Yes this is a the main task for everyone. To get rid of the 5k ringing. There are many ways to eliminate it. The easyest and non destructive way to screw off the grill and put a 5-6 cm diameter paper towel spot behind to it to the center. If the paper towel is too big then you loose the space of the music. If its too small then the harshness remains.
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Monoprice Monolith M1060 and M560 Planar Headphones
- Thread starter wordfool
- Start date
Jim85IROC
New Head-Fier
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I'll definitely be trying the paper towel mod among others. Based on the frequency response charts and CSDs that I've seen, none of the mods seem to impact the ringing, but that doesn't mean that they won't help the sound.
fpantalone
100+ Head-Fier
The mods that worked for me were ... the 'fuzzor' mod on the 'ear side' of the driver. Some Creatolgy strips inside the pads, on the forward part only. The honeycomb grills. This seemed to tame everything down enough for 'my' ears and taste.
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jotaku
100+ Head-Fier
The mods that worked for me were ... the 'fuzzor' mod on the 'ear side' of the driver. Some Creatolgy strips inside the pads, on the forward part only. The honeycomb grills. This seemed to tame everything down enough for 'my' ears and taste.
Fuzzor mod worked amazing for me was well. Especially after taking out the foam between the the driver and the grill. That seemed to make the 5k ringing even worse, but the fuzzor mod tamed it all down.
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jcadduono
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I figured the LCD-X would be a good upgrade from my M1060 and bought it.
I'd say it's more of a side-grade, for anyone that was looking to do the same.
My M1060 is only modded with a balanced litz OCC cable.
If you are a gamer, the M1060 is going to feel more fun (it is more airy and like you're surrounded by sound) which makes it easier to pinpoint the location that sound is coming from.
The LCD-X sounds like everything is playing inside your head,and directional cues are a little confusing like everything is spread out from side to front center to side and nothing from behind.
When using virtual surround algorithms such as Dolby Home Theatre v4 (no reverb) via HeSuVi, I couldn't tell that something was behind me with the LCD-X. Every rear sound effect sounded like it was just in the middle of my head and slightly above me. Sound coming from rear was almost indistinguishable from side channels.
With the M1060, the rear speakers definitely sounded behind me and a little closer together and were easy to distinguish from sides. This sounded more like a real 7.1 surround sound setup.
For music I pretty much always prefer the LCD-X because the highs are more tamed and the bass is tighter with more punch.
I'm happy to have both, it's just that the LCD-X is unsuitable for gaming and movies and I'll probably go for my M1060 there.
Update: The LCD-X improved tons for gaming/movies (and MUSIC?!??!) by using 7.1 input from HiFi audio cable -> Equalizer APO -> HeSuVi in Crossfeed mode -> Acon Digital Reverb SOLO (33% wet 25% room size) -> Topping D50 (via Listen)
I'd say it's more of a side-grade, for anyone that was looking to do the same.
My M1060 is only modded with a balanced litz OCC cable.
If you are a gamer, the M1060 is going to feel more fun (it is more airy and like you're surrounded by sound) which makes it easier to pinpoint the location that sound is coming from.
The LCD-X sounds like everything is playing inside your head,and directional cues are a little confusing like everything is spread out from side to front center to side and nothing from behind.
When using virtual surround algorithms such as Dolby Home Theatre v4 (no reverb) via HeSuVi, I couldn't tell that something was behind me with the LCD-X. Every rear sound effect sounded like it was just in the middle of my head and slightly above me. Sound coming from rear was almost indistinguishable from side channels.
With the M1060, the rear speakers definitely sounded behind me and a little closer together and were easy to distinguish from sides. This sounded more like a real 7.1 surround sound setup.
For music I pretty much always prefer the LCD-X because the highs are more tamed and the bass is tighter with more punch.
I'm happy to have both, it's just that the LCD-X is unsuitable for gaming and movies and I'll probably go for my M1060 there.
Update: The LCD-X improved tons for gaming/movies (and MUSIC?!??!) by using 7.1 input from HiFi audio cable -> Equalizer APO -> HeSuVi in Crossfeed mode -> Acon Digital Reverb SOLO (33% wet 25% room size) -> Topping D50 (via Listen)
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jotaku
100+ Head-Fier
I figured the LCD-X would be a good upgrade from my M1060 and bought it.
I'd say it's more of a side-grade, for anyone that was looking to do the same.
My M1060 is only modded with a balanced litz OCC cable.
If you are a gamer, the M1060 is going to feel more fun (it is more airy and like you're surrounded by sound) which makes it easier to pinpoint the location that sound is coming from.
The LCD-X sounds like everything is playing inside your head,and directional cues are a little confusing like everything is spread out from side to front center to side and nothing from behind.
When using virtual surround algorithms such as Dolby Home Theatre v4 (no reverb) via HeSuVi, I couldn't tell that something was behind me with the LCD-X. Every rear sound effect sounded like it was just in the middle of my head and slightly above me. Sound coming from rear was almost indistinguishable from side channels.
With the M1060, the rear speakers definitely sounded behind me and a little closer together and were easy to distinguish from sides. This sounded more like a real 7.1 surround sound setup.
For music I pretty much always prefer the LCD-X because the highs are more tamed and the bass is tighter with more punch.
I'm happy to have both, it's just that the LCD-X is unsuitable for gaming and movies and I'll probably go for my M1060 there.
Update: The LCD-X improved tons for gaming/movies (and MUSIC?!??!) by using 7.1 input from HiFi audio cable -> Equalizer APO -> HeSuVi in Crossfeed mode -> Acon Digital Reverb SOLO (33% wet 25% room size) -> Topping D50 (via Listen)
I basically thought the same thing. Although I didn't do a lot of gaming in the LCD-X, so I can't confirm what you were experiencing. But the point that the LCD-X was more of a side-grade I feel is true, especially when you consider the cost difference. I ended up selling the LCD-X due to not being able to justify the cost to performance vs the M1060.
cerb998
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I took apart the M560 to have a look inside and also for anyone else that was curious. Apologies in advance for the potato quality.
I think the driver looks quite similar to the T50RP, from the outside at least.
wwmhf
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Fuzzor mod worked amazing for me was well. Especially after taking out the foam between the the driver and the grill. That seemed to make the 5k ringing even worse, but the fuzzor mod tamed it all down.
That fuzzor mod seems to be promising, plan to try it during the winter break.
Jim85IROC
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Is there a particular brand or type of fuzz stuff that is preferred? How are you guys reattaching the ear cups?
wwmhf
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By pulling carefully. It was glued on if I remember what I saw correctly.
jcadduono
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I didn't have enough stock adhesive left to put my ear pads back on so I reattached it with a very thin application of LePage Super Glue Gel Control (non Ultra) about 2cm from the edge all around and it worked great. Gotta be careful with the positioning when you place it cause once it touches the glue its stuck for like ever.
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fpantalone
100+ Head-Fier
'Creatology' from Michael's Crafts. I used double sided tape to reattach pads (if the factory glue is not working any longer)
jj69
500+ Head-Fier
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Has anyone found an "ideal" double stick tape for reattaching pads? Preferably something that holds them securely, but thar won't ruin the pads if you have to remove them again.
OldDude04
Headphoneus Supremus
Tony51
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GorgeousThis is my modded M1060 getting a headband swap. I used a leather LCD-2 headband, some Audeze extended yoke pins, small L brackets and washers from the hardware store.
And the finished product. Custom beveled honeycomb grills, Audeze vegan pads, Audeze headband, and 7ft Periapt Cable.
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