[PockyG]

I got a set of the fazor inserts from @SomeTechNoob. I know there was some discussion about that flat surface on the outside of each louver. Has anyone taken the time to round these off for better air flow? If so, was there any discernible difference from doing this? I am just trying to figure out whether it is worth the time that it would take to do it. It did seem from the Audeze diagrams, that this was their intent. Likely just the OCD engineer in me making me wonder.

I could be wrong but the set that he/she printed out was an early version of the fazors that had the tip of the fazors printed on the bed which may have caused it to gain more surface area than intended. The later revision I printed out had the tips face up which gave them a rounder finish I think. I made a post with a picture of them earlier:

How do yours compare to these?

 

[mandrake50]

I could be wrong but the set that he/she printed out was an early version of the fazors that had the tip of the fazors printed on the bed which may have caused it to gain more surface area than intended. The later revision I printed out had the tips face up which gave them a rounder finish I think. I made a post with a picture of them earlier:

How do yours compare to these?

The ones I got are flatter on the outside edge. I will see if I can get a picture and post it. It wouldn't be too difficult to round them out. Uniformity would be the biggest issue.

 

[mandrake50]

here is a quick phone pic. Sorry it is so big...

 

[SomeTechNoob]

Might be worth it to give them a try first since I don't think anyone's come back with feedback for the rev1 "flattened fazors"

 

[mandrake50]

Oh I intend to. Like I mentioned... just my OCD kicking in. I would not have thought twice about it if someone had not posted the Audeze diagram.
Besides, I have a couple of pair to mess with. Thanks for that !!

 

[nick n]

PockyG you mentioned about Adze having a patent, notice it is carefully worded as patent-pending and may be so forever and unless I am missing something. They are not the inventors of waveguides.
That particular language is generally good for marketing purposes.

On the Monoprice topic, the new 560 replacement uses velcro for attaching the pads to a flat baffle front surface?...
Pad seal with orthos can be very important for the low end to avoid bass level cancellation, and last time I checked velcro to velcro seals certainly were not that airtight.
It's going to leak to some degree. So you are breaking the seal but instead of breaking it on the earside you are breaking it on the baffle side.
Strange design approach when they could have done the better bonding magnet thing like the 560, or at least the old standby =sticky sided pads that are still removable for replacement.

 

[Saoshyant]

Well, after a year of thinking about it, I jumped on a used deal for the M560, as last month I had bought an Ori which removed any need on my end to try the M1060. I must admit I do love how easily driven they are, which means some daps are up to the task, although my Shanling M1 has to be at full volume to get a volume I enjoy. But, it sounds good, so it's time to try it on Opus #1.

 

[caenlenfromOCN]

Well, after a year of thinking about it, I jumped on a used deal for the M560, as last month I had bought an Ori which removed any need on my end to try the M1060. I must admit I do love how easily driven they are, which means some daps are up to the task, although my Shanling M1 has to be at full volume to get a volume I enjoy. But, it sounds good, so it's time to try it on Opus #1.

Not sure why you would be buying any of this if you own an Ori, better off buying more earpads for the Ori and wearing the Ori non-stop... lol

 

[Saoshyant]

I like the sound of it closed as well as open for one, easily driven so a bit more portable. It's a little better suited to some of the bassier music I listen to as well. Plus I already have a back-up pair of ori pads. And of course I wouldn't know if the sound suited me until I tried it. Plus I'm just not a 1 can type of person.

 

[muckyfingers]

I've ordered some silicone mold from Amazon yesterday. Once the molds get made, I'll get a rough initial count of those interested and order the resin and split the costs accordingly. I'm guessing it'll be a few bucks at most for material costs for 2 sets of front and rear fazors.

The grill is a little too thin to be comfortable making molds. They're quick and easy prints so hopefully you guys can manage those somehow. It seems @VRacer-111's grills are more popular anyways.

I've also discovered that printing the 4mm height fazors snap in much easier than the original 5mm. If you do print the fazors, go with the 4mm version on thingiverse.

I'll update you guys once the molds get made.

I'm in for a set as well. Thanks.

 

[mandrake50]

I could be wrong but the set that he/she printed out was an early version of the fazors that had the tip of the fazors printed on the bed which may have caused it to gain more surface area than intended. The later revision I printed out had the tips face up which gave them a rounder finish I think. I made a post with a picture of them earlier:

How do yours compare to these?

I have a question @PockyG. How did you mount those. Looking at what I got, there seems to be nothing other than gluing or double sided tape that will work..
Also, is that Velcro around the outside of the fazor grill on what I think you called "the pad adapter" ?

 

[PockyG]

I have a question @PockyG. How did you mount those. Looking at what I got, there seems to be nothing other than gluing or double sided tape that will work..
Also, is that Velcro around the outside of the fazor grill on what I think you called "the pad adapter" ?

I used double sided tape to mount them. Yes, I did use velcro tape initially to put the pads on but decided to also put double sided tape on top instead to attach the pads.

 

[PockyG]

Just an update with the fazors. Molds came out alright. I ran a test resin cast but it was more viscous than expected so the edges didn't catch all the way through. The bottom is going to need a bit of sanding as well. The resins are paintable but I'll have to leave that up to you guys. Resin material is cheaper than expected so I can lower the costs more than expected. I'll let you guys know when I get more casts done to have them shipped out. Still need to create the mold for the rear fazors.

 

[mandrake50]

Thanks for all of the work you are putting in for this!

What do you mean by "the edges didn't catch all of the way through" ? Does this mean the outside edges/tips of the vanes will require forming and smoothing?

I have been looking at those printed fazors that I got and trying to figure out a way to sand or form the "tips" to get rid of the flat parts. There is just not much room.

I have lots of miniature files, sandpaper and a few Dremel sets with most all of the available bits.
Any suggestions on that?

 

[steph280]

Does anybody run these M1060 with Little Dot Mk2 amp? No matter what gain I set it to I can't seem to get much power out of it. The volume needs to be cranked all the way up to get decent listening volume. Tried on different sources such as Denon amp, Apple Airport Express, PC audio out, etc.