[sam_cat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKToecutter /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hmmm So maybe I'll do a P2P balanced SSHA then.

Ditto, would make a great present for my bro, along with the decent headphones I am planning on getting him for his birthday.

 

[getllamasfast]

Hey everyone, just finished building my 12AU7 SSMH.
It's not entirely finished as I still need to finish the case, but at least it works.

I had a rough time getting it to work, (you can see my frustrations documented earlier in this thread) but with the help of the_equalizer, I managed to find my problem and now all is good! Right now, I'm using this with my K702's and they sound great!
I'll post more details later since I'm busy building second 12AU7 SSMH for my bro at the moment.

EDIT: forgot to add pictures of it turned on

Here are some pictures:

 

[the_equalizer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by getllamasfast /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey everyone, just finished building my 12AU7 SSMH. It's not entirely finished as I still need to finish the case, but at least it works. I had a rough time getting it to work, (you can see my frustrations documented earlier in this thread) but with the help of the_equalizer, I managed to find my problem and now all is good! Right now, I'm using this with my K702's and they sound great! I'll post more details later since I'm busy building second 12AU7 SSMH for my bro at the moment. EDIT: forgot to add pictures of it turned on Here are some pictures: <snip>

Great news! Another 12AU7 build

I'm really glad that it worked! I also used JJ tubes to build mine.

I particularly like the turned-on pic, the illuminated volume control you used for your build looks really great! I'm sure your brother will like his a lot.

cheers!

 

[tomb]

Just an FYI to ask for a little patience of those who've ordered kits so far. I'm running about a day behind and hope to get the first kits shipped out tomorrow. Doing those tube sockets took a little longer than I'd hoped. Gluing and testing 70 of them was a little daunting. I think I lost some brain cells that will never come back from all of the epoxy fumes.

 

[sam_cat]

Lol!
Thanks for the update Tom, and the work is appreciated!

Have sent you an email about tubes..

Thanks,
Sam

 

[kevenigma]

hey tom, i didnt specify a led color when i was ordering, i ordered from my phone at a bar. i don't know if its too late or not but is there any way i can get sea green leds? my order is #1013.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Juaquin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevenigma /img/forum/go_quote.gif i ordered from my phone at a bar.

Is there any better place to make an order?

 

[simwells]

Starting to wire mine up now with the tube sockets am I right in thinking that they're numbered in order clockwork with the first one being the first from the gap?

Also any tips for soldering the earth to the enclosure, other than keying it beforehand?

 

[sourced]

Quote:

Originally Posted by simwells /img/forum/go_quote.gif Starting to wire mine up now with the tube sockets am I right in thinking that they're numbered in order clockwork with the first one being the first from the gap? Also any tips for soldering the earth to the enclosure, other than keying it beforehand?

Yes, as you look from the bottom. When I flip mine over, I see (clockwise): gap, 48V, 48V, output cap, ground, pot, pot. EDIT: and lastly the 2k resistor to ground, of course.

 

[Dunceiam]

Hey everyone, halfway done with my P2P amp, when I noticed a problem.

C1, C2, and C7 all have their correct capacitor in, however, I noticed I don't have the right capacitor (as marked) for C3a, C5a, C8, C7.

Capacitors I have: (2) Muse 470uF 35V, (2) 470uF 63V, (3) 0.22uF 35V.

Can I still use these, or is it back to Mouser I go?

.

Edit-

On a different note, I forgot to cut the holes for the mosfet to attach directly to the heatsink, so instead I've used Arctic Silver 5 and a little bit of glue to attach the mosfet to the steel chassis wall, and then mounted the heatsink, also with AC5, directly above where the mosfet is, just on the other side of the wall. Would this still work? (I used the same 'sink as in the original BOM)

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunceiam /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey everyone, halfway done with my P2P amp, when I noticed a problem. C1, C2, and C7 all have their correct capacitor in, however, I noticed I don't have the right capacitor (as marked) for C3a, C5a, C8, C7. Capacitors I have: (2) Muse 470uF 35V, (2) 470uF 63V, (3) 0.22uF 35V. Can I still use these, or is it back to Mouser I go? . Edit- On a different note, I forgot to cut the holes for the mosfet to attach directly to the heatsink, so instead I've used Arctic Silver 5 and a little bit of glue to attach the mosfet to the steel chassis wall, and then mounted the heatsink, also with AC5, directly above where the mosfet is, just on the other side of the wall. Would this still work? (I used the same 'sink as in the original BOM)

Unfortunately, the Muse 470uf 35V has a voltage rating that will only work at C7 and C8. The 470uf 63V caps can be used at C1, C3, C5 or C6. The 0.22uf can't be used at all if it's a truly a 35V rating, but I suspect you're wrong about that - 35V is pretty low for a film cap, which is what I assume a 0.22uf is. If so, those are used at C2, C4, and C3a, C5a.

As for the MOSFET - the Artic Silver is not the key - the fact that you have no insulator is the problem. I'm afraid you'll have a direct short when you power it up unless you have an insulator in there between the MOSFET and the chassis wall.

 

[simwells]

Last question I should probably already know the answer to!

The mosfet pins are from left to right when the pins are pointing down right?

 

[sourced]

Quote:

Originally Posted by simwells /img/forum/go_quote.gif Last question I should probably already know the answer to! The mosfet pins are from left to right when the pins are pointing down right?

Yes, looking straight at the MOSFET, pins pointing down, black side toward you, heatsink behind the mosfet, 1 2 3 left to right. So the rightmost pins connect to the output caps.

 

[Dunceiam]

Ah, you're right. I mistook '358' on the 0.22uF caps for 35V.

However, I've taken a second look and I think I actually have everything I need. The capacitors I still need are C7, C8, C3, C3a, C5, C5a, C4.

Would this work?

C7: Muse 470uF 35V
C8: Muse 470uF 35V
C3: Nichicon 470uF 63V
C3a: 0.22uF 250V
C5: Nichicon 470uF 63V
C5a: 0.22uF 250V
C4: 0.22uF 250V

And regarding the insulating material, what would you suggest? I was a little rash and put Gorilla glue on the back of the mosfet in the plastic area, and AC5 in the metal area's, then stuck it to the chassis. Doubtful I could get the mosfets off unharmed, but hey, they were cheap anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Unfortunately, the Muse 470uf 35V has a voltage rating that will only work at C7 and C8. The 470uf 63V caps can be used at C1, C3, C5 or C6. The 0.22uf can't be used at all if it's a truly a 35V rating, but I suspect you're wrong about that - 35V is pretty low for a film cap, which is what I assume a 0.22uf is. If so, those are used at C2, C4, and C3a, C5a. As for the MOSFET - the Artic Silver is not the key - the fact that you have no insulator is the problem. I'm afraid you'll have a direct short when you power it up unless you have an insulator in there between the MOSFET and the chassis wall.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunceiam /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ah, you're right. I mistook '358' on the 0.22uF caps for 35V. However, I've taken a second look and I think I actually have everything I need. The capacitors I still need are C7, C8, C3, C3a, C5, C5a, C4. Would this work? C7: Muse 470uF 35V C8: Muse 470uF 35V C3: Nichicon 470uF 63V C3a: 0.22uF 250V C5: Nichicon 470uF 63V C5a: 0.22uF 250V C4: 0.22uF 250V And regarding the insulating material, what would you suggest? I was a little rash and put Gorilla glue on the back of the mosfet in the plastic area, and AC5 in the metal area's, then stuck it to the chassis. Doubtful I could get the mosfets off unharmed, but hey, they were cheap anyway.

If the Gorilla glue is not conductive, then maybe you'll be OK. Use your DMM to measure the resistance between the metal tab of the MOSFET and the case - see if you get near infinite resistance or near zero (very bad).

The caps look OK as you have them arranged in that list.