have been in a similar situation.  One thing that helps is thinking about your long term goals.  Mine was to replace non-audiophile grade equipment with some mid to high level components and things like going from all in one AV receiver to separates.  I started searching for a heavy duty AV rack/shelf but I didn't find anything good for under $500.  I then just decided to build my own and now it has about 250lbs of equipment on it, is open on all sides, and has casters.  

 
 
I love statements like this from Audio Federation:

Note that equipment racks affect the sound of your components, by transferring structure-borne and air-borne vibrations to the components in different ways, and many of these ways are detrimental to the sound the equipment produces. Muddiness [lack of clarity] and the in-ability to generate tight bass [bass overhang and untamable bass] are a few among many other often-seen negative affects of vibrations on the sound of your gear.

Sure, I see it making a difference for Tubes and Turntables, but for SS equipment? I don't buy it.
 
That said, I was noticing the nice feet on my HA-1. I also notice that as I bang on my keyboard, I can hear it in the sound from my BottleHead Crack, but I cannot hear anything when I thump directly on my HA-1 one while listing to it. Heck, Oppo doesn't even advertise the feet and "vibration control" as a feature. Either they are missing out, or there is nothing to it. I've even seen special "platforms" for computers used as servers for music. Somehow the vibration in the server will affect the music you are playing over ethernet in another room, even if you are using an SSD. Sheesh. (whoa, one company that makes that crap is in my office building! Atomic Audio Labs!)
 
Note: I'm in the process of moving the crack to an old dresser that sits next to my desk. Sorry, a dedicated, drawer enhanced, flat-top, amplifier stand made from genuine renewable materials.

 

[i20bot]

Anyone fed Bottlehead Crack out of HA-1 or have heard the two?  About to get one but having second thoughts.  Running HD650 and wanting to hear that combo with the Crack.  But I can just wait and go to the meet we're having here at the end of the month at the Bottlehead headquarters to try it.  I already really like the HD650 out of the HA-1.  Just wondering if the Crack is actually that much better with the HD650 to also have.

 

[Middy]

If there is a crack thread jump in there and ask what they run into the crack, might get a better perspective.

My second update on my improving the OPPO HA1. I call it the fairy dust thread. The diyer's cookbook thread take what's on the market and experiment to see if it works and improve sound. Play with the philosophy of experimenting and try to see if it works. No attacking anything but guys there know there stuff and see what works.

They are trying the AKIKO tuner sticks but they got me thinking of the earth in an Amp.

I stripped off the stronger DEOXIT in the OPPO to apply the milder gold onto the connectors

The earth goes to the chassis in there via a one inch cable crimp washer.
I removed the screw, 1500 grit sanded case, washer thats tarnished and not very clean and deoxited it all. I though bugger it and did all the screws on the motherboard ground plane.

The detail is still there but a touch more refined and Darker but the sound stage has opened up. No idea why but I'll take it and enjoy this new OPPO.


Muhahaha is the only before and after comparison that articulates the change in improvement overall.

They mentioned silver compound grease so I have some silclear coming this week.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend you lovely people

Dave 8^)

 

[erik701]

You can find some impressions on combo HA-1 and LCD-3 here http://headfonics.com/2014/07/the-ha-1-headphone-dacamp-by-oppo/

 

[Allanmarcus]

I have, but I use a T1. Sounds exact the same to me as using my DACcord as the DAC. The DAC is the component least likely to affect the sound. My guess is that a very small number of people (maybe 1 in 10 on head-if) could tell the difference between quality DACs in a blind test.