[Mediahound]

That's what they're designed to do in fact. Blow a fuse, save the device. It's why most folks use cheap fuses. I'm going to school for (among other things) studio recording, and we use cheap fuses because they're easy to fix when they blow. You probably don't have to deal with as much of that in a home setting. If you like expensive fuses, go crazy. I know some folks argue that the less expensive ones aren't as conductive along the fuse, but at that point it's kind of like saying we should use high quality OCC Litz over the conductive trace of PC boards. Would it make a difference? I dunno. More power to you if that's your thing. I was just trying to answer Lukeap69's question.

 
 

That was his point. If your expensive fuse blows, you're out a lot more money than if you just have to replace the stock one with a regular fuse. As an electrician, I don't understand audiophile fuses, but I haven't tried them myself. Stock fuses are generally less than $5 from an electrical supplier.

 
Yeah, nothing in the power line including power cables make a difference on sound quality. Here's why (they are not in the signal chain):
 
http://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/power-cables

 

[bearFNF]

[COLOR=222222]Question:  Are the Ragnarok and Yggdrasil stackable?[/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]Also, feedback: it would be cool if Schiit did a combo deal on both units purchased together.[/COLOR]

dang phone...

Yes, they are stackable, Rag goes on top due to heat.

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

Originally Posted by Mediahound
Quote:

Yeah, nothing in the power line including power cables make a difference on sound quality. Here's why (they are not in the signal chain):

 
You don't think so?  You'd better get out your engineering textbooks and read them again.

 

[ThePianoMan]

^ It's not the precise way I would have said it. More like most standard, decent power components will serve you well. Upgraded power cables are limited by the fact that the rest of your house is likely wired with crap copper.
 
Power cleaners/regenerators/etc. can make a difference if your house has crummy or noisy power issues for whatever reason. Most homes built in the last few decades are fine though, as long as the builders didn't totally cheap out on electrical work.

 

[Jamiee]

  ^ It's not the precise way I would have said it. More like most standard, decent power components will serve you well. Upgraded power cables are limited by the fact that the rest of your house is likely wired with crap copper.
 
Power cleaners/regenerators/etc. can make a difference if your house has crummy or noisy power issues for whatever reason. Most homes built in the last few decades are fine though, as long as the builders didn't totally cheap out on electrical work.

Limited perhaps, but they can still make some decent audible improvements over the provided stock cables.
I live in a large city and have to deal with the limitations of city power.  Better quality PC's and my P5 Power Plant have been a godsend to say the least!

 

[johnjen]

I did some extensive research into fuses and the results are most intriguing.
 
Suffice to say, when you drill down into how fuses react and in what ways, along with different ratings and such and then take into account the specifics of how current actually passes thru the fuse, there is an eye opening component to their function and behavior.
 
It certainly provides a new appreciation for how a fuse behaves in the circuits we use them in.
 
And a fuse change alone may or may not yield huge results depending upon up and down stream electrical conditions and capabilities.  It certainly doesn't exist nor function in a isolated environment.  Which makes it a single 'key' in a more complex 'lock'.
 
But until you experiment and experience this for yourself you won't/can't know if this will help, and by how much, or not.
 
I was taken aback when I performed this experiment on my system, and really wasn't prepared for the net change.
 
JJ

 

[Jamiee]

Arguably the best fuse is no fuse at all.
Insurance companies don't like that approach too much though...
 
All of my gear has upgraded fuses because I like the audible results they bring to my setup (not because they are expensive, shinny and full of all sorts of audiophile wonderment).

 

[johnjen]

  Arguably the best fuse is no fuse at all.
Insurance companies don't like that approach too much though...
 
All of my gear has upgraded fuses because I like the audible results they bring to my setup (not because they are expensive, shinny and full of all sorts of audiophile wonderment).

In the final analysis they either make a change that is better, or not.
 
But the only way to know, as in determine for yourself vs. speculate or apply a 'rational' explanation before hand, is to experiment.
 
And most of these fuses are returnable within a time window if the changes are not worth it.
I don't know of anyone who has actually returned tweak-0 fuses, but then I figure there probably are some who have.
 
JJ

 

[JamesBr]

   

You don't think so?  You'd better get out your engineering textbooks and read them again.

 
Hehe, point!

 

[Mediahound]

   
You don't think so?  You'd better get out your engineering textbooks and read them again.

 
 

   
Hehe, point!

This is not  the thread to really discuss this but suffice to say, read the link I provided, it explains it pretty well. Oh, and I am an engineer myself. 

 

[Jamiee]

BTW, anybody running their Yggy with a DDC?
If so, any particular reason.... Aka. does it sound better than using the Yggy's USB input directly?
 
I'm running a Stello U3 with my Eximus DP1 DAC (via AES/EBU) at the moment and enjoy the combo; just curious if people think the Yggy would benefit from a DDC.

 

[eddypoon]

  I can't understand: some guys who ordered Ygg 1 month ago, will have to wait for 1+ month more, and others who bought it last week, are receiving it now?

I advise not trusting everything you read on this thread.  

 

[Maxx134]

 

 


According to this guy, "Naked is good!!!!!!"
http://www.tweakaudio.com/EVS-2/Schiit_mod.html

Shocking! :eek:  

#3 can kill someone.

 3.  Remove all the chassis.  There are two chassis and you need to remove them all for best sound.  Naked is good!!!!!!  Just take the aluminum cover off then remove the entire steel under cover.  The circuit boards will still be mounted on a piece of alluminum...this is all you need.  Way, way better sound when run naked.

I smell alot of BS from #3. This kills off any hopes of the chassis blocking off EM/RF Interferences from your mobile phone/dect phones/bluetooth/wireless lan. Is he serious?

I too am convinced that the heavy chasis is not only protecting from outside interference, but also keeping your yggy more thermally stable or constant, resisting sudden temp changes,
Thus a more temp stable yggy.

As for tweaking the Yggy:

I plan to change the fuse and add some EMI absorption material to the inner chassis at some point as I generally find there's some sonic improvement to be had doing these. 
The fuse to me is usually the biggest bang for the buck improvement and pretty much a day one mod for me. EMI/RF absorption material(s) affects different gear in different ways and is something that requires some time to play around with. Seems you can definitely add to much with some gear and never enough with others.

Sorry to interrupt your wet dream, but would you really pour ketchup on Kobe beef steak?

Jason has already seen a Yggy damaged from the misinformation that Ric at EVS has posted about balanced output to SE connection .

Mod at your own risk. And in doing so, the Yggy SQ will go south. Enjoy the ketchup.

I also can agree this is an excercise in futility..
Example:
I heard a yggy with two amps simultaneously connected..
One amp thru the XLR, and second amp thru the RCA line level outs...

Guess which amp had more depth, clarity & soundatage?

It was the line level (so called summed) outputs..(!)

ALSO:
Tried it another time at a friends house, with reverse results.


What this proves, it that your choice of amp is more important than the choice of output.

I did some extensive research into fuses and the results are most intriguing.

Suffice to say, when you drill down into how fuses react and in what ways, along with different ratings and such and then take into account the specifics of how current actually passes thru the fuse, there is an eye opening component to their function and behavior.

It certainly provides a new appreciation for how a fuse behaves in the circuits we use them in.

And a fuse change alone may or may not yield huge results depending upon up and down stream electrical conditions and capabilities.  It certainly doesn't exist nor function in a isolated environment.  Which makes it a single 'key' in a more complex 'lock'.

But until you experiment and experience this for yourself you won't/can't know if this will help, and by how much, or not.

I was taken aback when I performed this experiment on my system, and really wasn't prepared for the net change.

JJ

I too researched a bit into fuses...
One thing for SURE, is that replacing with a piece of foil is not the best solution, even if we dont look at the obvious loss of function(protection).

It can end up acting like an antenna!!

When in doubt,
Never compromise :


Lol , but seriously, the best fuses I have read about almost all share one same thing...
They are the ceramic types.

So even picking up some cheapo ceramics will have at least 50% of whatever characteristics & benifits that the top name brands do.

Also, another point:
In my job, it is a general observation that the ceramic caps are giving longevity to the eletronic ballasts in our lighting systems..
But I think the job switched to them for their vibration durability.

 

[johnjen]

snip
When in doubt,
Never compromise :


Lol , but seriously, the best fuses I have read about almost all share one same thing...
They are the ceramic types.

So even picking up some cheapo ceramics will have at least 50% of whatever characteristics & benifits that the top name brands do.

Also, another point:
In my job, it is a general observation that the ceramic caps are giving longevity to the eletronic ballasts in our lighting systems..
But I think the job switched to them for their vibration durability.

Did you notice how the current that can pass thru the fuse (without it blowing) goes up and by quite a bit as the duration of the current drops?
 
Specifically, (I^2t - ampere squared seconds) measures the maximum amount of current that the fuse will pass in 8ms before dying.
 
To wit…
“A pulse of current is applied to the fuse, and a time measurement is taken for melting to occur. If melting does not occur within a short duration of about 8 milliseconds (0.008 seconds) or less, the level of pulse current is increased. This test procedure is repeated until melting of the fuse element is confined to within about 8 milliseconds. The purpose of this procedure is to assure that the heat created has insufficient time to thermally conduct away from the fuse element. That is, all of the heat energy (I^2t) is used, to cause melting. Once the measurements of current (I) and time (t) are determined, it is a simple matter to calculate melting I^2t. When the melting phase reaches completion, an electrical arc occurs immediately prior to the “opening” of the fuse element.
 
Clearing I^2t = Melting I^2t + arcing I^2t
 
The nominal I2t values given in this publication pertain to the melting phase portion of the “clearing” or “opening”.  Alternatively the time can be measured at 10 times of the rated current and the I2t value is calculated like above.”
 
From © 2014 Littelfuse • Fuseology Selection Guide  www.littelfuse.com
 
and the million $$$ question is why did they choose 8mS?  

 
JJ

 

[Maxx134]

8ms is time before heat no longer contained?