[ToddRaymond]

Thanks for relaying that, @PLGA!

I leave my on (almost) all the time. I should probably scale that back a little bit.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Thanks for relaying that, @PLGA!

I leave my on (almost) all the time. I should probably scale that back a little bit.

The way I read it, you should be listening more

 

[Psilonaught]

30 min warm up for my R7HE is enough, absolutely no need to leave it on.

 

[Currawong]

Hah, you didn't know what I meant. I mean I guess the Chord will beat most chipdacs with the right input. I get the impression Chord USB is not very good.

The portable DACs, Hugo 2 and Mojo 2, don't have isolated USB to ensure compatibility with portable devices, so they are best used with optical input. The desktop devices have galvanically isolated USB, which has been measured as being better than the S/PDIF inputs. The issues with the power supply of the TT2, while we're here, is that it dumps noise back into the power lines, which isn't good if it's connected to the power that other components are. I connect them to filtered power boards for this reason.

You can't see from the photo how the heat is dissipated.
A single device housing is obviously not enough.

In 14 years of dealing with Audio-gd, I've never known there to be an issue with heat and any of their products, all of which (except the speaker amps) use the chassis to dissipate heat.

30 min warm up for my R7HE is enough, absolutely no need to leave it on.

I find them to be noticeably better after 4 hours, so I just leave whatever of them I listen with regularly on all the time, except in summer.

 

[OCC7N]

@Currawong so the TT2 is actually making noise on the powerline for other devices on the same powerline/strip?

Who discovered this? - it is the first time reading this for me.

I have not detected any noise or whatsoever but it still annoys me if they know it and do not fix it.

 

[Revolution1]

In 14 years of dealing with Audio-gd, I've never known there to be an issue with heat and any of their products, all of which (except the speaker amps) use the chassis to dissipate heat.

They had air vents.

 

[nikko510]

I find them to be noticeably better after 4 hours, so I just leave whatever of them I listen with regularly on all the time, except in summer.

This is exactly how it is to get the maximum out of the Audio Gd equipment, we need about 4 hours of warm-up time, there is no other way.

 

[FredA]

There are still air vents on the bottom. Maybe something we don't see on the top. I will have to ask Kingwa.

 

[dougms3]

There are still air vents on the bottom. Maybe something we don't see on the top. I will have to ask Kingwa.

I think the whole chassis acts as a passive heatsink, aluminum works well for that purpose.

 

[Currawong]

@Currawong so the TT2 is actually making noise on the powerline for other devices on the same powerline/strip?

Who discovered this? - it is the first time reading this for me.

I have not detected any noise or whatsoever but it still annoys me if they know it and do not fix it.

The TT2's external power supply was. The discussion may be in the Watts' Up thread, if not one of the dedicated product threads. It came from discussion about external PSUs improving the TT2 and Hugo 2, which Rob tested, and found to neither be true, or, due to the way he had designed the power supplies, impossible. It was specifically with people who were using amplifiers with their Chord gear, and those may be susceptible to noise. Given my own experiments with the effects of PSU noise in my system (regenerators, filters, power cables, and dedicated sockets) it makes sense.

 

[OCC7N]

Ok I thought so. The included embarassing, cringeworthy, ugly generic looking psu must be the culprit.

____

This is kinda of topic, but I would like to find a PC/HTPC(ATX) case matching my audio-gd black alu finish. I appreciate any input on this search

 

[OCC7N]

Im just gonna leave this here:

 

[Audiophiliac]

I have a poor person's question. Does anyone think that even a cheap usb port add-on card at the bottom will be an improvement over the motherboard ports in the noisy spot? The cost of the audio only ones makes me think this hobby sucks. But I know I won't really be done unless I at least get one.
I'm also wondering if, since people are all agreeing that the dsp and reclocking before sending the dac a good i2s works better than the one built into the dac, will kingwa just remove that part from the dac, and highly recommend spending the money saved on putting a di-20he first instead? I'm disappointed he took out the half-priced di-20 option, but I don't know how much it would improve my usb's out to an original r8. But come on, di20he is half the price of R8, and it's what's already in there, except for unregenerated power.
I may end up being a sell my r8 for a newer version, since it was already so good, guy. Improved usb in I only need if I don't get di-20he, and an external clock port are already there for me. It's stuff he did with the di-20 on the newer mk dacs, yet people are still saying di-20he to i2s works better. I guess I could just get one of those instead of a newer mk dac. But wouldn't the reclocking with the clocks in my dac spoil an external clock on the di-20he? People did say putting the external clock on their dacs worked out better. I guess a better clock on the di20 first also would still always be better to have. But then why have the dsp-1 and clocks in the dac anyhow, if getting a good i2s signal first works better? If the answer is that having a dsp-1 before the dsp-1 in the dac is even better, has anyone tried a di-20 before their di-20?

 

[OCC7N]

I have a poor person's question. Does anyone think that even a cheap usb port add-on card at the bottom will be an improvement over the motherboard ports in the noisy spot? The cost of the audio only ones makes me think this hobby sucks. But I know I won't really be done unless I at least get one.
I'm also wondering if, since people are all agreeing that the dsp and reclocking before sending the dac a good i2s works better than the one built into the dac, will kingwa just remove that part from the dac, and highly recommend spending the money saved on putting a di-20he first instead? I'm disappointed he took out the half-priced di-20 option, but I don't know how much it would improve my usb's out to an original r8. But come on, di20he is half the price of R8, and it's what's already in there, except for unregenerated power.
I may end up being a sell my r8 for a newer version, since it was already so good, guy. Improved usb in I only need if I don't get di-20he, and an external clock port are already there for me. It's stuff he did with the di-20 on the newer mk dacs, yet people are still saying di-20he to i2s works better. I guess I could just get one of those instead of a newer mk dac. But wouldn't the reclocking with the clocks in my dac spoil an external clock on the di-20he? People did say putting the external clock on their dacs worked out better. I guess a better clock on the di20 first also would still always be better to have. But then why have the dsp-1 and clocks in the dac anyhow, if getting a good i2s signal first works better? If the answer is that having a dsp-1 before the dsp-1 in the dac is even better, has anyone tried a di-20 before their di-20?

Buy a good usb cable instead of pcie card if you have a DDC, if you read the first section of DI20/HE, Kingwa says they are superisolated.

What ATX psu do you have?
-a little more info on your system.

This is actually a very crucial part to upgrade, when it comes to ripple and transients.

Look for Corsair RM550x I thin it was this model that performed very well for the price.

Cable or ATX if you ask me

 

[PLGA]

Hello guys
I change the Tv and I get a noise like static and I cannot hear the sound of movies with optical connection on my HE-7.

It also happened with previous Tv. Does anyone have any idea of what is the cause?